Builds Family haulin' (1 Viewer)

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I was thinking in line locks too .. but I don't want a re-route my rear brake line in to the cabin and then back out to my rear calipers ..

Those electric solenoid controlled line locks are reliable .. ?

Are few in eBay around 60 bucks .. honestly I prefer something more mechanical .. but .. I just seen my options ..

Comments about line locks . ? ( sorry if it's considered hijack Mike )
 
At least right now the main reason I am setting up an Ebrake is to pass tech inspection at Rubithon. I didn't think line locks would count so I've been looking at other options. I think I will try out the wilwood caliper since it's only $60. Worth a try I'm thinking.
 
boots4 said:
At least right now the main reason I am setting up an Ebrake is to pass tech inspection at Rubithon. I didn't think line locks would count so I've been looking at other options. I think I will try out the wilwood caliper since it's only $60. Worth a try I'm thinking.
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I am interested in the results... :popcorn:
 
I just got my Rubithon packet today and on the vehicle requirements it states this for the Mechanical Parking Brake:
Must be able to stall engine when idling in 3rd gear (2nd gear if 3 speed, functioning line lock will be accepted)

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So I could use a line lock to pass the tech inspection. This would be easier to set up and I know those rear calipers would hold me so now I'm tempted to go with link locks instead. I did just order a mech. caliper but it won't ship until the 22nd so I could cancel. I'm loosing a week of cruiser time this month so the simpler route may be better.
 
Ron at Custom Cruisers FJ40 in Gilroy has a kit that includes a Swagelok valve. It's mechanical so there's no worry about wiring and stuff.

Best way to contact him is by phone - Custom Cruisers FJ40

Phil
 
pjohnson said:
Ron at Custom Cruisers FJ40 in Gilroy has a kit that includes a Swagelok valve. It's mechanical so there's no worry about wiring and stuff.

Best way to contact him is by phone - Custom Cruisers FJ40

Phil
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Did you have a pic or more info . ? I was browsing at the website with no success .. Mike which line lock you will order . ?
 
brokenparts said:
saw this over on pirate... I kinda like the idea of the lever.

AFCO: BRAKE SHUT OFF VALVE W/FITTINGS
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I canceled my order for the mechanical caliper and will be going with a line lock. I like this style the best and plan to mount it so the lever is in the way of something when engaged. It'll be like a mechanical dummy light.
 
boots4 said:
I canceled my order for the mechanical caliper and will be going with a line lock. I like this style the best and plan to mount it so the lever is in the way of something when engaged. It'll be like a mechanical dummy light.
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Here in TX we have to have a working parking brake to pass safety inspection to be street legal, and line locks don't count.

Do you guys have the same issue?
 
Nope, all they really care about here is sticking it up your tail pipe or plugging in to your computer (96 and newer) and then collecting their fee.

I do understand this isn't a legal parking brake (not a separate system). This is going to be the easiest way to pass the tech inspection for a TLCA event.

Things to get done before Rubithon include:

  • upgrade to PP rear axles - ordered this week
  • rear locker - ordered this week
  • parking brake for tech inspection - researching line locks now
  • finish rear quarter protection - tube bending on the 17th
  • front bumper and fender protection -tube bending on the 17th
  • skid plate - started cutting scrap
  • wiring for ready welder - got the cable just need some clamps and a connector
  • CB radio and antenna - researching
  • build rear platform for sleeping in the rig
  • 16" rims for spare tire - searching
  • replace front shocks - ordered this week
  • build anti wrap bar - research done and ready to build, just need to order a JJoint (ordered today), bushings ordered last week, copy brokenparts wrap brackets using his plasma :D
Plus of course my own maintenance inspection for the trip. I'm loosing a week (vacation) this month and have family moving to the area in two weeks so I hope to get this all done.
 
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Tapage said:
This brake valve means you need to route your brake line in to the cabin .. I wanna get some ideas about it.
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I've got my location for the valve picked out and it will go on the tranny hump next to my shifter on the driver side. Basically ~8" away from the ebrake handle. Probably the only trick to it will be allowing some give/flexibility between body and frame from where I tie it in. I'll splice the line going to the rear brakes close to mid frame and run those lines under the body to where I put the valve. If this doesn't make much sense it will in the next couple of weeks when I get pics during the install.
 
boots4 said:
I've got my location for the valve picked out and it will go on the tranny hump next to my shifter on the driver side. Basically ~8" away from the ebrake handle. Probably the only trick to it will be allowing some give/flexibility between body and frame from where I tie it in. I'll splice the line going to the rear brakes close to mid frame and run those lines under the body to where I put the valve. If this doesn't make much sense it will in the next couple of weeks when I get pics during the install.
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To get that necessary flex between the body and the frame, have you thought about using some old rubber brake lines or some short SS lines? The SS lines would be for bling factor of course.
 
weekly update

I've been prepping my :princess: for another round of spending on Dora so she was ready for me to place a couple orders as noted up above.

Started on the frame mounts for the skid plate. I decided how long I wanted it and cut some pieces out from the stepvan frame. Yup, I'm still nibbling on that thing. Then I shaped them to the frame and clearanced for existing frame obstructions. There is a bend in the frame that I needed to follow so I notched the pieces and got the angle. I welded on a piece to keep my angle while I filled the gap with weld.

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I filled in the gap and checked my fitment. I grabbed a piece of cardboard to get bolt hole locations so I could transfer those to the pieces I shaped.

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After I drilled out one side I noticed that the other side was the same so I used my drilled side to transfer holes to the other side.

P5050013.JPG


Here's the driver side

P5050016.JPG


And the passenger side

P5050017.JPG


From here I can make crossmembers to attach the plates to. I like the access so I won't be making a soild plate from one side to the other.
 
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GLTHFJ60 said:
To get that necessary flex between the body and the frame, have you thought about using some old rubber brake lines or some short SS lines? The SS lines would be for bling factor of course.
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I was just going to put a coil in them like the body to frame junction under the hood. If I can I'd like to have just four connections, two at the valve and two at the splice.
 
boots4 said:
I was just going to put a coil in them like the body to frame junction under the hood. If I can I'd like to have just four connections, two at the valve and two at the splice.
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Gotcha. Probably makes more sense that way with less places for fluid to leak.

Using a frame to make a skidplate :hhmm: Definitely a great idea.
 
I'll be interested to see what you come up with for the skidplate. Are you doing a solid plate, or using tube and just plating to protect the lowest and most vulnerable parts?

I built a skid few years back for my 40 using the same style frame mounts you did. The skidplate (not the mounts) wasn't great, and I've never liked it and now it is about bent up enough that I need to redo it.
 
CruisinGA said:
I'll be interested to see what you come up with for the skidplate. Are you doing a solid plate, or using tube and just plating to protect the lowest and most vulnerable parts?
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The initial plan is to plate the areas that would do damage which will definitely be the lowest parts and maybe just a little more. I plan to make the frame first and then plate that. Not sure if I'll use square or round tube.
 
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