Builds Family haulin' (1 Viewer)

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I was having some minor fueling issues and then I noticed that my AFC housing was starting to leak diesel. This usually means that fuel is getting by the o-ring seal on the guide pin that rides on the fuel pin and adds fuel as boost increases. When I pulled it apart I saw that my rubber diaphragm was cracked and leaking boost. I tried to patch it with some sealant to buy me a little time but that really didn't hold up and so I ordered a new one to replace it. It is sandwiched between two cup washers and fits on the top of the fuel pin. Here it is all apart.

Part of my theory of why I was getting diesel into the AFC housing was because boost would hit the top of the diaphragm, go through the crack and exit the vent hole in the chamber below the diaphragm. This created a kind of venturi effect creating negative pressure in the AFC chamber and helped suck fuel passed the o-ring. It only seemed to leak when I was building boost. Due to the crack in the diaphragm I wasn't fueling as hard and lost some overall boost pressure.

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The old one on the left with the crack at 6 o'clock. New one on the right upside down from the old one.

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While I was there and was going to replace the guide pin o-ring, which requires removing the top of the injection pump, I had read up about different length guide pins and found the following part numbers:

Bosch guide pins
1 463 105 416 (23.8mm long)
1 463 105 363 (24.3mm long)
1 463 105 364 (24.8mm long)

An older thread talked about how the longer pin helped reduce their bottom end fueling and reduced low end smoke. The pins were only 12$ a piece from my local injection shop so I picked up the longest version to see what it would do.

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I didn't know what original length I had in my pump and my digital calipers broke so all I could really do until I got another set was to eyeball the difference. The top is the new longest pin and the bottom is my old pin.

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The results were that I did reduce some fueling but that I couldn't build into the 50psi range that I was after even with power screw adjustments. It lost a little bit of snappiness on the throttle and the midrange wasn't as strong. I played with the power screw, smoke screw, and AFC spring tension but I didn't see a big difference in low end smoke, it was still more hazy than I'd like. Plus, the AFC housing started to leak again. I decided to try the next size smaller and pull the top off the injection pump again. I bought the 363 guide pin and did another comparison. Original on the left, new in the middle, longest on the right. It looks to me like my original and the new are the same length.

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I put the new guide pin in and reused my o-ring. No more leaking. Maybe the longest one is a little skinnier or something but the same o-ring now seems to seal fine. I didn't do anything different on replacing the guide pin either but maybe I botched that somehow. I did get some snappiness back and a stronger midrange returned. I tuned it back for power and 50psi is back. It's still hazing so the next fueling mod will be injector nozzles.
 
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I didn't see a big difference in low end smoke, it was still more hazy than I'd like
How much timing are you running?

I’ve been road testing lately with more than what I would have thought was acceptable amounts of timing. When I went from 16° to 18°of pump timing my EGT’s dropped 300° and low end haze cleared up with identical fueling. I’ve gone as high as 22° but the benefits leveled out around the 16/18 mark so that’s where I’m running now.

On a side note, one of these would be handy if you where going to be experimenting with timing and don't have an adjustable gear with degree indexes to get exact and repeatable changes to your timing.
Amazon.com: Sealey Timing Light Diesel Converter Box: Automotive
 
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I'm running between 15-16 degrees advanced as a static setting. The VE injection pumps have a timing advance function built in and I've also added and M&H spacer that allows more advance as the rpms build.
M & H Inc. - Dynamic Timing Device

Pulling this from memory (disclaimer: just turned 40 so my memory may be starting to go) the VE pump will advance up to 6 degrees and with the spacer it will advance more, maybe a total of 10-ish. So if I set my static timing high it only gets higher as I build rpms and that could increase my cylinder pressure too much considering the boost I'm playing at.

That's a nice unit. Another way on the VE's is to measure the lift in mm at a port near the injector lines using an adapter like this plus a dial indicator. Someday I order one.

VW Bosch VE Fuel Injection Pump Adapter Timing Tool KIT | eBay
 
Sweet stuff! Its scary dipping into those injector pumps at first. But they ain't to complicated after all. 50 psi Holy phuck. It must be fun to drive. I have 2 less cylinders and half the boost and my truck is still hella fun to drive.
 
Sweet stuff! Its scary dipping into those injector pumps at first. But they ain't to complicated after all. 50 psi Holy phuck. It must be fun to drive. I have 2 less cylinders and half the boost and my truck is still hella fun to drive.

You have a 2 cyl diesel?
 
Whoops! maybe I should read the thread first. lol. I thought you had a 6bt, my bad. 4bts are sweet too. Maybe I was just assuming due to the 50 pounds of boost. wow!
 
Lost my horn for a while. Decided I needed it back for "commuting duties". Found that my pin had worn away so I grabbed the part number from the forum somewhere and ordered one from ebay.

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Tried to replace it with this module still mounted to the steering column but quickly decided it was easier to just remove it to get the access I needed to deal with that c-clip. Now I'm back to communicating with the other drivers on the road.

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Did some more snow wheeling out in TSF. We weren't sure how much or what kind of snow we'd actually run into but there was plenty to play in.

Kids playing up top near crushers trail.

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Big kids telling stories.

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There was a climb causing some traction issues so the kids got out to play King of the hill while we got the trucks up the road.

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Snow was wet but not slushy yet. The 1st gen 4-runner was set up nicely but the driver wouldn't air down his tires so he had traction issues most of the day. He is backing out so I can yank out Creepersleeper who got into a deep drift just around the corner. It wasn't worth breaking through so we turned around and headed back down.

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It was a fun short trip as we all had other things going on later that day.
 
Let's see, here's some more stuff I've done that I haven't documented yet.

I swapped injectors again. I went from 5x.012 SAC tips back to 5x.012 VCO with new genuine bosch tips set at 247 bar pop pressure.

New on the left. I used the thinnest copper sealing washers again at .020"

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I decided to go back to the VCO tips because I wasn't happy with the idle haze and low end smoke I was getting with the SAC tips, even with the compound turbo set up and a great flowing air filter.

New VCO tip on the left compared to the SAC tip on the right.

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I remember adjusting my tune after the injector swap so I believe there was a minor power loss going back to VCO but I don't remember it being significant. My current tune is netting me 55psi of boost with no idle haze once warmed up and a reasonable haze under full power. I can puff out a minor black cloud if I merely throttle stomp it before the turbos spool from a stop. If I drive sanely I can keep it clean. Unloaded I get to about 1000F egts and about 1150F loaded going up the hill, otherwise I usually cruise in the 6-800F range on the highway. It's a pretty balanced tune and I haven't played with it much since.



Thought I'd give the LED headlight bulbs a try. I didn't choose the cheapest option but didn't buy the expensive either. If they sucked I didn't want to be far in the hole.

I'm using the e-code hella H4 housings I picked up last year.

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The H4 bulbs were what came with the housings, so just average nothing special bulbs. The LED bulbs have the cooling fan that runs under water (per the videos) but I was a little worried they'd be too long. They fit fine and plugged right into my factory harness. The LED bulbs do have a high and low. There are 3 chips and I think 2 are on at low setting and all 3 are on at high setting.

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I did have to modify the boot that goes on the back of the housing. I pretty much cut out the center on the grey boot and fastened down the LED bulb adapter (the LED bulb is two pieces and the ring just in front of the red oring above gets fastened to the headlight housing and then the LED bulb inserts into that ring and clicks in place).

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I aimed the housings down pretty good in case of glare and I need to go back and set that properly but I was pretty happy with the results. A lot more light than before and the color range is higher as seen in the below picture. High beams don't really add much and I don't feel I'd need them often anyways but properly aiming the light would probably improve that. I'm glad I switched. We'll see how durable they are but I would probably buy another set with the dramatic light increase I got. Now I'm going to have to upgrade the marker lights to LED so they are closer to the same color. The blinkers I'm still planning to leave as normal bulbs.

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I wanted to improve my alignment, in particular my camber. On the Dana60 axles you can buy a camber shim that goes behind the spindle to make adjustments. My axle came with a different sized plate on each side. I ran without them and with them and got alignment readings on both when I first started running the D60 up front. Without looked like too much positive camber (bottom of tires closer together than the tops) and running with the plates to add negative camber looked like too much (tops of tires closer together). Between the two the more negative camber felt better on the road so I ran with those. With these tires getting pretty close to replacement I wanted to get a just right setting that wouldn't cause the wear pattern I see on my current tires. I read a couple of alignment sites and concluded that factory settings for a landcruiser or for the dodge this axle came from wouldn't necessarily be the best because I don't have a factory set up. So I'm trying out some different settings. In general you usually run different camber values on each side to combat road crown with the side that needs to pull into road crown needing less negative camber. That meant for me my driver side needed less negative camber than my passenger side. The plates I had in there where doing the opposite. These shims are not easy to find (Rock auto had some) and the size I wanted was not easy to find so I ended keeping the passenger side as it was and getting a new shim that had less degrees to swap out on my driver side. Generally you don't want more than .5 degree difference between the two so I have 7/8 degree on my passenger and 5/8 degree on my driver. Before it was close to 2 degrees on the driver and 7/8 on the passenger.

Old on the left, new 5/8 degree on the right.

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This is where is goes. If you put the thick side on the top it will give you a push towards positive camber. With the thick side on the bottom, which is what I did it gives you a push towards negative camber. I say a push because it depends on how straight your axle is in the first place.

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Between the parts.

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Results: Nervous, I didn't like it. Not as stable at speed as it used to be.

I did find a little loosen of parts so I did some replacements.

New TRE's for the tie rod. I used these that are for a dodge application.

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They are shorter length on the shank but are the same thread. They are the same taper and have a better boot to seal things up. I wanted to give the "problem solvers" a try.

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The threaded insert was only so deep so I didn't feel the shorter shank length was going to reduce the strength any since all the threads are still engaged with the length of my tie rod.

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I also found a little slop in the joints on my hydroassist ram so I replaced those too, grabbed those from RuffStuff. Those were the original joints from 10 years ago.

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I did another alignment with the tighter parts and found I had way more toe in than I thought. Still with all the new parts and adjustments it was two hands on the wheel. I've concluded that it's tire wear. It's going to take a little while to re-wear these tires and over the last two months it has been improving but I don't think it will be perfect until I get new tires. The previous wear pattern will influence this at least to some degree until I swap them out. On flat smooth streets it's one handed but on the rutted roads it needs a little more attention. Once I get new tires if these settings don't improve things I'll try another one.


Had my heater control valve start leaking again. The patch job I did two years ago loosened up. I did patch it again but placed an order for a replacement and once it came in I swapped it out. No more loosing coolant. I'll keep the patched part as a spare just in case.

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I really like the Coopers. Also looking at a couple others just to spice things up. Ultimately funding will probably limit some options.
 
Probably have to stay with 37s. Not sure I could afford the bigger sizes. I really like the trepedors bias. Realistically I drive too much pavement to run those so I'm considering their radial version which doesn't excite me quite as much. I also dig the mud grapplers which could lend to fun grooving as they wear. I like their aggressive look. I have had good results with my wranglers but the prices have gone up. I haven't looked around recently so I don't know if any new stuff has popped up.
 
While not that exciting... Nitto Trail grapplers were a decent tire that I ran on my dodge a few years back. Not really good at any one thing but decent at everything. The price on them seems decent too. I believe Discount Tire carries them.
 
I've had good luck with Discount tire. I like the rebalance for life deal, great for meaty tires that get wheeled and sometimes come back with less rubber. I did utilize their replacement warranty on one of my wranglers last year and it was painless.
 
hmmm, perhaps a photo shoot is in order, when are you available? I could at least try to convince myself that 40+s are too big. Bring on the Blazer! We need to hit the sand.
 
hmmm, perhaps a photo shoot is in order, when are you available? I could at least try to convince myself that 40+s are too big. Bring on the Blazer! We need to hit the sand.

I'm around... I only work until 3 these days and usually free on Saturdays.

Sand would be fun... just built a 498 BBC stroker (full roller) for the blazer too.
 

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