Featured 100 - spressomon

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Anthony.L said:
I'm going to make a big guess and say a Tundra axle would need to be shortened first. Kinda like putting a Dana 60 under a Jeep, the track width is to wide in stock form. Again, a complete guess.
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Our 100-Series axle is 68-3/8" wide (wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface)...
 
Well if you can't find the Tundra measurement let me know, I've got a good friend with a 2008 Tundra that I could measure for you.
 
I thought the Tundra was a semi-float, at least the one I looked at.
 
The 105 axle sounds ideal, since it is close to a "standard" axle and junk yard parts will be available all over the world for years to come. It's fitting to keep it Toyota too. It sure beats talking about N74L shocks. Good work.

Is the WMS width on the 105 the same as you have now?

Which brings up a bunch of other questions. Does it have the same bearing spacing as 80 series in the spindles? If so, this could be a cool all Toy upgrade to 80s-32 spline axles, bigger brakes, utilize the 80 hub to keep the lug pattern correct. Hmmm......

Can't wait to see the results. It's only money, not something important. Don't worry about that part.:grinpimp:
 
No...the 105-Series WMS width is not as wide as the 100-Series; that would have been too easy :rolleyes:. I don't know the actual width only that it is closer to the 80-Series width (63.5") but not identical AFAIK. So it would require an aftermarket housing or sectioning the 105 housing: Easy choice there ;).

There is a complete 79-Series rear end available stateside for a 1/2 way decent (relatively) price ($500) but it has drums not discs. FYI: The 79-Series FF is also 32 spline. That would have been the deal if it had the disc/drum combo!

I spoke to Dan at RuffStuff yesterday and he said "2-3 weeks out" on their 9.5" Toyota housing; just getting to know his ETA forecasts...that probably means 2-3 months in RS speak...which is fine for my timeline anyway.

However at the end of the day the total cost is about the same as a complete Dynatrac 60 with Wildwood brakes (disc and e-brake drum) based complete rear end assembly. So more consideration and the ultimate decision making to be made.

Its not an inexpensive upgrade no matter the course...
 
If the 105 direction is doable on a 100 then it might be worth a group buy? Some of the other 100 owners might be interested in it as well. I know I've done my rear axles a couple of times because of inner seal failure and it is a PITA to have to take the axles to someone with a press.

And what Andy said - its only money :). Go ahead and do all the crazy research for the good of the people!
 
rohitash said:
If the 105 direction is doable on a 100 then it might be worth a group buy? Some of the other 100 owners might be interested in it as well. I know I've done my rear axles a couple of times because of inner seal failure and it is a PITA to have to take the axles to someone with a press.

And what Andy said - its only money :). Go ahead and do all the crazy research for the good of the people!
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Hmmm...given the fact just you and I are the only 100-Series owners that see the rear end as a problem (right now) I think we'd have a tough time getting to even a 3 quantity order ;)
 
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beno said:
I assume Brian is saying take the SF from a 10.5" Tundra and use it as a foundation for a FF custom axle.

That would be serious money. More serious than the 105 FF conversion.
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But it would be seriously awesome:D
 
I'm considering adding custom built 10.5"ers to the product list. I'm currently working on a full floating conversion for the Tundra. We'll have ARB's for them in the next 2 weeks... working on a really nice LSD, gears, etc.
 
Trunk Monkey said:
Would it be possible to graft the 105 axle ends onto the 100 series axle? May save some shipping not sending the whole pumpkin.
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Might be possible. Not sure how thick the housing wall is where they would need to be welded...nor exactly how you'd machine the OEM welded sheet metal/stamped housing for decent accuracy.

If I proceed with trying to adapt the 105 parts that will be something I could easily check apart of the process.
 
spressomon said:
No...the 105-Series WMS width is not as wide as the 100-Series; that would have been too easy :rolleyes:. I don't know the actual width only that it is closer to the 80-Series width (63.5") but not identical AFAIK. So it would require an aftermarket housing or sectioning the 105 housing: Easy choice there ;).
Click to expand...

Just some quick thoughts...

Much of the difference in the WMS width may be due to the hub offset. If you could find a way to fit front 100 series FF hubs onto a 105 axle, the width would probably be much closer to the 68.x" you need. The problem there lies in that the 100 uses a larger inner wheel bearing to carry that offset... I believe it's too big for the 105 spindle. The bearing nut on the rear FF axles is also much larger than the front. Possible scenario if the 105 shafts are long enough and the 100 housing not too wide... machine up a couple 100 series style spindles that will bolt on to your existing rear axle. Front 100 hubs, adapt brakes... just brain storming....

This is a mini truck IFS vs solid axle hub. I'm speculating the 100 IFS vs 105 rear hub would be a similar picture.....
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Hey Dan,
Lots of thought going into this one, great work and I know you flog your rig and are having problems but are you trying to fix the symptom? No problems there, but I still ask the question, what is the cause? I'm sure you've looked at this very closely but where is the water getting in and why? Is there a fix for the cause? Is it getting past the outer seal, is it getting past the flange gasket etc. etc., and if so, why, and can something be done about it?
I understand your want for a full floater but I (personally) would like more info on the root cause if you have it?
 
How about new 100 parts and custom axle armor, reinforced spring mount ect ...
 
100 TD said:
Hey Dan,
Lots of thought going into this one, great work and I know you flog your rig and are having problems but are you trying to fix the symptom? No problems there, but I still ask the question, what is the cause? I'm sure you've looked at this very closely but where is the water getting in and why? Is there a fix for the cause? Is it getting past the outer seal, is it getting past the flange gasket etc. etc., and if so, why, and can something be done about it?
I understand your want for a full floater but I (personally) would like more info on the root cause if you have it?
Click to expand...


Warren,

I could just get a different housing. But that doesn't really address my needs. If you ever have the misfortune of having to service the 100 Series rear axle you'll understand. Its a time bomb for me; its proven to be a problem more ways than one and more times than one. I'm at the end of the proverbial road with this rear end. Toyota has made a decision to move, at least for USA destined or manufactured trucks, away from utilitarian user and/or field serviceable sub-assemblies. That started in earnest in 1998 ;).

It needs to be serviceable and maintainable. If it were more easily serviceable I'd run the seal issue down. But there's no point for me to spend an inordinate amount of time and energy when the goal is to have a FF and bearings that I can inspect and service myself: At home or on the trail.
 
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