First car, lx450!

[ZackR]

Misfire is a solvable problem, you are definitely in better shape than what it sounded like at the beginning of the thread.

Have you had a chance to open up and inspect the engine wiring harness where is passes the EGR pipe? That's a common location for wiring shorts (search the forum and you'll find plenty of info).

Personally I'd make a plan to pull the upper intake (not that hard) and address the following (all are either PM or will help with drivability):

- Wiring harness inspection/repair and secure it away from the EGR
- PHH (pesky heater hose) and throttle body coolant hoses
- Fuel filter (these are often neglected)
- All vacuum hoses under the intake
- Pull all of the injectors and send them in for testing and cleaning, install with new O rings
- Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals
- Upper intake gaskets and throttle body gasket
- PCV valve and ventilation hoses
- Intake hose
- Spark plugs + wires
- Cap and rotor
- Deep clean throttle body, check and adjust TPS (throttle position sensor) and throttle cables (including kickdown and cruise control)
- Clean out the IAC (idle air control) valve and port, test per FSM
- Air filter
- 02 sensors if they are old
- Once up and running again and codes are gone check ad adjust the base ignition timing

Once you have a plan of attack you can order a bunch of OEM parts from partsouq and have it all ready to go. Sometimes its just better to dive in and knock out all of these together since everything will be much easier with the upper intake removed. In the process you'll take care of the normal tune up items as well as any vacuum leaks which can be difficult to chase down and cause a lot of drivability issues.

Oh and before you take it apart give the engine a good cleaning.

 

[tug123]

Misfire is a solvable problem, you are definitely in better shape than what it sounded like at the beginning of the thread.

Have you had a chance to open up and inspect the engine wiring harness where is passes the EGR pipe? That's a common location for wiring shorts (search the forum and you'll find plenty of info).

Personally I'd make a plan to pull the upper intake (not that hard) and address the following (all are either PM or will help with drivability):

- Wiring harness inspection/repair and secure it away from the EGR
- PHH (pesky heater hose) and throttle body coolant hoses
- Fuel filter (these are often neglected)
- All vacuum hoses under the intake
- Pull all of the injectors and send them in for testing and cleaning, install with new O rings
- Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals
- Upper intake gaskets and throttle body gasket
- PCV valve and ventilation hoses
- Intake hose
- Spark plugs + wires
- Cap and rotor
- Deep clean throttle body, check and adjust TPS (throttle position sensor) and throttle cables (including kickdown and cruise control)
- Clean out the IAC (idle air control) valve and port, test per FSM
- Air filter
- 02 sensors if they are old
- Once up and running again and codes are gone check ad adjust the base ignition timing

Once you have a plan of attack you can order a bunch of OEM parts from partsouq and have it all ready to go. Sometimes its just better to dive in and knock out all of these together since everything will be much easier with the upper intake removed. In the process you'll take care of the normal tune up items as well as any vacuum leaks which can be difficult to chase down and cause a lot of drivability issues.

Oh and before you take it apart give the engine a good cleaning.

Agreed! I'm feeling pretty happy about all of these findings, really glad I came here instead of taking it to a shop. Beating a dead horse, but the value/knowledge on here is mind boggling.

Have not checked the wiring harness, but that's a great thing to add to the list. The list you shared seems perfect, there are a couple other things I know I need to do as well (charcoal filter, hood lock) I had intended to do some of these but your list is far more thorough. Makes a lot of sense to do all at once too, is PHH simpler with the upper intake manifold off? Someone suggested pulling the starter as well to make intake manifold job a bit easier.

My only concern is it seems like I'll probably have to wait on the fuel injectors (I think I'll just get em serviced and if any of em don't pass I'll consider new ones, but $150 vs $1k is definitely worth it). Honestly though will probably make the job a bit easier being able to not try to do this in a single day (no way I could haha).

Scariest part for me is engine cleaning, seems like a bunch of people just seem to put a hose or pressure washer on the engine and avoid the dizzy, etc. but I don't know if I have the stones for that haha. Have been cleaning what I can as I go, it's a bit better, but engine degreaser + water is probably what's really needed.

 

[tug123]

Was working on figuring out order of operations and just found this which sounds pretty darn similar to my issue and goes through a lot of what Zach suggested. Estimating I can do this for about $1k, I'm probably being a bit conservative but as long as I don't replace the wiring harness and just repair it doesn't seem like it could be much more. Think I may do leak down on #1 before just to be extra certain engines okay though.

 

[tug123]

Finally did a leak down (cold engine) before I open it all up. Results are obviously way better than what the mechanic told me, but still would like to get to the bottom of the lower numbers. Added compression test results as well:

#1: 173psi, 78/90 (14% leak)
#2: 163psi, 60/80 (25% leak)
#3: 168psi, 80/90 (11% leak)
#4: 164psi, 67/90 (25% leak)
#5: 160psi, 58/88 (35% leak)
#6: 171psi, 85/90 (6% leak)

It seems to line up pretty well with the lower compression cylinders that have higher leaks. I checked everywhere for leaking air but the only place it was actually leaking (very strong stream of air) was through the two ventilation hose valves on the top of the engine (one is PCV valve, other one I think doesn't have a name, but it's to the left of it). It seems like the internet says air coming from PCV valve could mean worn piston rings, but I wonder (or am hoping) it could just be a gasket (not head tho please).

If this is worn piston rings, my take is its a 30y/o engine who hasn't had much care, and this is probably to be expected though shouldn't cause any immediate issues (?). Unless I'm missing something clear here, I'm still gonna go after the injectors and do a bunch of other maintenance, and treat the engine as old but drive-able, knowing it will probably cause me issues in the future.

 

[CharlieS]

That link has lots of good info, but I'd follow @ZackR post.

It may seem unlikely, but definitely check the wires in the harness that runs by the EGR for damage. Remove the sheathing and give them a visual inspection.

I had several very cooked injector wires with cracks and heat/burn damage.

If that is the case for you, don't despair - you can get replacement injector connectors with pigtail wires from Ballenger Motorsports.

Also, don't be surprised if the plastic wire harness connectors are brittle and crack/break. I'd recommend having a spare set in hand (again Ballenger Motorsports).

They are available with and with pigtails. Learn from my mistake: I bought bare connectors first, only to buy the ones with pigtails later. It led to a long delay in completing the project.

Invoice​
Part #​	Description​	​
CONN-85971	Sumitomo 2 Way TS Plug Pigtail for Denso Injectors, (Toyota # 90980-11153)

 

[tug123]

That link has lots of good info, but I'd follow @ZackR post.

It may seem unlikely, but definitely check the wires in the harness that runs by the EGR for damage. Remove the sheathing and give them a visual inspection.

I had several very cooked injector wires with cracks and heat/burn damage.

If that is the case for you, don't despair - you can get replacement injector connectors with pigtail wires from Ballenger Motorsports.

Also, don't be surprised if the plastic wire harness connectors are brittle and crack/break. I'd recommend having a spare set in hand (again Ballenger Motorsports).

They are available with and with pigtails. Learn from my mistake: I bought bare connectors first, only to buy the ones with pigtails later. It led to a long delay in completing the project.

Invoice​
Part #​	Description​	​
CONN-85971	Sumitomo 2 Way TS Plug Pigtail for Denso Injectors, (Toyota # 90980-11153)

Absolutely, this is just the first time I'm working on a car so it's quite helpful for me to see someone's progression. Really just trying to map out order of operations in my head, i.e. if I do the PHH after I put the intake manifold back on I'm an idiot. Zach's list is what I'm going off of though 100%.

Pigtails are awesome ty, I noticed on a few threads people complaining about how they're annoying to find. I have a good bit of electrical experience so if need be I'll pull the wiring harness and repair whatever needs to be repaired. Don't really wanna spend $650 on a new one.

 

[tug123]

Was bugging me, so did a hot leak down, results are way better.

#1: 86/90
#2: 80/90
#3: 83/90
#4: 77/90
#5: 77/90
#6: 84/90

Hot compression test lines up well, 2 4 and 5 are clearly a little worse but I'll deal with that many thousands of miles from now.

For anyone who many want to do this in the future, def do it with a hot engine, cold engine gave me some scares but all okay when hot. Also, learned if you unscrew the radiator fan (it won't come out, not enough room) you can pretty easily crank the engine from up top. Took me an hour and a half by myself to do it all.

Will clean the engine, order all the parts, and move forward with Zach's suggestion. Engine's great, most likely an injector.

 

[DIRTBIKEUSA]

Your compression is great don’t worry about leak down. I can tell you right now it’s normal ring wear. Use good oil and you will be fine. Don’t over think it. It’s time to move on to your misfire.

diagnose the misfire. You should have new plugs and wires in it by now..dizzy cap and rotor.

 

[tug123]

Your compression is great don’t worry about leak down. I can tell you right now it’s normal ring wear. Use good oil and you will be fine. Don’t over think it. It’s time to move on to your misfire.

diagnose the misfire. You should have new plugs and wires in it by now..dizzy cap and rotor.

Building parts list as we speak haha, will order tonight. Don't have a wonderful place to work on it so wanna do it all at once with hose overhaul, cap/rotor etc.

 

[banjo1981]

Good peace of mind to know your block and HG are good to go. Hopefully the rest goes very smooth. Fingers crossed it’s simple.

 

[tug123]

Category	Parts	Source
throttle body coolant hoses	- bypass hose #1 (1626166040) + 2x clamp (9613551300) - bypass hose #2 (1626466021) + 2x clamp (9613551300) - bypass hose #3 (1626766020) + 2x clamp (9046713073) (maybe 9046713128) - bypass hose #4 (9955510200) + 2x clamp (9613551300)	partsouq
engine coolant thermostat	- thermostat (9091603117) + gasket (16346-66020) - 3x o-ring (9030129006) + 2x bolt (91511J0840)	Partsouq
vacuum hoses	- 1x vacuum hose (9533706020) - 2x coolant line clamp (9613551100) - 6x vacuum hose (9099992002) [hope that's enough] - 1x vacuum hose clamp (9046707094, replaced by 9613240700) - 1x plug (9033903002) - 1x bolt flange (91511B0814) - 1x 3 way (9041304019) - 1x vacuum hose (9091005217) - 4x clamp (9613251100) - 1x vacuum hose (9533306010) - 1x vacuum hose (9091005212) - 1x vacuum hose (9041206001)	Ourisman
heater hoses	- heater control valve (8724060170) - 2x bolt (9011906100) - 3x heater hose (9955630100) + 5x clamp (8712428030) + clamp (9046722003, is now 9046721010) - heater hose (8724560480) + 2x clamp (9046721010) - heater hose sub assembly (8720960290) + clamp (9611210250) + clamp (9046722003, is now 9046721010) - PHH + sub assembly (8720960381) + spring clamp (9046721010) + 2x bolt (9011908197)	Partsouq + Ourisman
radiator	- radiator hose #1 (1657166030) + 2x clamp (9046741002) - radiator hose #2 (1657266021) + clamp (9046743002) + clamp (9046741002) - radiator hose #3 (1657366010) + clamp (9046743002) + clamp (9046741002) - reserve tank cap sub assembly (1640566020) - random hose (9955510200) + 2x clamp (9613551300) - radiator cap (1640154750)	Partsouq, Ourisman for clamps (9046741002)
EGR	- egr vacuum modulator hose (2569566010) - egr gasket (2562766010) + 2x bolt (9011608348) + 2x nut (9017908175)	Ourisman
PCV/ventilation Hoses	- pcv valve (1220435040) + grommet (9048018001) - ventilation hose #1 (1226166021) + 2x clamp (9046714001) - ventilation hose #2 (1226266021) + 2x clamp (9046720002)	Partsouq
fuel filter	- fuel filter (2330069045) + 2x bolt (9040112097) + 4x washer (9043012026)	Filter from Ourisman, bolts/washers from Partsouq
intake	- air filter (1780166030) - intake hose (1788166080) + 2x clamp (9611110900)	Ourisman
dizzy	- cap (1910166010) + gasket (1912766020) - rotor (1910261240) - o ring (9009914118)	Ourisman
valve cover	- valve cover gasket (1121366021) - 6x spark plug gasket (1119315010)	Partsouq
throttle body	- throttle body gasket (2227166010) + 2x bolt (9010508305, discontinued on many places) + 2x bolt (9010508134) - hose (9099992002) - hose (9099992003)	Partsouq
intake manifold	- intake manifold gasket #1 (1717166010) - intake manifold gasket #2 (1717966010) - 2x bolt (9010508286, replaced by 9008010309) - 2x nut (9017908040) - 4x bolt (9151160830, replaced by 9008010249)	Ourisman
fuel rail + injectors	- 6x fuel injector o-ring (9030107001) - 6x fuel injector seal (top) (9048013005) - 6x fuel injector seal (bottom) (2329141010) - 1x hose (9533406010) + 2x clamp (9613551100) - 3x bolt (9162160860) - 2x bolt (9040112097) + 4x gasket (9043012026) - 3x bolt flange (9151160814, replaced by 91511B0814)	Partsouq
spark plugs	- spark plug wires (9091921557) - 6x spark plugs (9091901176)	Ourisman

 

[tug123]

Well I guess I can't add text before a table after I insert it, no way I'm writing that again haha. Going a little crazy managing all these parts so will just drop it here and edit it as I go. Think I may be missing one or two intake manifold gaskets, and the heater hoses for the heater control valve don't seem to have part numbers for some of the clamps. Think I'm missing a few heater hoses as well, but saw some of em are borderline impossible to replace so will be a bit more thorough on that.

May get some flak for this hah but decided to just do OEM PHH with the sub assembly all in one, so many opinions on it I couldn't make up my mind, so gonna follow Phil's advice on this one and hope to never touch it again.

cruisin4parts.com is super helpful, looking like a bit over $1k with not all of it right now, $1.5k is probably a realistic target.

 

[BILT4ME]

Well I guess I can't add text before a table after I insert it, no way I'm writing that again haha. Going a little crazy managing all these parts so will just drop it here and edit it as I go. Think I may be missing one or two intake manifold gaskets, and the heater hoses for the heater control valve don't seem to have part numbers for some of the clamps. Think I'm missing a few heater hoses as well, but saw some of em are borderline impossible to replace so will be a bit more thorough on that.

May get some flak for this hah but decided to just do OEM PHH with the sub assembly all in one, so many opinions on it I couldn't make up my mind, so gonna follow Phil's advice on this one and hope to never touch it again.

cruisin4parts.com is super helpful, looking like a bit over $1k with not all of it right now, $1.5k is probably a realistic target.

Shop:
www.partsouq.com
Ourisman Toyota
Local Toyota dealership
Olathe Toyota parts

Not all dealerships are equal. MSRP is not the same nor are the discounts.

 

[tug123]

Shop:
www.partsouq.com
Ourisman Toyota
Local Toyota dealership
Olathe Toyota parts

Not all dealerships are equal. MSRP is not the same nor are the discounts.

I've been using Lithia Toyota since it's a lot closer to me and prices are pretty equivalent, it's probably better to use Ourisman though especially for something this big (if partsouq doesn't have it).

 

[BILT4ME]

I've been using Lithia Toyota since it's a lot closer to me and prices are pretty equivalent, it's probably better to use Ourisman though especially for something this big (if partsouq doesn't have it).

Partsouq is best for all rubber parts I have found.
Hoses, bushings, window runs.
Heavy stuff I get locally or from Ourisman.

 

[tug123]

One question I do have, the rear heater hoses (87209-60301 and 87209-60441), it seems like 87209-60301 is notoriously brutal to take out with the transmission still in unless you have the valve cover off (which I will). Are these worth it as PM items (I really don't want to spend $400 on them) or if they look good don't touch em? Not very interested in delete.

 

[BILT4ME]

One question I do have, the rear heater hoses (87209-60301 and 87209-60441), it seems like 87209-60301 is notoriously brutal to take out with the transmission still in unless you have the valve cover off (which I will). Are these worth it as PM items (I really don't want to spend $400 on them) or if they look good don't touch em? Not very interested in delete.

You cannot change the upper rear heater hard lines with the transmission in the truck.

There's a maybe if the head is off the engine.

The lowers can be changed with everything still in the truck and if you have aftermarket exhaust. If the hard lines are rusty, change them. I had to use heater hose from O'Reilly's for the upper because mine rusted through and I cut out the uppers.

 

[effjay80]

87209-60301 is a section of hard (metal) line with rubber hose sections at both ends. You will have an incredibly difficult time getting the hard lines replaced like you said. Been done and there's a thread around on the subject.

I was able to pull and replace just the soft (rubber) line sections of that assembly w new hose and clamps and kept my original hard (metal) lines in place as they appeared okay from the outside anyhow. My rubber was the problem.

 

[tug123]

Awesome, thank you guys that's what it seemed like but just wanted to make sure. I'll take a look and see if there's anything gnarly in there, haven't found much rusting on pipes but just about every hose is pretty brittle.

 

[tug123]

Did some mild cleaning (more in depth this week) and I think I found the main leak I'm seeing (definitely not heater control valve, though it's leaking for sure). It seems like a bunch of oil is collecting on the 6th cylinder of the head on the exhaust side. It's kind of hard to see from the pictures, but seems like that's where it's originating. It then leaks down to the top of the exhaust manifold, and ends up dripping under the car. Seems like it's leaking from the valve cover gasket kind of all over, but mostly 6th cylinder area.

Two questions: this seems like most probably cause here would be a valve cover gasket (doubt it's been replaced in 170k mile lifetime)? also, if it is leaking directly onto the exhaust manifold, is it worth it to replace exhaust manifold gasket? just seems like pulling it can be kind of rough getting the bolts out, mine isn't in great shape.