First Vehicle to work on - FJ40 (2 Viewers)

[PidgeonGuggolo]

The big clips in 5 are for two pipes that ran to the air cleaner. Yours are sealed off. I guess they are crank case breathers?

No idea what number 3 is. Looks like an electric fan or maybe an old police siren?? What's it connected to?

I've never seen the horn there on the bulkhead - is it still wired with the relay?

Got to check the wiring and connections then.

I have the weirdest compression readings. After charging the booster i continued, chamber 6 gives me 120 psi. So i was suspicious and redid number 3 and 4 and they are both 10 psi higher. I dont get it but it looks like the compression test are from 90 psi up to 120 psi.

1. 97
2. 89
3. 97
4. 90
5. 103
6. 120
(What to make of it?)

 

[South Texas 97]

1. That is the horn, but it is in an unusual place. Above the horn is an capacitor to reduce noise in your electrical system. It looks like the voltage regulator is beside the capacitor (it is probably bad being so old)
2. Fan cage - pulls air from the outside louvers and pushes it to the heater under the dashboard. There is a resistor there which makes it a two speed fan.
3. No idea what this is...
4. Power steering reservoir - although in your case probably the hydraulic pump for the plow. Follow the hoses from the pump and the reservoir to see where they go.
5. some sort of carb heater - looks like it runs from the exhaust manifold up - with a flexible hose to the air intake

 

[John Smith]

Yeah i think ill get a few things. Maybe also one ambulance door as mine is pretty badly beaten. But i try to weld it up. Its the second time im welding something so i need to practice a lot still. So many things coming together. Hours of watching explanatory videos. I feel ready to start now, time to get the materials. Im definitely going to acid dip the car and let it be coated there directly with Cathodic dip painting procedure. I think it gets a really good protective finish to all the tiniest gaps in the car.

Im continuing to strip the car. I think im making good progress. Also got new tools now and a proper tool drawer thing.

I started to do compression tests but couldn't finish since the booster is to weak and takes 24hours to charge so i only can do 1-2 at a charge. I got following numbers:

1. 97 psi
2. 89 psi
3. 87 psi
4. 80 psi
(will finish later today)
5 and six are yet to come thats why i only did attach 5 plugs as image. overall the plugs look old some even rusty, im a bit afraid to turn on the car again with these plugs as i fear there could have gone some rust inside the chambers while removing the plugs. Generally i would say except for number 2 they are not burning to fat. i would say something in between carbon deposits and oil deposits. but it was sitting for so long and im not sure how to correctly interpret them. It was firing up quite fast so i think its not really that big of an issue but i wonder what you all have to say?

Next i have a question on how you guys would get familiar with the engine room. I bought this hayes guide but it is not what i expected. I cant find for example number 3 in my attached picture. Im struggling to find out how to understand what is what. Ive attached a image on some questions i have. 5. there are huge clips but i have no idea for what they were used once. Would love to get some help from you guys on this.

Cheers

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1 = Aftermarket horn added. It looks like you are missing both stock horns that attach to the side of the radiator bracket.
2 = Heater blower motor
3 = No idea what this thing is. But it is not stock.
4 = Power steering fluid reservoir
5 = Hot Air Intake or HAI for carb. It attaches to the bottom of the air intake horn.

 

[45Dougal]

I think 2 people have made the same mistake that I made for number 5 - this points to the clips on the side of the intake, not the warm air hose beneath if I understand correctly now.

What are the hoses that clip in there?

 

[45Dougal]

Got to check the wiring and connections then.

I have the weirdest compression readings. After charging the booster i continued, chamber 6 gives me 120 psi. So i was suspicious and redid number 3 and 4 and they are both 10 psi higher. I dont get it but it looks like the compression test are from 90 psi up to 120 psi.

1. 97
2. 89
3. 97
4. 90
5. 103
6. 120
(What to make of it?)

Possibly just a function of the engine spinning faster with the newly charged booster pack?
Maybe worth checking your valve clearances to see if they're contributing any leakage

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Possibly just a function of the engine spinning faster with the newly charged booster pack?
Maybe worth checking your valve clearances to see if they're contributing any leakage

Okay i will definitely check the valves because and change both gaskets. The thing is when i have her out i could also bring her to a pro if its needed but i figured 62k kilometers is so little this engine must be fine. Will get new plugs for sure then i have a better image after driving for some time.

I figured out number 3. its a reservoir of the hydraulic pump mechanism for the plow. Finally something i can toss which will give me some room in there.

But why are there two horns? I have one on the left top where the number is but also one on the bottom right? I must check but it sounds like they both are working and simultaneously triggered.

 

[45Dougal]

Ahh that makes sense, maybe useful to someone somewhere.
Maybe one horn was in the way of the plough installation and so it got moved?

 

[John Smith]

The clips in #5 were to hold the air hose from the smog pump to the air filter housing. The hose sucked clean air and injected it into the rail on the head. Your engine has been partially de-smogged and you are missing the rail and probably the smog pump also.

 

[tlaporte]

But why are there two horns? I have one on the left top where the number is but also one on the bottom right? I must check but it sounds like they both are working and simultaneously triggered.

It’s for tone, one is “high” and one is “low.”

 

[45Dougal]

The clips in #5 were to hold the air hose from the smog pump to the air filter housing. The hose sucked clean air and injected it into the rail on the head. Your engine has been partially de-smogged and you are missing the rail and probably the smog pump also.

Did Swiss trucks have the smog kit originally or was this an import?

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Did Swiss trucks have the smog kit originally or was this an import?

I am actually not sure. But given the fact that Switzerland always had very strict requirements it could well be it is original.

Im still just dismantling. Rusty screws take a lot of time haha but its very rewarding work. Also i got some screw kits so i can immediately replace the old screws and bag the parts with the new screws so i get some sort of overview.

Attached are the latest pics.

I wonder now two things. Should an alternator this age be replaced or not? I feel like everything was working more or less. Then i took out the VSVs and im not sure if they are still working, any ideas how to test? I saw a video on a corolla where they used 9volt batteries to see if it is clicking not sure if this would work here too.

In general im just trying to dismantle it in a way i can figure out how to assemble it again

 

[45Dougal]

You can try and suck with your mouth through the VSV and see what happens when you apply power. They usually open under power.

The main thing to wear out on your alternator is the bearings - check for free play in the shaft, and roughness /drag when you spin it. If in doubt, replace the bearings.

 

[RevISK]

This is fun, appreciate you sharing.

Your top and rain gutter look to be in really good shape. I’d avoid dismantling that if possible and see if you can clean up the rust. For sure remove and replace the sealant though.

 

[OlYellr]

For consideration if your not already… when I replace bolts/screws on my 40, I put anti-seize on

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

You can try and suck with your mouth through the VSV and see what happens when you apply power. They usually open under power.

The main thing to wear out on your alternator is the bearings - check for free play in the shaft, and roughness /drag when you spin it. If in doubt, replace the bearings.

Ok thx i will try this! Im a complete noob when it comes to applying power not sure what i would need, because i just unhooked all things like voltage regulator and so on. So im not sure how to try this. Anyways i also need to find out how to run the motor just stripped down with a switch. Not yet started to dig into it.

Yesterday i stripped the wiper and the whole motor looks quite rusty so i also need to check if it is functioning before i start to clean it up properly. any advice would be greatly appreciated.

This is fun, appreciate you sharing.

Your top and rain gutter look to be in really good shape. I’d avoid dismantling that if possible and see if you can clean up the rust. For sure remove and replace the sealant though.

Thanks
I ordered a mobile sandblaster, for many woody things around the house. i figured i try to blast the rust with it. maybe i reach the difficult spots. i would really like to not take the whole thing apart. because there is a lot to do

Ive added some updates. What i wonder is next to the plate with the ID there is some thick weld looking like substance. But in fact its something white brittle thing. Any idea what this is and if its stock? Because i figured when i weld some new parts together i damage these sealings in a couple places.

Then i have a rusty bolt in the cylinder head. Really rusty thread. Not sure what to make of it.

Next thing i wonder is how to get the exact service manual. I feel like this swiss edition is somewhat different. Haynes said to have my year of the car but its just not exactly the same as i see when checking the vacuum lines.

Looking forward to go to the garage again to work on the car.

 

[45Dougal]

The white bead is a Seam Sealer - its a PU sealant used to stop moisture getting into spot welded joints.

The toyota manuals are generally best and are all linked to on here somewhere - download the ones you need.

Chassis manual is the main one and includes electrical diagrams, and then your engine specific one.

Cylinder head bolt leaked to water jacket?

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

The white bead is a Seam Sealer - its a PU sealant used to stop moisture getting into spot welded joints.

The toyota manuals are generally best and are all linked to on here somewhere - download the ones you need.

Chassis manual is the main one and includes electrical diagrams, and then your engine specific one.

Cylinder head bolt leaked to water jacket?

Thanks sir! so i will reseal but im not sure in what order because i plan to dip all the parts. Cathodic Dip Painting. So i believe i cant get to the car after the acid bath and before the dipping. Maybe it will stick to the surface but thats a future me problem.

I got in contact with the local toyota dealers also considering the parts i need. i really hope they have some stock in Europe.

Still dismantling. Electrics i will move to as soon as i got the chassis away from the frame and all the other things out of the garage for treatment.

Frame will be probably hot-dip galvanized. I read its quite good and long lasting. And then i powder coat it. Does anyone have some experience? Is it a good method?

If its leaked to the water jacket im not sure yet i will pull the motor out in a few days but then i am not sure on where to put it or how to put it down. Im thinking of getting a Stand but im currently not sure if its really needed. But im worried about the thread as its so rusty and its in the motor block.

Added some pictures. Got some bolts by mail and the sheet metal to weld 16 GA Steel. And a ultrasonic bath. Hope it cleans the precious parts well

As always i would greatly appreciate if my ideas flawed.

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

A lot was going on lately Finally the tub is of. Attached are some images of the progress.

I do think i need to replace the rear of the frame (see image). And saw that there are all the parts available by BTB Prod Home - BTB Products - Land Cruiser Restoration and Parts - https://btbprod.com/ I think i will buy this set. Saw it in this thread: FJ40 Chassis rust question - with pics - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-chassis-rust-question-with-pics.1204328/post-13040313

I think the transimmsion is leaking as well and it also looks all smeary in the section next to the engine. Starter is also all oily.

Im currently in search of the belts for the tank. Also considering making them myself but haven found the right material yet. Any tips on how to get the gum rust free, i have some rust removal sprays but they attack the surface. But i cant find new gums as well. Not quite sure yet how to go about it.

Ultrasonic bath died after 10 mins of usage... great product... awaiting replacement.

And one last question for now. Are these rings welded onto the frame? I hammer like an idiot but cant get them off... Ill add the pics in the next post.

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Progress.

Whats your thought on the frame?

 

[45Dougal]

Is there some serious rust on the frame? Maybe I'm missing something, but just looks like surface rust where I'm looking!

Removing rust from the rubber strap pads you mean? Just scrape it off, or maybe soak in a light acid like vinegar perhaps?