FJ 62 SOA begins!

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Mace said:
Nice.. gotta love wheelin parking lots ;)

on the motor mounts, the only thing I can think of is that the spacing of the engine mounts on a 60 (one on the motor and one on the tcase instead of motor and BH) is stressing the mount enough due to frame flex..

Doing a springover tends to make a person take his rig places they might not typically. So there will be additional stresses...

I have not seen a motor mount sheared directly from doing a springover.
Click to expand...

Hey mace,
have you seen this happen as a result of too much flex with a SOA?
Last year in DV, I developed a crack in the 2.5 in plastic air intake hose, and the only thing I could really attribute it to was flexion of the rig. Is this something I should look out for with the motor mounts?
We fixed it with Duct tape;)

thanks for the info!

Chicago
 
Mace said:
Doing a springover tends to make a person take his rig places they might not typically. So there will be additional stresses...

I have not seen a motor mount sheared directly from doing a springover.
Click to expand...

I have been wheeling with two guys who were both sprung over. One said he sheered his mount once and the other guy was behind me on the trail when his came apart. I had to tow him out. :doh: Logic tells me that the spring over had nothing to do with it and does not add more stress but it is rather what Mace has mentioned. Going places or trying trails you would not have when you were sprung under. I have always been sprung under and when I did my 350 conversion I found my motor mounts to be in pretty bad shape. One or two more good trails and I probably would have encountered the same problem.

I am guessing the motor mount deal is partly a design and age issue. If my memory serves me correctly the motor mount has one bushing that is glued in between two pieces of steel that are each seperately bolted, one to the motor and one to the frame. So when you add age, and stress to that motor mount design you will eventually end up with the bushing splitting apart or coming unglued from one of the steel mounts. I would plan for anyone sprung under or sprung over to have spare mounts on hand if they are doing a considerable amount of wheeling.

Final note! Kieth you have done an awesome job! It looks sick. keep the pics coming.
 
probably more of an age thing than anything else.
 
Gone for a week, and here it's done. Good work! Nice height and stance. A slight pull right is pretty normal due to the crown in the road. Something about the lift does that. If it pulls right on a perfectly flat surface, then swap tires side to side before you get too worried.

Regarding the driver side front motor mount-no question, replace it. Mine broke on my 60 at Coyote Flat and I had to chain it down with a short chain and a bolt I bought at Bishop's hardware store. The rear mount on a 60 or 62 is pricy. I replace if bad, but otherwise leave it for later.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Gone for a week, and here it's done. Good work! Nice height and stance. A slight pull right is pretty normal due to the crown in the road. Something about the lift does that. If it pulls right on a perfectly flat surface, then swap tires side to side before you get too worried.

Regarding the driver side front motor mount-no question, replace it. Mine broke on my 60 at Coyote Flat and I had to chain it down with a short chain and a bolt I bought at Bishop's hardware store. The rear mount on a 60 or 62 is pricy. I replace if bad, but otherwise leave it for later.
Click to expand...

Are motor mounts pretty easy to replace?
For some reason, it would seem like a bad thing if that broke!
Im glad that this was brought up, cuz its one more thing that I can be prepared for.

Thanks Andy...
Where'd you go for a week? Vacation I hope!

Chicago
 
88chevota said:
I have been wheeling with two guys who were both sprung over. One said he sheered his mount once and the other guy was behind me on the trail when his came apart. I had to tow him out. :doh: Logic tells me that the spring over had nothing to do with it and does not add more stress but it is rather what Mace has mentioned. Going places or trying trails you would not have when you were sprung under. I have always been sprung under and when I did my 350 conversion I found my motor mounts to be in pretty bad shape. One or two more good trails and I probably would have encountered the same problem.

I am guessing the motor mount deal is partly a design and age issue. If my memory serves me correctly the motor mount has one bushing that is glued in between two pieces of steel that are each seperately bolted, one to the motor and one to the frame. So when you add age, and stress to that motor mount design you will eventually end up with the bushing splitting apart or coming unglued from one of the steel mounts. I would plan for anyone sprung under or sprung over to have spare mounts on hand if they are doing a considerable amount of wheeling.

Final note! Kieth you have done an awesome job! It looks sick. keep the pics coming.
Click to expand...

Good info Chevota!
Damn im glad this was brought up, cuz it makes perfect sense when you think about it.
Thanks also for the props:beer:

Chicago
 
Nothing too cool to offer, I just wanted to updat!
Ive been hemmin and hawin about what shocks to get. I was originally planning on Bilsteins, but they were a bit too expensive for me right now.
I decided to go the the Doetsch Tech 8000's. Theyre 38.07 a piece, and for all 4 with shipping its 180.00. The 8000's are the "Pre-runner" model, with a firm to medium stiffness, so Im hoping that with the AAL's I have, it will help with Body roll some. Not that Ive noticed any yet, but Im sure I will!
They were fairly difficult to find! At Summit, all they have are the DT's for low riders. I ended up ordering them direct from the company for the price stated above!


Wagoneer5 and Jack, thanks for your time!:beer:

Ill post up what I think about em when I can wheel em.

Chicago
 
chicago said:
Nothing too cool to offer, I just wanted to updat!
Ive been hemmin and hawin about what shocks to get. I was originally planning on Bilsteins, but they were a bit too expensive for me right now.
I decided to go the the Doetsch Tech 8000's. Theyre 38.07 a piece, and for all 4 with shipping its 180.00. The 8000's are the "Pre-runner" model, with a firm to medium stiffness, so Im hoping that with the AAL's I have, it will help with Body roll some. Not that Ive noticed any yet, but Im sure I will!
They were fairly difficult to find! At Summit, all they have are the DT's for low riders. I ended up ordering them direct from the company for the price stated above!


Wagoneer5 and Jack, thanks for your time!:beer:

Ill post up what I think about em when I can wheel em.

Chicago
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good deal. They seem to be a pretty solid shock. Can't wait to get it out and see how it works.

Gotta say it again...looking good:bounce:

Jack
 
The DT 8000 or 9000's look like the ticket.

More Doetsch Tech info here...They have got some good looking high end stuff too.
 
The 9K's are not available in the sizes I needed, so I had to go with the 8k's.

Thanks for posting the link to their page, I was gonna do it, but forgot to.:o

Chicago
 
locrwln1 said:
Sounds like a good deal. They seem to be a pretty solid shock. Can't wait to get it out and see how it works.

Gotta say it again...looking good:bounce:

Jack
Click to expand...

Yeup....me too!
Im still not too sure how Im gonna weld the front DS shock tower on being that its SOOOO CLOSE to the steering box. I guess Ill figure something out.
Hopefully in the next week or so Ill be able to actually do a trail.

Thanks

Chicago
 
dude nice job on you soa ,, i have been thinking of doing the same on my 62 it is 4inch in air on 35mtr 4:88 locked front/rear just seems like a little to deep for me but i just hate my spring on the bottom anyways later on
 
I got 35in/12.5 BFG mt's
There's so much more room for tires bigger than that, but...
Just couldnt do the longs right now.
I think I posted the tires and sizes earlier in the thread?:confused:

Chicago
 
I welded the front towers on yesterday...
Used the new stick machine...
They were a BITCH! The only reason i used the stick, was because of the DS tower, the side closest to the steer box...
For those of you thinking about doing an SOA with the Ford towers...This one is really tought.
In the end I got it all squared away, but Ive produced better welds in my life.
Also got the steer stabilizer mounted. I used the factory bracket with the Marlin Crawler stabilizer..
I did have to modify the bracket some to get it to line up right.
Ill get pics on Monday.
Im still waiting for the shocks to come in...Hopefully Monday or Tuesday!
Then Ill be able to wheel it and see how she does.

Chicago
 
That information is ONE PAGE back.
I took the rig out and flexed it, and then measured the distance from eye bolt to eye bolt.
In my case, I didnt have true FULL STUFF/ DROOP, so I measured the remaining distance to the bump stop!
The best way would have been to have a fork llift, hike up one side at a time, but...I didnt have access to a fork lift, so you gotta do what you gotta do.

Chicago
 
chicago said:
That information is ONE PAGE back.
I took the rig out and flexed it, and then measured the distance from eye bolt to eye bolt.
In my case, I didnt have true FULL STUFF/ DROOP, so I measured the remaining distance to the bump stop!
The best way would have been to have a fork llift, hike up one side at a time, but...I didnt have access to a fork lift, so you gotta do what you gotta do.

Chicago
Click to expand...
FYI Sam has an RTI ramp, I'm sure he would let you flex your rig out on it. Eventually I will head over there and get some measurments for bump stops and shock for the 40.

Also I have a much steeper freight ramp at my office than the one you used, it has the cement walls to you can get one wheel WAY up in the air before the oppisite side wheel starts to hit the ramp. I'm just down the street from Summit.
 
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