rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Are you letting Life™ get in the way of working on your 62?
FJ 62 SOA begins!
- Thread starter chicago
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #222
Yeah...during the week!
You know that Im working on it on the weekends, Rusty...
Its the time when I call you with a desperate question!
Work has been CRAZY busy and ive been getting home LATE, after going to the gym...Then Im BUSHED!
Chicago
- Thread starter
- #223
Front end is in and rims and tires are on the vehicle!!!!!!!!
I was expecting lift (OBVIOUSLY), but I was really surprised at how tall this thing got. It looks amazing!
I did a ball park alignment from the FAQ section. There are still a few odds and ends that need to be done, but stuff I really cant do till I can flex it and measure the shocks!
Im so excited!!!!
Here are a bunch-O-pics!
Chicago
I was expecting lift (OBVIOUSLY), but I was really surprised at how tall this thing got. It looks amazing!
I did a ball park alignment from the FAQ section. There are still a few odds and ends that need to be done, but stuff I really cant do till I can flex it and measure the shocks!
Im so excited!!!!
Here are a bunch-O-pics!
Chicago
- Thread starter
- #224
and a few more from the side!
Look'n good Keith! ECD (Estimated Completion Date)?
- Thread starter
- #227
Im hoping to have the rear end out TODAY...
Then set the angles and clean and paint...about another week. Then I gotta get the DS and diffs down the Driveline service of Carson City...Im figuring about another month before I get the rear end to where the front end is...
I still have to build a track bar and x member, and I have to get it running so I can flex it and measure for the shocks.
Yeah, about a month I suppose.
Wish I could have gone with you guyz yesterday!
Chicago
chicago do u know what backspacing you have on those wheels you bought?
- Thread starter
- #229
Yeup,
Theyre 15x 10 with 2.5 in BS!
They really put the tires out and widened the stace quite a bit.
Im still gonna run the 1/4 in spacer as I still have caliper clearance issues.
I may grind down the caliper though, well see.
The hood of the rig now, stands at my wifes cheek bone...
On me, it comes up to my shoulder (mid stroke).
If nothing else....It looks FU*KCING BTICHIN! My iwfe had said too much about this project, till she could visually see the end result.
Now she says..."Oh hunny, your truck looks AWESOME"...Women...
I got the rear end out. pulled the diff cover, got the axles out and started the prep work for it.
I gotta pull the packs apart and get those nice an purdy too.
BTW, Pullin the spring pin...The easiest method that I used to get that damn thing out....beat on the end of the bolt from the back side till it pops the plate out a bit, then use a pickle fork to pry the rest of it out. When its about half way out, I squirted some PB blaster in there and used a hammer to rotate it...it broke free and the rest was easy.
Theyre 15x 10 with 2.5 in BS!
They really put the tires out and widened the stace quite a bit.
Im still gonna run the 1/4 in spacer as I still have caliper clearance issues.
I may grind down the caliper though, well see.
The hood of the rig now, stands at my wifes cheek bone...
On me, it comes up to my shoulder (mid stroke).
If nothing else....It looks FU*KCING BTICHIN! My iwfe had said too much about this project, till she could visually see the end result.
Now she says..."Oh hunny, your truck looks AWESOME"...Women...
I got the rear end out. pulled the diff cover, got the axles out and started the prep work for it.
I gotta pull the packs apart and get those nice an purdy too.
BTW, Pullin the spring pin...The easiest method that I used to get that damn thing out....beat on the end of the bolt from the back side till it pops the plate out a bit, then use a pickle fork to pry the rest of it out. When its about half way out, I squirted some PB blaster in there and used a hammer to rotate it...it broke free and the rest was easy.
Yeup,
Theyre 15x 10 with 2.5 in BS!
They really put the tires out and widened the stace quite a bit.
Im still gonna run the 1/4 in spacer as I still have caliper clearance issues.
I may grind down the caliper though, well see.
The hood of the rig now, stands at my wifes cheek bone...
On me, it comes up to my shoulder (mid stroke).
If nothing else....It looks FU*KCING BTICHIN! My iwfe had said too much about this project, till she could visually see the end result.
Now she says..."Oh hunny, your truck looks AWESOME"...Women...
I got the rear end out. pulled the diff cover, got the axles out and started the prep work for it.
I gotta pull the packs apart and get those nice an purdy too.
BTW, Pullin the spring pin...The easiest method that I used to get that damn thing out....beat on the end of the bolt from the back side till it pops the plate out a bit, then use a pickle fork to pry the rest of it out. When its about half way out, I squirted some PB blaster in there and used a hammer to rotate it...it broke free and the rest was easy.
THANK YOU YOU ARE MY HERO!!!!!!!!! i have been wanting to run those wheels but wasnt sure if i would be able to once it flexed up (i plan on runnin 5" of lift" and 37's (36*13.50*15 irok (36.8")) when i can afford them. roomate has that combo on his fj40 and i love it and would like a wider stance.i figure ill be just shorter than a SOA truck and still be SUA.... this is good news to me i knew the 40's could do it so why not a 60?
truck looks great by the way
ok hijack over.
Yeup,
Theyre 15x 10 with 2.5 in BS!
They really put the tires out and widened the stace quite a bit.
Im still gonna run the 1/4 in spacer as I still have caliper clearance issues.
I may grind down the caliper though, well see.
The hood of the rig now, stands at my wifes cheek bone...
On me, it comes up to my shoulder (mid stroke).
If nothing else....It looks FU*KCING BTICHIN! My iwfe had said too much about this project, till she could visually see the end result.
Now she says..."Oh hunny, your truck looks AWESOME"...Women...
I got the rear end out. pulled the diff cover, got the axles out and started the prep work for it.
I gotta pull the packs apart and get those nice an purdy too.
BTW, Pullin the spring pin...The easiest method that I used to get that damn thing out....beat on the end of the bolt from the back side till it pops the plate out a bit, then use a pickle fork to pry the rest of it out. When its about half way out, I squirted some PB blaster in there and used a hammer to rotate it...it broke free and the rest was easy.
Keith...just a thought in case you aren't on it already: While the diff housing is empty you may want to consider welding diff housing protection...
YODA 88 62
SILVER Star
Here are some pics of my crossmember. Made out of 2x4in, 1/4in wall tubing. It mounts to 2x2in, 1/4in thick angle iron with 4 holes drilled in it to allow three different mounting positions.
I will eventually build a skid plate and another crossmember in front of the transmission.
Charles
I will eventually build a skid plate and another crossmember in front of the transmission.
Charles
Is that a crossmember for a traction/anti-wrap bar?
- Thread starter
- #234
Hey Charles!
Nice work bro! You and I are on (essentially) the same page, but I was gonna try and shoot the x member straight across.
Here's a drawing of what I had in mind...
Im gonna use 2x2 square stock, and the 2x2 in angle iron...
However, Im gonna weld another 1/4 in plate on TOP of the 2x2 stock and bolt up to the angle iron that will (of course) be welded to the frame.
Take a look!
Chicago
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Isn't that going to hang kinda low?
BTW nice sketches.
BTW nice sketches.
- Thread starter
- #236
If I can do it like I drew, NO! it will actually sit above the x fer cross member. The down side is that Ill have to mount the shackle on the top of it, sacrificing a bit of "flatness". Im hoping that Ill be able to kick the brackets BACK on the housing to level it out some.
I cant do anything till I get the rear SOA'd to find out.
Really, there is no where else I can go with it...
Ive looked high on the frame rails which have the brake lines mounted on the PS, and I really dont feel comfy welding around those. On the DS, they put that F*CKING exhaust right in the way of everything, hooking UNDER the frame rail....
What were they thinking?!
Chicago
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Ever heard of LT Muffler? They do a lot of offroad rigs. The PO had the exhaust on my 40 routed under the skid plate.If I can do it like I drew, NO! it will actually sit above the x fer cross member. The down side is that Ill have to mount the shackle on the top of it, sacrificing a bit of "flatness". Im hoping that Ill be able to kick the brackets BACK on the housing to level it out some.
I cant do anything till I get the rear SOA'd to find out.
Really, there is no where else I can go with it...
Ive looked high on the frame rails which have the brake lines mounted on the PS, and I really dont feel comfy welding around those. On the DS, they put that F*CKING exhaust right in the way of everything, hooking UNDER the frame rail....
What were they thinking?!
Chicago
Cost about $400 to redo the whole system.
YODA 88 62
SILVER Star
Yes, it is overkill for just an anti-wrap bar. I will eventually build another crossmember in front of the transmission and put a skid plate between them. i would rather overbuild than have to worry about it in the future
If I can do it like I drew, NO! it will actually sit above the x fer cross member. The down side is that Ill have to mount the shackle on the top of it, sacrificing a bit of "flatness". Im hoping that Ill be able to kick the brackets BACK on the housing to level it out some.
I cant do anything till I get the rear SOA'd to find out.
Really, there is no where else I can go with it...
Ive looked high on the frame rails which have the brake lines mounted on the PS, and I really dont feel comfy welding around those. On the DS, they put that F*CKING exhaust right in the way of everything, hooking UNDER the frame rail....
What were they thinking?!
Chicago
i cut my exhaust off at the end of the cats. I will get a shop to redo it later.
YODA 88 62
SILVER Star
Also, i am gonna run the single bar instead of the ladder bar.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Straight bars are weaker unless you use some extreeem stock.
Think about how much weight a truss roof can support with just 2x4's compared to a beam. The ladder bar is a type of truss, it gives the most strength for the least weight.
