Fatgirl build

[05CTD]

I haven’t been completely neglecting my project. Winter is hard to get time when I’m not at my job I am usually plowing snow. Got some time today and built rear crossmember with atlas ring mount and recess for exhaust to come through.

 

[Firemedic831]

Are you going to be able to remove the T-case with that crossmember ?

 

[05CTD]

Yes I made sure it would clear. I have to rotate it up to come out or just pull everything motor trans/t-case. I made sure the mount bolt would clear both 45 deg supports so I could get it out by itself if need be.

 

[05CTD]

So I have a confer rear tank in really great shape and I am leaning towards putting my LS pump and level sender into that tank and making it my primary tank and feeding it from stock tank with low psi inline pump for transferring the fuel to the rear tank. Anyone done this? I am also leaning towards a "boyds" pump set up it comes with walboro pump but the part I like is everything is stainless steel. Also my sending unit is actually designed for a boat and uses all stainless minus float. I hope it all works out the way I picture it.

 

[05CTD]

So before I put my confer tank in I had to get my rear axle back in place. Well rear tank does not fit. I literally have 2 inches between the 14bolt truss and fuel tank. So I’m building a tank. I spent a few hours yesterday measuring and drawing up the tank so I can get all the pieces cut on the water jet this week.

I also did some more measuring.
103 in wheelbase
32 in Rear driveshaft
37 in front drive shaft
Without body on my flat skid plate is 23 in high sitting on 40’s

Just a little update

 

[Skleet]

Nice work

Have a couple of quick questions/observations. When I installed my atlas I read that Advance Adapters recommends that u do not use a mount on the unit and just let it hang. Didn't like the idea of that much weight just hanging off the trans so found different retail options but ended up building a custom unit that used the inspection plate mounting point. One of the things I found during my research was that AA specifically states not to use a rear output shaft housing mount like urs as they will not warranty a unit set up like so.... I can c in one of ur pics that u have ur atlas mount (the bushing flex points) running perpendicular to the main frame rails and a diff mount (not 100% sure what to, as I couldn't find a clear pic of said) coming off the left frame rail running parallel, to say u have ur mount flex/movement running in a manner that they work against the other..... there is a lot of good info on said subjects if u spend so time searching/researching the topic. Again nice build and work, looking forward to cing what's next.

 

[05CTD]

Nice work

Have a couple of quick questions/observations. When I installed my atlas I read that Advance Adapters recommends that u do not use a mount on the unit and just let it hang. Didn't like the idea of that much weight just hanging off the trans so found different retail options but ended up building a custom unit that used the inspection plate mounting point. One of the things I found during my research was that AA specifically states not to use a rear output shaft housing mount like urs as they will not warranty a unit set up like so.... I can c in one of ur pics that u have ur atlas mount (the bushing flex points) running perpendicular to the main frame rails and a diff mount (not 100% sure what to, as I couldn't find a clear pic of said) coming off the left frame rail running parallel, to say u have ur mount flex/movement running in a manner that they work against the other..... there is a lot of good info on said subjects if u spend so time searching/researching the topic. Again nice build and work, looking forward to cing what's next.

I am building this not to be a wheeler for crazy trails and I am old enough that I've tested full throttle assaults' and don't wish to pay for parts like I used too. 95% plus of this things use will be hunting and snow wheeling. I also agree with that much weight not hanging off the rear unsupported.

I broke a K case TH350 right at the tail of the housing, it snapped right off. Poor casting of the housing maybe? Extra weight of unsupported t/case make it worse?

I have the mount under the rear output and a crossmember mount between the trans and t/case on the adapter foot. What I did was make all my mount bushings for engine transmission and atlas out of the same durometer poly bushings. Do I know if it will work or not, well I had everything mounted similar in a tube buggy years ago and literally beat the piss out of it. I broke about everything else except the mounts. I honestly wasn't going to run a rear mount but I decided to. What I did do was not smoke down the ring around the output shaft, its snug but if push came to shove I'm fairly certain it would rotate inside the mount. Plus like you said I should have researched it more. Can you post a picture of how you did yours so I can take a look?

 

[Skleet]

These R from when I was building this part of the project, Frame and suspension are now painted, built a skid plate that ties the two cross members in the pic together while protecting the mount from rocks.

 

[05CTD]

These R from when I was building this part of the project, Frame and suspension are now painted, built a skid plate that ties the two cross members in the pic together while protecting the mount from rocks.

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I like the mount. You definitely put some thought into that. I do have a question. You are running flat flanges what U joint did you end up running? I was originally going to run toyota joints but after talking to drive shaft shop they recommended running at least 1350 you joints. I actually bought the flanges for toyota joints already for the dana 60 and 14 bolt. Just wondering and thank you for the pics...

 

[Skleet]

I ended up changing over to the flat 1350 ford 2" indexed AA flanges, used 2x driveshafts from the front of some ford 6.0L diesel trucks, the 1350 fits up with the Tundra 10.5" flange I have front and rear (diffs), and the driveshaft place changed the length to fit my needs. Had to drill out the ford flange threads and ordered some 12pt bolts from McMasters to get the clearance needed to bolt the driveshafts up to the AA flange.
Not the best pic but:

 

[Bripars40]

I ended up changing over to the flat 1350 ford 2" indexed AA flanges, used 2x driveshafts from the front of some ford 6.0L diesel trucks, the 1350 fits up with the Tundra 10.5" flange I have front and rear (diffs), and the driveshaft place changed the length to fit my needs. Had to drill out the ford flange threads and ordered some 12pt bolts from McMasters to get the clearance needed to bolt the driveshafts up to the AA flange.
Not the best pic but:
View attachment 3234870

Do you have any more info on your build? Would love to see the work you put into making the Tundra diffs work!

 

[EWheeler]

Do you have any more info on your build? Would love to see the work you put into making the Tundra diffs work!

Ditto. Very curious how the front axle was built out....

 

[Skleet]

Do you have any more info on your build? Would love to see the work you put into making the Tundra diffs work!

Ditto. Very curious how the front axle was built out....

Just to b clear my build uses a 3rd gen 4runner base not an FJ, I was just commenting on general info on @05CTD build that can apply to any build, just want to make sure it wasn't come across like the Tundra diff is on an FJ base like u all are running and this is what u wanted info on/for...

 

[05CTD]

Here are the spacers I turned at work to add to my shackles so the creeper joints would equal the same width as my FJ62 rear springs. I’ll post pictures finished so it shows the perspective.

 

[05CTD]

Here are the spacers I turned at work to add to my shackles so the creeper joints would equal the same width as my FJ62 rear springs. I’ll post pictures finished so it shows the perspective.

 

[05CTD]

Here are the spacers and creeper joints so you see why I made the spacers and used them

 

[05CTD]

Next up I’m welding my rear tank up, putting my walboro pump in for LS sender for fuel gauge and installing it. Then shock hoops front and rear. Body back on soon after.

 

[05CTD]

Well I didn’t get the steel back for my tank. My buddy is cutting it on his laser and bending it on his CNC press. Bottom/front back will be one piece 1/4 steel. Sides and top will be 14 gauge.

So this morning I built and tacked on my rear shock hoops. Not finished yet once body on and cage built I will be adding tube from shock hoop to rear frame tie in tube to support the roll cage.

I also realized the welding gas store gave me a bottle of Argon instead of Stargon, so my welder is welding like garbage. So I only tacked everything till welding gas place opens Monday.

 

[Broski]

Well I didn’t get the steel back for my tank. My buddy is cutting it on his laser and bending it on his CNC press. Bottom/front back will be one piece 1/4 steel. Sides and top will be 14 gauge.

So this morning I built and tacked on my rear shock hoops. Not finished yet once body on and cage built I will be adding tube from shock hoop to rear frame tie in tube to support the roll cage.

I also realized the welding gas store gave me a bottle of Argon instead of Stargon, so my welder is welding like garbage. So I only tacked everything till welding gas place opens Monday.

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View attachment 3264070

What kind of welder do you use that uses stargon gas.
I'm a hack welder but with my millermatic 250 I run 75% argon/ 25% carbon is there a better choice ?

 

[05CTD]

What kind of welder do you use that uses stargon gas.
I'm a hack welder but with my millermatic 250 I run 75% argon/ 25% carbon is there a better choice ?

That’s what the welding shop calls it. It’s 75/25. The other shop I get welding gas from calls it Blueshield 7.