- Thread starter
- #161
mine's handling like sheit, make me a pair of those control arms will ya
No problem. There actually fairly simple to make. Cheap they are not...but simple they are
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No problem. There actually fairly simple to make. Cheap they are not...but simple they are
- Thread starter
- #162
No problemo. I'll try to get a few done later this week...I'll PM you.
Funny I don't have these types of problems with my Lexus Mall cruiser. I guess takin speed bumps at the mall at less then 3 mph is the right move.
Do you have:
- High milage?
- A lift?
- Or wheel a load?
If no... I would assume thats why?
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
No problem. There actually fairly simple to make. Cheap they are not...but simple they are
Props. these look great and would work in an 80, I think. I love the looks of those joints.
It does look like you could just use 1 joint and 1 bushing, though. You have enough flex there for 2 Land Cruisers.
Great pics of the old bushings. Do you think that's trailer related, or just the nature of the beast?
- Thread starter
- #165
Andy: The 80's use an 18mm bolt for the upper control arms (same as lowers I believe). Whereas the 100's changed to 14mm bolts. BF offers 5/8" but still undersized for the 80 holes.
Jack and Ali both had to replace their upper rear bushings at the same time; although I don't think their's were worn as badly. All rigs have about 170k on them. The KK definitely, with its 300+lb tongue weight along with my fairly aggressive off-road driving style (that's going to change...can't afford the PMs required for pre-runner style driving anymore
), is a contributing factor.
Poly's at one end = bigger hassle than the BF's at each end. I can't tell the difference in ride quality, which is what BF folks told me would be, to tell you the truth with my 15-mile shakedown off-trail cruise today.
Jack and Ali both had to replace their upper rear bushings at the same time; although I don't think their's were worn as badly. All rigs have about 170k on them. The KK definitely, with its 300+lb tongue weight along with my fairly aggressive off-road driving style (that's going to change...can't afford the PMs required for pre-runner style driving anymore
), is a contributing factor.Poly's at one end = bigger hassle than the BF's at each end. I can't tell the difference in ride quality, which is what BF folks told me would be, to tell you the truth with my 15-mile shakedown off-trail cruise today.
No problem. There actually fairly simple to make. Cheap they are not...but simple they are
Ohhhhh well you know what's on my plait, maybe I'll wate
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
No problem. There actually fairly simple to make. Cheap they are not...but simple they are
how much would a set cost? Seeing as my Landcruiser's front end is basically on the verge of being spresso-built
- Thread starter
- #168
Leo,
I want to run them awhile to be sure they are "the solution"; no substitute for off-road parts testing
. I'm going to get to test them off-road in a couple of weeks. And I doubt if your rear upper control arms are worn or worn out. You would, probably, be better served spending the $500+ on something else for where you're at on your rig!
I want to run them awhile to be sure they are "the solution"; no substitute for off-road parts testing
. I'm going to get to test them off-road in a couple of weeks. And I doubt if your rear upper control arms are worn or worn out. You would, probably, be better served spending the $500+ on something else for where you're at on your rig!
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
Leo,
I want to run them awhile to be sure they are "the solution"; no substitute for off-road parts testing
Good point. My dad is actually pushing me to get bigger tires cos he said my tires look dinky
haha a set of bigger tires sure sounds good about now 
my fairly aggressive off-road driving style (that's going to change...can't afford the PMs required for pre-runner style driving anymore
Now that is some funny stuff right there.
I will believe it when I see it. That is right up there with us not taking the the "road less traveled." I have my doubts.
Glad to hear the cruiser is alive and well.
Jack
- Thread starter
- #171
Now that is some funny stuff right there.
I will believe it when I see it. That is right up there with us not taking the the "road less traveled." I have my doubts.
Glad to hear the cruiser is alive and well.
Jack
Hey...I can dream can't I?
Now that is some funny stuff right there.
I will believe it when I see it.
Jack
Sh@t, You beat me to it!!!
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I would keep a close eye on those and take the tools with to tighten /remove them on the trail. Joe runs a similar style joint on his buggy and they have a tendency to loosen the adjuster ring. How are those locked in?
- Thread starter
- #174
Christo,
The adjuster is held tight by a set-screw; with loctite
. Is Joe running the injection molded bearing cups or the machined version?Do you have:
- High milage?
- A lift?
- Or wheel a load?
If no... I would assume thats why?
Stock 2004 LX470 with 60K miles and all maintance done by the book.
the vantage must be the daily driver.............
- Thread starter
- #177
Ballistic Fabrication joint update
Ok: After a serious break-in period covering hundreds of combined miles, including hundreds of miles within Death Valley (enough said there I noticed once we got back on pavement the rear end steering/unsettled suspension issue returned. I suspected compression/break-in of the machined nylon 'bearing' cup/races were the culprit.
I just removed and disassembled the rear upper control arm joints and am happy to report despite not having adequate grease in the chromed steel ball socket/nylon race cavity the adjustment was still tight and without play. I should have disassembled the joints upon arrival from BF but I assumed there was adequate grease on the ball portion. I did, however, pump the joint cavity full of grease at the time of install. But its difficult to get it completely full and surrounding the ball/socket pivot; and no substitute for grease upon assembly of the joint.
Anyway: No brinelling of the races or balls is evident!
The culprit, however, were the 14mm control arm mounting bolts/nuts. I reused the Toyota OEM upon reassembly/install of the BF arms (long bolt, heavy duty thick flat washer and regular nut). I've never had a problem with these coming loose. However without the damping effect from rubber and/or poly bushings I can see how vibration necessitates nylock nuts on these bolts.
One arm's adjusting nuts were backed off on each end by about 1/4" (passenger side FWIW). The driver's side were not as snug as I originally tightened them but snug enough. And FWIW Christo, although I'm not sure I agree, leaves on this type of adjustable control arm, the nuts loose for better articulation (with poly bushings).
The joints enable the most accurate and solid feeling to my rig! The joints don't impart any additional suspension vibes that I can discern. Just pure solid and accurate connection feeling. Hard to describe but I like the feeling!
Anyway after the initial torture test I am happy with the BF joints.
There is NO substitute for shake-down cruises after new parts have been installed and prior to a big trip!
Ok: After a serious break-in period covering hundreds of combined miles, including hundreds of miles within Death Valley (enough said there
I noticed once we got back on pavement the rear end steering/unsettled suspension issue returned. I suspected compression/break-in of the machined nylon 'bearing' cup/races were the culprit. I just removed and disassembled the rear upper control arm joints and am happy to report despite not having adequate grease in the chromed steel ball socket/nylon race cavity the adjustment was still tight and without play. I should have disassembled the joints upon arrival from BF but I assumed there was adequate grease on the ball portion. I did, however, pump the joint cavity full of grease at the time of install. But its difficult to get it completely full and surrounding the ball/socket pivot; and no substitute for grease upon assembly of the joint.
Anyway: No brinelling of the races or balls is evident!
The culprit, however, were the 14mm control arm mounting bolts/nuts. I reused the Toyota OEM upon reassembly/install of the BF arms (long bolt, heavy duty thick flat washer and regular nut). I've never had a problem with these coming loose. However without the damping effect from rubber and/or poly bushings I can see how vibration necessitates nylock nuts on these bolts.
One arm's adjusting nuts were backed off on each end by about 1/4" (passenger side FWIW). The driver's side were not as snug as I originally tightened them but snug enough. And FWIW Christo, although I'm not sure I agree, leaves on this type of adjustable control arm, the nuts loose for better articulation (with poly bushings).
The joints enable the most accurate and solid feeling to my rig! The joints don't impart any additional suspension vibes that I can discern. Just pure solid and accurate connection feeling. Hard to describe but I like the feeling!
Anyway after the initial torture test I am happy with the BF joints.
There is NO substitute for shake-down cruises after new parts have been installed and prior to a big trip!
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- Thread starter
- #178
I also added Christo's new front bumper with a couple of my own touches . Although during our Death Valley run this past week no winching was needed I am very, very happy with the bumper especially the what seems to be MilSpec construction and overall rigidity!
Another add-on of recent: The FrontRunner Wind Cheetah rack. This was, again, the maiden trip for the rack. Nothing more than sand ladders and firewood adorned the rack apart of this trip. But super handy to quickly attach campfire wood in route. Love the rack (now that its installed).
. Although during our Death Valley run this past week no winching was needed I am very, very happy with the bumper especially the what seems to be MilSpec construction and overall rigidity! Another add-on of recent: The FrontRunner Wind Cheetah rack. This was, again, the maiden trip for the rack. Nothing more than sand ladders and firewood adorned the rack apart of this trip. But super handy to quickly attach campfire wood in route. Love the rack (now that its installed
).
- Thread starter
- #179
Steering rack poly bushing update
As many of you know I completely rebuilt the front end of my LC including a brand new Toyota steering rack. I decided to try the SuperPro poly bushings for the rack: The large passenger side bushing and the two press in driver's side bushings.
The overall steering is very, very tight and accurate feeling. Of course my former rack and bushings were worn so I don't really know what a new rack is supposed to feel like. There is an ever so slight amount of buzz that is barely discernible at certain MPH on pavement. But the difference is oh-so-slight and expected given the durometer difference between the rubber Toyota OEM bushings and the harder poly SuperPros.
So far so good.
As many of you know I completely rebuilt the front end of my LC including a brand new Toyota steering rack. I decided to try the SuperPro poly bushings for the rack: The large passenger side bushing and the two press in driver's side bushings.
The overall steering is very, very tight and accurate feeling. Of course my former rack and bushings were worn so I don't really know what a new rack is supposed to feel like. There is an ever so slight amount of buzz that is barely discernible at certain MPH on pavement. But the difference is oh-so-slight and expected given the durometer difference between the rubber Toyota OEM bushings and the harder poly SuperPros.
So far so good.
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
Dan, did you get rid of your home brew sliders? The sliders you have in the pic look different, or is it just my imagination?lol
