First Time Pig "Build" (1 Viewer)

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Definitely not the dude...... :lol:

I also second going to the later FJ60 parts from Georg and Dan. Can't go wrong and parts for them are available new and used all day long from many different suppliers.

And I can't stand the Warns. It's such a shame Toyota had to bend over to the US govt in the 70's and install those pieces of junk on the Land Cruiser.

Definitely replace the soft lines Chris. Depending on how the hard lines are on inspection, you might be able to get some new from Toyota, or get generic lines and flare them yourself using metric M10-1.0 stainless fittings.

They way this is going Chris, you are going to go full on, blow-out restoration.....

:) This would not surprise me. ;)
 
Fireman said:
Not sure, I rechecked cl but couldn't find them. Maybe eBay.
Click to expand...

Hahaha.

I have so many variations of automated search push notifications on eBay, that I don't think there's anything in the world that list for LCs that doesn't light my phone up.

Have to be quick, though.

80 Series NIB (what it said) power steering gear box popped up with a "buy it now" price of $330, and was sold before I could navigate through the 52,000 wheel listings that result, too.

There are two sellers, one with eBay store, that have a great selection of new, used, rebuilt parts and hard to find items, as they claim, for "vintage" Cruiser's.

Can't help but think they're a vendor, or connected to Mud, somehow.
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
don't bother unless you're going for a full correct resto.
Click to expand...

But it'd only be correct for a 76-78 Pig anyway, right?

Have no clue what brand are on there, since there's no markings, but they're some kind of replacement, I believe, since cant find any similar in any Mud perusals.

image-2084331200.jpg

Here's the dumb question of the hour.

Does "long bodied" have any bearing on the distance from hub face to the outer hub cap?

image-2084331200.jpg
 
beno said:
:) This would not surprise me. ;)
Click to expand...

As it shouldn't, considering your instrumental role in the other project, being a complete mechanical restoration of a vehicle that really didn't need it.

I love this.

Have succumbed to doing it right, as period correct and OE as possible, with changes being Toyota and rationale to improve the driving/safety aspect (PS, Brakes, AC what will be adds), and looks like that'll be taking it down to the frame.

I have no idea what I'm doing and ignorance is bliss.

Hahahaha.
 
IIUC, all front ends were full time till 76, so there are no correct hubs for earlier. those look alot like the warns I pulled off the drum brake axle I got. maybe milemarker? I believe the hub caps are different betwixt locking hubbed and full time axles, check SOR...
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
I believe the hub caps are different betwixt locking hubbed and full time axles, check SOR...
Click to expand...

I got it now. Makes a lot if sense, considering the lack of available info on the hubs for the older years.

And the difference would probably be denoted in a long or short bodied hub, then.

Got the wheels sitting in OKC but wasn't certain on caps. Seems the best way to address, from a feasibility standpoint, is get caps for short bodied.

Doubt I'll loose a fair entry over, since the model years didn't have selectable anyway, and don't see a reason to not change to selectable, from a moving parts/longevity standpoint.
 
Delancy said:
I got it now. Makes a lot if sense, considering the lack of available info on the hubs for the older years.

And the difference would probably be denoted in a long or short bodied hub, then.

Got the wheels sitting in OKC but wasn't certain on caps. Seems the best way to address, from a feasibility standpoint, is get caps for short bodied.

Doubt I'll loose a fair entry over, since the model years didn't have selectable anyway, and don't see a reason to not change to selectable, from a moving parts/longevity standpoint.
Click to expand...

I'd buy that;) who wants to steer thru the spinning birfs while driving down the road, anyway?
 
all Land Cruisers came with full time hubs from Japan up to ... 78, i believe. these were dealer installed parts.
the full time hubs would allow for full moon caps to be installed, part time then you got the hole.

i wonder what the JDM hubs were back then, i can't remember.
 
You want to go 60 over mini disks to get the vented rotors as opposed to solid, the advise was most likely to go to the later "V6" mini calipers and rotors which were vented and bigger. The difference between long and short bodied hubs is the body barrel, being longer to accommodate the longer birfield stub. The face and dial are exactly the same for both, other than Asco changing its company name to Aisin and the dial changing to reflect (as did the water pump). Keep in mind Aisin Seiki (ASCO) is not the same company as Aisan who makes carburetors.

All Land Cruisers came from the factory with drive plates (think 80) pre-'76, when the 55 came with the Asco's for the first time, 40s never got these until they went to short bodied in '79 branded Aisin. Any Dualmatic/Montgomery Ward/Sears/Selectro/Warn was a dealer add on -

Tucker
 
Good info, Tucker. Thanks.

I didn't understand the naming until just now and understand why the search has been futile, due to.

Haven't priced them out elsewhere, but it'll be hard to not leave Cruiser Corps tomorrow or Tuesday when picking up wheels (probably caps, gasket "kit" and hopefully checking out needed body parts) with these.

image-2292219691.jpg

Doesn't show compatible with models beyond 40/45, but can't see why they won't work.

image-2292219691.jpg
 
Delancy said:
d ATTACH]773066[/ATTACH]

Doesn't show compatible with models beyond 40/45, but can't see why they won't work.
Click to expand...

Well, check to see if they're fine spline or course spline...
 
Now, I'm confused but in fairness, it's Monday.

FromCruiser Outfitter's website.

Quote and posting for reference.

"Axle Specifications

Spline Count & Outside Diameter At Differential:
58' - 67' - 40 Series Front & Rear - 10 spline (course), 33mm/1.31"
68' - 97' - 40/55/61/62/80 Front & Rear - 30 spline (fine), 33mm/1.31"
98' - 06' - 100 Series Front - 30 spline (fine), 33mm/1.31"

Spline Count & Outside Diameter At Birfield Joint:
58' - 68' - No birf, Ball & Claw Style Joint
68' - 97' - 40/55/61/62/80 - 27 spline

Birfield Joint Renditions:
68 - 9/75 - Course Spline, drum brake, small shell.
9/75 - 1/79 - Fine Spline, disc brake, small shell, longer than later 79-90 birfs.
1/79 - 1/90 - Fine Spline, disc brake, larger shell, shorter than 76-79 birfs.
1/90-97 - Fine Spline, disc brake, largest shell, available with ABS toner ring.
Spline Count & Outside Diameter At Locking Hub/Hub Flange):
58' - 9/75' - 40/55 Series Front & Rear - ? spline (course)
68' - 97' - 40/55/61/62/80 Front & Rear - ? spline (fine)

Steering Arm Bolt Pattern & Shim Dimensions:

Small Pattern (E-1/79' 40/55 Series)
46 mm x 30 mm, 11 mm stud

Large Pattern (1/79'-1/90' 40/55/60/70 Series & 79'-85' PU & 4Runner)
55 mm x 30 mm, 12 mm stud

Knuckle Stud Thread & Pitch Dimensions:

Small Pattern Knuckle
Stud to Knuckle Casting - 11 mm x 1.25
Top thread (Nut Thread) - 11 mm x 1.00

Large Pattern Knuckle
Stud to Knuckle Casting - 12 mm x 1.25
Top thread (Nut Thread) - 12 mm x 1.00

Inner Axle Lengths (without birf attached, measured from end to end):

40/55/70 Series Drivers Side: 29.00"
40/55/70 Series Passenger Side: 17.25"
60/62 Series Drivers Side: 31.5"
60/62 Series Passenger Side: 17.25"
80 Series Drivers Side: 34.125"
80 Series Passenger Side: 17.75"
PU/4Runner (Solid Axle) Drivers Side: 31.5"
PU/4Runner (Solid Axle) Pass. Side: 15.375"

Inner Axle Lengths WITH Birfield Joint Attatched

40/55 68'-9/75' Drum Axle Drivers Side ?
40/55 68'-9/75' Drum Axle Pass. Side ?
40/55 9/75'-1/79' Disc Axle Drivers Side ?
40/55 9/75'-1/79' Disc Axle Pass. Side ?
40/55 1/79'-83' Disc Axle Drivers Side ?
40/55 1/79'-83' Disc Axle Pass. Side ?
60/62 80-1/90' Disc Axle Drivers Side ?
60/62 80-1/90' Disc Axle Pass. Side ?
70 80-1/90' Disc Axle Drivers Side ?
70 80-1/90' Disc Axle Pass. Side ?
80 1/90-97' Disc Axle Drivers Side ?
80 1/90-97' Disc Axle Pass. Side ?
PU/4Runner (Solid Axle) Drivers Side ?
PU/4Runner (Solid Axle) Pass. Side ?

Birfield Joint Lengths (overall length of birfield, end to end)
80 Series W/ABS Tone Ring "Short" style 246 mm
80 Series W/ABS Tone Ring "Long" style 251 mm

Front Axle WMS Widths (Wheel Mating Surface to Wheel Mating Surface)
40/55 Series - 55"/57" (will be test measureing in the coming weeks)
PU/4Runner - 55.5"
60/62 Series - 58.5"/60" (will be test measureing in the coming weeks)
80 Series - 63.5"

MORE COMING SOON!

*See something missing, wrong, or incomplete? Please let us know! "

- End quote

The CC page doesn't stipulate coarse or fine, but states "30 Spline"....which would elude a fine 27 spline birf, therefore compatible with 60 series fine spline birf.


image-3648402323.jpg

Now, the rub is, I don't recall if swapping to 60 birfs was ever a consideration. It's not a wheeler (as of now), so trail spare continuity may not be a huge concern, but guess the question is, how's it possible to find a coarse splined lock out if the only available at that time were domestic dealer adds?

image-3648402323.jpg
 
All that space on the server for nothing.

Quote-

" hey chris.
thanks for the email, sorry about not responding sooner, just getting home from rubithon. the knuckles come with the FJ60 birfs and aisan hubs of course. and they'll be in great shape.
hth
georg @ valley hybrids"

End quote.

On to the next one.....
 
Ha ha, You should have Georgoolled first, kinda like Google but with more Cruiser knowledge
 
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