Builds Finally doing it, 4" lift on my LX (1 Viewer)

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I think you miss read MJ80's post. It's the return to centre part (spring) that's a waste of time. Definitely upgrade from the stock unit.

I feel with big tires and all the stress we put on these rigs, under $100 for a new Steering dampner is WELL worth it!! IMO

Crap, I forgot about the steering dampener.
 
When did you get in a hurry?

Now that I work for a new company, I will be "terminated" from the old company and rehired to the new one. All of my seniority goes...well, you know. I used to get 4 weeks of vacation a year. I need to take those before I lose them come July. So that means I'm taking off almost all of June and doing another huge (~5000 mile) camping/off-road trip which will take me to Yellowstone once again and then this time well into Canada then down the coast home. Trying to do a lot in the remaining time. :(
 
Well I guess I was further behind than I thought. Just sent Christo a PM for a few things that I just completely forgot. Getting the OME steering damper (after enough people saying nothing fancy is need :p ) and the front sway bar block and rear sway bar drop bracket.
 
Here's my two bits. Take for what it's worth.

2.5s only for the 80, regardless of color.

Obviously, my votes Radflo, but either emulsion or remote. Will have details, not that it's rocket science, because it's not, of how I think best to orient resi's tomorrow or Wednesday (when I finally order mine).

BUT

Have to give consideration to ADS' considering Slee has invested the time into as a product offering, he'll have travel and valving down to what they feel matches the coils, then if you have issues, there's no finger pointing.

Yeah Steve has been building shocks longer then a lot of 80's owners lol... I run ads shocks and love them
 
Slee springs are supposed to arrive tomorrow. But ready through the threads about the Panhards. It looks like adjustable is needed. The drop brackets from MAF I guess are no longer available. After reading a few threads I can see that panhard replacement is pretty crucial. So I suppose I will be ordering those up as well. Hmm...

EDIT: OOOOOOOR.... do I rock the DIY Panhard joints?
http://ajikoverlandexchange.com/products-page/landtank/diy-pan-hard-joints/
 
Personally, think OE bushings are the way to go on panhards, be it by lengthening or sleeving OE.

I may swap back to modified OEs at some point, not due to issues with current, but proactive measure to avoid.

The poly's on the FJC are all trashing out and with only 50k.

On the front sway bar drops, think the better option is the solid block at the frame. In my experience, extending the links allows too much movement for the sway to be effective, but all butt dyno and based on my drops.

If I haven't, I will send these to you, since I know we previously discussed. They work, but don't think they work as well as the blocked extension.....but they look a thousand times better than the blocks and we all know how important that is.

( thought I had pic. You've seen before ).
 

Should of just get everything from Slee in stead of AJIK. Would of made everything easier on you.

Sent from my hawn finga using IH8MUD
 
Should of just get everything from Slee in stead of AJIK. Would of made everything easier on you.

Blah blah blah. It's not what I wanted. For starters I only want to use OEM bushings. I've got non-OEM on other builds and I hated it each time.
 
Blah blah blah. It's not what I wanted. For starters I only want to use OEM bushings. I've got non-OEM on other builds and I hated it each time.

The quote that I responded was to the sway bar extensions. Theirs no bushings involved, just metal or aluminum extensions. Don't know what your talking about when it comes to OEM bushings. OEM bushings only come from front control arms, rear upper/lower control arm, panhards, & sway bars

Sent from my hawn finga using IH8MUD
 
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Shameless plug I know but we have just released an extended rear HD sway bar link. It will bolt right in on a truck with the under frame setup and is 2" longer than the stock rear link.

HD construction with HD bushings at the frame mount. The longer link also deflects at a lesser angle when the axle is flexed.

And as always we have the front axle HD sway bar tabs to avoid brake failure should the stock tab break free.
 
I ain't any dog in the Slee vs. AJIK fight, but would third ( even though I firsted ) the solid drops for the front, or just man up and pull the sway, be done with it.


















:flipoff2:

Joking. I tried to keep the front, but had a $1,300 drive shaft that won the lease, otherwise it'd still be on there.
 
just wanted to add ..... that this is an awesome read... thanks for posting everything in such detail :cool::cool:
 
The quote that I responded was to the sway bar extensions. Theirs no bushings involved, just metal or aluminum extensions. Don't know what your talking about when it comes to OEM bushings. OEM bushings only come from front control arms, rear upper/lower control arm, panhards, & sway bars

hahahahaahha!

Ok gotcha. Fair enough. Yes that is/was the direction I am/was going. What I was referring to was everything else you listed. Since I am going 4" I am getting all linkage brand new with OEM bushings installed. Every single other offering is Urethane/Polyurethane and I really don't want those in my truck.
 
Shameless plug I know but we have just released an extended rear HD sway bar link. It will bolt right in on a truck with the under frame setup and is 2" longer than the stock rear link.

HD construction with HD bushings at the frame mount. The longer link also deflects at a lesser angle when the axle is flexed.

And as always we have the front axle HD sway bar tabs to avoid brake failure should the stock tab break free.

Are you talking about these: http://ajikoverlandexchange.com/products-page/landtank/heavy-duty-sway-bar-links/

Or a newer set that isn't on Josh's site yet?
 

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