First car, lx450!

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Post pics of the cracks in suspension bushes.
They shouldn't have any cracks really. But dry deep cracks like that shock bush shows the rubber is toast!

If they are original, having them on the radar for a refresh is a good idea. They get hard and crack and do affect handling, and how direct the steering is
I do feel handling to be mostly solid, but sometimes it feels a bit off which is why I was wondering how much this would make an impact. The rest of the front side bushings other than the shocks are mostly "ok" - definitely far from new, but not horrible cracks like that. First picture is of one of the front control arms (I think that's what it's called), all on the front look like that. Basically all of the rear though are pretty bad, those are pics 2,3,4.

Front:
front.png


Rear:
rear.png

rear2.png

rearshock.png
 
Just below the knuckle seals are 4 nuts on each side. I assume these are caked with crud as well. Once in a while they will work loose and can cause serious steering issues.

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Check Yer Nuts.jpg
 
Just below the knuckle seals are 4 nuts on each side. I assume these are caked with crud as well. Once in a while they will work loose and can cause serious steering issues.

View attachment 3715190
View attachment 3715197

View attachment 3715191
I was really hoping this was it haha. Just checked, I didn't check torque but after doing the diff drain plugs, those are all well above 40ft/lb. Unfortunately they are up to spec.


Got transfer case and front/rear diff fluids exchanged. Transfer case looked pretty okay, but diffs looked pretty gnarly. Don't have it in me to grease the knuckles now, but will do tomorrow. Feels a little smoother driving, less clanking, but maybe just in my head.
 
I was really hoping this was it haha. Just checked, I didn't check torque but after doing the diff drain plugs, those are all well above 40ft/lb. Unfortunately they are up to spec.


Got transfer case and front/rear diff fluids exchanged. Transfer case looked pretty okay, but diffs looked pretty gnarly. Don't have it in me to grease the knuckles now, but will do tomorrow. Feels a little smoother driving, less clanking, but maybe just in my head.
When you decide to buy all the rubber bushings for the suspension, I have found that all rubber products purchased from Partsouq are about 60% cost of domestic purchases.
 
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When you decide to but all the rubber bushings for the suspension, I have found that all rubber products purchased from Partsouq are about 60% cost of domestic purchases.
"When you decide" haha - yeah I found some threads of the full list, >90% of em were on Partsouq and looked like it was maybe 400-500 all in.
 
I do feel handling to be mostly solid, but sometimes it feels a bit off which is why I was wondering how much this would make an impact. The rest of the front side bushings other than the shocks are mostly "ok" - definitely far from new, but not horrible cracks like that. First picture is of one of the front control arms (I think that's what it's called), all on the front look like that. Basically all of the rear though are pretty bad, those are pics 2,3,4.

Front:
View attachment 3715126

Rear:
View attachment 3715127
View attachment 3715128
View attachment 3715129

They don't look terrible. These things ride like a Cadillac, until they don't.

New bushes will tighten up the handling a bit though.
Definitely time for new shock bushes and probably sway bar bushes.

Plan for the main suspension bushes in the future after more urgent things are ticked off
 
"When you decide" haha - yeah I found some threads of the full list, >90% of em were on Partsouq and looked like it was maybe 400-500 all in.
Give Dave Stedman an email. He'll amaze you at the prices he can quote. Make sure you get the "retainers" (washers) with the "cushions" (rubber bushings). Yours will be toast and unusable. The new shocks come with cushions, but not retainers. You need (4) of the -02144 and (2) of the 02141, for each shock.

Oh, and get a new brake master cylinder to booster gasket, while you're at it. Unbolting the master and moving it asides is the only way you're getting that DS shock off/on.
 
Sounds good makes me feel better about the bushings, especially since I've seen posts of people driving around with them just completely disintegrated into many pieces.

My current todo list (excluding greasing knuckles, that's easy):
  • have all of the stuff for sound deadening, just need to do it
  • vacuum leak is still present (waiting for oil cap gasket, no obvious cracks using brake cleaner)
  • transmission drain (maybe only bolt) is definitely stripped - need to pull it out and inspect, see what I could do to fix
  • check wheel play, figure out if anythings loose
  • have O2 sensors, waiting on gaskets, simple swap
  • maybe will just do a full suspension kit, unsure though - seen solid things about OME 861/862 to keep stock height
  • suspension bushings
I do still hear some noises I'm not particularly concerned by, but would like to identify, but first want to inspect wheel play. Last two are obviously a lot lower priority right now.
 
I'll 2nd Dave Stedman aka Japan4x4.

Transaction may take a little longer than partsouq etc
From my experience he will confirm parts are available, shop the best shipping price and check currency conversion rates before billing you.
 
Sounds good makes me feel better about the bushings, especially since I've seen posts of people driving around with them just completely disintegrated into many pieces.

My current todo list (excluding greasing knuckles, that's easy):
  • have all of the stuff for sound deadening, just need to do it
  • vacuum leak is still present (waiting for oil cap gasket, no obvious cracks using brake cleaner)
  • transmission drain (maybe only bolt) is definitely stripped - need to pull it out and inspect, see what I could do to fix
  • check wheel play, figure out if anythings loose
  • have O2 sensors, waiting on gaskets, simple swap
  • maybe will just do a full suspension kit, unsure though - seen solid things about OME 861/862 to keep stock height
  • suspension bushings
I do still hear some noises I'm not particularly concerned by, but would like to identify, but first want to inspect wheel play. Last two are obviously a lot lower priority right now.
Get the front end up on jack stands (the frame, that is), so there is no load on the suspension (wheels off the ground). Have someone watch the steering wheel while you move the relay rod back and forth, through only the free play - don't move the wheels - and see how much the steering wheel moves. That'll tell you how mushy your steering gearbox is.
 
Unbolting the master and moving it asides is the only way you're getting that DS shock off/on.
I have swapped my LF shock with straight wrench and a strap wrench. Not that big of a deal.
 
Give Dave Stedman an email. He'll amaze you at the prices he can quote. Make sure you get the "retainers" (washers) with the "cushions" (rubber bushings). Yours will be toast and unusable. The new shocks come with cushions, but not retainers. You need (4) of the -02144 and (2) of the 02141, for each shock.

Oh, and get a new brake master cylinder to booster gasket, while you're at it. Unbolting the master and moving it asides is the only way you're getting that DS shock off/on.
This is great, thanks - does JDM have different availability for parts that were discontinued? Or when Toyota goes NLA, that's global?

That paper gasket? I already removed the brake booster to do the PHH (dumb, I know) and was able to keep the same paper gasket. Saw a lot of people just making their own, but probably not a bad idea to have a few on hand.
 
I have swapped my LF shock with straight wrench and a strap wrench. Not that big of a deal.
Oh it can be done, but I couldn't get my torque wrench on it that way. And not having the master looking over my work was definitely helpful.
 
This is great, thanks - does JDM have different availability for parts that were discontinued? Or when Toyota goes NLA, that's global?

That paper gasket? I already removed the brake booster to do the PHH (dumb, I know) and was able to keep the same paper gasket. Saw a lot of people just making their own, but probably not a bad idea to have a few on hand.
Dave buys from Toyota. As long as there isn't a regional block on selling (electric antennas come to mind), and it's in the system, he can get it.

NLA usually means the US dealer warehouses don't have any. It does not mean delisted (removed from production procurement). If it's still in the electronic parts catalog (EPC), he can get it, or the replacement part.

Sometimes Toyota changes vendors and the part number changes, and they fail to notify the dealerships. The sunroof is an example. You can't get one for an 80, but you can get one for a 7x, which is the same part, different vendor (and spec - the gasket is not the same). The US dealers can't sell the 70s, so they don't have a listing for their parts, hence you cannot buy one from them for an 80. I have two, in the box, waiting to be installed.

There are also parts which Toyota won't ship from Japan, like the 80 series drip rail trim. You have to buy that from the dealers, and there are no more in the US warehouses. It's still in the EPC, but no one will sell one to you here. You actually have to go to Japan, buy one, and ship it home yourself, in order to get it - but it can be had.

Yes, the paper gasket.
 
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Dave buys from Toyota. As long as there isn't a regional block on selling (electric antennas come to mind), and it's in the system, he can get it.

NLA usually means the US dealer warehouses don't have any. It does not mean delisted (removed from production procurement). If it's still in the electronic parts catalog (EPC), he can get it, or the replacement part.

Sometimes Toyota changes vendors and the part number changes, and they fail to notify the dealerships. The sunroof is an example. You can't get one for an 80, but you can get one for a 7x, which is the same part, different vendor (and spec - the gasket is not the same). The US dealers can't sell the 709s, so they don't have a listing for their parts, hence you cannot buy on from them for an 80. I have two, in the box, waiting to be installed.

There are also parts which Toyota won't ship from Japan, like the 80 series drip rail trim. You have to buy that from the dealers, and there are no more in the US warehouses. It's still in the EPC, but no one will sell one to you here. You actually have to go to Japan, buy one, and ship it home yourself, in order to get it - but it can be had.

Yes, the paper gasket.
Makes sense, I wondered but just wanted to make sure. Seems like Japan would have parts for far longer than us.
 
Makes sense, I wondered but just wanted to make sure. Seems like Japan would have parts for far longer than us.
They do, and so does Australia. The 80s were made in Venezuela for the Central and South American markets long after the 100 series came here.

Hit up Dave. He'll take care of you. Do yourself and him both a favor: get a list of what you need and part numbers. The less work he has to do hunting Easter eggs, the better he'll be able to help you.
 
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Dave buys from Toyota. As long as there isn't a regional block on selling (electric antennas come to mind), and it's in the system, he can get it.

NLA usually means the US dealer warehouses don't have any. It does not mean delisted (removed from production procurement). If it's still in the electronic parts catalog (EPC), he can get it, or the replacement part.

Sometimes Toyota changes vendors and the part number changes, and they fail to notify the dealerships. The sunroof is an example. You can't get one for an 80, but you can get one for a 7x, which is the same part, different vendor (and spec - the gasket is not the same). The US dealers can't sell the 709s, so they don't have a listing for their parts, hence you cannot buy on from them for an 80. I have two, in the box, waiting to be installed.

There are also parts which Toyota won't ship from Japan, like the 80 series drip rail trim. You have to buy that from the dealers, and there are no more in the US warehouses. It's still in the EPC, but no one will sell one to you here. You actually have to go to Japan, buy one, and ship it home yourself, in order to get it - but it can be had.

Yes, the paper gasket.
When you say sunroof in the box, do you mean glass or entire cassette?
 
They do, and so does Australia. The 80s were made in Venezuela for the Central and South American markets long after the 100 series came here.

Hit up Dave. He'll take care of you. DO yourself and him both a favor: get a list of what you need and part numbers. The less work he has to do hunting Easter eggs, the better he'll be able to help you.
Absolutely, I didn't even know this was an option. Still working out what I need but once I get a solid list I'll see what he's got for me. Appreciate the advice.
 
So this transmission drain plug is definitely stripped. I haven't taken the pan off yet because I don't want to not have a car while I wait for parts, so just want to make sure my thinking is proper here. Best thing to do is try an M10 tap, hope it can fix it. If not, use a solid ez-coil (helicoil isn't liquid tight?), I think M10x1.5? Not 100% sure if I should go with M10x1.25 instead though. If so what I'll probably do is order the proper insert, wait for it to come, then do it all at once. Bit worried I won't be able to even get the drain plug out though.
 

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