Build Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

[gregnash]

Yeah kinda sad as I got used to hearing the nice throaty roar of it when taking off from a stop light. Now it is much more mild. Almost as quiet as the stock exhaust was. Will try to grab a new video tomorrow during the day.

 

[gregnash]

Finally got around to ordering a new steering stabilizer for the truck. Mine seemed to be a little slow and just didn't feel like it was absorbing much. I purchased the ProComp ES2000 from Amazon that showed it as a direct fit, however that was incorrect. One of the two mounting bolts actually worked (in either hole) while the other was too short threadwise to actually get through the TRE or mount on the frame. So instead of going through the return process or whatever I just went down to the hardware store and grabbed a long Grade 8 bolt (1/2 by 13 about 3" long) and the requisite washers and nut. Used that to mount it to the TRE side and all is good now. Don't notice much of a difference but at least it is updated now. No pics.

Taking BeBe to go Christmas Tree hunting this weekend with the family. This has been a family tradition for my family since I can remember but will be the first year taking the Land Cruiser (there has always been something that was an issue, last year was chasing overheating which lead to the HG replacement and head work). While the wife isn't overly thrilled about potentially being in the colder LC vs. our toasty 4Runner with butt warmers we are still taking her. When I do new seats (either re-upholster current or replace completely) they will definitely have aftermarket butt warmers!

 

[gregnash]

Ok more of a "placement" question than anything else...

Back when I had Fourrunner do his battery cable kit for me I had him add the connection between the ALT and POS battery terminal. I never actually got around to do this but since I am working on things here and there now I would like to get this hooked up.
My question is, this connection go direct from the post that is on the back of the ALT to the POS battery cable, with a fuse between correct? On the back of my ALT there are only two connections, a green plug and then another post type connection, which is where I am assuming the new line will connect.

On top of that, do I leave the old connection still attached at the ALT or can I just drop off? I am assuming that the green plug in the back of the ALT is what tells the volt meter in the cab what is going one. But before I completely disconnect things I want to be sure.

Also, I ordered a "Defroster Tab and Grid Repair Kit" from FrostFighter on Monday. Just got notification that it will be shipping. Plan is that I will hopefully have by this weekend and can pull the upper gate off to hit a couple rust spots on Sunday and then deal with the defroster stuff. Figured that $55 shipped for the KIT was easier to start with vs. trying to find a good, working rear glass to replace for cheap and risk the glass being broken in transit. I have checked all the local PnP type place within a 100 mile radius and no one has any 60s or 62s. And I definitely need to get this fixed ASAP as we have been hitting the 20s at night with tons of frost in the morning, so it would be nice not to have to scrap.

Other order of business after that will be to figure out why my heater is still just "warm/hot"... Something I have been combating for a number of years. When I first purchased the truck I can remember having the heater cranked and it being "nuclear" hot inside the truck, to the point where my wife actually complained one day about how hot it was. Then my t-stat went about a year later and I have never gotten it quite that hot again. System has been burped completely but always seems to need coolant here and there (even after having rebuilt the head this year). When the head was rebuilt I went ahead and replaced with new OEM t-stat just for posterity sake but again, it has never gotten super hot. When I get home tonight I will take some vent temps with my temp gun and see what she is really outputting. Only thing I can think of is that my heater core is blocked and thus not truly warming up, though I have no leaks in the cab or outside (at least that I know of).

 

[CuCruiser]

AHA! you're going to do the frostfighter! Very interested in how that goes for you. I was thinking that it might be a good idea to put one of their timer units somewhere in the circuit. I think mine got left on all day or something, as the meter readings I get just don't make any sense compared to the FSM; I think it's just cooked.

I just did my steering stabilizer too. I got a rancho from the local parts store not paying attention to the fact that it did not come with the appropriate mounting hardware. I ended up buying a new stock-style monroe stabilizer, just to get the right tapered hardware. Anybody need one? Only a few days later did I see that CCOT sells the hardware separately for stabilizers. HFS "Hell For Stout" Formulated for Land Cruisers!

On the alternator, I believe you would just add it on top of the stock wiring, for the extra "bandwidth" to borrow terminology. I upgraded that section recently and took apart the harness going to the alternator. I found a wire spliced midway between the battery positive and the alternator B terminal. Kinda funny, can only figure that that spliced-in wire is for the dash meter, reading alt output. That's why you retain the stock wire, unless you replicate that connection.
The green connector is for the regulator, and excitation. I think.

Have fun picking out that perfect tree! Perfect job for BeBe without a doubt!

 

[gregnash]

I am doing the repair kit that comes with the copper paint for the grid lines and then their tab bonding adhesive since my main problem is my negative tab broke off completely. So no, I didnt get the full kit that comes with the new gridlines, that will be the next step if this doesn't work for whatever reason..

As for the steering stabilizer... see that one tapered piece is what did not fit for me. I could not for the life of me figure out where it was supposed to go other than into the steering stabilizer but it did not even come out of the width of the stabilizer (no threads exposed). Seems to be working just fine.

And for the alternator, I figured out what I needed to do... But I did completely disconnect the existing system wire, which it sounds like you are saying leave it? I was able to get a good, consistent reading when driving. However, it still dips down to 12v when I have the heater going full blast and the lights on at idle. Was hoping that it would resolve that issue. One weird thing was that with the stock wiring I took a measurement with my DVM at the battery and got about 12.5v. Then when I upgraded to the new wire and 150a fuse I now get closer to 14v (this is while the truck is running). So seems like the original wiring was seriously restrictive. I am gonna run it for a couple days and see how things turn out but so far seems good..... well nothing exploded or sparked or anything like that so I am a happy camper!!

 

[gregnash]

Forgot to mention that I used my temp gun and checked the heat coming out of the side vents. Max it hit was 103 and this was after driving around running errands and whatnot. Does that sound normal or low? Again she puts out decent heat but not like it used to so wondering if I am clogged somewhere or something.

 

[Homey55]

That "Our Land" video was awesome, thanks for posting! If you're ever in Ashland bring your bike and give me a call!

 

[gregnash]

That "Our Land" video was awesome, thanks for posting! If you're ever in Ashland bring your bike and give me a call!

I will try to remember.. Buddy that I ride with a lot wants to head up there, just didn't have time this year. Plus the wife has taught in nearby Medford so the next time she does I am definitely taking the bike!

 

[gregnash]

Pics of the installed direct line for the alternator with installed 150a fuse.. I went ahead and reconnected the stock line along with the new for charging the batt from the alt. That is unless someone can tell me why I shouldn't (like will it overvolt the battery?)

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

 

[tmxmotorsports]

When I do the big three I leave all the factory wires hooked up and just add in the 1/0 from the alternator,chassis ground and body ground. It won't hurt anyting to leave them hooked up.

 

[gregnash]

When I do the big three I leave all the factory wires hooked up and just add in the 1/0 from the alternator,chassis ground and body ground. It won't hurt anyting to leave them hooked up.

Thanks @tmxmotorsports I appreciate it.. My main concern is that when I have EVERYTHING running and am sitting at a stop light my volt meter drops to 12v. Now I know that the stock gauge is not very accurate but I hate seeing that so that is why I wanted to be sure that it would not be an issue.

What I am glad about seeing is the fact that I went from having 12.57v at idle with JUST the stock charging wire to close to 14v at idle with the upgraded. I have never had any issues with the truck not wanting to start or the battery giving me issues so hopefully this will just help increase the life of the battery. Especially since Sears no longer sells the DieHard Platinum anymore.

 

[CuCruiser]

Damn that's a big wire. Outta do the job. I guess if you're getting a reading at the meter w/o the stock wire, there goes my theory. I just put in a new alt, toyota reman regulator, battery, terminals and redid that charge wiring, and I'm still seeing the same drop at idle that you are. But it doesn't take much more rpm to bring it up so I upped my idle just a wee bit, and that helped. I also went LED for the running lights to take some load off, and that helped also. Now I only get a drop with the headlights + heater + wipers. Sounds like this is about as good as we can expect with the 55A alt.

The tapers on the rancho hardware was too fat. dunno if that was your issue.

Still interested to see how you get on with the frostfighter kit, general impressions etc. Keep up the good work!

 

[tmxmotorsports]

There is a section in the fsm that shows how to test and repair the rear defrost strips. Doing the big three will improve the voltage but it will not change that the alternators in our trucks just don't have enough ass.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah the tapered hardware was the same for the ProComp, tapered section didnt go anywhere and the threads were too short to even stick out enough to thread anything on. So far the last couple days it has seemed fine with the Grade 8 bolt and hardware. I am keeping an eye on it to ensure it doesnt crack anything on the TRE.

And I think you are right @CuCruiser and @tmxmotorsports, the little old 55a Toyota alt just doesn't have quite enough oomph to push things, ESPECIALLY after 30yrs of corrosion and cut/spliced wires, etc. I thought for some reason there was a 65a one but I could be wrong. One day I may see if I can find an old school rod shop that will rewind the alternator for higher output, don't want to go with the GM single wire as I have read too many guys having issues.

The Frostfighter repair kit should be here on Monday but won't have time until next weekend at earliest to really mess with it (while the wife is out of town). I will post up some pics when I get it, again this isn't their full grid kit, this is just the tab repair/bond and line repair/paint kit. So we will see how things work out. I plan on hitting the tab bond first and then testing the lines for breaks. If enough lines have breaks then I will more than likely just pull the entire upper gate off and go through the process of repainting ALL the lines. Gotta take the door off eventually to hit some rust spots so might as well do it then.

 

[gregnash]

So after last weekends trip up over the mountain to go Christmas Tree hunting in Apple Hill, I finally had to stop and grab gas today. The gauge was reading just above the redline so I probably had a few gallons left. I know that the FSM states that the tank is 23.875 gallons, or something to that sort, but I have never put more than 18-19 gallons in the truck. Then again I have never run it to completely empty either.
After the trip and filling up today, I showed 208.4 miles on the odo which was started at the gas station before we headed out. That is the most I have ever gotten out of a tank and was really stoked to see what my mileage would change to on my Fuelly app.

With the fill up today my current mpg for 90% hwy 10% city dropped from 10.4mpg to 9.4mpg!!!! So I did the calculation myself and show that I got 11.24mpg for this tank, which aint great but still I was pulling from 4500' to over 9k' and back. Slightly disappointed in these numbers as I was hoping that I had hit the 15mpg mark....
However this is the hwy miles I have put on the truck since a couple years ago when I went over the hill to Georg's swap meet. I am pretty religious about tracking my fill-ups so it is not like I missed one in there and most of the mileage that I put on the truck is around town stuff, mostly consisting of the 2.5 miles to work and back each day. Oh well, such is the life of a cruiser owner I guess.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

My last tank in Poppy was 15.23 mpg 6200' and about equal highway and in town.

J

 

[gregnash]

My last tank in Poppy was 15.23 mpg 6200' and about equal highway and in town.

J

See that makes me think that I got something going on. Normal tanks are about 10-20%hwy and 80-90%city, which would seem right for about an average of 10.4mpg. Granted I am not heavy on the gas or anything like that but I expected better mileage.. If I remember correctly the fuel screw is only 3 turns out so not super far out and I don't feel like I have excess fuel coming out of the exhaust or anything like that.

Makes me wonder if I am calculating wrong using the app or myself.. (figured for last trip 208 miles x 18.543 gallon fill-up = 11.21mpg). I have never really paid much close attention to the mpgs simply because I always do a lot of city driving, 5 miles min each day, and then in the morning is usually a 10-15 minute warm up with the choke pulled 1/2 way (during colder months).

Now this has my OCD going nutz... am I calculating this wrong or am I really getting that horrible of gas mileage? She has run better than she has since I got her and really I don't hammer on her. Most of the driving for the trip was kept around 2750rpm depending on what I was doing (uphill vs. downhill) so she was being pushed but not incredibly bad, at least that I thought.

I have been thinking for quite a while about doing a TBI install on the 2F but my concerns have been that I do not really know what my compression is (haven't ever really checked properly) and I know that some/most of the systems require that you have higher compression in all cylinders. I was looking at doing it the full DIY route with the Downey adapter (as he still sells it on ebay) and everything I have read notes that people do note better gas mileage out of it (not to mention better power response).

 

[gilamonster]

I'm not sure what size tires you have, but if they taller then stock. Are you adding in the change for the odo correction? With 265/75r16's, mine is 10% off. I usually get 14.5-15.3 on mixed rural roads and city.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

I track MPG with an App called FillUp on all my vehicles. With my gears and tires I have to correct the mileage by .934. For all of 2016 the max I got was 16.747 and the worst tank was 9.639. The average was 12.995 with the entire month of April and September skewing the numbers pulling a trailer. If I were to discount those months I would be in the 15 GPM range. My 40 with the exact same engine with different gearing and tires is very similar. Right in line with what many post here including @gilamonster

 

[KWalkerM]

Eh if you are running the 11-14 mpg mark I wouldnt worry about it. Sticker numbers were 12 & 14 IIRC from the dealership and thats unloaded and stock. I was getting 9mpg in the v8

60s are about as aerodynamic as a brick anyways.


You have that battery issue pop up again lately or did clean terminals work???