Builds Finally doing it, 4" lift on my LX (1 Viewer)

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NLXTACY said:
Well after looking over the shaft I realized the u-joints are used. I thought they were new u-joints. The listing wasn't specific but it did say "inspected". Guess I should have asked. No worries. I will get some new ones ordered up and replace all u-joints at one time. I will modify the first post so others know.

Anyone know off hand if the joints are the same for the Tacoma shaft front and the LC rear? If not, what year Tacoma shaft is used or better yet, part number for the joint?

I wouldn't worry about it, but Slee has the u joints for the ball and claw. Not for that specific application, since Toyota lists the drive shaft as expendable.

Rick wouldn't send junk, and they may have 100k left. For the money, can't beat it. $800 gets new joints all the way around, and $1,200 gets the holy grail of drive shafts which may be on the agenda for me, but for the money, the LandTank shaft is a winner.

Before spending a penny more on, I'd install the shaft and run it.


Douglas S said:
You can't service the double cardan? You can on Jeeps and domestic vehicles, surely you also can on a Toyota?

Not according to Toyota. Only two companies in the entire industry have a replacement u joint, and if someone wants to prove me wrong on that, list them out, because I'm hunting a solution that a DC DS isn't capable of.

MJ80 said:
The point of the IBP not functioning in 4" or less is interesting but i really cannot see that being an issue, i did consider it myself but after extensive discussion with the various builders and retailers we concluded that the IBP's function would not be inhibited regardless of shock length as long as your running it in a lift of proportionate size.

For clarification, my statement was based on conjecture, and prefaced as such.

Interested to hear your review.

Are you working with Autocraft?
 
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I've yet to see a DC on a Tacoma shaft need work even when neglected.

Surely they will wear out eventually.

Not according to Toyota. Only two companies in the entire industry have a replacement u joint, and if someone wants to prove me wrong on that, list them out, because I'm hunting a solution that a DC DS isn't capable of.

Interesting. It's a fairly simple task on a Dana driveshaft. I've done it a couple of times when repurposing junkyard shafts.
 
Surely they will wear out eventually.

I'm convinced that with regular servicing they will last the life of the truck.

People often say how Spicer joints are easily gotten anywhere. There is no money in stocking parts that don't wear out and won't sell.

So plenty of Spicer parts available and extremely limited sources for Koyo parts.

Draw your own conclusion.
 
I did a little research. It seems that front driveshaft issues related to the DC joint are not uncommon on Tacomas. Rockford Driveline (http://www.rockforddriveline.com/) sells the parts required to rebuild the DC joint, it's also been reported that most driveshaft shops are also capable of rebuilding it.

Is it worth it? Probably not, but it can be done.
 
Nothing to do with autocraft.
 
Remote resi mount solution

Just wanted to show a picture of how my Bilstein resi is mounted up front, in case it gives you guys some ideas for the RadFlo's.

I'm truly enjoying the shock discussions on the RadFlo's - some day.....:rolleyes:
100_1280.jpg
 
This is a great thread. Did I miss the spring selection or is that still up in the air?
 
This is a great thread. Did I miss the spring selection or is that still up in the air?

Not yet but that may be happening next weekend. I've now driven an 80 with Slee mediums, OME heavy and IronMan springs. I'd love to test out Slee heavy and TJM. We'll see.

I would have decided last week but because the stereo head unit went out I wound up installing all new speakers and a new bad ass HU along with Dynamat for the doors. I blew my budget by about $700 but since the wife picked it its all good :flipoff2:
 
I was in Redondo Beach this week and meant to PM you to check out your rig, but I caught the flu and suffered through Legoland and Universal Studios with the family. :(

I'm leaning towards the Slee 4" springs. How'd you like the Medium Slee's?
 
I was in Redondo Beach this week and meant to PM you to check out your rig, but I caught the flu and suffered through Legoland and Universal Studios with the family. :(

I'm leaning towards the Slee 4" springs. How'd you like the Medium Slee's?

Universal Studios? You were a 5 min drive from my work :flipoff2:

I liked the Slee Mediums but the owner didn't have as much weight as I do in the back. He also was running OME shocks and 33" tires. The ride was....direct. Not rough per se. But I felt everything on the road. He had spacers to eliminate stink bug.
 
NLXTACY said:
Not yet but that may be happening next weekend. I've now driven an 80 with Slee mediums, OME heavy and IronMan springs. I'd love to test out Slee heavy and TJM. We'll see.

I would have decided last week but because the stereo head unit went out I wound up installing all new speakers and a new bad ass HU along with Dynamat for the doors. I blew my budget by about $700 but since the wife picked it its all good :flipoff2:

Gotcha. I'll stay tuned.
I found another good thread on a TJM lift and the owner had posted these measurements measuring from center of hub to bottom of fender flare after he installed his heavy TJM 3" lift. It looked really good and spoke highly of it.
Before.............After
DF: 19 1/4"...... 22 1/4"
PF: 19 1/2"...... 22 3/8"
DR: 19"........... 22 1/2"
PR: 19"........... 22 1/2"

Anyone have this data on the ome or slee?
 
NLXTACY,

I've got the TJM 4" with their shocks on my 94... If you ever get down towards Compton/Carson area and want to take it for a spin to see how it rides give me a heads up and I'll bring it into the office.

Chris
 
NLXTACY,

I've got the TJM 4" with their shocks on my 94... If you ever get down towards Compton/Carson area and want to take it for a spin to see how it rides give me a heads up and I'll bring it into the office.

Chris


I'm actually holding off on getting springs this pat check so that I can hopefully try out a few more trucks. Including yours :D

I will PM you the next time I know I will going to that area. My son's next heli training day is next weekend so maybe then.
 
The BudBuilt rods haven't come in yet but I think its because of the thick wall and the powder coating. No worries, I will have plenty of time to figure things out. LANDTANK, after DELANCY's berating :flipoff2:, decided to make the rear upper arms. Solid rod, factory length and OEM bushings already pressed in. Going to be ordering up this Friday as to not make the princess bear angry :D
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/679486-landtanks-upper-rear-links.html
 
For future use I wanted to post up a couple of relevant PDFs concerning the removal/installation of these various parts along with the torque specs for each piece. For my reference and yours.
 

Attachments

  • Rear Stabilizer Bar Removal.pdf
    14.1 KB · Views: 116
  • Rear Lateral Control Rod Removal.pdf
    16.4 KB · Views: 175
  • Front Stabilizer Bar Removal.pdf
    18.9 KB · Views: 144
Few more relevant PDFs
 

Attachments

  • Front Leading Arm Removal.pdf
    16.4 KB · Views: 142
  • Front lateral Control Rod Removal.pdf
    15.4 KB · Views: 156

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