Builds Father, Son, and the Unholy UTE (2 Viewers)

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Tonight, we gave Josh a gift for his Eagle Scout accomplishment. First rifle. View attachment 1371326
Nice! And Congrats!

When he gets old like me, he can make up a display of all his Boy Scout memorabilia:



I must have missed the Eagle Scout Ruger .22. Now I'm going to have to get one to go with the 100th Anniversary Henry's and Ruger. Where did you find one with the Eagle Scout emblem on the stock????

I reached out to a company that makes those and personalizes them and ask them if they had anything for Boy Scouts. One of the designers and owners is big into scouting so they created an Eagle Scout emblem and personalized it with my sons name and troop. There are some really good people out there in this world. View attachment 1371491

That is downright NICE!!!!
 
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Great thread! The 10/22 is a perfect first gun and a good way to teach him to modify EVERYTHING! haha!
 
Gotta love it when anyone takes a saw to a vehicle.... I'll be checking this build, I really like the concept.
Thanks! I gotta say, taking a plasma cutter to a great rust free body did make me pause; however, it is nice to not have to repair a bunch of damage.

Nice! And Congrats!

When he gets old like me, he can make up a display of all his Boy Scout memorabilia:



I must have missed the Eagle Scout Ruger .22. Now I'm going to have to get one to go with the 100th Anniversary Henry's and Ruger. Where did you find one with the Eagle Scout emblem on the stock????



That is downright NICE!!!!
Nice display and three rifles! Wow. So, the story on the Ruger 10/22 is that I really did not care for the official ruger 10/22 made for eagle scouts.

First off, it is a basic blued rifle, and I really don't care for any of the new Ruger 10/22 with composite lowers. They are beautiful pieces of artwork; however, I am not sure that I would want to take it out shooting and risk damaging it. Kind of like a perfect FJ40, I am scared to take it offroading, and it ends up not too much fun.

I searched on gunbroker for about a year, and found a Mannlicher full stainless 10/22 from late 1980's.
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This has the polished aluminum lower. This thing was perfect and looked like it had 50 rounds ever fired. Tore it down and cleaned out the cobwebs basically. I found the Eagle coins online, and purchased through Amazon.
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Then, had to make up a router jig to cut an oval shape into the stock. This sounded easy; however, given that the stock is not flat, ended up being quite the challenge. Thanks to a good friend Kyle, and my other good friend Mark (actually Maker's Mark), we were able to get it cut in so that the coin fit perfectly.

End of the day, I wanted a 10/22 that he will take out of the case and take for a day of shooting.
 
That is really cool. :beer:
 
What a great read this Christmas morning! Tons of progress! Congrats again on Eagle Scout @7powernerd. Can't wait to see you wheeling the new rig. Merry Christmas guys!
 
Spent last 2 hours scouring the internet and there is not much information out there on Sequoia wiring diagrams. if anyone has a source, I am looking for a rear sliding window wiring diagram.
 
Too many questions.... trying to focus.

We are planning to chop the rockers and put the sliders in that area like @jcardona1 and others have done.

The question i have is that I plan to make a hoop out of 1.5" DOM and then run DOM up to the windshield frame like I did for FOO inside the channel on the roof, and wondering where I should mount the bottom of this hoop to? First plan was to try and curve it back to the frame; however, can I mount it to the slider? Also, I really don't want to make an X across this hoop; however, I know it adds lots of strength. I think a horizontal cross where the window is would look fine and not be in the way too much. Any thoughts on what to do to add structure?

If it matters, this will be a daily driver; however, it will be wheeled, so I do want some protection for my son.
 
I searched on gunbroker for about a year, and found a Mannlicher full stainless 10/22 from late 1980's.
attachment.php
This has the polished aluminum lower. This thing was perfect and looked like it had 50 rounds ever fired. Tore it down and cleaned out the cobwebs basically. I found the Eagle coins online, and purchased through Amazon.
1967__orig.jpg



Then, had to make up a router jig to cut an oval shape into the stock. This sounded easy; however, given that the stock is not flat, ended up being quite the challenge. Thanks to a good friend Kyle, and my other good friend Mark (actually Maker's Mark), we were able to get it cut in so that the coin fit perfectly.

End of the day, I wanted a 10/22 that he will take out of the case and take for a day of shooting.

Wow! 'One of a kind'. Nicely done!
 
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Got a little time in shop tonight. Took most of time to pick up from the chopping event. Upon closer inspection there really isn't very much reinforcement around the sunroof, so I stole a rib from the rear of the roof, and moved it up.

Tried to protect dash and windshield.
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Had to grind out some of sunroof edge.

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Time to start filling the hole.

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If you are having a hoop behind the drivers head I would put in at least one diagonal. The one in the White Trash goes from the hoop behind my head to the opposite low corner. It really doesn't cause any visibility issues and you could still reach through and grab stuff out of the area behind the seats.

Then again I mounted my hoop to large plates welded to the body so take my cage building advice with a grain of salt.

Most cage builders would say mount your main hoop to the frame somehow. Mounting to slider and then slider to frame would be a fine way to accomplish this.

Looking good!
 
If you are having a hoop behind the drivers head I would put in at least one diagonal. The one in the White Trash goes from the hoop behind my head to the opposite low corner. It really doesn't cause any visibility issues and you could still reach through and grab stuff out of the area behind the seats.

Then again I mounted my hoop to large plates welded to the body so take my cage building advice with a grain of salt.

Most cage builders would say mount your main hoop to the frame somehow. Mounting to slider and then slider to frame would be a fine way to accomplish this.

Looking good!
Thanks @BlueCruiser84, appreciate the advice. You are one of the inspiration behind this build.
 
Glad the "B" pillar is uncut, but please do put something more substantial like a hoop at the rear since the kid will be driving it all the time and the hoop won't be near his head. Good job on the Eagle too!

Start selling parts and we can all fund the conversion :cheers:
 
Glad the "B" pillar is uncut, but please do put something more substantial like a hoop at the rear since the kid will be driving it all the time and the hoop won't be near his head. Good job on the Eagle too!

Start selling parts and we can all fund the conversion :cheers:

Thanks, and I agree need to come up with a pile of parts to sell.

Yes, DOM hoop is definately in the works, I want to get rough cut on roof and where the sequoia tail end will roughly be.

I have a couple ideas on how the hoop will tie to the frame -- we will see where that road leads.
 
HELP NEEDED......

Josh tore down the wiring harness on the sequoia tailgate and it is a mess of wires, most of them going into a computer box mounted on the tailgate. Good / bad answer. I have been searching on the internet for a wiring diagram for the rear window and found nothing, so if anyone can point me in a direction, it would be much appreciated.

My understanding is that the sequoia has a switch on the dash area to operate the window, and the key on the rear hatch would operate the window. have 11 wires coming from the cabin, of which some would be for wipers, door locks, defrost, turn and brake reverse lights. Strange thing is that almost al of them go through that computer box.

We have isolated the rear brake lights, and we will try to isolate the rear window defrost wires, which we did find the wiring diagram for online.
 
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Progress. Thought I might post up my work setup. I used a Baker's rack but had to remove the rear tires as it wasn't quite wide enough. Nice area to work off of.
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Welded in the rib.
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Then cut a cardboard template them some 16 gauge metal.
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And tacked it in place.
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We test fitted the Sequoia hatch again, and did not like the way it fitted, so decided to cut top 4 inches off.
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Welded it to shop table first to keep it square.
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Then chop chop. Did one side at time.
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Then started bending some steel to reinforce where I'm cutting off


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Very cool progress. Maybe a picture of Josh learning to tack weld?
 

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