Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (1 Viewer)

[gregnash]

Well pulled the drums Saturday afternoon to find that I have my drivers side axle seal leaking slightly (inside of that drum was damp with grease/oil) and passenger side was completely full of brake dust. Gave both sides a good bath with some brake cleaner and a wiped down. The drums measured out at 295mm (max is 297) and shoes were still at 5mm so looks like brakes just needed adjustment for the time being. Which saved me about $50 on shoes.

While I was working on the passenger side I noticed that my pinion seal leak has gotten worse. It used to just be slightly wet back there but now it has what seems to be a decent, consistent leak that is caking everything with oil. So looks like a full rear axle rebuild is in my future.

But first things first.... after softball this week I will be swapping over Alex's (@HemiAlex) spare carb he lent me!! We are FINALLY done with the new salon and have officially opened as of Saturday the 3rd! Now I can actually try and get some things done and not worry if the Land Cruiser is down for a couple days.

 

[HemiAlex]

I approve of this.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ok so finally got around to dusting off the welder.
View attachment 1166321
I really needed some practice with the super thin sheet metal of these bodies. After a couple days of watching different videos on Youtube I decided to buy some 22ga steel and do some practicing on small squares. I am definitely getting better but have figured that if there is ANY gap I completely suck at trying to stitch it. For me it is definitely A LOT about watching my heat and watching the gap.

Here is the before pick of the ~4x4 square that I was attempting to replace.. see the nice WIDE gap that I had... yeah that wasn't working out so well
View attachment 1166322

Here is the after.... This is after cutting out the old piece and doing a new piece in there and actually picking up a tip from an Eastwood video where that guy said to spot weld in a backer piece. I did this all around (yeah looks real ugly on the inside) but ended up working out good for me.
View attachment 1166323

Since we are supposed to be having a massive storm coming through in the next couple of days I wanted to get this handled before it hit. Took me about 6hrs yesterday of futzing with everything. But it is done and I am happy with my work. Again, I do not really care about it being "show" quality flat and whatnot because it will get Monstaliner'd in the near future and this only has rust converter on it, not filler or anything.

View attachment 1166325
So that brings me to the next major area of rust that needs to be handled. I found this on the rear passenger door a few weeks ago. Not really sure how to approach as I do not have access to another door and those I have found for "recyclers" well they want $300+ for the doorskin. @reevesci I am looking at your for recommendations on how to fab that spot!!!!

View attachment 1166326
And decided to take BeBe out to work the suspension a little bit. Was sick on Friday but not sick enough that I was just down for the count but enough that I got kicked out of my office. I don't sit still well in the first place and situations like this just make me antsy. So went for a ride.

That last pix looking out at the city/neighborhood seriously looks just like the scene in ET (started watching it last night with Sal) when all the guys are looking for him in the dark with flashlights in the beginning of the movie.

 

[gregnash]

That last pix looking out at the city/neighborhood seriously looks just like the scene in ET (started watching it last night with Sal) when all the guys are looking for him in the dark with flashlights in the beginning of the movie.

LOL... yeah we can get some pretty good vantage points. Unfortunately that road is completely closed now due to the harsh winter we had. Not sure exactly why but they put a huge, steel gate blocking the road that actually went up to one of my favorite fishing spots. Sure due to the run-off and everything that it is completely rutted out and probably has fallen away in some sections.

 

[gregnash]

Well discovered that my radiator is leaking somewhere behind the foam cushioning around the rad support. Looks like I might have a few pinhole sized holes as I have noticed a slight drip in the front of the truck when it is parked for a day or more that I could not locate. This morning I happened to pop the hood to check the date I had on my filter (knew it was getting time for an oil change) and noticed a small line/dribble of fluid and was able to trace back toward the bottom of the rad under the foam.

Looks like she will be going to a rad shop to see if it is salvageable or time for a new rad... is the CSF one still top replacement?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Many of us have gone w/ it. CSF 2708 from Amazon. Almost a year ago it was $293.81.

 

[HemiAlex]

I used a CSF. No issues.

 

[gregnash]

Well found a reputable shop so gonna take off a little early from work today as they are about 45 mins from me. Guy said he would take a look at it and let me know what diagnosis was and said they can DEFINITELY repair old brass core rads (called a couple that said 'Nah we only do aluminum, so we can replace for you for sure.') and when I told him about other shops he said, yeah that is just a repair shop that SAYS they do radiator, big difference.

Also, looks like the CSF has gone up as they are running closer to $400 on Amazon right now.

 

[gregnash]

Well think I have found a good radiator shop. Funny thing is, the guy/owner is younger than me (maybe early 30s) and was the one that opened the shop. Pulled up and he had trucks and cars lined up outside the shop doors where he and his guys were working on multiple vehicles at once.

Ended up that he thought that my upper rad hose was just a bit lose and was leaking on the top. He did find one small area of a pin hole leak on the very top but since there was no new coolant there he said to keep an eye on it and if it seems to start leaking then bring it in and he can zap it while it is still in the truck. Quickly doused the rad with clean water to clean off any pooled coolant, put on another hose clamp, and started her up. Ran her for a minute to see if he could see it leaking and got nothing so he shrugged his shoulders, explained a few things to me and said "really if there is nothing obvious popping out then it was probably that hose/clamp." Keep an eye on it for a few days and see if you see the coolant return along the lip in the rad, if so we know there is a leak elsewhere and we need to take a deeper look." He then shook my hand and sent me on my way, no charge.

SOOOOOooooo, hopefully that is all it was/is and I dont need to worry about anything else. Fingers crossed.

 

[87CRUSR]

Now THAT is customer service.

 

[gregnash]

So seems like everything has been good for the last couple weeks with the radiator. Still have a small leak somewhere but really only see a drip here or there.

With it being summer and prime riding season, plus all the work with the wifes new salon and whatnot I have had ZERO time to do anything to the cruiser.. However this last weekend we went camping for the first time since April last year (normally our first camping trip is April or May and at least once a month through Sept.) and while driving through Kings Beach, Ca I kept hearing this weird metal "tink, tink, tinktinktink, *light crunch* tink, tink" as I was driving in traffic. I could not figure out what it was since it seemed to be only when I was moving at very low speeds. First thing I thought was a toasted rear axle bearing or something in my diff. But again couldn't replicate the sound. When we got to the campsite I crawled under the truck but nothing jumped out at me.

That was until I got home, unloaded the truck (3 days later) and come to find that two sections of apparently bare metal in my "new" exhaust decided they were going to quickly rust through in less than a year and break off. So the hanger for my muffler was not holding the muffler up and then my over axle extension decided to completely rust through and my pipe was actually resting on the leaf spring. So the TINK and crunch i was hearing was the muffler moving around and the pipe hitting the axle itself...

So looks like I will be welding myself up a new section of exhaust in the near future.. LOL
Plan is that in the next couple months I will start working on the spare doors I have to replace my rusted out ones with some new paint and learning how to spray with my compressor. Hopefully I will have a free weekend here soon so I can at least swap over the loaner carb from @HemiAlex to see if I can get my high idle to stop, and my backfire that happens when coasting under load, downhill at about 2k rpm (which I believe is when the ICS is trying ti figure out what to do.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So seems like everything has been good for the last couple weeks with the radiator. Still have a small leak somewhere but really only see a drip here or there.

With it being summer and prime riding season, plus all the work with the wifes new salon and whatnot I have had ZERO time to do anything to the cruiser.. However this last weekend we went camping for the first time since April last year (normally our first camping trip is April or May and at least once a month through Sept.) and while driving through Kings Beach, Ca I kept hearing this weird metal "tink, tink, tinktinktink, *light crunch* tink, tink" as I was driving in traffic. I could not figure out what it was since it seemed to be only when I was moving at very low speeds. First thing I thought was a toasted rear axle bearing or something in my diff. But again couldn't replicate the sound. When we got to the campsite I crawled under the truck but nothing jumped out at me.

That was until I got home, unloaded the truck (3 days later) and come to find that two sections of apparently bare metal in my "new" exhaust decided they were going to quickly rust through in less than a year and break off. So the hanger for my muffler was not holding the muffler up and then my over axle extension decided to completely rust through and my pipe was actually resting on the leaf spring. So the TINK and crunch i was hearing was the muffler moving around and the pipe hitting the axle itself...

So looks like I will be welding myself up a new section of exhaust in the near future.. LOL
Plan is that in the next couple months I will start working on the spare doors I have to replace my rusted out ones with some new paint and learning how to spray with my compressor. Hopefully I will have a free weekend here soon so I can at least swap over the loaner carb from @HemiAlex to see if I can get my high idle to stop, and my backfire that happens when coasting under load, downhill at about 2k rpm (which I believe is when the ICS is trying ti figure out what to do.

Maybe a silly question but have you tested your fuel decel? I believe @mwebfj60 has a detailed explanation how to do it.

 

[gregnash]

Maybe a silly question but have you tested your fuel decel? I believe @mwebfj60 has a detailed explanation how to do it.

Actually I haven't, just really haven't had the time to look into and it wasn't something that I had experienced until I hooked the ECM back up. Since it always seems to happen under load and around 2k rpm I am 90% sure that it has to do with one of two things...
1.) my craptastic aftermarket ICS (the CCOT one) since mine was dead as a door nail, or
2.) my decel system
I remember reading through some posts that somewhere right around 2k rpm is where the ICS and decel system cuts over, especially when there is not active throttle being seen by the system (like climbing a hill or accelerating on a stretch of road). This decel backfire normally happens when I am coasting down a hill on the highway, normally above 40mph and around 2k rpm (never lower than 2k but normally notice it about 2.2k).

But again this all leads me to having time to get it taken care of. Ultimately, I am not as worried about this as getting the rust taken care of before another wet winter, so I am going to start focusing on getting those things taken care of. Actually went and bought myself the little HF purple spray gun as from what I have read, it is a good beginner gun and something that will produce a "good enough" paint job for me. Found a color I like, Rustoleum Deep Slate, but going to have to see if I can have an autobody shop mix it up for me as they only make it in the spray cans currently. Will be using my spare doors as practice for the full job.

 

[mattressking]

In for page 69.

I'll be back at 420.

Now that is off my chest, have you verified the vacuum routing as well for Fuel Cut? It starts at the valve cover side of carb.

I'd also check solder points on emissions computer.

 

[gregnash]

In for page 69.

I'll be back at 420.

Now that is off my chest, have you verified the vacuum routing as well for Fuel Cut? It starts at the valve cover side of carb.

I'd also check solder points on emissions computer.

Actually that is a good point, didn't think about something being routed improperly. Again, comes back to taking the truck down for a few days while I troubleshoot (I work slow). Commuter bike is back up and running so shouldnt be an issue now just need a weekend where I can actually get this taken care of, not going to happen this weekend though.

@HemiAlex and I were talking late last week and he is like "dude just buy parts and store them in your garage and slowly start buying things so you can eventually do an engine swap in a couple years..." While I agree with that methodology and love the ability to spread the cost out over time, I have no SPACE for that... Our house was built in 1963 and I believe the garage was an addition a few years later. Thus we have a expanded 1 car garage. Just dont have the room for that kinda action unless I take over the sunroom, which aint happening unless I want a divorce. Comes down to planning garage time with the wife to get things taken care of an ensuring that we dont have anything of utter need that requires me to have a vehicle.

Not necessarily a bad problem to have, just makes things..... interesting. Anyways, enough complaining about first world problems. The high-idle and occasional backfire is not a problem of immediate concern like taking care of the rust and everything prior to the weather changing or the fact that one side of my stereo has decided to randomly stop working. So time to get the body work taken care of (even if I run primer colored for a while I am find with it as long as the rust is gotten rid of) and then getting the stereo working properly again.

 

[gregnash]

So buddy ended up cancelling on me at the last minute for our Tuesday night ride. Since it was just going to be me and him I said screw it and started working on BeBe as soon as I got home.

Plan for the night, figure out WTF was going on with the stereo and why only the drivers door wasn't working.
Well after pulling the dash and finding nothing behind the dash I pulled the door card and still nothing wrong there..
Started to trace the wire and.... oh wait... what's that?!
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Apparently as some point the wire between the shell and the door decided to snap completely in half (was about as brittle as a twig). So I then set to the task of tracing new wire through the door, through the body (REMOVE THE GROMMET, makes things so much easier). then routing through the dash to the stereo.

Then while I was in there I decided I was going to set to the task of fixing the broken console surround. Ended up playing hookie today and played with the surround to get it all glued back together with some plastic weld. Plan is to sand it down once it sets for a day and then repaint everything.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

While I was at it I decided i was going to try to reinforce the holes with some small washers glued to the back side. Think that inside the hole from the front would be better but getting something the exact right size for in there would be interesting to say the least.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

As you can see mine was broken pretty bad with the last pic/piece barely holding on by a thread. Next project will be some L-channel to fix the rear lip between the body and the lower gate.

 

[gregnash]

So here is the final fix after gluing, sanding, painting, etc... The color is a bit different, more than I originally thought so I may respray it if I can find a good piece to compare against. The gray is actually just plain old gray primer from Rustoleum with a Rustoleum clear sprayed over it. Black is plasti-dip (only black I had around).

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

If you look at the grey compared to the other pics you will see it has more of a green tint to it making it quite different. I will be installing tonight and then will do an interior pic against the gray of the rest of the dash for better comparison.

 

[gregnash]

And here is the final product installed... much better representation of how different the color is... Debating now if I want to pull it again, do some sanding and then re-apply a more "gray" color...
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
And that crack is filled, just a bit of a paint run next to it and then not completely sanding off all the glue/epoxy.

 

[gilamonster]

I don't think I could stand that much difference in color myself. I'd have to repaint it.

 

[gregnash]

I don't think I could stand that much difference in color myself. I'd have to repaint it.

Yeah it is eating at me, but not going to have the time for a little bit so it is going to have to stay. Other option is that I leave the switches attached for those things I need, like the cig-lighter for charging and rear wiper switch while I resand and paint.