First car, lx450!

[ZackR]

That harness has taken some heat but doesn't look too bad.

Be sure to pull all of the wires apart from each other and check really closely. Bend them back and forth a bit and make sure there are no cracks in the insulation. Adding a bit of tape to further protect them won't hurt either.

 

[tug123]

That harness has taken some heat but doesn't look too bad.

Be sure to pull all of the wires apart from each other and check really closely. Bend them back and forth a bit and make sure there are no cracks in the insulation. Adding a bit of tape to further protect them won't hurt either.

Just checked a bit more in depth, really cant find anything wires are a lot sturdier than I would expect. Only thing that stands out is what seems to be a tiny crimp on the black/white wire in between my index and ring finger. Its hard to feel anything and seems more like paint, but the picture is definitely showing it as raised more like a crimp.

 

[tug123]

Since #6 misfire is still fairly ambiguous what caused it, is there other stuff I ought to check here to make sure it gets solved?

 

[banjo1981]

Since the injector ohms out in the acceptable range, I think there’s a test for the injector wiring itself.

I used a lighted probe to check both wires on each injector. Just need the key in the on position without the engine running if I recall correctly. Ground the probe and start poking the injector wires. Could be that #6 injector wires are damaged somewhere else.

 

[tug123]

Since the injector ohms out in the acceptable range, I think there’s a test for the injector wiring itself.

I used a lighted probe to check both wires on each injector. Just need the key in the on position without the engine running if I recall correctly. Ground the probe and start poking the injector wires. Could be that #6 injector wires are damaged somewhere else.

Just to be clear, ohms on injectors is one test but they still could be clogged (though its highly unlikely on 80s series, and have had great luck with this car)?

I’ll look into injector wire testing, couple of connectors broke so will be fun trying to not short everything. Was considering opening up all the wire harness to really check but at that point I might as well pull it.

 

[tug123]

Checked the voltage on the injector wires, seems okay to me: 11.72v on 1,2,5,6 and 11.68v on 3,4. Glad to know wiring harness isn't shorting.

Won't be able to work on the car till next week. Injectors are sent off, should get back next week. Parts seem to be about 2 weeks out.

While I'm waiting for parts, I'll probably just run the FSM tests on stuff like IAC, fuel pump relay, etc. just to make sure everything's all working well.

 

[banjo1981]

Just to be clear, ohms on injectors is one test but they still could be clogged (though its highly unlikely on 80s series, and have had great luck with this car)?

I’ll look into injector wire testing, couple of connectors broke so will be fun trying to not short everything. Was considering opening up all the wire harness to really check but at that point I might as well pull it.

Seems logical that they could ohm “good”, but could still be clogged or some other internal issue.

 

[Brindleboxer]

Also when you get the injectors back please ensure you use new o-rings and grommets, as previously referenced. In the photo from post #110 four of the the six injectors do not have the grommets on the engine side so they are probably still in place - ensure they are pulled

As for your wiring harness if it looks good and you are getting voltage, within spec per the FSM, I would wrap as others have said but I would also add some heat shield, I used a product from DEI called heat sheath, in the EGR area to add another layer of protection before securing away from the the EGR.

 

[tug123]

Well my car just got towed, that will be fun to deal with.

Also when you get the injectors back please ensure you use new o-rings and grommets, as previously referenced. In the photo from post #110 four of the the six injectors do not have the grommets on the engine side so they are probably still in place - ensure they are pulled

As for your wiring harness if it looks good and you are getting voltage, within spec per the FSM, I would wrap as others have said but I would also add some heat shield, I used a product from DEI called heat sheath, in the EGR area to add another layer of protection before securing away from the the EGR.

Yep they're on the way. The grommets were super hard to get out, I need to grab a seal puller or something to try to wiggle em out. Heat shield is a great idea as well, I will order that today.

 

[tug123]

Got some of that fancy Elliott EE 201 wrap + DEI Ultra 47 Sheath (010233, 1.25"). Am I missing a step here, or is that enough to secure the EGR? Will order a spare wiring harness when this is all done just so I have it on hand anyways.

 

[CharlieS]

Got some of that fancy Elliott EE 201 wrap + DEI Ultra 47 Sheath (010233, 1.25"). Am I missing a step here, or is that enough to secure the EGR? Will order a spare wiring harness when this is all done just so I have it on hand anyways.

You are wrapping the wire harness (not the egr), so as long as you have good heat insulation wrapping the wire harness you should be fine.

 

[Fj80oregon]

You are wrapping the wire harness (not the egr), so as long as you have good heat insulation wrapping the wire harness you should be fine.

If you have no EGR you have no heat to damage the wires! Just saying.

 

[CharlieS]

If you have no EGR you have no heat to damage the wires! Just saying.

I couldn't agree more. Mine left the building right after I got it.

 

[tug123]

Yeah sorry I left out a few words there, but meaning the wires near the EGR harness. EGR delete has been on my mind for awhile, but the last thing I wanna do is make this project take even longer ha. Perhaps I'll do that when I want more practice pulling the intake manifold.

One other thing, worth redoing the valve cover half moons when I do valve cover gasket replacement? Seems to be a mix of opinions from what I can find, but also saw someone snap one off into the engine block and that horrified me a bit.

 

[tug123]

I do actually remember seeing Zach talk about the resistor trick, I already have plenty of 4.7k resistors sitting around maybe I just do that to start and don't pull anything to at least drop the EGR pipe temp.

 

[CharlieS]

One other thing, worth redoing the valve cover half moons when I do valve cover gasket replacement? Seems to be a mix of opinions from what I can find, but also saw someone snap one off into the engine block and that horrified me a bit.

Mine have all cleaned up nicely and then were reinstalled with fresh FIPG. Unless they get misplaced or are somehow damaged, you should be able to reuse them. I find a pair of Knipex pliers with some padding does a nice job removing them without damage.

 

[Fj80oregon]

When removing the half moons pull straight up with a slight wiggle or you will brake the cast aluminum flange off. It’s a very minimal flare but it’s there.

 

[tug123]

Mine have all cleaned up nicely and then were reinstalled with fresh FIPG. Unless they get misplaced or are somehow damaged, you should be able to reuse them. I find a pair of Knipex pliers with some padding does a nice job removing them without damage.

Awesome, local toyota dealer has FIPG 103 (for $30 no less, but don't wanna wait a few weeks) so I'll just do that when I do valve cover gasket.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Awesome, local toyota dealer has FIPG 103 (for $30 no less, but don't wanna wait a few weeks) so I'll just do that when I do valve cover gasket.

Amazon has it for 22

 

[tug123]

Amazon has it for 22

Amazon takes at least a week for me