- Thread starter
- #21
Done!
Is it like Fight Club? First Rule of Landcruisers is .. We do NOT call them FJs?
First time Females and FJs
- Thread starter sarca
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Is it like Fight Club? First Rule of Landcruisers is .. We do NOT call them FJs?
- Thread starter
- #22
76 FJ40
Here's what we see..tell me how we did -
Slightly misshaped over right rear wheel well - bondo? Tub looks good..scratch dents...what am I missing? (going to figure out photobucket password for sharing more)
Here's what we see..tell me how we did -
Slightly misshaped over right rear wheel well - bondo? Tub looks good..scratch dents...what am I missing? (going to figure out photobucket password for sharing more)
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- Thread starter
- #23
Here's the rest of em
Flickr: sarca30's Photostream
Flickr: sarca30's Photostream
Not a bad looking early 76 FJ40.
Looks like its got the original wheels and hubcaps, which are suprisingly hard to find.
The wheel well arches were likely cut to clearance larger tires. Nothing really wrong with that unless you are looking for something all original.
The carb is a non stock unit (I am thinking its a Holley or Rochester). Emissions may be trickey if you have emissions testing where you live.
Looks like its got the original wheels and hubcaps, which are suprisingly hard to find.
The wheel well arches were likely cut to clearance larger tires. Nothing really wrong with that unless you are looking for something all original.
The carb is a non stock unit (I am thinking its a Holley or Rochester). Emissions may be trickey if you have emissions testing where you live.
If you just bought this 76....Then I'd say, looking at it from this long distance, that it looks like you did pretty well Sarca....
And to me it's perfectly OK to call it simply "an FJ".
(I'd always assume an FJ to be an FJ40 because I never have any other landcruiser series on my mind.)
And to me it's perfectly OK to call it simply "an FJ".
(I'd always assume an FJ to be an FJ40 because I never have any other landcruiser series on my mind.
)
- Thread starter
- #26
Emission Inspections in North Carolina? Im not even sure you are required to have a drivers license in this state LoL
But seriously -any FJ40 doesnt have to worry...if its 35 years or more, it doesnt need a safety inspection. Or at least thats what the interwebs tell me..
But seriously -any FJ40 doesnt have to worry...if its 35 years or more, it doesnt need a safety inspection. Or at least thats what the interwebs tell me..
Thank you.
Yeah, the 35+yrs old thing here in NC is great. The '76 looks good in pics. I spent over 1-year looking (25+ wanting) and missed some good ones but have no worries since one eventually landed almost on my doorstep. I agree with the folks who say frame/body is important. 2F's can be had for decent money if you feel the need (and we have a great guy in Fayetteville to build/install them) but a well done 350 can work nicely. I look at mine now as a great excuse for not buying the ones I passed on or missed. I look forward to meeting you on Saturday - I'll be in the green & black 40 with the 350.
--john
--john
Not too bad, if the frame is solid and the mechanicals are in good shape. It appears to have pretty standard issues for these trucks. How much is he asking for it?
By the way, you'll get real mechanical experience owning an old 40.
By the way, you'll get real mechanical experience owning an old 40.
In the old days, it WAS fine to refer to your LandCruiser as an FJ. But then Toyota came out with the FJ Cruiser and spoiled it for us. Now we use the model number when we need to abbreviate.
Nice looking 40, BTW.
Nice looking 40, BTW.
I think it really depends on what you think your skills are (or will be) and the place you have to work. For instance, if tearing apart a motor sounds exciting, but welding or fixing rust keeps you awake at night, then you know what to look for. (ended a sentence with a preposition - hope the grammar police aren't out). I'm not sure I could get excited about tearing a motor down without a garage... stuff like that.
Biggest piece of advice - get something you can drive and enjoy. My dad found one for me, my wife bought it for my 40th, and we are 3 years down the road, and I am only just now getting to the point where I think it might be on the highway in the next couple weeks. The restoration has been fun - priceless time with dad, but it has been long long long.
Biggest piece of advice - get something you can drive and enjoy. My dad found one for me, my wife bought it for my 40th, and we are 3 years down the road, and I am only just now getting to the point where I think it might be on the highway in the next couple weeks. The restoration has been fun - priceless time with dad, but it has been long long long.
- Thread starter
- #32
Well if this FJ40 guy gets with me, we'll be debating whether to come see ya'll before or after purchase..Either way - it all works out exactly the way it should!!
Welcome.....you can call it whatever you want......Just dont call it a jeep 
Good luck!
Good luck!
First impressions:
1. Decent tub, but no good shot of the rear sill and corners where there are the most likely spots for rust through. The windshield hinges are missing the mounting screws, most likely because the hinges are rusted and he had to remove the frame to get the door pins out.
2. surface rust on the underside of front fenders; though an angle grinder with a wire wheel will likely fix it.
3. He has the doors turned around so you cant't see the almost guaranteed rust through at the bottoms.
4. Rear fender bent in from tire self clearancing i.e. flexing it out. It also looks like it may have scraped something on that side as well.
5. Bring a magnet or 2 and run it along the top of the rear fenders, the rear sill and the rear lower corners. also look in the rear wheel well for bondo oozing through the holes or hammer denting to make allow the bondo to be smooth and take out the rust bubbles that grow between the body seam welds. This is also common between the rear inner wheel well and the body above the rear tire.
6. Front cowl vent (in front of the windshield) looks to be bent up. This is also a spot prone to rusting out under the cowl vent.
7. Top of tub shows a decent rust spot above the license plate in pic 76.8.
8. Hard top looks OK, but where are the rear doors? are also likely rusted through at the bottoms.
9. Brake master cylinder is very rusty and could indicate rust elsewhere in the brake system.
10. check the knuckles for grease/gear oil leakage and the rear drums and tires for signs of brake fluid leakage. the latter happens when the brake cylinder seals go bad and the fluid leaks down the drum and leaves drip marks on the tires. It doesn't take long for this to be apparent.
Top tip: Check out the brake bleeder nipples on the brakes there should be one on each front disk caliper and two on each rear wheel drum plate (I believe 76's had two brake cylinders per wheel in the rear). When you look at them, check to see that they aren't rusted to the threads, are clogged with mud or look like rusty nubs. This will indicate they likely never serviced the brakes and you are in for a not so fun job as they usually rust weld themselves to the cylinders and round off or snap off when you try to loosen them.
All in all a decent looking truck body-wise that seems to only need some sanding, spot rust repair and some primer and paint.
If the engine runs well, it could be a good truck. Get a compression check and listen to the idle speed to make sure they didn't bump it up just to get it to run smooth.
What is the asking price?
1. Decent tub, but no good shot of the rear sill and corners where there are the most likely spots for rust through. The windshield hinges are missing the mounting screws, most likely because the hinges are rusted and he had to remove the frame to get the door pins out.
2. surface rust on the underside of front fenders; though an angle grinder with a wire wheel will likely fix it.
3. He has the doors turned around so you cant't see the almost guaranteed rust through at the bottoms.
4. Rear fender bent in from tire self clearancing i.e. flexing it out. It also looks like it may have scraped something on that side as well.
5. Bring a magnet or 2 and run it along the top of the rear fenders, the rear sill and the rear lower corners. also look in the rear wheel well for bondo oozing through the holes or hammer denting to make allow the bondo to be smooth and take out the rust bubbles that grow between the body seam welds. This is also common between the rear inner wheel well and the body above the rear tire.
6. Front cowl vent (in front of the windshield) looks to be bent up. This is also a spot prone to rusting out under the cowl vent.
7. Top of tub shows a decent rust spot above the license plate in pic 76.8.
8. Hard top looks OK, but where are the rear doors? are also likely rusted through at the bottoms.
9. Brake master cylinder is very rusty and could indicate rust elsewhere in the brake system.
10. check the knuckles for grease/gear oil leakage and the rear drums and tires for signs of brake fluid leakage. the latter happens when the brake cylinder seals go bad and the fluid leaks down the drum and leaves drip marks on the tires. It doesn't take long for this to be apparent.
Top tip: Check out the brake bleeder nipples on the brakes there should be one on each front disk caliper and two on each rear wheel drum plate (I believe 76's had two brake cylinders per wheel in the rear). When you look at them, check to see that they aren't rusted to the threads, are clogged with mud or look like rusty nubs. This will indicate they likely never serviced the brakes and you are in for a not so fun job as they usually rust weld themselves to the cylinders and round off or snap off when you try to loosen them.
All in all a decent looking truck body-wise that seems to only need some sanding, spot rust repair and some primer and paint.
If the engine runs well, it could be a good truck. Get a compression check and listen to the idle speed to make sure they didn't bump it up just to get it to run smooth.
What is the asking price?
- Thread starter
- #35
He's asking $7K
Oh, as a matter of course, you should drain and replace ALL fluids ASAP after getting it home. I would also look to bleed and change brake and clutch fluid. Also look into replacing the rear brake cylinders and check the front pads and rotors for wear/rust and be ready to at least change the front brake pads and possibly, the rear drum shoes.
seems high, especially if the doors are rusted and the things I pointed out are actual issues.
Maybe $5k, if all is good and the underside doesn't look like someone spayed engine oil all over it, usually from the rear main seal between the engine and the transmission. There is a plug on the underside of the fly wheel cover under the truck. Pull it and if oil oozes out or you stick your finger in and it is really greasy this means the seal is leaking and needs replacement. his is not a job for the noob mechanic without the right tools.
All of these are all bargaining points and not necessarily show stoppers... I ran mine with a leaky rear main for 4 years before pulling the trans.
Maybe $5k, if all is good and the underside doesn't look like someone spayed engine oil all over it, usually from the rear main seal between the engine and the transmission. There is a plug on the underside of the fly wheel cover under the truck. Pull it and if oil oozes out or you stick your finger in and it is really greasy this means the seal is leaking and needs replacement. his is not a job for the noob mechanic without the right tools.
All of these are all bargaining points and not necessarily show stoppers... I ran mine with a leaky rear main for 4 years before pulling the trans.
Hello SARCA...welcome to the forum. Looks pretty clean, Stumpalama brought out very good points. I also think the asking price is a little too steep, but if it is in your budget and with the amount of mechanical experience you and you husband have, it might be a good start. These vechicles arent getting younger and are harder to find each day.... most of all, enjoy your search for the 40 that fits you best. Being on the East coast, you may run into quite a few that are rust ridden, be patient. Craigs list, Mud, Pirate, Ebay, put a search in, when one pops up, you'll be the first to know. Be adventurous, and be prepared for a road trip to get your first Cruiser. Have fun and be patient, the one you pass up may be a blessing when you stumble on the next one!!
Hi All:
Welcome aboard Sarca!
I would definitely consider buying the best rig you can find versus the cheapest.
Do look out for rust and bondo (fresh paint jobs are a warning sign) but also that upgrades were done well and/or correctly.
Some upgrades can be easily and cheaply done, others not. Body tub repair/replacement is involved and expensive.
Don't hesitate to post up or "PM" if you have any questions.
Good luck!
Alan
Welcome aboard Sarca!
I would definitely consider buying the best rig you can find versus the cheapest.
Do look out for rust and bondo (fresh paint jobs are a warning sign) but also that upgrades were done well and/or correctly.
Some upgrades can be easily and cheaply done, others not. Body tub repair/replacement is involved and expensive.
Don't hesitate to post up or "PM" if you have any questions.
Good luck!
Alan
I decided to start this thread to document my personal FJ40 journey..so here's the 'skinny'. Im 40, happily married a retired Navy corpsman with a daughter. I have NO real mechanical experience. My only on hand experience for what Im undertaking is driving POS cars for many many years. I know when a car sounds right, and I know when it sounds wrong..especially if I turn the radio down!As a female, you guys have got to know, I may not necessarily come to a conclusion the same way you do..but Ive got common sense and Im hard headed as hell.
Why do I want an FJ40? Metaphorically - I understand them. They bulky in all the right places, theyre tough and yet beautiful they take a licking and keep on going. Theyre stubborn and faithful. Theyre cranky on cold mornings.. In other words...they remind me..of me!
Im an old school tomboy, grew up fishing and hunting. I own my own weapons and I take pride in being self sufficient. So an FJ40 seems a reasonable choice..I learn anything easily and Im excellent at figuring things out. I need a hobby .. why not an FJ40? Jeeps are a dime a dozen. There's just something about FJs.
So as a woman, with no true experience - it might seem daunting to knowingly sign up for such an endeavor.
Join me. Ask questions. Share my search for MY FJ40 as I learn - and if youre a woman and interested - maybe what I learn along the way will help you. And if youre a man with a wife that doesnt get your FJ obssession ...well maybe Ill be able to help sway her opinion!
Ive always admired the FJ40 in particular..there arent too many around the coast of NC - but I saw a shiny red one with a white hardtop sitting in Swansboro and everytime I drove by, I could almost hear her telling me to pull over.
By the time I convinced myself to stop and look she was gone. Who knows? Up close she mightve been a bondo buggy with a crappy paint job..but in my mind..this old FJ was perfect.
So I started reading. Skulking around this forum..asking my well versed in mechanical knowledge husband random questions..."What do you think of those old landcruisers?"
Poor guy, he never saw it coming.
I finally joined this forum - (paid membership) started asking questions.. and found out how much in love with LC's you all are.
Here's where Im at. Im too much of a noob to do a complete restoration. The first FJ40 we looked at, my husband pointed out the almost completely crushed crossmembers on the frame. (Once you see really bad, you can recognize 'good') When the huz showed this to me, I immediately referenced this forum - and found what the frame SHOULD look like.
Ive learned from this that a solid frame is non negotiable. We cannot weld at my house.
I do not have a garage. So doing a complete rebuild of an FJ40 is out of the question.
A shiny paintjob is not even ON my list. A completely restored FJ40 is out of my price range, and Id be afraid of ever parking it anywhere and getting door dinged.
I want an FJ or BJ40 series that I can throw my gear in and go to the range.
I want an FJ40 that I can teach my daughter to drive stick in..just like I did...so when she gets older, she can drive just about anything..and fix it too.
I want an FJ40 that we can throw our dogs in and go camping or to put our tiny little boat in water.
The 2nd FJ40 I went to see was a complete rust ridden body..One of the ONSC guys actually met up with us to go see it. The frame looked pretty good? But again, way outside of what Id be capable of handling.
I spend a lot of my time looking for an FJ40, reading about them and discussing what Ive read, watched on youtube and discussed with mudders - with my poor patient husband. Luckily he loves talking about engines..and for once he gets to share his knowledge without me rolling my eyes.
Ive been researching why I would or would not want to do a power steering conversion on an older FJ (decided I would not)
Determining whether or not I would want a disc brake conversion (I would, and we'd do it ourselves)
Do I want to buy an FJ40 with a non toyota engine in it? (No)
Looking at other guys builds, what they encountered because it all factors in and plays a roll for me in my search..Finally read all the FAQs..well not ALL of them..
So this is probably the most Ill ever write in one sitting..Sorry if its too much. . Thats what happens when you let THIS woman get ta' talking..Help me find my first FJ40!
Cool thread! My gf learned how to drive a stick in my fj40, but I feel like I lucked out in that the gf drives a scion XB and I drive an fj40 and when the two are parked next to each other it is an obvious his/hers combo lol.
Good luck on your search, I flew half way across the country for mine and drove it home after searching for a year.
Good luck on your search, I flew half way across the country for mine and drove it home after searching for a year.
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