My local dealer had it in stock. I'm sure their techs use a bunch of it. You need to remove the valve cover to access the half moons, so when you do the valve cover gaskets (and spark plug seals) is the ideal time to reseal the half moons. To me it is the same job. I don't see how you could do the half moons without doing the valve cover gasket.
First car, lx450!
- Thread starter tug123
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #142
Yeah they said they had a ton. Agreed though, saw some opinions saying if its not leaking don’t replace it, but makes way more sense to do with valve cover gaskets.
Got 80% of my parts today, will do full inventory check tomorrow. Waiting to hear back from RC for injectors, but as long as they’re good I’m off to work later this week.
First thing I’ll probably do is PHH (i have full sub assy), gonna replace heater control valve as well so hopefully if I pull that I’ll get some more space.
- Thread starter
- #143
Injectors are done, RC said that one was definitely clogged but they’re all at 305cc (pretty sure I heard right) now which is in spec. Can’t check the FSM right now but I’ll trust em, seems like I saved $800 by just getting em cleaned. Will post the full report when they arrive.
Off to work tomorrow, hopefully can get everything running in the next week or two.
Off to work tomorrow, hopefully can get everything running in the next week or two.
If I remember right, the PHH metal tube bracket might be easier to access with the intake manifold off. If I were you I'd try to get that installed before you put everything back together. I went with the silicone hose PHH option and I definitely couldn't get all the bolts for the hard tube bracket out with the tools I have and with the intake manifold still installed. I removed the one bolt I could access and bent the tube a little to get my new silicone hose on and then bent it back to get it plugged into the block. If you have the right flex head ratchet wrench or a really slim 1/4" drive ratchet with a flex head maybe it's doable without pulling the intake manifold but it's a tight fit. The guy in this video does it with a 1/4" drive flex head ratchet and some vise grips somehow.
Is that the one that was in Park City?
- Thread starter
- #146
Awesome thank you, definitely agree I’d be pretty insane if I decided to do it after I put the upper intake back on haha. Don’t think it should be too crazy.
Nope, from Idaho
Pretty sure that when i did my HG and had my injectors done i was able to get new OEM electrical conectors. The little plastic wiring connector that plugs into the injector. I think one of mine had gotten brittle and cracked. I replaced them all with new ones. I think they were pretty cheap and easy to replace.Also when you get the injectors back please ensure you use new o-rings and grommets, as previously referenced. In the photo from post #110 four of the the six injectors do not have the grommets on the engine side so they are probably still in place - ensure they are pulled
As for your wiring harness if it looks good and you are getting voltage, within spec per the FSM, I would wrap as others have said but I would also add some heat shield, I used a product from DEI called heat sheath, in the EGR area to add another layer of protection before securing away from the the EGR.
- Thread starter
- #149
Yep I ordered 6x just to have on hand from Ballenger from Charlie's advice, one I had to cut but we'll see how many I have to do. Planned on just crimping the pigtails but dunno how well that'll work out, I'll play it by ear till they get here.
The conection i am thinking of inbolves not cutting. You just use a pick type tool and pop the old ones off and the new plug conector slides right one. But if your wires are damaged you might have to repair or replace the wires.
You have good advice already. Just keep working on it. Slow and methodically. Best of luck with it.
Ps what part of Wy are you in? Just curious incase you need resorces. I know there is a good LC specific shop up in Bozeman. Other than that i only know of stuff down near Denver.
You have good advice already. Just keep working on it. Slow and methodically. Best of luck with it.
Ps what part of Wy are you in? Just curious incase you need resorces. I know there is a good LC specific shop up in Bozeman. Other than that i only know of stuff down near Denver.
- Thread starter
- #151
I got the ones with pigtails (here), had to cut one connector to get the fuel rail out, it just would not unclick.
I'm in Sheridan - Rising Sun in Bozeman is probably who I'd go to if I really needed something, but honestly would be really not happy if I couldn't figure out how to do something myself and had to take it to a shop (especially with the current workload). I have a friend here who has lots of experience, been great for advice on a bunch of the smaller stuff.
- Thread starter
- #152
Noticed one thing that gave me some pause - what seems to be the head gasket on the intake side of the engine has this white stuff and what kinda looks like concrete (I know it's surely not concrete, but has the same texture). Anyone have any idea what's going on with this/if I should be concerned here? This is looking in between the third and fourth cylinders (if that's what they're called on the intake) of the lower intake manifold.
Last edited:
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Not FIPG, only place between the head and block that gets FIPG is the corners of the timing cover where it contacts the block.
- Thread starter
- #155
Oh damn - not really sure what that is then.
Could be a little bit of corrosion?
- Thread starter
- #157
I think so, I can wipe it off pretty easily, it's all just powder. All that's really left once I do is the white powder that seems to go in between the head and the block. I've looked around on other places and the white powder just seems to be a natural oxidation of aluminum. I'm not gonna worry about it.
- Thread starter
- #158
This is Toyota red right? Looks pretty clean, honestly may just fill it back up with Toyota red for now to avoid flushing it 6x times or whatever. No one around here takes coolant so disposing of it will not be fun, and I don't have a place to store gallons of coolant.
AFAIK most auto parts stores that sell coolant will take used coolant back. Some people have been known to pour it into the ground away from pets, plants, grass, and somewhere there isn't flowing water or a very high ground water level. The microbes in the dirt should breakdown the coolant before it reaches any (deep) ground water. Got any animals (cows, horses, pigs, dogs, humans??) around the house/barn? You could speed up the breakdown process by dumping some manure into the pit with the coolant. Obviously not something you'd do with commercial quantities of used coolant.
Disclaimer: follow all environmental laws of course.
Disclaimer: follow all environmental laws of course.