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- Thread starter
- #844
I did get some pics of the rear bumper but will take a full one This week. These were at the event.
I think I'll add a little more material at the bottom connection of the bumper and slider to make the transition smoother.
I still plan for tube for quarter panel protection and want to redo my shackle mounts. After that I'll paint it one color, probably with rustbullet to match the sliders.
I think I'll add a little more material at the bottom connection of the bumper and slider to make the transition smoother.
I still plan for tube for quarter panel protection and want to redo my shackle mounts. After that I'll paint it one color, probably with rustbullet to match the sliders.
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- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
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- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
Looks like you need to bend some tube for the quarters... 
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
ankle is pretty much back to normal... soccer is over too. I might have Sat or Sun free this weekend if you want to get some time in on the bender (still got to run it passed my social director).
I might have Sat or Sun free this weekend if you want to get some time in on the bender (still got to run it passed my social director).- Thread starter
- #850
weekly update
I live near a freeway and a well used set of train tracks and was getting small rust flecks on my paint due to rail dust embedding and then starting to rust. An effective way to get rid of them is to clay bar the paint so I spent a day last week cleaning up dora and cleaning off the paint. With the shot of warm weather we had I spent much needed time on the yard.
This week I got the mud flaps put back on. I could salvage the frame mounts but had to make new mounting bars for the flaps. I cut about 3" off of the flap length and welded them back on. Also got a full shot of the bumper. I liked how Weaklink's FJ60 rear protection turned out but if I mimick his I'll block my rear lights so I'm going over different ways to run some tube.
Rear frame rails are starting to get busy. I picked up some black paint and slapped on a coat later that day.
Here's a pic of a failing seal on a Bilstein 5150. I've decided to step up to Bilstein 7100s with stiffer valving that is rebuildable. I might have to do a little more clearancing to get the bigger shock body to fit, we'll see. Dora is getting bouncy so I need to get those ordered soon.
I should still have enough clearance on my low-profile steering joint I melted together.
Then I got side-tracked and bought a big-wheeled radio flyer at Harbor Freight for $40.
I'm turning it into my new welding cart. I shortened it by 8" and added some structural support tieing in the front and rear axles so it would better support the weight of the batteries. That unibody stuff was too floppy.
I stood in it and it held my weight and I weight more than two batteries. I plopped my batteries in there and yanked it around the yard.
I think I'm going to beef up the turning part of it by sacrificing a caster with ball bearings and replace the bolt that allows it to turn. I'm also going to lengthen the handle another couple of inches and build a rack for my mask, cords, welder, etc. It definitely rolls much easier over the grass now and makes it more portable on differing terrain. Now I can air down if I need more floatation.
The old cart got cut up for another project. The base was almost the same size as a set of metal shelves I pulled from the forest during our clean up. I took the shelves home, cleaned them up, made some longer legs and welded it to the base and now I have a little metal cart.
I'm feeling the crunch for getting things ready for rubithon. Looks like I'll be firing up the credit card for a few more items soon.
I live near a freeway and a well used set of train tracks and was getting small rust flecks on my paint due to rail dust embedding and then starting to rust. An effective way to get rid of them is to clay bar the paint so I spent a day last week cleaning up dora and cleaning off the paint. With the shot of warm weather we had I spent much needed time on the yard.
This week I got the mud flaps put back on. I could salvage the frame mounts but had to make new mounting bars for the flaps. I cut about 3" off of the flap length and welded them back on. Also got a full shot of the bumper. I liked how Weaklink's FJ60 rear protection turned out but if I mimick his I'll block my rear lights so I'm going over different ways to run some tube.
Rear frame rails are starting to get busy. I picked up some black paint and slapped on a coat later that day.
Here's a pic of a failing seal on a Bilstein 5150. I've decided to step up to Bilstein 7100s with stiffer valving that is rebuildable. I might have to do a little more clearancing to get the bigger shock body to fit, we'll see. Dora is getting bouncy so I need to get those ordered soon.
I should still have enough clearance on my low-profile steering joint I melted together.
Then I got side-tracked and bought a big-wheeled radio flyer at Harbor Freight for $40.
I'm turning it into my new welding cart. I shortened it by 8" and added some structural support tieing in the front and rear axles so it would better support the weight of the batteries. That unibody stuff was too floppy.
I stood in it and it held my weight and I weight more than two batteries. I plopped my batteries in there and yanked it around the yard.
I think I'm going to beef up the turning part of it by sacrificing a caster with ball bearings and replace the bolt that allows it to turn. I'm also going to lengthen the handle another couple of inches and build a rack for my mask, cords, welder, etc. It definitely rolls much easier over the grass now and makes it more portable on differing terrain. Now I can air down if I need more floatation.
The old cart got cut up for another project. The base was almost the same size as a set of metal shelves I pulled from the forest during our clean up. I took the shelves home, cleaned them up, made some longer legs and welded it to the base and now I have a little metal cart.
I'm feeling the crunch for getting things ready for rubithon. Looks like I'll be firing up the credit card for a few more items soon.
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That's awesome! Great idea on the radio flyer welding cart.
For a guy who's about to do his SOA, would you recommend going with 7100's right off the bat? It seems like a lot of people are having problems with the 5150's.
By the way, that's not rust
For a guy who's about to do his SOA, would you recommend going with 7100's right off the bat? It seems like a lot of people are having problems with the 5150's.
By the way, that's not rust
- Thread starter
- #852
I would stay away from the 5150s because of the seal issues. The 5100s and 5125s don't seem to have the same seal issues. Wish I would have known before I picked those up but at least I got a good deal on them. I wanted to go with a rebuildable for savings over the long run and plus I need firmer valving due to more weight and bigger tires. I checked out FOX, Kings, and some others but I couldn't open my wallet that big. I'm interested in the ProComps but the MX6Rs don't come in 14" and I haven't found much about the MX2.OR on reviews or how firm they are. Dual shocks would probably work out better but I don't want to deal with packaging them up front. Out in the rear I'll probably go that direction down the line. I decided on the 7100s due to the dessert racer following and mostly positive stuff I've read about them. I won't ever run through the woops like those guys do and if the shocks can hold up to that abuse they should hold up to mine. The other nice thing about the 7100s is that you can change the firmness yourself (read about it in the rebuild PDF on their website). Guess I'm just blabbing my reasons to help you decide for yourself. If you can afford a better shock, you'll see better results.
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Do the Bilstein's care if you run can up or can down?
Sorry, the shock body.
EDIT: But now that I think about it, that's dumb question with the remote reservoir. Was thinking you could flip the shock to gain some clearance on the top end. LOL
My thought process was that shock body down would hang the reservoir tubing down to be snagged by some wayward trail debris or rabid squirrel.
- Thread starter
- #858
Parking brake idea:
Wilwood has a little mechanical caliper at a good price that I'm thinking about playing with for a parking brake. I could buy one and make a tcase pbrake or I could buy two and mate them to my rear discs. Both have certain complications but do you think just a cable pull on that cam-actuated lever is going to produce enough clamping power?
Wilwood has a little mechanical caliper at a good price that I'm thinking about playing with for a parking brake. I could buy one and make a tcase pbrake or I could buy two and mate them to my rear discs. Both have certain complications but do you think just a cable pull on that cam-actuated lever is going to produce enough clamping power?
Mike .. I was thinking for a long time in the e-brake for Tencha .. eldo calipers with e-brake are useless .. and then I was looking to the TSM rear disc e-brake kit .. ( was bit of money ) but if you do something that hold .. I will be interested ..
- Joined
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- 4,044
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- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
this is what I am thinking for parking brakes. I really would like to run one for each rear tire for front digs.
Poly Performance Inc.*::*Braking*::*Jamar Brake Parts*::*Jamar Line Lock - JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CTM, Johnny Joints®, Currie Enterprises, Edelbrock, Total Chaos, Ramsey Winch, Walker Evans, Wilwood, Mastercraft, CNC B
Poly Performance Inc.*::*Braking*::*Jamar Brake Parts*::*Jamar Line Lock - JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CTM, Johnny Joints®, Currie Enterprises, Edelbrock, Total Chaos, Ramsey Winch, Walker Evans, Wilwood, Mastercraft, CNC B