Picture of the affected area?
First car, lx450!
- Thread starter tug123
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- #242
I wiped a lot off but still a good bit there, will send when I’m back home.
Nice work.
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- #244
I wiped a bunch of it off, but especially down below by the black bar (in between the two pulleys) there's a boatload, can't really get a picture that far down. On the other side of the engine (driver's side, this is passenger's side) there's some grime/oil but it's covered in dust so I don't think it's a crazy leak.
Could be silicate from the coolant, or maybe whatever lubricant is in the refrigerant is leaking close by. Not too much oil on that side unless it was from before the new valve cover gasket.
Clean it up and monitor is probably the most sound advice.
Clean it up and monitor is probably the most sound advice.
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- #246
Yeah I think I'll avoid changing any more gaskets till I get it running and can monitor it. Noticed vast majority of oil leak from valve cover gasket was around the 6th cylinder, not much on this end near 1st. But yeah I'll do that otherwise this car will never run.
I used one of these digital torque readers
they’re about as accurate as a standard garage torque wrench, about ±10-15% I think.
I’m gonna hijack the thread while we’re touching on the topic
I technically overtightened my crank bolt to around 350-360 if I’m remembering correctly. Do I need to go back and get a proper torque? Is that super duper bad
Tighten it down until you break it off, then back it off 1/2 turn.I used one of these digital torque readers
they’re about as accurate as a standard garage torque wrench, about ±10-15% I think.
I’m gonna hijack the thread while we’re touching on the topic
Per FSM of course
Might as well check the HB if you are going to take the crank bolt off. 
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- #251
On the transmission lines, that #12 unicoil is pretty annoying to find nowadays. Can't really find any good suggestions for what to do on that, anybody have a preferably cheap solution?
Edit: did see someone use Continental GY12UBP E-Z Coil meant for 1/2" lines, not very expensive maybe I'll do that.
Edit: did see someone use Continental GY12UBP E-Z Coil meant for 1/2" lines, not very expensive maybe I'll do that.
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I was hoping you had figured it out when you linked the thread earlier. It took me forever to find mine and I was lucky someone had a few on ebay when I checked. NAPA p/n 9986. Called my local NAPA to see if they had one in stock and that part number was fully dead
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- #253
Oh ebay was a great idea, most seemed to be from Australia but I just ordered the last one of these. Looks like it's about 30 years old but for $16 might as well try, they have that same part number 9986 on the page. If it does work I'll have an extra for whenever I decided to irresponsibly buy another 80.
I have a few worm screw clamps here and there…..staring at me, begging to be replaced.
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- #256
I’m sure if I tightened em and left em on I’d be saying the same thing three years down the line
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- #257
Finally back to work. Many forgotten hoses and clamps later, all the heater hoses are on. Haven't clamped anything yet I think that U pipe probably needs to be pushed in a bit more on the bottom hose, but should be mostly good.
Radiator is replaced as well, just waiting on the nuts for the fan clutch to swap water pump and and fan clutch. Transmission cooler hoses next and then it's really just putting everything back together (and figuring out where these random bolts I have laying around go).
Thinking should be fully good to go by next week.
Radiator is replaced as well, just waiting on the nuts for the fan clutch to swap water pump and and fan clutch. Transmission cooler hoses next and then it's really just putting everything back together (and figuring out where these random bolts I have laying around go).
Thinking should be fully good to go by next week.
Before you clamp everything down turn on the key and make some adjustments to the temperature control slider. Watch and see if the cable moves the heater control valve open and closed freely.
Glad to see you are on the home stretch!
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- #259
Ahhhhh that is really good advice. I planned on flushing it too to see if I have any leaks in my hoses since I've replaced so many, I won't clamp anything down till the end then.
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- #260
When doing swapping the transmission hoses, should I drain all the fluid from the trans drain plug, do all the swaps, and refill?
Or should I wait till I can run the engine and do all of this then so I can do it while it's hot?
Or should I wait till I can run the engine and do all of this then so I can do it while it's hot?
