Fiberglass roof repair (1 Viewer)

[underwater]

Just starting to restore a my 67 fj40. I have the fiberglass roof off and getting ready to repair the holes and dings. The outside is heavily weathered and the cloth and glass strands are exposed. Were these initially painted or gel coated? This has some remaining white coating in places over a green primer(?) layer over the glass. What's the best way to proceed, paint or gel? Many thanks from someone on a very steep learning curve.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

The last time I worked on my top I just sanded the surface smooth, sealed the gutters with seam sealer, then hit it with some gloss rattle rattle can paint, probably 3-4 coats in all.

There was some damage done to my top in Jume and my gutter clamps have wrecked havoc on the seam sealer, so I presently have my lid on saw horses in my garage about to do a little rehab.


Gel coat would be the best long term solution, but regular old rattle can would be a whole lot easier to touch up.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Oh, and welcome to Mud.

 

[OlYellr]

If your are really inspirational... I found this and others helpful planning out my roof.

Lone Wolf Works YouTube

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Pretty sure you want Gel Coat. As much as I appreciate DIY, I have found some things are better (and sometimes cheaper) to leave to the experts. I would at least take it to a boat place and ask for an estimate. If nothing else, you will learn how they would tackle the refurbishment.

 

[coinoperated40]

The tops are multilayered and the pictures show something but the feel of the top says a lot more. Good advice on seeking help from repair people. Restore it best now for a lasting piece of history.
And welcome to a life of….. fun!!

 

[zerotreedelta]

We've owned my '76 since new, and all indications were that it was painted with Cygnus from the factory. Given the rail, seam sealer, and visor/rivets needed paint as well, I suspect that was done for easy of assembly and finished. The steel rail was definitely not pre-painted, as there was minimal paint inside the lip.

If your top is heavily weathered, the glass might need some love in some form...but I'd wager you'd still end up needing paint as the final topcoat after assembly.

 

[jvincig01]

Heed my warning... the roof is a brutal job. I disliked every minute of working with fiberglass. I would have botched the job big time if it wasn't for @zerotreedelta and his Youtube videos. I have a write-up on how I tackled it if you want to check it out.

In all seriousness, fiberglass is icky stuff, but take your time, and it will come out nice.

Rain Gutter and Top Restoration

I posted a few pictures of my rain gutter on this thread and it appears most people think I should take it down and redo it completely: What condition is my gutter in? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-condition-is-my-gutter-in.1278568/#post-14339479 Ok, I agree, if I am going to put a...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[EStein]

The last time I worked on my top I just sanded the surface smooth, sealed the gutters with seam sealer, then hit it with some gloss rattle rattle can paint, probably 3-4 coats in all.

There was some damage done to my top in Jume and my gutter clamps have wrecked havoc on the seam sealer, so I presently have my lid on saw horses in my garage about to do a little rehab.


Gel coat would be the best long term solution, but regular old rattle can would be a whole lot easier to touch up.

I’ll be doing the same to mine next week. I just don’t have the energy or $$ for a fiberglass pro. Going to sand the multiple layers of paint with some 80 grit, epoxy primer, seamseal, and paint with a single stage Cygnus white. I’m expecting it to be good enough.
Yes! Welcome to mud!

 

[underwater]

Thank you all or your advice, very helpful and informative. I'll probably be using something from each of you. Here's a few pictures of what I'm doing. The roof was bedded in the drip tray with what looks like burlap and resin. I ground that off to get back to the original glass. Now I have to repair the edge with new glass and reinforce it. I'll also be patching the holes in the roof left from a rack.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

No turning back now.

 

[underwater]

No turning back now.

That's true. If I knew how to do everything this restore will take I never would have started it. PhD from the University of Hard Knocks.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

That's true. If I knew how to do everything this restore will take I never would have started it. PhD from the University of Hard Knocks.

I have a double PhD. from working on my 40!

 

[EStein]

That's true. If I knew how to do everything this restore will take I never would have started it. PhD from the University of Hard Knocks.

I’ve said that so many times!

 

[bikersmurf]

That's true. If I knew how to do everything this restore will take I never would have started it. PhD from the University of Hard Knocks.

This is exactly why I have been doing a rolling restomod since ‘92. Since then I’ve replaced the rear floor, inner fenders, front disc brake conversion, rear FF axle swap, frame, SBC swap, transmission & transfer case, radiator x2, hood, front fenders, hardtop & hatch, front seats (three times), 2nd SBC, winch x2, roll bar, P/S swap, and all lights. Had I stripped it down all at once, it would likely have been in pieces when I moved and been sold… or still be in pieces. Instead, it’s a running & driving 40 that will eventually need some rear 1/4s and new rockers. Aftee the body is finished, it’ll get some somewhat shinier paint… maybe even from a gun rather than a rattle can.

 

[Its me shaneus]

I had to fix a a big crease / crack in my fiberglass top. All was done while attached to removed top.

Use cloth and resin in many layers on outside first, then flipped and did inside. Old foam between layers was dry and turned to dust when touched. I brushed this out then actually used spray foam and cut and sanded to flush. Then more cloth and resin. Got smooth and painted inside of cap, still need to put in the headliner I bought.

When done with inside I flipped back over and did final body work to tops outside. Just a little fiberglass reinforced body putty where needed and a lot of time sanding.

Then used Rust-Oleum "topside" marine white paint, put on with foam roller. Couple of layers. Some 1000 grit and buffing and it looked great.

This was 10 years ago and it has held up well. Very impressed the paint still has some gloss.

Started out as a quick and dirty fix, came out so good I wish I had taken the top fully apart and done it right.