Builds Fixing up “The big Ox” (3 Viewers)

[on the rocks]

Some further behind the scenes going on so not a lot to report but wanted to put some detail here so not if, but when I forget what I decided I have a reference. Back to waiting on a few things to come together. a sign of the times...
Pulled the trigger with Vanco, couple things to note on the discussion:
- They will use -6AM fittings which should work well and I believe the 80 parts will be the same.
- I was told to use high end power steering NOT ATF. Need to look into this and likely go Amsoil or Royal purple or Lucas. This may make some heads spin here, I'm sure...
- I was told the master cylinder is 1 1/8 bore size, Seems a bit on the large side and makes me a bit nervous but I asked twice...
- Now resorting to stalking Wits end website for the return of the in house made lines and cooler availability....
- All 3/16" lines ordered, some OEM lines ordered to change it up a bit over OEM ABS feeds.
- M10x1.0 Toyota OEM fittings ordered.
- crimp tool ordered
- Will likely stick with Willwood DOT3 brake fluid since already using it and adding more of their parts on. Confirmed DOT3 ordered
- Ordered a couple 90 degree OEM M10x1.0 OEM fitting from various vehicles I thought would work and turns out I may still need to modify them a bit. Ultimate weird goal is to use the existing rear feed that pairs up to the front of the engine bay and pair a second line to the front right to the axle using the original rear fees in the engine bay. I have to modify 2 fittings to use the OEM axle for the NON ABS brakes(47354-60121) in the 80,
- One 90 degree fitting to replace the LPSV in the rear. This will be a 90 degree from either a 100 series or Tacoma with bracket. I believe I will utilize the rear RTN line instead of the feed which I believe most do since I hope to not pull from the original rear feed I have now. 90412-A0005 used on the rear 90. Along with a 1" isolator/ spacer and 1/4- 20 rivnut and mounting.
- this should use the same prop valve Baldilocks used on his setup. Need details on fitting once received.1/8-27 NPT inverted(double) flare for 3/16 hard line

I combined the parts diagram below for NON and ABS brake lines. Plan for now:
red- lines removed.
orange- rear feed from prop valve and removing LSPV
green-use existing left-front line as is.
blue- use existing rear hard brake feed to front, transition back to frame using the left front hard line(47317-60061) and possibly right frame to axle coupler (as shown 47397) or a second FR (47354), pair a soft line to axle and use the NON OEM type hard line to front-right. With this feed it solves the sway bar taking out the brake line issue as a bonus.

 

[on the rocks]

After purchasing the NON ABS triple fitting(hard to find so may post in classified soon) on the front axle, I decided it was silly to combine 2 outputs off the proportioning valve to later split again at the axle. Still not liking the original ABS OEM passenger routing(plan "B") I decided to fab up 2 fittings redneck style to try out
Other than finding time I still need to work out the second frame to axle fitting and soft line. May reach out to SLEE to see if they will sell a single instead of a KIT to accomplish this along with moving the passenger side frame to axle link over. I wanted to get a NON ABS driver side to pair but now NLA so not an option.
Tempted to make the old second rear feed everyone removed when doing a LSPV delete into a hard air line to the front to inflate the front end off the OBA tank in the pile of things to do. It's a bit smaller than the 3/16 I'm using but not by much.
Also looking at a remote adjustment for the Proportioning vale to mount in cab on the dash, likely next to a Redarc brake controller sitting also in the pile of TTD
If stars align, I hope to tear into it soon!
Since this makes absolutely no sense I added my redneck OEM fitting I hacked up for pictures. Outside weighing 10 lbs it seems to turned out useable.

 

[on the rocks]

Enough trying to sort it out and diving into the brakes and steering. Before starting/ post charcoal canister removal(which is still working wonderful and made this so much easier)

All opened up and rearranged a bit. Reminder to myself before too long, I need to re-route the RTN feeds to the SP, I took them in the top and they are hitting the hood when closed. Left the ABS plugs in place for now. Need to see if I can repurpose or remove when doing major surgery on the motor later.

Resulting in this. I have to find the two interior ABS units to unplug and remove yet.

 

[on the rocks]

First up. The front axle routing. Dropped my double redneck fitting when I went to put it on and gummed up the thread.... Shiat, Cleaned it up and lost 2 threads. I had a spare and may take the original and make another. Overall it went on well. Passenger side lined up. Used 3 ABS fitting to secure the line to the passenger side. Cleared up the mount location to tie to the caliper and may prevent brake line carnage if the sway bar mounts I welded break free.

Decided on some TG 6" extension lines from Cruiser outfitters, in stock and they ship quick. I will use the front passenger side and driver for the front drops. One is slightly further as shown below to the left(new passenger feed, I moved the passenger side mount and tied to the existing DS frame mount). Might as well replace the rear while at it. Old SLEE lines holding up well.

Cooler mounted in and lines on but hanging loose for now. Done with the Delta front bumper in place. Just able to get in with the drill...

LSPV no more. I have run rear bags for 20 years and will add them again soon. Don't care what anyone says, I don't see the LSPV functioning properly with a lift and with the bags I know it's not. Going manual adjustment. I chose to use the lower line that ties to the point just below the old booster. I think the feed will work better and this frees up the old rear line for the passenger routing. I have the diff line feeding here so decided on a 1" isolator I had on hand with 1/4-20 threads and a little more meat for a solid mount. Terrible color but paintable and will be all black soon. I bought a handful of 90's and one worked well here with a new hole in the cross member. I believe the 90 fitting I went with was 90412-A0005. Added another mount on an open threaded hole near the frame to axle line. The bracket was missing or never there and I have tons of spares to use so I though WTF.

 

[on the rocks]

On to the steering pump. Found a pitman arm puller than needed some grinding and worked out great. Also went with a wit's end tool for the gear. Probably could have used a couple pieces of lumber per the FSM but it worked well. New pump, 5/8" Wit's end return line on hose on (love the clamps he went with, but not shown here) and woodruff key and gear back on and torqued to FSM spec.

AN fitting installed to the gear box and torqued to same as FSM spec on the old line, this will tie to the cooler, length looks good but waiting until the lines complete.

 

[on the rocks]

Booster in place with MC also mounted up. Will need to pull it back off and bench bleed they system but also noticed a few differences I'm seeing with current kits on here and the Vanco:
- I received 1 1/4" long 3/8" - 24 bolts, they are too short so ordered up some at 1 3/4". This will allow for the lock washer and possibly additional thread to later mount a bracket.
- I had to slightly ream the holes out on the firewall to fit the bolts, easy to get to.
-I did notice the brake pedal mounting is shorter than the measurement I have from firewall to pin hole. Little concerned with this but it should place the brake pedal closer to the floor and with the larger bore I assume not an issue due to the claimed shorter pedal throw. I'll have to reach out to Vanco to address if so. I also need to address a mount for the spring for the brake pedal as this new pin doesn't seem to incorporate a mount. Switch under the dash will need adjustment.
- I have noticed others use banjo bolts out of the booster. This one does not, instead uses 90 degree AN fittings. It will throw the feeds further down since mounted upside-down but it doesn't seem to be an issue at this point.
- I told them about the 180 reversal and the mounting was not reversed. Again not a showstopper but it took additional adjustments and it's hard to get it leveled unless you mount it up and mark levelness and remove to adjust. simple retainer nut and flip the 4 hole mounting bracket.

I didn't get a good picture of the OEM lines and the routing the way I chose to plumb the lines pre-adjustment. But you can see the original lines shown above for the driver front and rear feeds from the ABS. With a slight adjustment to the bends in the front where they wind and frame mount I was able to adjust both lines about ~1" to perfectly match the (2) FO lines I will use. I adjusted, marked and cut two inverted or double flare fittings to 1/8-27 NPT inverted(double) flare for 3/16 hard line fitting on the PV outputs. OEM lines retained here including 2 mounts to fender.

Original rear feed from frame to T fitting on booster removed and I took the firewall feed to PS line and cut back and shaped to replace the RO to 90 on the frame to rear LSPV feed. Again, using the bottom feed, not the top that extends to the front most use. This kept the looped feed they used on all lines body to frame, again added the 1/8-27 NPT inverted(double) flare the PV uses on the OEM 3/16" line. Very little shaping to make this work. Pushed the 3 fuel line CC feeds back slightly using OEM mount still. No further mods on the run to the rear LSPV.

Lots of room opened up to the rear. It was mentioned earlier but igniter and rear washer actuator(?) repositioned to the inner fender including the crappy aftermarket alarm I have. This was pre fuel line adjustment.

 

[on the rocks]

Last picture of this group is the removed passenger front ABS line used for the new RO feed. Cut is about where the red line is. Knowing it now and how the crimper I got works, I would get the length and add the fitting PRE- bend. You can only get the fitting on so far in on the line and needs to be a certain distance from the end due to the crimp die and it is cut right where this bend is. Much easier and cleaner to bend the line post fittings. The rest of the line is removed(upper line from red mark) and I used it to practice making fittings. OEM lines are cheap, If I could do it again, I would order all new and modify them. I might still do this, I'm expecting leaks and redoing something. This brake line tool is cool. I love it tho. Where can I add more hard lines with this thing?

 

[baldilocks]

Good luck with the MC. I went through two of those rather quickly. The side of the pistons scored and the seals ended up in the reservoir in under 1k miles.

For two years now a cast iron $55 MC from Napa has done the job. The WW set up does look nice though.

 

[on the rocks]

Good luck with the MC. I went through two of those rather quickly. The side of the pistons scored and the seals ended up in the reservoir in under 1k miles.

For two years now a cast iron $55 MC from Napa has done the job. The WW set up does look nice though.

NOW you mention this?!?!? LOL, JK Well at least I will know soon if it's a failure! I will be using Willwood Dot 3 they recommend if it makes a difference. Switched over with the front caliper swap and so far so good.

Soft lines came in. Not sure they are +6" but they should be good, front doesn't get much flex, not sure I'll be jumping the fat pig any time soon.
Finished the hard lines from the front and pulled what was the rear feed back and crimped a 1/8-27 (PV fitting) on the line by mistake ( this is the longest line in the 80 to the rear, pretty sure NLA) Ended up working out well cutting it off and re-fitting the M10 x 1.0 fitting as it was long and blocking the starter. 2nd try split the front DS and rear feeds perfect. Very happy with it.
Replaced all factory clamps and checked for clearances and no rubbing and adjusted as needed, I may clamp the stainless feeds and diff breather together but not sure yet. Breather line moved for the picture.
All brake lines in and tightened. All OEM but 3 fittings on the PV and of course the 7 soft lines,

New steering pump back in and torqued. (2) high pressure stainless lines in. Now going from pump to booster, booster to steering box. Low pressure line from booster to "T" fitting return from cooler to reservoir and cooler lines from steering box and back through the "T' and reservoir. Pretty standard I believe.
Not sure I like the 90 AN fittings off the booster but they flow well and I was able to use a couple brackets on the stainless feeds that worked perfect again. High pressure fittings done, pretty sure they will leak lol. Pretty simple tho and didn't have issues making the ends. Would much rather have them professionally ordered to length and crimped,
I probably have 30 various bolts and 10-15 brackets from this and using the heck out of them. Amazing how many bolts and brackets you pull off the ABS removal. Makes me want to find any Toyota I can at some local pull and pays and pull everything in site,
Didn't paint the reservoir black as most do. I hope it's gone soon... Leaving it be along with the 6 cylinder brick.
Throttle cable needs to be supported yet. Think I saw a removed bracket today or may fusion 360 a couple and order online just to see how it goes.
Opens up so much space,,,,

Some more of the power steering feeds mentioned above along with the now front DS/PS feeds,

 

[baldilocks]

Who knows why mine failed, hopefully you will have better luck with the MC. I wish the WW had worked for me because it looks much nicer. Good work.

The guy across the road from my place runs that same MC on his 56 Chevy with no issues but the brakes are not boosted.

 

[on the rocks]

System is 100% in and working. Had a quick drive to the car was to wash it down and it worked well.
- one leak on a brake line fitting I made, RF frame to braided line. tightened it up and seems good to go.
- 1 1/8" bore seems a bit large on first impression. Much firmer pedal but lots more testing before I rule this out.
- On test drive I had a leak upon hard braking on the booster to steering box braided line I made. Seemed a little loose and I can't tighten unless I pull the line... I may get some more steering fluid and flush the old mixed ATF that was in the box and do a complete replace of this line.
- brake pedal seems to be returning to normal driving position bit slow. Calling Vanco today to question this and possibly get a new fully made stainless braded line made @ 30" with 90 degree AN6 fittings. Maybe ask @NLXTACY if they can pull this off with their new tool? All their lines in and looking good but low pressure lines. NO LUCK ON A FACTORY CRIMPED LINE BUT FOUND LOCAL. SLOW RETURN IS NORMAL.
- Bleeding the steering sucked. 40 full lock to lock cycles and finally got it. I think cranking with coil wire removed, 5 lock to lock cycles until levels stopped dropping is key first, then starting it up and cycle the steering many times running worked best. Not touching the brake until done, then move to the brake. The Vanco procedure did nothing for me. Everything I watched online said the opposite and to NOT pump the brakes 4 times releasing the actuator when not running.


Stuck with the Wilwood DOT3 fluid and trying Royal purple power steering fluid. Vanco very clear NOT to use ATF. Have to trust the pros.

In it's final resting place. Added 3 modified mounts to the throttle cable.

Some 40-0 stops in the works. Expecting another significant less stopping distance just on first drive. Pump and booster much louder than OEM without a doubt, wondering how true the Royal Purple claims on the top of the bottle are.... Little funky feel but used to OEM with 20+ years on it.

 

[on the rocks]

Wish I would have done this earlier. Local shop custom made braided line in 4 hours…
Clocked the fittings exactly as requested with same fittings and length. All for $58…

 

[on the rocks]

Since this local kid nailed the high pressure new steering line, I was able to go around and scrounge up 2 bottles of steering fluid. Everything back on and no leaks. Went for a quick test and didn't get my expected 15' shorter stopping distance from 40-0, Didn't get 10' or even 5' improvement, I got 33' less than the 6 piston add!!!! WTF?!?!? that's 44' less than 35's, 500 lb's lighter and a tired ass old brake system. That's the length of a damn bus! I don't know if it was the booster, ABS or LSPV everyone swears by but at this point I don't give a shiat, I have brakes!!!

Pedal is a bit stiff and 1 1/16" bore is likely the sweet spot but I will work the rears and assume I will gain some piston size and hopefully balance it out. Vanco was great on the customer service when I called and is sending a clevis extension to get the pedal back up some.

So a note for any future reference, What they say is a Toyota kit, is almost a kit. I personally would stick with regular or no HP lines and go local, professionally crimped stainless/ braided, clocked as needed and much cheaper. Fire wall bolts need to be another 1/2" longer, Maybe request a 1 1/.6" MC or go T100 non ABS(I actually still have mine still but don't think I will go back in unless this WW fails, this would entail a lot of work on the proportioning valve tie tho) Firewall mount rotated 180 degrees, Clevis extension, don't adjust brake light switch. Bleed process- fill reservoir, steering clock to clock 5 times, turn over with coil plug removed, refill, repeat until level holds, start and run, rotate steering clock to clock several times then move to brakes. ANY sound, stop and refill before you repeat. There is sound, there is air and not good. Pretty sure my leaky line was sucking in air.

Final before/ After :

 

[on the rocks]

Since this unexpected brake saga is nearing the end, I'm going to pull some of my Willwood/ Tundra slip rotor upgrade here for reference. At some point I will do matching Wilwood rear and Electric E brake and revisit but hoping this will be a winter thing, this is going to take some work to get the right fitment and brackets made. With Fusion 360, I excited to dive in! Time to get back to driving and camping this summer.

Look back: I Like Big Brakes and I Cannot Lie!!! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/i-like-big-brakes-and-i-cannot-lie.1203263/page-7
Thanks to @I Lean for the machine work and timely return on the hubs and rotors. He did all lathe, drilling and press work. Nice work man, and thanks again for the help. Decided to take it to the next level and add a little bling, f&*% it. I'm sure not for everyone but it is for me. It all looks small in the pictures but it's definitely SUPERSIZED. Likely triple the cost minus rims and tires that was originally posted using the OEM 100 rotors and OEM 4runner calipers but she has been neglected for some time so time to make up to her.
Hub bearing grease not included in picture and the T100 MC will be a later phase with likely a brake line ABS/ LSPV delete. Also long overdue. I would like to do some before / after stops and see what the actual improvement is and tweak as I go and feel necessary.

Both Calipers have a different designation at the end. They are side specific but the holder is the same part both sides. I basically took the 2014 4Runner 6 piston upgrade kit that happens to be made for a in house 14" rotor(will not work in either 100/tundra setup) that happened to have a narrower rotor in the kit and butchered it with similar parts Willwood carries. They have the same caliper that accommodates the wider Tundra rotor @ 1.25. The mounting brackets with the kits were a little confusing on their site so I called their engineer and ran through it all to confirm measurements. The holder they list in their spec sheet is a replacement part without shims and mounting. I got this sorted out and came up with 250-14666(includes all needed parts to mount). Per spec, it should be completely bolt on for both 4 Runner and the 80 similar to your OEM 4Runner calipers. The only difference is the mounting rail and bracket is longer and accommodates the big daddy Tundra rotor at 14" along with the adjusted caliper placement the 4 runner 6 piston upgrade kit uses along with their 14" rotor upgrade. As you know you cant use their 4Runner rotor unfortunately so why I had to break up the kit. In theory, and double checking measurements all alignments, mounting and rotor diameter should work. As listed before, I'm already running 18" rims and will try those first if all goes well to check clearance for 95% of everyone running 17". They state the caliper is made for an 18" rim minimum and will not work on 17"'s but you never know.
In the 3rd picture posted it sort of shows their mounting and how it relates to the caliper. All factory shim capable so adjustments can be made inward and out for minor alignment if needed. Hopefully with fingers crossed it's a non issue but good to know they manufacture these to account for this.
They pitch this upgrade kit to be OEM 4 Runner MC or booster compatible, I forget which they use, so I hope to have no pedal issues as you guys don't seem to be having but got the larger T100 MC for backup. The caliper isn't as big as I thought it would be but thinking similar to the OEM 4Runner with 6 piston instead. Hopefully, I'll get it tested here soon, if not I can report back until February when my re-gear is done and just do it all at once.
I had a small window this weekend to start checking fitment. Some went good and some not so good. Unfortunately my window is gone for likely another month or more. A Lot on the plate so going to revisit after my axle rebuild and re-gear in February. Will proceed with the M14 swap front/ rear, certainly an upgrade worthy in itself and will be done when the axles are out.
Caliper mount- driver side fitment was just slightly off, back side against the birf had to be shaved very slightly to be able to mount. Spent a lot of time with a file to get it to mount without binding. Not a huge deal but unfortunately not bolt on. I tried to get a picture of how much I took off but it was so slight it didnt show, one item to note if I can pull this off. OEM mount Bolt fitment and spacing was great and as expected after I got it to fit.
Now the bad on the mounts. After getting the hub and rotor on and tightened up I went to put on the caliper and it was slightly off. 5MM or .21" and unfortunately the caliper pushed too far inward. The mount comes with shims but only to shim inward and add diameter as needed. No way to shim it in either other direction(out, less diameter). 5mm doesn't sound like much but it's about what was shaved from the face of the hub to get here. I dont think another 5mm would be smart. I'll call Wilwood and see if they have an option with a 5mm offset. They have ton of mounts. If not I'm considering machining off the front of the bracket where it mounts to the birf, maybe a combo of hub and mount to split the difference. Wishing I had a CNC machine and the skills, it doesn't look too difficult to fab a new caliper mount. The specs did mention the kit may push the wheel out on the 4 runner so wasn't too worried but surprised to see it was the opposite on the mount and actually pulled everything in.

rotor- Everything seemed to go as expected here. mounted up nicely, unfortunately even with a pad pulled it was just off enough I couldn't get the caliper to slide on but measured everything out and it looked good diameter wise and the caliper with pads fit on it snug. The 80 rotor is actually the same thickness so I decided to mount the old hub/ rotor combo and try the caliper and still 5mm off. Seems the hub was machined just about right but maybe could use .1mm more to line the same. With the diameter spacer pulled on the caliper mount this caliper looked to work on the OEM 80 rotor. the face was very close if not exact as the tundra. If I can get the alignment sorted I will actually check the fitment to the 80 rotor just for the hell of it. Betting the 6 piston will fit in a 17" rim.

Overall clearance. From what I could fit and measure, plenty of clearance in all directions for adjustment, Especially in the 5mm I need to gain outward.

dust shield- unfortunately I have one cut now lol. All good I will get this or the 4runner/ 100 on eventually. Actually a ton of room with the rotor on the outside of the hub.
Made me think you could machine the spindle mount down or easily machine the hub inwards and pull it in 5mm.... likely not going there though.

side note- these raceline rims are beefy SOB's, going to have to look for longer M14 x 1.5 studs. would have left the new machined hub on with the 80 rotor on the rear until sorted but I need a 1/4" spacer from the machined face of the hub and the possible issue with length of studs. Going to work to make this happen by axle time. It was painful putting that old hub and bearing back on with the old oil soaked grease...

caliper port- 1/8-24 NPT female thread. More to come on this...

 

[on the rocks]

Made a little progress, just down to finding time to try another fitment. Found a great affordable local machinist that said he could make an entire new caliper mount bracket with the correct offset and no mill off the factory Wilwood bracket if necessary. Plenty of meat left on the bracket after he machined it down so see no need for it and the engineer at Wilwood actually recommended it to fit, which I was surprised to hear.
Waiting for the brake line to connect the caliper and will move forward, will update part number in post #122 once I receive it and know it works. At this time I'm way off the buy and bolt on you guys started with but do know this will work now, just a matter of patience and time to get it done. Done drifted here from the original affordable route but all good.

* side note, after going through pages and pages of Wilwood bracket mount kits, they have a Wrangler bracket that "looks" to have a better offset and correct mount spacing. No idea where I put the part number for reference but may look at if I run into issues. May be a better fit with less machining necessary.

Got both front calipers on and working. Bled the entire system with Wilwood recommended brake fluid and took it for a drive. Followed the bedding process per Wilwood and so far I love the improvement. I have a few more things to button up but can tell a big improvement over stock. Pedal feels good and not sure the MC needs upsized but I will likely finish the system off with the larger T100 larger bore and new rear calipers, LSVP, possible ABS delete. Upsized the tires and wheels (148lb fat pigs) at the same time so its hard to compare the pre 18” and 35’s but I know its better by feel alone. Did some measurements on stopping distance pre Wilwood and need to unload all the junk and get a few miles on them before I kill myself with flying cruiser parts laying in the back and just make sure everything functions well and compare stopping distance pre/ post.
Couple to do items:
- Reached out to Wilwood for caliper mount bolt sleeves, the set in the kit throws the mounting too far out. Stacked some washers to get the placement right. Yet to hear back, once replaced I’ll update size and do a solid full on 40-0 stop test. Mounts are solid but not happy until the correct spacers with minimal shims are in( basically washers from manufacture)
- Brake lines and fitting are a bit long but work fine, also reached out for shorter lengths, again no response yet.
- 17” fitment. Not 100% sure. 16” will not work, 18” runs about .847 clearance between caliper and rim. Possibly with correctly placed weights they would work. If I come across a 17” wheel that will fit I can measure.
- no dust boots on these so we will see how that goes but not concerned at all at this point. She doesn’t get out much and doing research they claim they do a ton of offroad racing with these calipers.
- mounting bolts stick out a bit more but zero clearance issues. Tons of room in all directions.

18’s

20’s. Plenty of room and some. Makes the tundra rotors look small again...

Can’t remember if the space was from the mounting studs, they can be trimmed back if so.

Inside clearance shot 18’s

Washers to be replaced with correct spacer sleeves before she see’s much road time. As mentioned very solid mount tho.

Some parts will look loose in pictures but trust me went through everything many times. Nothing will fall off yet...
Possible working rear sets to match but have tons of other things to massage so likely getting a set of OEM rears and color matched as well as possible. Likely with improved fronts I can ditch the proportioning valve but will probably install anyway. Not sure I have seen one but like the idea of a rear LSVP mount area for the manual valve and maybe add the remote dial back on the bumper or inside. Makes sense to adjust when loading a trailer.

 

[on the rocks]

Made a little progress, just down to finding time to try another fitment. Found a great affordable local machinist that said he could make an entire new caliper mount bracket with the correct offset and no mill off the factory Wilwood bracket if necessary. Plenty of meat left on the bracket after he machined it down so see no need for it and the engineer at Wilwood actually recommended it to fit, which I was surprised to hear.
Waiting for the brake line to connect the caliper and will move forward, will update part number in post #122 once I receive it and know it works. At this time I'm way off the buy and bolt on you guys started with but do know this will work now, just a matter of patience and time to get it done. Done drifted here from the original affordable route but all good.

* side note, after going through pages and pages of Wilwood bracket mount kits, they have a Wrangler bracket that "looks" to have a better offset and correct mount spacing. No idea where I put the part number for reference but may look at if I run into issues. May be a better fit with less machining necessary.

Got both front calipers on and working. Bled the entire system with Wilwood recommended brake fluid and took it for a drive. Followed the bedding process per Wilwood and so far I love the improvement. I have a few more things to button up but can tell a big improvement over stock. Pedal feels good and not sure the MC needs upsized but I will likely finish the system off with the larger T100 larger bore and new rear calipers, LSVP, possible ABS delete. Upsized the tires and wheels (148lb fat pigs) at the same time so its hard to compare the pre 18” and 35’s but I know its better by feel alone. Did some measurements on stopping distance pre Wilwood and need to unload all the junk and get a few miles on them before I kill myself with flying cruiser parts laying in the back and just make sure everything functions well and compare stopping distance pre/ post.
Couple to do items:
- Reached out to Wilwood for caliper mount bolt sleeves, the set in the kit throws the mounting too far out. Stacked some washers to get the placement right. Yet to hear back, once replaced I’ll update size and do a solid full on 40-0 stop test. Mounts are solid but not happy until the correct spacers with minimal shims are in( basically washers from manufacture)
- Brake lines and fitting are a bit long but work fine, also reached out for shorter lengths, again no response yet.
- 17” fitment. Not 100% sure. 16” will not work, 18” runs about .847 clearance between caliper and rim. Possibly with correctly placed weights they would work. If I come across a 17” wheel that will fit I can measure.
- no dust boots on these so we will see how that goes but not concerned at all at this point. She doesn’t get out much and doing research they claim they do a ton of offroad racing with these calipers.
- mounting bolts stick out a bit more but zero clearance issues. Tons of room in all directions.

18’s

20’s. Plenty of room and some. Makes the tundra rotors look small again...

Can’t remember if the space was from the mounting studs, they can be trimmed back if so.

Inside clearance shot 18’s

Washers to be replaced with correct spacer sleeves before she see’s much road time. As mentioned very solid mount tho.

Some parts will look loose in pictures but trust me went through everything many times. Nothing will fall off yet...
Possible working rear sets to match but have tons of other things to massage so likely getting a set of OEM rears and color matched as well as possible. Likely with improved fronts I can ditch the proportioning valve but will probably install anyway. Not sure I have seen one but like the idea of a rear LSVP mount area for the manual valve and maybe add the remote dial back on the bumper or inside. Makes sense to adjust when loading a trailer.

PRE HYDRO BOOSTER AND WILWOOD MC.
Parts to complete the upgrade PRE fitment. Fingers crossed I got this S*&T right:
T100 MC- ABS BKN34031N
MC tank level switch- tbd, pending 80 tank working on T100 MC. Not sure this confirmed or needed
Tundra rotor 14”x 1.25 W- current rears are stop tech drilled and slotted, matching rotor front: StopTech 315-127-44156CL;315-127-44156CR
Caliper bracket Wilwood - both the same part number and accommodates the 14" rotor, includes mounting and shims; 950-250-14666; must machine mounting face 5mm. Spacer is slightly too big pushing caliper too far out. reaching out to see if they have a .411" spacer or slightly less. Will machine down if not.
Caliper FNSL6R Wilwood red 14” 6 piston 4 runner upgrade OEM MC fit: 950-120-11779-RD; 950-120-11778-RD
Brake pads- lots of options but went Smartpad superlite BP-10; 950-150-8855K
M14 lug nuts- lug centric tbd. Looking race line.L73809LBKA6NV
Replaced both front hubs fully with all parts with Cruiser Outfitters.FA69046 hub; M14 wheel stud x25 WHL02083OEM;OEM HUB rebuild kit x2
All OEM items from Cruiser outfitters since local to I LEAN and myself somewhat. Rough parts and labor total to date including machine work- ~$2850
Tacoma flex-line brake line extension to caliper. Due to special caliper thread, the OEM line will need to be replaced. Fitment and necessity pending, may use 45 degree fitting they provide and keep braided line. 950-220-14618. These look to be a bit long, reaching out to see if they have a shorter kit.

 

[White Stripe]

My hydro boost also had slow return pedal but it went away after driving it for a bit. Maybe the fluid had some air in it. With stock brakes I can stop very well. I used a gm master cylinder from a trailblazer and gm hydroboost from a Yukon xl. Initially I used a h2 master but the travel was too short and the pedal too hard. It also stopped well. I had some sketchy trailer brake issues. When towing my heavy trailer my trailer brakes quit for a while. With the hydroboost I still had great Braking with the trailer brakes inop. I too will go to larger front brakes at some point just because I think bigger pads would last longer and dissipate heat better, but that's the only reason. As far as brake fluid if you want better heat capacity there is a dot 5.1 fluid. It's a step up from dot 5.

 

[on the rocks]

My hydro boost also had slow return pedal but it went away after driving it for a bit. Maybe the fluid had some air in it. With stock brakes I can stop very well. I used a gm master cylinder from a trailblazer and gm hydroboost from a Yukon xl. Initially I used a h2 master but the travel was too short and the pedal too hard. It also stopped well. I had some sketchy trailer brake issues. When towing my heavy trailer my trailer brakes quit for a while. With the hydroboost I still had great Braking with the trailer brakes inop. I too will go to larger front brakes at some point just because I think bigger pads would last longer and dissipate heat better, but that's the only reason. As far as brake fluid if you want better heat capacity there is a dot 5.1 fluid. It's a step up from dot 5.

Good feedback, I probably should have pushed back on Vanco more on the 1 1/8" bore. I will try to stick with it tho. Ultimately I want the comfortable with the feel but wont dive in and reducing it quit yet and give it a chance. I know they based this system on the Wrangler and don't get how they would ever go that big of bore. Its almost like an un-boosted feel but you really push and it WILL stop, and fast. After getting them I thought the 6 piston actually have a small pad area. I was surprised but the do work much better. If on a budget, I would seriously consider the OEM 4runner calipers. It's hard to beat the price.
For the fluid, I assume some mountain drives will tell this story soon. I'll use them pretty hard just to see how they hold up. Otherwise this bit fat pig is too slow to use them enough to get them heated up much

 

[White Stripe]

Good feedback, I probably should have pushed Vanco more on the 1 1/8" bore. I will try to stick with it tho. Ultimately I want the comfortable with the feel but wont dive in and reducing it quit yet and give it a chance. I know they based this system on the Wrangler and don't get how they would ever go that big of bore. Its almost like an un-boosted feel but you really push and it WILL stop, and fast. After getting them I thought the 6 piston actually have a small pad area. I was surprised but the do work much better. If on a budget, I would seriously consider the OEM 4runner calipers. It's hard to beat the price.
For the fluid, I assume some mountain drives will tell this story soon. I'll use them pretty hard just to see how they hold up. Otherwise this bit fat pig is too slow to use them enough to get them heated up much

I think I'm using 1" bore or something. The h2 master was 1 9/16", my foot got tired in heavy traffic with that one. I will probably go 4runner stuff or something oem. Your setup turned out really nice.

 

[baldilocks]

Nice work here.