Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

[gregnash]

I have a Summit Racing 2.5" muffler on my FJ60. Headers --> 2.5" Cat --> Summit Muffler. Mild if you stomp on it, not noticeable on the highway. Mine for $28 IIRC. lol

A @klinetime574 I thought you had a Flowmaster 50????? Don't mind a bit more of a V8 rumble to the exhaust just don't want something that is going to be super annoying/loud or drone at highway speeds. Right now, 90% of my time is spent in city driving so not like she is hitting highway speeds often. Hopefully will be cleared tomorrow to be out of the boot so I can start actually getting around normally.

While I am driving, normal process for the last couple weeks has been;
- Crutch walk to vehicle
- open back door
- throw $#%&ing crutch in back seat
- spend 2 minutes undoing straps on boot
- fight with Velcro that magically found something to attach to while trying to remove foot
- remove foot from boot
- throw $@%*ing boot in back seat with crutch
- close door
- hop to front door
- get in and drive
- get to location and repeat first 7 steps in reverse order

 

[micruz60]

Yeah those walker boots suck for driving, lol

At least you've healed well.

 

[klinetime574]

@gregnash I've had the Summit Racing Muffler since the 2F was rebuilt ~7 years ago.

Here is the most recent video I have of it. No longer running the Weber carb, steering wheel wrap has been changed, 4 speed is gone, and my hood has less paint on it now



That was shot with a GoPro on my head with the windows down. Sound may not be the greatest. Poke around on my channel at all the other old videos. I think the muffler has changed since it was new though.

 

[gregnash]

@klinetime574 A, actually I have poked around on your channel quite a bit when looking for sound clips. In the video above your truck sounds more like a ricer than a rod to me, hence why I am looking more at the multi-chambered muffler. I don't know I keep going back and forth on them, ultimately it will come down to what I pick up at the time, and I may take a look at Summit's return policy. If they let you return "used" parts then I may try one and if I don't like it after a bit then return for the other.

 

[klinetime574]

@gregnash I'm all about that ricer yolo life, you dig?

Good idea on the possible return policy.

 

[HemiAlex]

He has a header, it will be louder than the manifold by far.

 

[gregnash]

Well no dice on the return policy... But then again it is $40ish, while not throw away money as long as it is not stupid loud or annoying I can deal with the pricetag. And all told will be better than spending the $250+ for a shop to do for me.

And @HemiAlex, true on the header. Exhaust note will definitely be different. This is one of those times where I hate being an analyst, I get so deep into research and then get analysis paralysis. So far, I like the fact that Thrush (apparently made by Walker) and Dynomax both have exhaust clips on their websites. I like the note of their Welded exhaust, specifically the Dynomax Ultra Flo which is like $50 most places.

On a side note, I played with the truck a little last night. Got under and looked at the exhaust to see where and how I would do the new system. Found that not only is the muffler cracked at the outlet point of but also at the inlet (not as badly though at inlet). Then on top of that it looks like the PO that replaced the CAT did so with a larger cat than called for so there is a big lap weld that looks questionable. At this point I am wondering about the quality of the CAT and whether it is in good enough condition. Would really REALLY like to drop the entire exhaust to get ride of the final emissions pipe that is blocked off badly by me when I desmogged. But I don't really want to have to deal with replacing all the gaskets for flanges and what not as at that point I might as well replace a bunch of stuff which means more money. Damnit I wanted this part to be a CHEAP and QUICK fix!!!

On top of that I went to rehook up my carb fan since the little nut that holds the sensor wire on had gone missing a while back. Well went to grab the sensor to see what size socket I needed to get it off then take to the hardware store to purchase a new nut.... Low and behold there is no sensor in the mounting point!!!! Apparently my sensor came off at some point, so now the carb fan is just grounded to the body..

 

[gregnash]

So I ordered the 2.5" Thrush Welded exhaust with clamps today and should have by end of week. Will place another order for the mandrel bent pieces once o figure out what the layout will be like.

 

[cruisermatt]

I'm doing the same thing on mine right now. Wish I could tell you what muffler I bought but all I remember was that it was one of the cheapest ones on Summit. I think it was $30. And I'm pretty sure it's Summit brand.

I'm doing all 2.5" with 2" downpipe (3FE has two).

Now that I think about it I have a set of Man-a-Fre 2F headers I could let go cheap.. Let me know if you're interested.

 

[gregnash]

LOL... thanks @cruisermatt but no headers for me. I need the heat riser for the winter.
If it was Summit Branded and only $30 that is probably their turbo or welded (both about the same price). Plan for me at this point is a 2" to 2.5" adapter/coupler (2"/2.5" ID) then the muffler. This is to make things easily removable for the time being (yes I got stainless steel u-bolt clamps). Then when I get a weekend I can go play at my BILs house I will spec out the rest with flanges and 2.5" pipe. Couple of the guys recommended this company and to get one of the builder kits as they are fairly cheap and good steel. Figure that the bends around the rear shock are going to be the most complicated to figure out. Then from there it will terminate like it had, behind rear drivers wheel on the panel closer to the wheel probably. Also splurged and got a 2.5" chrome tip to put on it (all of $12 from Amazon) and figure what the hell.

 

[klinetime574]

I kinda regret getting an exhaust tip put on mine, but mostly because the welds are SERIOUS booger welds. Amazingly the rest of the exhaust doesn't leak. You get what you pay for! The whole job for me was less than $300 at a little shop on the corner back in Belton.

I should probably clear that up. They did the Cat --> back. I gave them the old tailpipe to mimic the bends. All 2.5" for me.

 

[cruisermatt]

Save your money and don't buy that kit.

When I'm done I'm going to be around $100 all-in. Including the muffler and three sets of flanges. And mine is a little more complicated because of the 3FE manifolds.

Buy:
x1 - 3-4' of straight pipe (~10-15$)
x2 - 180 degree bends with some straight length (~12-15$ each)
X1 - muffler
x3 - sets of flanges (I bought the two-bolt ones, includes gaskets and hardware, ~7-9$ a set)
x1 - of those braided 4" flex sections. I'm putting mine at the end of the downpipe.

You can cut up the 180 parts to make the 90 degree bend down from the exhaust manifold and whatever you have left over you can use to go back from the muffler and over your rear axle.

I put a flange on the downpipe, the straight pipe, and both sides of the muffler. Here's some pretty bad pictures of what I have so far.
With the 2.5" 2-bolt flanges it uses both the stock hangers.

I still need to fabricate my y-pipe/downpipe but you should get the idea.

I put a lot of thought into mine I hope it helps you out.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks @cruisermatt that does help me out. Never thought about just purchasing one 180* bend and calling it good as that should cover all the necessary angles for the rear section around the shock. At this point I am just doing from the small intermediate pipe between the Cat and the Muffler back. Eventually down the road when I get my own welder I will fabricate the rest from the down bike back including a new 49state compliant cat (as I am pretty sure mine is the OG).

Oh and any chance you would be willing to throw those same pics and description (copy & paste the post) into the Aftermarket Exhaust theorycraft thread?

 

[gregnash]

So I suddenly have noticed a strange issue but want to get some feedback on it.
Recently while I was doing the ground to the carb fan I decided I was going to pull a spark plug to see what they look like. In doing so I ended whacking my elbow on my busman light controller box, hard enough to bruise my elbow, and since then I have gotten a weird issue where the power to my radio randomly resets.

This is truly random as it normally happens when I start the truck up. I initially thought it was because of the cold (recently dropped to the 30s at night) and was thinking there was more draw somewhere. But today when I went to hit my blink in the morning, at 5:40am at 30*, I randomly hit the brights flasher function on the stalk and the radio power reset?! I was able to replicate it for a short while where flashing my brights would cause it to reset and then it suddenly stopped.

I have a hard time believe that a whack to the fuse/relay box like that would screw with a fuse enough to cause it to do something like this and all connections were crimped together well WITH adhesive coated shrink wrap (so shouldn't be coming apart). My question is, it seems like this is related to either the grounding of the carb fan and/or the turn signal stalk.

When I get home tonight I will select another ground point for the carb fan, however can anyone confirm that the radio power from the ignition is connected to the control module on the wheel (stalks)? Unfortunately I can't pull up the documents at work today for some reason.

 

[gregnash]

Well thanks to my constant viewing of all things MUD I was able to come across a steal of a deal on some almost brand new EURO Mirrors.
So quick message to @Grumpyhead12, quick exchange of money and I received the aforementioned mirrors today!!!

So stoked to have these as this is one of the first and most wanted upgrades I have been after. Had a nice pair of 62 electric mirrors that I grabbed a while back on here that were fading and peeling and they have served me well but the EUROs have always been on my list, just out of my immediate price range.

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Hoping to get some time with a welder this weekend to get things started on the new exhaust too. Always and interesting morning when I start her up and she is pretty quiet and then after the muffler has warmed up and things move, I can hear her inside my house!!!

 

[gregnash]

So while I was checking fluids under the hood tonight I noticed something, apparently my PCV hose is completely the wrong type (was just supposed to be non-collapsing hose by the foot from LAPS) and is collapsing almost completely restricting the flow.

Before I spend the money on the "proper" hose from SOR, which is $35 plus shipping, does anyone have a good recommendation for something from my LAPS? I checked old emails and apparently the hose is NLA so either I have to find a good used, LAPS alternative or spend the money on the SOR ones.

 

[cruisermatt]

Dude just go and look at what they have. I'm sure there's something that will work or can be easily cut-to-fit. I do this all the time with heater hoses especially for custom engine swaps.

 

[gregnash]

Dude just go and look at what they have. I'm sure there's something that will work or can be easily cut-to-fit. I do this all the time with heater hoses especially for custom engine swaps.

Oh yeah I know... I was just wondering if anyone had found something already that did the job.. Apparently when the guys sold me this hose it was their parts catalog replacement (went and talked with oreilly last night). I was there right about closing time for them so didn't get to rummage through the hoses and the guys was less than helpful. Looks like I am going to have to head over to NAPA this weekend and talk with the older guys there to see if they can help me find something, that is why I constantly give them my business.

 

[gregnash]

So since I had yesterday off I spent the afternoon with my BIL at his place using the welder. We had lots and lots of fun figuring out hose things were going to line up, coming up with angles and what not. Had some fun welding up the flanges on the muffler and connection pipes, hit a few snags but were able to work through it. Unfortunately, he has two little ones the oldest will be 2yrs old on the 15th of November and the little one is 6 months old, we had to cut thing short at about 7:30pm last night. I got the main pieces I wanted welded together and then got to futz with angles and pipe and what not today for a good portion of the day.

It is still not done, eventually will terminate just behind the rear wheel coming between the spring and frame like stock. But for now she is functional and sounds good to me. Definitely deeper than I thought but manageable. For those that are trying to decide between a baffled muffler (ala Flowmaster 50series type sound) and a turbo style, I would probably err on the side of the turbo until you hear the baffled first hand. I like it, and know that once it is terminated properly it will tune down some but she is definitely "throaty".... LOL

IMG_3091 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

IMG_3087 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

IMG_3088 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

IMG_3090 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

 

[gregnash]

Took some video with my Canon EOS-M and had the Decible Meter Pro app going on my phone to show what it sounds like. That is in the works as I was having some issues at first and need to combine the videos. I will post up once it is done editing and loading to Youtube.

Here's the video....


On top of the exhaust work I finally got rid of the drivers window tint. It was that old, DIY purple garbage that was flaking and peeling around the edges. Took me all of an hour to clean it off but definitely worth it as it was getting bad enough that it was hard to see through the haze in the morning when leaving for work, I leave the house at about 20 to 6, so still o'dark thirty.