FJ 62 SOA begins!

[Cruiserdrew]

What made you decide to run the CV rear? I thought you were gonna hold off on that?

Chicago

Well I was, untill I got the drive shaft in place and test fit everything. I just didn't look right with parallel angles and a steeply angled driveshaft. It might have worked fine. However, I had a spare DC driveshaft, and the angles looked a lot better, so I just did that. I'm going to get a spare "normal" shaft made for trail emergencies.


I also have the memory of one of my friends breaking a Spicer CV shaft at Rubicon and the consternation and welding it took to effect a good and drivable repair, so I decided to go with Toyota and hope for the best. My photos are weirdly angled, but the angles themselves look really good. I'm going to run it a season and see.

The best thing about wagon builds is the long rear driveshafts. That can make up for a lot of problems that exist on a SWB truck like my FJ40.

 

[rusty_tlc]

MAD skillz!
Would I have to arm wrestle your wife for the spot?!
If thats the case, I dont want any part of that action. She could take me in a heart beat!

Chicago

She isn't interested in the more technical trails.


Yet

 

[chicago]

Well I was, untill I got the drive shaft in place and test fit everything. I just didn't look right with parallel angles and a steeply angled driveshaft. It might have worked fine. However, I had a spare DC driveshaft, and the angles looked a lot better, so I just did that. I'm going to get a spare "normal" shaft made for trail emergencies.


I also have the memory of one of my friends breaking a Spicer CV shaft at Rubicon and the consternation and welding it took to effect a good and drivable repair, so I decided to go with Toyota and hope for the best. My photos are weirdly angled, but the angles themselves look really good. I'm going to run it a season and see.

The best thing about wagon builds is the long rear driveshafts. That can make up for a lot of problems that exist on a SWB truck like my FJ40.

I never realized how pitched the 40's x fer case sits at.
My x fer sitting in the rig is at 4*...
The angles in your photo look pretty good.
The guy who is building my shaft is gonna run a CV from a toyota and is gonna re build the whole shebang.
I measured it up with out turing the axel housing, and it too looked pretty harsh as far as the angle were concerned. Talking to Dean, the driveline guy Im using, he said that the length of the shaft is close to the line between where I could get away without one, and disaster...I prolly could have gotten away without, but I didnt see any real advantage to sticking with the stock shaft and risking it, so I decided to JUST DO IT!
In the front, Im gonna flex the hell out of it and see what's doing...Im still a bit concerned with it. With the axels hanging free, the u joint binds at the x fer and it makes me un easy...
And, the slip is sitting about an inch away from coming out, so if nothing else, I might have to have it lengthened a bit if I can get the damn this apart!

Chicago

 

[rusty_tlc]

I never realized how pitched the 40's x fer case sits at.
My x fer sitting in the rig is at 4*...
The angles in your photo look pretty good.
The guy who is building my shaft is gonna run a CV from a toyota and is gonna re build the whole shebang.
I measured it up with out turing the axel housing, and it too looked pretty harsh as far as the angle were concerned. Talking to Dean, the driveline guy Im using, he said that the length of the shaft is close to the line between where I could get away without one, and disaster...I prolly could have gotten away without, but I didnt see any real advantage to sticking with the stock shaft and risking it, so I decided to JUST DO IT!
In the front, Im gonna flex the hell out of it and see what's doing...Im still a bit concerned with it. With the axels hanging free, the u joint binds at the x fer and it makes me un easy...
And, the slip is sitting about an inch away from coming out, so if nothing else, I might have to have it lengthened a bit if I can get the damn this apart!

Chicago

You probably already know this but make some witness marks before you take the DS apart so you can get it back together in phase.

 

[Kavik]

Update?

Chicago,
Next time you are snapping pics, can you please get a close up of the diff side perch. It looks like you are using a round u-bolt. What did you do to keep it from climbing up the side of the diff?

 

[chicago]

Update?

Chicago,
Next time you are snapping pics, can you please get a close up of the diff side perch. It looks like you are using a round u-bolt. What did you do to keep it from climbing up the side of the diff?

Right now, the rear diff is getting 4.88's and the rear DS is being built. Im gonna start figuring for the x member and trac bar today...WISH ME LUCK!
Ill get some pics of the Pass side diff for you.
Yes, I did use a round U bolt, and I welded some tabs to the inside of it to keep it in place.
From what I can tell, the real issue is not so much the u bolt climbing UP the diff, but rather it moving OUT away from the diff. Its nestled right off to the outside of it, so it wants to lean away.
Ill get some pics to show you, as what Im saying isnt even making sense to me!;p
The perch is kind of a bitch to cut and get perfect. It took a LOOOONNNG time, and I had to do it twice cuz Im an IDIOT!

Chicago

 

[chicago]

NEW DRIVE SHAFT BITCHES!!!!!
Also got my rear diff back that is now 4.88's and LOCKED AND LOADED with a Lockrite!
UMMM, the lockrite install....PITA!!!
It was a PITA because of the center pin. I didnt realize that its butt ass tight going in with a locker, and lining up the retainer bolt when its that FU*KING tight is NO FUN!
Still not too sure how to mount my x member for the trac bar.
Here's a few pics of the new DS!

Chicago

 

[chicago]

For some reason I couldnt up load all three...

 

[chicago]

Update?

Chicago,
Next time you are snapping pics, can you please get a close up of the diff side perch. It looks like you are using a round u-bolt. What did you do to keep it from climbing up the side of the diff?

Here's a couple for ya Kavik!
The best solution Ive seen for the Pass side diff issue, has been Cruiserdrews set up! He had the top plate drilled on the angle of the housing, and spacers made and welded to the top plate, so the u bolt angles right in place! I believe Luke Porter at 4x4 labs did it for him!

Chicago

 

[rusty_tlc]

I thought you sold the bike?

Looking good, we need to get that stuff dirty ASAP.

 

[CaliCruiser]

What else do you have to do besides the trac bar?

oh ya, look good!

Dylan

 

[philos1]

Looks like you're almost there man!

 

[Kavik]

Here's a couple for ya Kavik!

Thanks. Weird how much the u-bolt leans like that...hmmm

Looks like the tabs you added would have done the trick. I think I'm going to weld a tab at the bottom.

Anyways, great job!

 

[Nev62]

Just a question for you guys who have SOA's (thinking of doing my 62). How do you go for stability on high side angles and what is articulation like?

I have super soft springs and no rear stabliser bar which gives me pretty good flex but as soon as it sees any side angle, it wants to have a little sleep (you know - a little lie down). I have already been in situations where other cars drove a washout but I had to have 4 guys hanging off the side to keep it from going over.

Now thinking of my 62 with an extra 4 1/2" of height would make it a forgone conclusion that any side angle would put it on it's side or worse

I have herd that with a SOA on the crusiers, stabliser bars and stiffer spring are about mandatory unless you like rolling down hills/slopes/. Does this mean you have a choice of articulation or clearance but not both?

 

[chicago]

Thanks. Weird how much the u-bolt leans like that...hmmm

Looks like the tabs you added would have done the trick. I think I'm going to weld a tab at the bottom.

Anyways, great job!

Well, theyre sort of bent that way around the side of the housing.
Im not so crazy about how this had to be done, but many a folk are running em this way, and havent had problems....
So hopefully it will all be good!
The tabs I welded are about a 1/4 in thick and about 2.5 inches long!
I hope it will be alright!

Chicago

 

[chicago]

Just a question for you guys who have SOA's (thinking of doing my 62). How do you go for stability on high side angles and what is articulation like?

I have super soft springs and no rear stabliser bar which gives me pretty good flex but as soon as it sees any side angle, it wants to have a little sleep (you know - a little lie down). I have already been in situations where other cars drove a washout but I had to have 4 guys hanging off the side to keep it from going over.

Now thinking of my 62 with an extra 4 1/2" of height would make it a forgone conclusion that any side angle would put it on it's side or worse

I have herd that with a SOA on the crusiers, stabliser bars and stiffer spring are about mandatory unless you like rolling down hills/slopes/. Does this mean you have a choice of articulation or clearance but not both?

To the best of my knowledge, the COG issues are very real, but what you lose in COG, you make up for in articulation and are more likely to have all 4 wheels on the ground vs. that of SUA.
I weighed the pros and cons of this conversion for a long time before I went ahead and did it.
I have AAL's all around, and Im planning on getting some stiffer shocks to help with this issue as well, however, Im going to go without the sways and see how it does, but without driving the rig, I have no way of knowing for sure..
Ill post up how I feel about it when I get out and wheel again!
This is a very big concern of mine, but there are many people running SOA's and are very capeable in all situations and are quite happy with the conversion. I hope ill be one of them!

Chicago

 

[chicago]

What else do you have to do besides the trac bar?

oh ya, look good!

Dylan

Track bar
x member
bracket the LSPV
paint stuff
re- assemble
Bleed brakes
add fluids
grease zerks
install steer stabilizer
alingnment
Flex to measure for shocks
weld shock tabs front and rear
weld shock towers on
install shocks
re torque everything
wheel
be happy!!!

Im getting there, but there's still a lot of work to do!

Chicago

 

[chicago]

I thought you sold the bike?

Looking good, we need to get that stuff dirty ASAP.

Nope,
Im gonna try again this spring!
Someone said they were coming up to buy it, but never showed!
Hopefully someone will want it!

Im down for getting all my hard work cleaning, DIRTY!


Chicago

 

[rusty_tlc]

Track bar
x member
bracket the LSPV
paint stuff
re- assemble
Bleed brakes
add fluids
grease zerks
install steer stabilizer
alingnment
Flex to measure for shocks
weld shock tabs front and rear
weld shock towers on
install shocks
re torque everything
wheel
be happy!!!

Im getting there, but there's still a lot of work to do!

Chicago

Give me a call when you are ready to bleed the brakes. I'll give you a hand.
Or anytime for that matter. I'm close enough to come over an help out for 15 minutes if thats all you need, or all afternoon. Whatever.

 

[chicago]

Give me a call when you are ready to bleed the brakes. I'll give you a hand.
Or anytime for that matter. I'm close enough to come over an help out for 15 minutes if thats all you need, or all afternoon. Whatever.

Thanks Rusty!
I might just do that, so I dont have to bother the lil woman!
I got speed bleeders which makes things easier too!
Hey, did you just hit my house with a rock?!

Chicago