Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

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So I got the buzzbox and tested it with some of my wife's hair brushes from our salon that had lots of product built up on the handles. Sure enough, 10 minutes in the buzzbox with a little bit of Simple Green and they were clean as a whistle!! Going to take the carb apart tonight/this weekend so that I can start cleaning things and see if I can find any "smoking gun" issues.
 
Yesterday my buddy and I ran to Pick n Pull as a rarity showed up, apparently they had gotten a 85 FJ60 in the yard so we ran to see what was available and scavenge parts. Got there only to find that the thing had been there for a couple weeks and was just about completely picked over. Seeing as it was 50% for toolkit members for the holiday I picked what I could and came away with an $80 bill. Body was in decent shape, rust in the normal areas but had been in a rear end-drivers side crash which probably put it there. Engine and entire drivetrain with axles was gone, front fenders, hood, passenger doors and rear liftgate were gone, headliner and seats were gone and most of the dash was torn apart. All glass but the drivers window was shattered and just about every accessory under the hood was gone.

Ended up walking away with..
- drivers window
- clean exhaust downpipe to just after the EGR port that attaches (someone cut off right there to take cat it looks like)
- Charcoal cannister
- Ignition cylinder
- Drivers door lock
- HIDE-A-KEY with original key in it!!
- various pieces and bolts for like window regulator
- holddowns for the rear seat back on the c-pillars
- Emissions control computer for the ICS

I had hoped that the engine/carb/distributor would still be there but like i said, EVERYTHING was well picked over. Unfortunately, it looks like it had a practically brand new gas tank but the d-bags at PnP decided to put a hole in it with a screwdriver instead of use the tank drain plug. I mean this this and the straps for it looked like they were in perfect shape compared to the rest of the frame (which had some rust but not a whole lot). So pissed about that as I would have taken that in a heartbeat.
 
Since I had pretty much been up since about 4am yesterday morning for dropping the wife off at the airport (she is gone until Tuesday Night) I pulled the new buzzbox into the garage, pulled BeBe in and started working on a few things.
First order of business was to pull the headlight doors and sand them down to repaint. The paint job that I did when I first bought her is starting to flake off finally and the peeling chrome beneath wasn't helping. Took a nylon wheel attachment for my drill to it to get everything off but not go too hard at the plastic and it seems to work a treat. Got a couple coats on the headlight doors yesterday and will do another one or two today, grill is already completed.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

While this was going I was pulling the rear wheels off to work on the bellcranks (didn't take pictures of course) as my passenger side bellcrank was pretty much frozen. The bolts and cylinders that I had grabbed from the yard were in the buzz box to see how well the dilution of the Simple Green PRO HD (purple) would clean them..
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Bolts came out sparkley and new and the cylinders looked pretty good once done. Cleaned them under hot water, per the instructions, and then blew everything out with my compressor.
 
After that the fun part came of disassembling my carb slowly, section by section, and throwing in my solution of Simple Green in the buzzbox. I have the heating element going on it up to 60*c and running for a full 30 minutes. I had created my own little basket out of two sink strainers that I picked up for a couple bucks each at Bed Bath and Beyond to hold all the small parts. And worked between the carb and the bellcranks. Passenger side bellcrank was pretty much frozen (takes a hammer to get it to move) but I was able to disassemble and throw everything into the cleaner. They came out pretty dang cleaner and I was able to sand down the rusted spots on the arm itself and then filed the body as well where the plates that are a disimilar metal are. Eventually I was able to file everything down enough in the body to get the arm to go in pretty easily but still be semi tight. Then I used a drill bit to open up the pin holes in the body that hold the arm to the body just enough so they will press in nicely.

Once that was back together and I checked to make sure everything moved freely and then packed the crap out of it with anti-seize. Now she moves freely without issue. Going to have to bleed the breaks once I finish the drivers side today.

So here are some pics as I have been going through the carb. Got it 2/3rds of the way done so far, finished last night around 10 and called it good. I reassembled the top hat as much as I could to ensure that all parts were going back where they belonged when I threw the fuel bowl section into the cleaner. With the carb body I am actually doing two cleaning cycles with the buzzbox to ensure everything gets nice and clean.
Here are some detailed before pics of the carb as I was getting ready to disassemble.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Here you can really see how varnished and crappy the accelerator pump is on the outside. I dont feel like the one in the Keyster kit was making a good fit but I have an OEM from CityRacer to replace the keyster kit one.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
 
And here are some after the cleaning.....
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Seems like the light in my kitchen casts a really really yellow light, so here is some comparison in the garage with the new LED ballasts from Costco. Much cleaner and brighter light, so glad I grabbed them when they were $20/ea a few weeks ago!.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

You can really see the difference between the two upper pieces of the carb and the base in the background! So far this buzzbox has been well worth the $100 spent on it.
 
Curious to see how them parts turn out...
 
Maybe get the fuel tank after all, a hole is easily fixed and rusted trough is impossible to fix?
 
hj 60 said:
Maybe get the fuel tank after all, a hole is easily fixed and rusted trough is impossible to fix?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately this is a rather large hole with a good dent. Like I said, looks like they took a big ass screwdriver and hammered it through.
 
Man that looks like the way to go for a carb rebuild. I’m really thinking about buying one now. Seeing the results here and on Marc’s stuff is amazing!
 
The base didn't come out with the drastic difference that the two upper parts of the carb did but still pretty damn clean. Left it in a while long as my buddy called to go for a ride right after I put it in for a second go round.
So before...
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

and after...
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Definitely where you see the most difference is the linkages. I am not using any sort of scientific or calculated method of mixing the simple green and water so that may play into how much cleaner the items get. But yes.... @OSS and @NeverGiveUpYota this thing has been more than well worth the money, kinda wished I had grabbed a larger one but oh well this works perfectly for almost anything I have thrown in there.
 
Different metals. Makes sense. Right? Maybe I’m wrong. @mwebfj60 could say for sure.
 
@NeverGiveUpYota you are probably right, still got pretty clean. I did figure out that I need a more concentrated mixture of the Simple Green to have it do a better job of cleaning. Last night, after getting back from shooting, I finished the drivers side bellcrank, however that bellcrank was perfectly fine, aside from the fact that the pin that holds it to the parking brake cable is seized in the arm. No matter what I did I could get it to turn maybe a 1/16 of a turn but that was it. No amount of PBBlaster or hammering would allow it to come free, think @mwebfj60 said he had the same problem with one of his and had to cut it out.

On top of that I found out that my axle seal on that side is leaking slightly so looks like I got a project in the spring when things warm up a bit. Figure that while I replace the axle seals I might as well replace the pinion seal as well seeing as it leaks slightly as well and do the rear diff gaskets.

So here is a question to the experts @orangefj45 @OSS @CaptClose @NCFJ @torfab @beno
My parking brake nut at the lever is adjusted all the way down, my shoes need to be replaced but my question is will that allow me to adjust the parking brake lever so that the nut is not all the way down to the cable end or has my parking brake cable been so stretched out that it needs to be replaced??
 
Ok so new development.. Looks like I sliced the boots on my rear wheel cylinders yesterday. I still have brake pressure but have a slight leak, so looks like time to get new rear wheel cylinders.

OEM are still available it looks like and running about $30/ea but found that the Advics are more expensive?
 
So last weekend I found something on ebay that I have been wanting for BeBe for a bit. Guy had it priced at something like $75 and new are still available (though his said new) at about $48/ea. So I took a chance and made an offer of $55 (had free shipping) and little more than an hour later he accepted. The price and quick acceptance of the item made me question whether it was a) true OEM, or b) in "new" condition. Well it got here today.....
In an OEM box... ok that doesnt necessarily mean anything right....
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Well I ended up being VERY surprised...
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

And #$%@ are these things the sexy new hotness!!!
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Man, I almost don't want to install them they are so pretty! You can definitely tell the color fades over time as these things are so dark they almost look black. Color shows as SHADOW GREY on the labels.
 
Well finally got around to rebuilding the carb last night after having all the parts sitting on my office desk for a couple weeks. Between being sick, work, stuff at the salon, etc. I just haven't had time. Took me about 2hrs to do it with the help of @Pin_Head 's videos on YouTube. This time though the major thing I changed was not using the plastic accelerator pump provided in the Keyster kit. I had ordered an OEM from CityRacer a while back so soaked that in some 10w30 oil for a couple days and then installed. The movement of the pump is super smooth and does not feel sticky or like it wants to bind. Also, the one thing I remember is that it felt like the plastic one had a little play between the side of the skirt and the walls of the cylinder it sits in. With the OEM, which has a leather skirt, it feels much better with no noticeable play.

Oh and almost forgot, also replaced the spring behind the secondary diaphragm per @roadstr6 (or was it @CaptClose??) instructions with the white spring from the holley carb kit. On my carb the secondary diaphragm never moved, Alex's does. So hoping that the lighter spring will help with that on my carb.

Now just to get time to swap that over, but helping the SIL/BIL move this weekend so that aint happening. @HemiAlex 's carb has been running like a champ.
 
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