First FJ40 build in a long time (5 Viewers)

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I see. That is a brandy new part made by Trail Gear. Good to know it's available. Oh, and it's $20 less than Toyota OEM.

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Here's the first brake line I've made to replace the crap Custom Tube sent me. Some of their stuff worked but none of it without manhandling them first.
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Okay. Back to the flat pitman arm. Turns out that without a warning, you can mount the steering box juuuust a little high... And not even know it. Turns out that there isn't enough clearance for the TRE threaded shaft and nut on the top side of the arm. So off it comes and get out the torch and BFH. I little bend is in order. I felt the steering box mounting bolts were a tad low when I sat the 60 box on the frame. So I used a small spacer that was laying around (I don't even remember what it was. Cardboard maybe) and clamped and drilled there. So of anyone is following this idea and manages to read here, be careful and pay attention to the hight and angle of the box mount. Just the slightest angle change and I wouldn't have to bend the arm. I've already made clearance in the fender, radiator cradle and the radiator mounting flange at the bottom. All needed some surgery.
 
I've been a little AWOL but hope this next week is more productive. Two things; I've started taking on a new project of supplying brake line kits "that actually fit" and setting that up has taken some attention off of the 40 build. I also have taken on a part time job to help the income a bit. Posting here will help me keep my attention where it belongs... On the Kennedy's truck. So here's where she sits today. A pile of rubber hoses hooked up in all the right places, the right stinkin' bolts for assembling the intake/exhaust/carb and a few other goodies and I'll crank it up. Wish me luck and the time to replace what luck doesn't fall my way.

Oh yeah... And finish cleaning up the distributer. That will help.

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WOOHOO!! My @Coolerman chassis harness showed up today. Thanks Mark. Now if I can just figure out what's what... Two big plugs are the beginning. Check...
..... ... . . ..................

So much to do and and it's giving me a case of A.D.D.!
The wife heads out of town for 10 days late next week. Maybe I'll be spending the nights in the barn.
 
WOOHOO!! My @Coolerman chassis harness showed up today. Thanks Mark. Now if I can just figure out what's what... Two big plugs are the beginning. Check...
..... ... . . ..................

So much to do and and it's giving me a case of A.D.D.!
The wife heads out of town for 10 days late next week. Maybe I'll be spending the nights in the barn.


You can borrow mine. It is labeled and should be close. I want to see pics of how Mark did your harness!


...via IH8MUD app
 
Two steps forward and one step back. That seams to be the norm lately. The things holding me up:

Almost complete with removing the heat riser assembly. All I need to do is plug the holes. Two plugs: Check! Wrong size. Too small. Okay, I've got the next size up. Check! I have the pipe thread tap, the plugs, the drill bits to get me there annnnnndddd, no tapered reamer bit for that size. Order on line and the next day get an email that says the order didn't go through.

Distributer is in great condition but only one problem. No rotor. Go to NAPA and find they can order it for 9 bucks plus 15 bucks for shipping. NO!

The other issue is my brake line biz I'm trying to get off the ground has demanded my time, money, and attention. And now the owner of the truck starts to get all anxious because the weather is so nice.

I WILL got this truck done. I WILL!

eventually...
 
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I have noticed that (and on my two 40's as well) that the two small front extensions on the chassis where the bumper bolts onto are always in a bad start of rust wear. The very front rails can be in pretty good condition but those two pieces always seem to have a lot of damage?
 
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FINALLY. Something to post.

I just got all the right tools and time and everything else together all on the same day and right when all the planets were aligned and behold! Manifolds are on. Here's what I went through and just in case you want to see how I did it. (I'm sorry if there's a thread on this already. I'm not up to looking and it's part of my build so here goes: (long post)

This is how I took care of the heat riser and it's removal on my build. The two bolts holding the flapper are just tack welded on. A little Dremmel action ad poof.


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Remove the bolts and simply lift out the plate exposing the shaft.
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Nothing to it. The shaft and all the external hardware just slides out. (at least it did on mine.)
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Next.

Pulled the bushings out of the casting because trying to put in 3/8th plugs, the drill ended up rotating the bushing in place. So out they come with a puller.
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Then I tapered the hole. Not the one you see in the picture but the smaller diameter hole about an inch down inside. That made the bushing have to come out the top.
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Then being very careful (as with the taper) not to go too far with either one and make the receiving hole too big.
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With fingers crossed in the first hole, I placed the plug in and only had to go back with the tap one extra time to get the right depth and knew haw far to go on the other side the first time.
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Last steps on the next post...
 
This is how it looks inside and out after installing.
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I got carried away and put the assembly together before I thought to shoot that and the gasket.

If you plan to do the same on your truck, I have a spare gasket.
 
Torque Rod Bracket. Boy oh boy do I need one! Anybody have one or a source? Posted in the WTBs and not much.

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Okay, I couldn't stand it any longer. I'll have to remount a few things inside but not having the top on and having the interior get dirtier and dirtier in that barn was driving me crazy. So the truck got it's first bath and-in go the seats and-on goes the top and doors. I've got a few adjustment issues on the back and more difficulty with the front doors but they'll science out.
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And more. Man, those new weather stripping seals are thick! How long does it take for the rubber to submit to the shape of the truck? Both rear doors need to be moved up. Fronts are very close.

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