Builds Finally doing it, 4" lift on my LX (1 Viewer)

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Well done. Truck looks awesome and I'm sure many folks will benefit from this great info.

What size tires are those on there now? 285's?
 
Ground to top of tire they currently measure 31.5" but they are 305-70-16 so they should be closer to 33s. Maybe when brand new and with more air they are 32 maybe 32.5
 
It looks great but your going to need 35's..then maybe gears?

315s for sure. I need to decide which brand. Haven't even started researching.

Gears I'm going to hold off on until after the SC goes in. The harness needs to be replaced before the SC install. I have a feeling gears may not be necessary but we shall see. If I was going to break apart the 3rds then might as well install lockers while there.
 
Some new lift porn

Holy **** ...that looks fin awesome ... :cool::cool::cool::cool:

can't wait to get mine lifted ...


is there any info on your rear bumper ??
 
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Ground to top of tire they currently measure 31.5" but they are 305-70-16 so they should be closer to 33s. Maybe when brand new and with more air they are 32 maybe 32.5

Maybe you stated this already but what is the change in height from before and after? I think you're netting close to 6" of lift? This is the number that folks would be interested in I think.
 
I've never experienced a driveline vibe before so I might not know one if I experienced one.

If anything like mine, just ask your wife, or better yet, look for the "O" face as a signifier.

Slee 4" Medium front and rear

You don't happen to have the extended coil lengths, do you?

I could call Christo, but if I hear "I told you so" one more time, I'm gonna blow a fuse....and he's every right to exclaim.
 
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Maybe you stated this already but what is the change in height from before and after? I think you're netting close to 6" of lift? This is the number that folks would be interested in I think.

There's numbers posted here on Mud from of 19.5" front and 20" rear from a OE with non-saggy coils.

Those are hub to flare, so add "lift" height to and that's what should be netted.

My 4" netted 25" front, 26" rear..........
 
So the sway bar options for the rear...
The stock sway bar links are adequate, I suppose, but they are really rinky-dink considering everything else on the truck is so over built. Now Slee's solution is to use a new drop mount that takes the same bent metal bracket but making it longer, but it reuses the stock link. I really liked it and though it was the way we were going to go with it. That was until we brought out LANDTANK's HD extended sway bar links. There was no decision. It was very obvious that the HD extended links were overbuilt and just looked right. Happy with that decision. The OEM sway bar link are very thin. In fact just removing the bar was all it too to bend the bracket. No way I was going to reuse it.

Just as a FYI, the reason we don't extend the links, but rather drop the mount is that in some cases, with an extended link, when drooped out, the link can "invert" like when a shackle for a leaf spring "invert" and then break the link. Not saying this is common or with the extension on yours it would happen, just that saw that early on when we developed the suspensions.
 
attached is a drawing laying out both an extended link and extended bracket setup.

The black artwork is both setups in their neutral position and the red is where they would reach the point of inverting.

They are simplistic but does give a good idea of how each perform.

You'll notice two things different between the two at the point of inverting.

On the extended link drawing the axle will need to droop just over an inch more than the extended bracket design to reach the point of inverting.

On the extended bracket design the angle at the bushing where it attaches to the bracket has to reach a greater angle than that of the extended link.

It's possible that there is enough binding at that bushing to restrict the axle's ability to droop and avoid inverting.

I'll keep an eye on it.
 

Attachments

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attached is a drawing laying out both an extended link and extended bracket setup.

The black artwork is both setups in their neutral position and the red is where they would reach the point of inverting.

They are simplistic but does give a good idea of how each perform.

You'll notice two things different between the two at the point of inverting.

On the extended link drawing the axle will need to droop just over an inch more than the extended bracket design to reach the point of inverting.

On the extended bracket design the angle at the bushing where it attaches to the bracket has to reach a greater angle than that of the extended link.

It's possible that there is enough binding at that bushing to restrict the axle's ability to droop and avoid inverting.

I'll keep an eye on it.

I may be missing it as I'm on the phone, but I don't see the drawing.
 
Notes: Honey-do list

Just making a note of the things I still need to do to get this lift complete:
• Install DIY Panhard kits for front and rear
- cut out 4" section on both and weld in place
• Order and install new Tie-rods
• Install new draglink
• Install OME steering damper
• What to do with LSPV??
• Make a small bracket for the e-brake to raise it on the diff side
• Need to order and install front and rear bump stops, suggestions?
• Finish extending the diff vents to the engine bay
• Order and install new front LCA bushings
• Order and install new rear LCA bolt/washer/nut
• Find and apply torque to all rear control arms
• Recheck torque and tightness on all bolts after 1000 miles
• Zip tie a few hoses that need to be tied back down
• Alignment after its all said and done
• Sell off the stuff I don't need/didn't use

EDIT: • Install rear lower shock mount protector

Simple list :flipoff2:

Am I missing anything?
 
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I highly recommend purchasing a lifetime alignment from Firestone. It pays for itself after the second time.
 
Just making a note of the things I still need to do to get this lift complete:
• Install DIY Panhard kits for front and rear
- cut out 4" section on both and weld in place
• Order and install new Tie-rods
• Install new draglink
• Install OME steering damper
• What to do with LSPV??
• Make a small bracket for the e-brake to raise it on the diff side
• Need to order and install front and rear bump stops, suggestions?
• Finish extending the diff vents to the engine bay
• Order and install new front LCA bushings
• Order and install new rear LCA bolt/washer/nut
• Find and apply torque to all rear control arms
• Recheck torque and tightness on all bolts after 1000 miles
• Zip tie a few hoses that need to be tied back down
• Alignment after its all said and done
• Sell off the stuff I don't need/didn't use
• Post more pics of my wife here

Simple list :flipoff2:

Am I missing anything?

:flipoff2:
 
I highly recommend purchasing a lifetime alignment from Firestone. It pays for itself after the second time.

Hmm, thanks for the reminder. I may have that already with Chatsworth Tire where I bought the Toyos. :hmm:
 

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