First car, lx450!

[effjay80]

FIPG easy especially if you have a lackey friend to screw in corner bolts while you hold pan in place.

I'd replace the filter and solenoids while pan is off too.

 

[tug123]

FIPG easy especially if you have a lackey friend to screw in corner bolts while you hold pan in place.

I'd replace the filter and solenoids while pan is off too.

I can definitely find a lackey somewhere haha. Was a bit worried about the magnets seeing a few tiny lines (like when metal sticks to a magnet), but after looking up pictures of people with actual metal shavings, I'm no longer worried haha it's hard to miss.

The filter I've seen numerous people say is metal and doesn't need to be replaced? Solenoids on the other hand, wow are those expensive, seems like the only real option is to order them from Amayama/Impex which will take way too long. Don't see many reasonable options other than sketchy Amazon ones. Using PN's 85420-21090 and 35250-50030.

 

[TXMeatball]

I can definitely find a lackey somewhere haha. Was a bit worried about the magnets seeing a few tiny lines (like when metal sticks to a magnet), but after looking up pictures of people with actual metal shavings, I'm no longer worried haha it's hard to miss.

The filter I've seen numerous people say is metal and doesn't need to be replaced? Solenoids on the other hand, wow are those expensive, seems like the only real option is to order them from Amayama/Impex which will take way too long. Don't see many reasonable options other than sketchy Amazon ones. Using PN's 85420-21090 and 35250-50030.

View attachment 3728243

Looks fine to me. Just clean out the filter with brake cleaner and wipe off the magnets.
Only read a couple pages back but I wouldn't mess with the solenoids if it's shifting fine. I remember reading somewhere that you can source cheaper factory ones from some AMC/Jeep sources that also used the A340E or whatever the trans is.
If the pan is still off bump up the shift line pressure. Not a super noticeable difference but helps long term prospects.

Improving Transmission Shifting

IMHO the auto trans is tuned more on the smooth shift side than I prefer. As lift, weight, larger tires, etc, have been added, it has moved more towards a slip shift end of performance.:frown: So, did a bunch of reading, talked to a trans tech buddy and have tried a few tweaks with good results...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[tug123]

Looks fine to me. Just clean out the filter with brake cleaner and wipe off the magnets.
Only read a couple pages back but I wouldn't mess with the solenoids if it's shifting fine. I remember reading somewhere that you can source cheaper factory ones from some AMC/Jeep sources that also used the A340E or whatever the trans is.
If the pan is still off bump up the shift line pressure. Not a super noticeable difference but helps long term prospects.

Improving Transmission Shifting

IMHO the auto trans is tuned more on the smooth shift side than I prefer. As lift, weight, larger tires, etc, have been added, it has moved more towards a slip shift end of performance.:frown: So, did a bunch of reading, talked to a trans tech buddy and have tried a few tweaks with good results...

forum.ih8mud.com

Shifting can be a bit strange - anything past second is totally fine, but reverse to drive can "clunk" quite a bit sometimes. Unfortunately I haven't gotten to checking tcase+driveshaft/u-joints, etc. to see if that's where the clunking is coming from. But no general complaints about shifting at reasonable speeds.

I was wondering about increasing the line pressure, I'm pretty darn close to stock (that may change, but not dramatically) and never tow so wasn't sure if increasing it was for me.

 

[TXMeatball]

Shifting can be a bit strange - anything past second is totally fine, but reverse to drive can "clunk" quite a bit sometimes. Unfortunately I haven't gotten to checking tcase+driveshaft/u-joints, etc. to see if that's where the clunking is coming from. But no general complaints about shifting at reasonable speeds.

I was wondering about increasing the line pressure, I'm pretty darn close to stock (that may change, but not dramatically) and never tow so wasn't sure if increasing it was for me.

Clunk sounds like worn mounts or bushings.
From everything I've read increasing the pressure is better for the trans health. From personal experience doing it on my 5 speed auto SC400 made a huge difference.
Trans pan isn't hard to pull so I'd seal it up and run it with new fluid.

 

[tug123]

Clunk sounds like worn mounts or bushings.
From everything I've read increasing the pressure is better for the trans health. From personal experience doing it on my 5 speed auto SC400 made a huge difference.
Trans pan isn't hard to pull so I'd seal it up and run it with new fluid.

Sounds good, I thought it was gonna be a whole ordeal but yeah it really isn't hard to pull. I'll increase pressure and call it a day. Don't really want to go spending $700 on new solenoids, or spend $400 and wait 3 weeks.

 

[effjay80]

Yes the screen can just be cleaned but only like $10 for a new one. Places like Cobra also have the A442 solenoid sets (all 4) for ~$200. My replacements are Isuzu but EXACTLY same as Toyota/OEM.

Automatic Transmission Parts - Toyota - Search by Transmission Model - A440 Series - Solenoid, Sensor… - Cobra Transmission

cobratransmission.com

 

[tug123]

Yes the screen can just be cleaned but only like $10 for a new one. Places like Cobra also have the A442 solenoid sets (all 4) for ~$200. My replacements are Isuzu but EXACTLY same as Toyota/OEM.

Automatic Transmission Parts - Toyota - Search by Transmission Model - A440 Series - Solenoid, Sensor… - Cobra Transmission

cobratransmission.com

Thing's take awhile to get here, I'll probably just clean it. Cobra doesn't have the correct solenoids for A343 unfortunately, it's easy to find the cheap Amazon knockoffs but not so much the real Aisin/Denso ones. What I'll probably do is just order them from Amayama (or somewhere in Japan) and keep them on hand because those prices are far more reasonable.

 

[duece71]

I yanked everything related to the rear heat. I don't have any use for it, and it is just additional places for leaks. Not required by any means.

Agreed and did the same. The 2 rubber hoses underneath were hard as rocks. I am glad its out, one less avenue for potential problems.

 

[tug123]

Finally got the pan fix, my friend welded a drain plug on. It's not pretty but will hopefully do the job, we tried everything and had to grind the drain plug out. Wasn't enough left on the bung to use an insert. Will let it sit overnight with transmission fluid in it to make sure the weld isn't leaking anything.

 

[tug123]

Finally been getting some miles in - drove it about 250 miles yesterday, going 85-90 MPH most of the way with probably 12MPG. Seems like it's in really solid condition. Still hearing the fuel pump whining though and gotta finish stage 2+3 of sound deadening, the vibrations were pretty annoying at high speeds.

Today got to go up in the mountains and got to test it pretty well. Was my first time actually doing some more technical stuff, some of those trails are pretty gnarly, but it was a blast. Finally understand why everyone says the 80 is such a capable vehicle, it didn't bat an eye on any of the tougher stuff. Also understanding why I probably want to upgrade the suspension too now haha.

Only part that was annoying is the diff locks didn't engage, button just kept on blinking. I didn't try turning the wheels back and forth (was in low tho), will try a few more things next time, but I'm assuming they just haven't been used for years.

 

[ZackR]

Glad you got it up to speed and burned out the gunk. Mine is happiest at about 70 on the highway, it'll do 80 but that's a bigger ask.

 

[tug123]

Glad you got it up to speed and burned out the gunk. Mine is happiest at about 70 on the highway, it'll do 80 but that's a bigger ask.

I was fairly surprised because I've seen that posted many times before, was definitely surprised how fine it was with it. Most speed limits here are 75 or 80, but I should probably not push it past that.

 

[tug123]

After many months of work and help from mud, I now have about 1000 miles since i got it driving again with very few complaints. Just wanted to thank everyone here for all the help learning about this, 6mo ago I had never owned a car and didn't even know how to check the oil. Feeling pretty confident working on it nowadays because of all of the help and insight I got here. Think it's pretty safe to say this thread has changed from a "my car is broken" thread to a build thread.

My main thing is I'm definitely burning a good bit of oil. Still trying to feel it out but that's the main thing I'm trying to sort out (along with finally getting the last O2 sensor nut free, at a loss for that one). Removing the oil cap also does not affect the engine in any way, which makes me think something is off, but I cannot find a vacuum leak at all (done the smoke tester multiple times).

Gonna start focusing on getting prepped for winter conditions. I think I'll keep stock lift for now and not touch the bushings since they're in "okay" condition, but doing a bushing overhaul and putting a 1.75" (or 2" if I get a front bumper) is on my list in the future. Main things I'm planning on for the next month or two:

• new tires, leaning towards Toyo AT3 either 265/75r16 or 285/75r16
• CDL + pin 7 mod (ice is more of a concern than snow here, but if we do get snow this year I think it's a nice to have)
• oil catch can for PCV valve (spits out a good amount of oil)
• stage 2 + 3 for sound deadening (already did stage 1, very pleased with it)
• blackstone test for oil

 

[BucketEighty]

I vote for 265/75 R16 tire size, narrower is better for snow.

CDL mod is good but I almost never use it on snowy roads, open center diff works better on snowy roads most of the time.

Soak the O2 sensor nut with PB blaster every few days and then use a nut extractor on it. I used a file to file off all of the old O2 gasket material when I replaced my O2 sensors, chunks of rust and old gasket material were making it impossible to make a seal with the new gasket.

Awesome that you’re driving the truck now! Enjoy it. Don’t get sucked into lift kits and big tires if you can avoid it. Lockers, rock sliders, and a winch will get you lots of places and maintain the highway power and handling and keep the cost of tires down. Post some wheeling pics!

 

[tug123]

I vote for 265/75 R16 tire size, narrower is better for snow.

CDL mod is good but I almost never use it on snowy roads, open center diff works better on snowy roads most of the time.

Soak the O2 sensor nut with PB blaster every few days and then use a nut extractor on it. I used a file to file off all of the old O2 gasket material when I replaced my O2 sensors, chunks of rust and old gasket material were making it impossible to make a seal with the new gasket.

Awesome that you’re driving the truck now! Enjoy it. Don’t get sucked into lift kits and big tires if you can avoid it. Lockers, rock sliders, and a winch will get you lots of places and maintain the highway power and handling and keep the cost of tires down. Post some wheeling pics!

I was leaning towards 265s honestly, as I've said before I don't do crazy enough offroad stuff to feel the need for other stuff. CDL is mostly because I'm bored and want to do something, maybe I'll never use it but at least I get to keep doing work hah. The Alaska guy in the snow thread right now is really giving solid advice for strictly AWD.

I've done that for weeks with the O2 sensor, tried everything I can (including bolt extractors) and it's probably M10 instead of M12 now. Rear O2 sensor made a big difference in idle though so hopefully I can figure it out.

Already have lockers haha, but yeah I'm very hesitant to do stuff I don't understand why I want to. Suspension I ought to do because it's 30 years old, but I daily this so I'm very cautious not to make it a rough(er) drive. Mountains are on fire right now but next time I go up there I'll get some good ones!

 

[BucketEighty]

OME Nitrocharger Plus Shock - Front - '91-97 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road

359mm 14.13" compressed length 617mm 24.29" extended length

sleeoffroad.com

OME Nitrocharger Plus Shock - Rear - '91-97 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road

378mm 14.88" compressed length 625mm 24.61" extended length

sleeoffroad.com

I’d leave the stock springs on, and install the OME stock length shocks linked above. Drive it like that for a year and see how you like it. You can swap on different springs or add coil spring spacers (Aussies call them trim packers) to adjust ride height up to 1” lift while keeping those same shocks and those shocks aren’t so expensive that it’s a huge loss if you decide to upgrade later. They’ll make the truck feel like a sports car compared to the blown out factory shocks you’re running now

There wasn’t much left of my O2 sensor nuts either. They were smaller than M10.

You might be able to crack them in half with a nut cracker, or have you tried to spin them by hammering them in the proper direction with a chisel?

 

[ZackR]

Springs will make the most noticeable difference, the old ones wear out and get soft.

Stock height with 265's sounds like a solid all around option, especially for snow driving. By replacing your current springs with stock height you will still gain back an inch or so.

The CDL switch comes in handy and I'd recommend adding one.

 

[tug123]

OME Nitrocharger Plus Shock - Front - '91-97 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road

359mm 14.13" compressed length 617mm 24.29" extended length

sleeoffroad.com

OME Nitrocharger Plus Shock - Rear - '91-97 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road

378mm 14.88" compressed length 625mm 24.61" extended length

sleeoffroad.com

I’d leave the stock springs on, and install the OME stock length shocks linked above. Drive it like that for a year and see how you like it. You can swap on different springs or add coil spring spacers (Aussies call them trim packers) to adjust ride height up to 1” lift while keeping those same shocks and those shocks aren’t so expensive that it’s a huge loss if you decide to upgrade later. They’ll make the truck feel like a sports car compared to the blown out factory shocks you’re running now

There wasn’t much left of my O2 sensor nuts either. They were smaller than M10.

You might be able to crack them in half with a nut cracker, or have you tried to spin them by hammering them in the proper direction with a chisel?

I like this approach, I don't know well enough how an 80 *should* handle but it definitely feels like it could be better. Seems like an easy win that will make a difference.

I don't really have room in there to use a hammer, I was considering just taking a torch to it haha. Nut cracker could be a solid solution though.

Springs will make the most noticeable difference, the old ones wear out and get soft.

Stock height with 265's sounds like a solid all around option, especially for snow driving. By replacing your current springs with stock height you will still gain back an inch or so.

The CDL switch comes in handy and I'd recommend adding one.

So you're saying I might as well do springs at the same as shocks? Seems like the reasonable thing to do, I was planning on doing bushings when I did my whole suspension though as well.

 

[BucketEighty]

@ZackR and I disagree here. I think shocks will make the most difference.

Springs do lose a little bit of spring rate over time but their degradation is minimal (I'd estimate ~5% reduction in free height or spring rate or both) compared to the degradation of shocks which can have their damping performance go to essentially zero (100% reduction in performance). Also none of the aftermarket springs have the same spring rate as the factory springs, they are all stiffer.

I think stock spring rate springs win for all-around performance with a vehicle without added weight (no heavy aftermarket bumpers, no winch, no auxiliary fuel or water tanks, etc). The stock springs will soak up larger bumps without bucking the vehicle and they will allow more articulation in slower four wheeling too.