Builds Father, Son, and the Unholy UTE (1 Viewer)

[7powernerd]

Very cool progress. Maybe a picture of Josh learning to tack weld?

We'll get to that, maybe sooner than you think

 

[yohavos]

One thing that I noticed with my hatch fitment is that I didn't consider the height of the rear glass in relation to the new, small cab.

Mine looks right from the outside, but axtually ended up a tad low. I have to duck a little to see out of my rear view mirror while driving.

I didn't think to test fit a seat/mirror when I was installing everything, but it may be worth it?

 

[2fpower]

Another great idea Mike. More reason for what I am doing with chopping the top of the gate. May chop more after next test fit.

 

[2fpower]

Had a little father-son time in the shop. Josh got some welding lessons. Did pretty good.

 

[2fpower]

Finished shortening the top of the Sequoia Hatch. We like the look of this.

 

[2fpower]

How time to design the rollbar. The cardboard cut out is what I'm thinking the outer hoop will be. The question to the forum is:

1. what size DOM, I am thinking inch and three-quarter would look good, is that strong enough?

2. If I put in a lower bar and a middle bar at about the bottom of the window with two angled diagonal is that sufficient? See first pic.

3. At the bottom it looks like I can go back disgonally and attached at the frame. Is it a problem having the hoop bend in so much? See second picture.

 

[2fpower]

Frame sections.

 

[2fpower]

Parting out thread started here.

Parting Out: - 95 80 series in KC. Need $$ for ute project

We will gladly take unreasonably high offers for any parts we don't need. I have brown interior parts also if anyone needs any, plus bascially another entire rig we tore down last year that donated those frame pieces you see above.

Kelly

 

[Box Rocket]

Subbed. Love the use of the Sequoia gate.

 

[pengfinn]

I agree, the Sequoia gate looks great back there. Definitely going to keep an eye on this one.

 

[jeffro109]

I keep thinking of two "X" designs at the bottom portion - from the center horizontal/outer hoop intersection across the current diagonal down to the bottom, though I have no real experience with what works and what folds up...just a gut feeling as to what could happen in a rollover from a force point of view.

 

[2fpower]

Highlighted the outline for a plan. The purpose of the sides staying out is to stay out of the way of the seats; however, on second thought, the real issue with the seats is in the upper area. The second image is the more straight bottom section.

The green is where the frame rails are.

Who is a good source of information on roll cages? @SuperBuickGuy @jcardona1 ???

 

[BILT4ME]

For the most structural integrity, you want a giant X back there. At the very least you need a vertical member straight up from center where your bottom two diagonals meet.

Think about the forces in a rollover and you want to keep the cabin as open as possible and transfer those loads in straight lines to the frame as much as possible.

You may not be able to do a full X due to seat interference, but do verticals and triangulate anywhere you can.

 

[2fpower]

Foo lives on. Going to use Foo's old rear doors for skin behind front doors on the cab extension. I'll have to beat the dent out a little bit on the driver side, on the passenger side this do I think came from Mikey's rig. @FZJ80 in KC. And I think that damage is behind the area that I need.

 

[2fpower]

Chopped the rear donor doors and realized that I could reuse the hinges for temporarily holding them. Chopped the top back to get a look at our intended layout

 

[1MAC]

Highlighted the outline for a plan. The purpose of the sides staying out is to stay out of the way of the seats; however, on second thought, the real issue with the seats is in the upper area. The second image is the more straight bottom section.

I think you're on the right track. That straighter lower section should be considerably stiffer. You probably also already know you want the two short pieces to meet the horizontal bar at the same point to create a node. A vertical bar in the middle would be great if it didn't interfere with things. Alternatively, if you could run diagonals up top to mirror those bottom ones and create an "X" it would be very stiff.

 

[half k cruiser]

@2fpower , since you are extending the cab back, could you also move the roll cage back ? This would give you guys much more room to move the seats back and forth or recline. Are you wanting to tie the cage into the front of the cab as well ? 1.75 tube of decent wall thickness should be very strong. I can ask my buddy who does race cars what they use for cages.

 

[2fpower]

Thanks both of you for your input. Can's recall who is the great tube engineer. was it @nukegoat

I think you're on the right track. That straighter lower section should be considerably stiffer. You probably also already know you want the two short pieces to meet the horizontal bar at the same point to create a node. A vertical bar in the middle would be great if it didn't interfere with things. Alternatively, if you could run diagonals up top to mirror those bottom ones and create an "X" it would be very stiff.

Good point with the center meeting. that makes sense. Vertical bar at bottom should work. Good idea, basically making a bridge on the bottom. i am worried about diagonals at the top, as they will likely get in the way of the seat; however, my plan is to make it as planned, then put the seats in and see what else is possible.

@2fpower , since you are extending the cab back, could you also move the roll cage back ? This would give you guys much more room to move the seats back and forth or recline. Are you wanting to tie the cage into the front of the cab as well ? 1.75 tube of decent wall thickness should be very strong. I can ask my buddy who does race cars what they use for cages.

To be honest, not much of an extended cab after the mock up. Yes, cage is as far back as I can be against the Sequoia hatch at top, then as far to outside of cabin as possible to be out of the way of the seats on the sides. Doing the same thing as I did on FOO, with 1.5" DOM going from B pillar to A pillar and tying in there. Not planning on making a new drop from top of windshield down. i think the hoop and connection bar should be enough.

 

[Mudder]

I would recommend outing something to hold the roll bar straight up near the top. I regret not doing it and when I rolled my 84 it ended up shifting sideways. Still saved me but I'd put gussets up there.

 

[2fpower]

I would recommend outing something to hold the roll bar straight up near the top. I regret not doing it and when I rolled my 84 it ended up shifting sideways. Still saved me but I'd put gussets up there.

Are you saying a vertical from top to bottom?