While I'm here I thought I'd update the rear axle situation as of today. I've had to have the rear axles rebuilt a total of 4-times in the past 12-months. The first pair (left and right) were due to worn out/destroyed bearings (no visible outside leak that would have indicated seal failure). The next 2 rebuilds were performed due to blown seals: The outer seal, in both instances, were puking diff oil; clear sign of inner axle seal failure.
The axle housing may (or may not) be bent which might explain the 2 most recent axle seal failures. I have 3 flat spots on the bottom of the axle housing indicating at some time I hit something hard enough to crush it down. You think I'd remember such an event but nothing comes to recollection. Both coil spring perches on the axle housing are deformed/partially collapsed. Another indicator I bottomed out fairly hard at some time(s). To be fair the spring perches are not all that robust and wouldn't be that hard IMO to deform.
I checked the rear diff and locker breathers and they are all intact and fully breathing. I installed 1/4" rubber fuel line and extended the breathers to the engine compartment firewall years ago. I thought that would be an easy explanation for the inner axle seal failures...pressure differential during axle deep water crossings; I've done a few of those
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The design of the 100-Series all pressed together axle bearing assembly/system design leaves alot to be desired for someone like me that wants to be able to service the axle periodically. Stream crossings and axle deep mud eventually take its toll on any seal including outer axle seals. The tools to be able to do this at home would require 2 SST's (I do not know what they would cost to acquire or make...guessing at least $1,000) and at least a 40-ton press. Possible to do them at home with the proper tools and know how. Impossible to perform in the field if/when necessary. Additionally the parts necessary to do the job, as the parts really can't be re-used once pressed off the axle (ABS sensor might be able to be reused if not damaged apart of the removal process): $275 per side as a minimum for parts. And, again, there is no way to just inspect the bearing(s) without pressing the axle apart.
Whereas the 80 and 105 Series, et al, Land Cruisers came with full float style axles along with relatively easy to service bearings and hubs.
The 80-Series uses 30mm splined axles. The 105-Series, interestingly enough, uses 32mm spline axles of the same diameter as our 100-Series! And according to my parts source the brake rotor, caliper and e-brake drum brake assembly share the same part #'s between the 105 and IFS 100!
I've been rolling different solutions around for the past month or so including Ford 9", Dana 60 and 14-Bolt and/or complete axle assemblies from Dynatrac, SpyderTrax, Currie, etc.. All of these, with different advantages/disadvantages, have merit and would offer 35mm splined axles along with a more robust aftermarket/custom housing that would surely put any question of strength to rest.
But that direction would require figuring out how to deal with the u-joint difference and what to use for the brake assembly: Neither are insurmountable just add to the challenge and expense. There are a few different brake assemblies out there that use disc and drum combo. I'd just need to calculate/verify the volume difference of brake fluid required to determine if the Dodge/GM/Wilwood.
I'm in the process of determining the total cost of several different systems. The 105 parts including the axle housing are available from Japan4x4 (thanks Dave Stedman for doing all the leg work on this!!!). This might be the least expensive and least complicated overall. But I need to do a full comparison.
And I have several very knowledgeable LC and non-LC axle "experts" helping me with this project that I will be forever grateful to: Ali, Andy, Dave, Jack & Onur: Thank you!
Stay tuned!
) and ultra critical so its a narrow lot of choices especially given my preferred size.
