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- #21
Got my spring mount winch mount bumper on and add a top strap on winch mount. It was quite the wrestling match by myself. Dana 60 and springs going under it tomorrow
Fatgirl build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 05CTD
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- #22
Finally got the Dana 60 under the front of fat girl. Removed bottom two springs out of FJ60 spring pack. Next is building the shackle hangers and shackles for the front end.
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- #23
Bought a new TIG welder to use on the fatgirl. Here’s one of the break in welds. Not to bad for not tig welding in past couple years
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- #24
Got a little more done this weekend. Made end caps and measured out frame notch for outboarding front spring shackle hanger. Im gonna fire up the plasma tonight and quit second guessing myself.
I do have a question I have never used them but what do you think of the scotch brite type wheels for the 4 1/2 in grinder. I have a good bit of metal and I stored it outside under tarp behind my house and the tarp sometime this winter got blown off and have a good bit of surface rust to remove.
Thanks for any and all help.
I do have a question I have never used them but what do you think of the scotch brite type wheels for the 4 1/2 in grinder. I have a good bit of metal and I stored it outside under tarp behind my house and the tarp sometime this winter got blown off and have a good bit of surface rust to remove.
Thanks for any and all help.
when i worked in sanitary piping we used the red scotch brite wheels on the 5"grinders to clean welds all the time they did really good on SS for removing color and carbon without gouging into the metal unless you excessively held it still.
warning. you catch a sharp edge with them and it will tear chunks out of the wheel and can get a little spooky.
i have the part number of the ones i have used in the past at home if you want.
A flapper wheel will be a better option than scotch brite. Another option would be a wire wheel to remove loose stuff, and then a dual action sander with an aggressive grit to clean it up to fresh metal below the surface oxidation. I really like the surface finish on clean bare metal from a dual action sander. It also leaves the surface well prepped for paint/coating. Or, instead of mechanical you could go chemical removal and use some naval jelly or evaoprust to clean the area you want to cut out/use before your cut it out. Quickest would be to find a friend with a sand blaster and that will ensure the metal is clean. The scotch brite pads are expensive and in my experience best used for stainless like @Ryan Towry stated.
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- #27
Thanks for the answers. I found some on Amazon they worked ok. I use dual acting sander quite a bit as well as flapper discs.
I broke a couple fingers and got a pretty good concussion this week at work. Someone placed a piece of flat stock on the metal rack for box and tube. It was on the top shelf when I pulled out the piece of box steel off the bottom shelf it was just enough for the 1/4in plate to fall off the top. It hit my head then landed on my hand on the saw table breaking 2 fingers. I was a little unhappy. Been off work since last Tuesday Dr said give concussion a week then come back.
I worked on my bumper a bit today I think it’s turned out pretty well. Let me know what you think.
You can see on the bumper where I tried out the scotch brute discs as well
I broke a couple fingers and got a pretty good concussion this week at work. Someone placed a piece of flat stock on the metal rack for box and tube. It was on the top shelf when I pulled out the piece of box steel off the bottom shelf it was just enough for the 1/4in plate to fall off the top. It hit my head then landed on my hand on the saw table breaking 2 fingers. I was a little unhappy. Been off work since last Tuesday Dr said give concussion a week then come back.
I worked on my bumper a bit today I think it’s turned out pretty well. Let me know what you think.
You can see on the bumper where I tried out the scotch brute discs as well
That looks rad!
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- #29
Here the side view
That is some pure BEEF right there!! Like the ingenuity and outside the box thinking. How did you get the radius on the flat bar so tight to OD of tube, just heat red hot and bend around it? is that tube straight, or does it have a slight bend to it? It may be an optical illusion, but looks like it has a bend in center. It looks great regardless of bend/no bend, just curious.
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- #31
Its an optical illusion. If you look down on the floor one tire is closer to me then the other (piss poor camera man) and I used the scotch brite discs on only half the bar. The cross tube on top is 2in - 1/4in wall DOM. I didnt use heat I cold bent the flat bar. I would put a little pressure on it the way I wanted it to bend and then tap it with 40oz brass hammer. Once I got it around the tube tight I used Kant Twist clamps to squeeze it down even tighter.
I am building this as a hunting/wheeling rig. Some of the things I will be doing I would not do to a dedicated wheeler. Like the front and rear bumpers. Along with the bumpers I am building tube fenders. So if I happen to hit a deer (which seems to happen to every rig I build) the rig will win. Built the wife a 66 Mustang coupe I converted to a fast back several years ago and had less than 1K miles on it when I hit a deer and got to rebuild the front end a second time.
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- #32
I’ve been working on notching my frame to get caster angle back within reason and moving my front shackle hanger up to almost the top of original frame rail but first I have to make bushing mounts. I used 2 1/4 1/4 in wall DOM to make bushing sleeves and turned ID to fit FJ60 bushings. I cut a taper on the end (about 1/8 inch) and beveled the plate to TIG together. Turned out OK. I water jetted some parts for the notch at work out of 1/4in steel with several rosette holes to fill. Here is how I did my bushing sleeves. Will post more tonight. Double passes with TIG to fill in V I cut
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- #33
Well I haven’t been completely screwing off. I just about have my shackle mounts for front springs done. While I am going full width I didn’t want to try to cut and turn the knuckles or run shims. Now I’m not done yet but here is a progress picture in my overfill shop. I made plates for each side of frame and had them water jetted at work. Each plate has 12 rosette welds (1/2 tapered. On top of the frame rail I welded a 2”x2”x.250 piece of box steel that the .250 plates are welded to. I also cut a plate to go under and make the outboard mount for my springs. I also plated the top of 2x2 with another .250 rosette and welded together. Lots of other parts and pieces to these mounts but I will be running without shims or cut and turn. Well here’s a pic.
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- #34
Well it’s on the front springs and everything is temporary together I got the caster I was looking for back. Each side where I notched the frame has 16 total pieces in each. I am 100% positive it is stronger than the original frame. I am happy with it minus the shackle angle so I am ordering two top springs per side 2in longer with military wrap on both ends .
*** Safety advice do not try to remove your 40 off Jack stands with high lift there is a distinct possibility it will tip over. Ask me how I know I’m pretty sure my @ss sucked up some boxers.***
Last two pics are where I tigged on 1/4in spacer to the top inside shackle plate because I used shorter tube by 1/4 and I made my own 3/4in greasable bolts for shackle top bolts.
*** Safety advice do not try to remove your 40 off Jack stands with high lift there is a distinct possibility it will tip over. Ask me how I know I’m pretty sure my @ss sucked up some boxers.***
Last two pics are where I tigged on 1/4in spacer to the top inside shackle plate because I used shorter tube by 1/4 and I made my own 3/4in greasable bolts for shackle top bolts.
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- #35
Question for the masses: Who has a fab table? I am building one. I got a 60"x36"x3/4" piece of steel I am going to use for the top. Frame is going to be primarily out of 2"x4"x3/16" rectangular box steel. I've been looking online at others and on youtube at ones people have built. My biggest question is what grid pattern would you run I've seen lots on 2x2, 3x3, and 4x4 patterns. I really want to run 2x2 pattern but I did the math and that is 496 5/8" holes. I am having a template cut out of 1/2 6061 with 1 in holes and will be using a drill guide 1in OD 5/8 ID. I'm having a buddy CNC out the template and have to decide on the grid pattern. This way I can use the mag drill with 5/8 in locating pin then use 9/16 annular cutter and last step use a reamer to 5/8. Last step after all the holes is I will send it out to be surface ground or maybe blanchard ground. Also I am going to set it up with at least one shelf on drawer slide and set my TIG up in. I've already been building fixture pins, clamps and already made a plate for new vise I just have to put whatever pattern I decide on in to be able to mount and remove vice off fixture table. Thanks for any and all thoughts on it...
Find a shop with a CNC plasma table, or laser, and have them cut the 2x2 pattern into the table for you.
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- #37
Im looking into laser cutting it now I requested a couple quotes but I know water jet leaves to much taper in the holes for what I need. I'll have to check if there is any taper to plasma I am not sure.
that is a bunch of hole reaming. I have always gotten by by a flat table and tacking it onto the table.
My experience has been the opposite on thick plate for CNC'd holes. Plasma leaves a very unacceptable taper, a 4 degree taper is acceptable per Hypertherms guidelines. Every hole we cut with our plasma table gets reamed. It sucks, but it still takes way less time than laying them out and drilling them. If I wanted something accurate and precise I would waterjet cut it. I don't have any experience with Laser cutting.
Honestly, when you're talking about reaming holes drilled that were with an annular cutter, and then having the table blanchard ground, I think you're going waaaay overboard on this table. Are you building spaceframes for Space-X on this fixture table? You're going to be thousands into this thing. Put the energy and money into the build. My $0.02.
We have a stronghand fixture table, 4x4. Looks like this:
www.northerntool.com
Previous shop foreman bought it and it just sits in the corner, gets used maybe 1 or 2 times a month.
Take a look into something like this:
www.langmuirsystems.com
I would buy a couple of these before buying the stronghand table.
Strong Hand Tools BuildPro Modular Welding Table, Model# TMA54738 | Northern Tool
The BuildPro is an affordable, precision welding table, comprised of precision ground steel plates with CNC machined 5/8in. holes in a 2in. grid pa...
www.northerntool.com
Previous shop foreman bought it and it just sits in the corner, gets used maybe 1 or 2 times a month.
Take a look into something like this:
ArcFlat Modular Fixture Weld Table | Langmuir Systems
www.langmuirsystems.com
I would buy a couple of these before buying the stronghand table.
