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- #621
I think so but not sure. I got tired of the incessant maintenance required with the former aftermarket arm components (spherical bearings aka "Uni-Ball" serving as the outer ball joint is just about the dumbest idea and application; ditto urethane inner bushings. Learned a lot...but damn it cost me LOL.
Custom arms with large spherical bearing ends (infinitely adjustable without the negatives of plastic bushing bind...), Hummer1 racing ball joints (rebuildable). As with all one-off custom fabbed anything with high end parts, they weren't cheap. OTOH, they've paid dividends over the past 10 years or so. The spherical bearing ends have been there from day one with zero maintenance and zero issues. And they allow up to 4º caster correction; more than I need or want but nice the adjustment range is that wide). Ideally, I'd like to have a matching set of lower control arms that position the bottom ball joint/knuckle 2 degrees or so farther forward. This would get the wheel centered in the well, eliminate rear of front tire to fender interference and provide better overall steering handling and stability.
The H1 racing ball joints require a different taper for the LC steering knuckle. Wasn't a big deal to ream the knuckle to the matching taper though. And if I had to do it all over again I would have had the arms clear 2.5" shocks; whereas these were modeled after 2.0" shock diameter.
Custom arms with large spherical bearing ends (infinitely adjustable without the negatives of plastic bushing bind...), Hummer1 racing ball joints (rebuildable). As with all one-off custom fabbed anything with high end parts, they weren't cheap. OTOH, they've paid dividends over the past 10 years or so. The spherical bearing ends have been there from day one with zero maintenance and zero issues. And they allow up to 4º caster correction; more than I need or want but nice the adjustment range is that wide). Ideally, I'd like to have a matching set of lower control arms that position the bottom ball joint/knuckle 2 degrees or so farther forward. This would get the wheel centered in the well, eliminate rear of front tire to fender interference and provide better overall steering handling and stability.
The H1 racing ball joints require a different taper for the LC steering knuckle. Wasn't a big deal to ream the knuckle to the matching taper though. And if I had to do it all over again I would have had the arms clear 2.5" shocks; whereas these were modeled after 2.0" shock diameter.