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That's the route I'm going to go. I can't fit the air filter I want under the hood so we're going to cut into the hood! It's on the list for this year.
- Thread starter
- #2,383
One time going to work I noticed that my back window had a liquid on it that wasn't water. I was close so when I got to work I got out and saw a big puddle of oil underneath the truck and coating the underside which started to drip off of stuff. I grabbed a bunch of absorbent pads to soak up the oil and spent my lunch hour figuring out what happened. My primary turbo's drain line split. This is 7/8" silicone hose that is not popular to keep at stores but luckily the diesel shop I bought this from is local so I had my wife buy some more and bring it to me after work, along with 2 gals of oil. Yeah, out of a normally full 12 qt oil capacity I had only 2 qts left in the pan. It was good for a week or two and then it happened again just as I was pulling up at home.
These are pics from the second split, the first one was worse.
I concluded that my Tee needed to be modified. So I grabbed a new one as well as a 45 angle piece and soldered them together. I hadn't soldered a copper joint before but it was pretty easy after watching few youtube vids and having the right supplies. The angle helped alleviate the kink in the silicone hose that was forming from how things lined up. I also did not put any flares on the Tee this time since it looked like those flares cut into the hose. Silicone hose grips really well and since this just drains into the oil pan there's not a lot of pressure it has to deal with. Every since the change on the Tee it's been sealing well and giving me no problems. I now keep a long section of 7/8" silicone hose in the truck as a spare just in case.
These are pics from the second split, the first one was worse.
I concluded that my Tee needed to be modified. So I grabbed a new one as well as a 45 angle piece and soldered them together. I hadn't soldered a copper joint before but it was pretty easy after watching few youtube vids and having the right supplies. The angle helped alleviate the kink in the silicone hose that was forming from how things lined up. I also did not put any flares on the Tee this time since it looked like those flares cut into the hose. Silicone hose grips really well and since this just drains into the oil pan there's not a lot of pressure it has to deal with. Every since the change on the Tee it's been sealing well and giving me no problems. I now keep a long section of 7/8" silicone hose in the truck as a spare just in case.
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Oh man, just eliminating the flare alone probably saved you.
I have used this to put beads in aluminum tubing for my "intercooler" tubes, wonder if it would fit into that copper tube to do the same thing:
I have used this to put beads in aluminum tubing for my "intercooler" tubes, wonder if it would fit into that copper tube to do the same thing:
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- Apr 4, 2006
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Ha, I follow that guy on youtube... he actually has some really great tips.
That tool looks right up Mike's alley.
- Thread starter
- #2,387
I've done one from vice grips myself. I've found that these style of hump makers work good on softer materials (like aluminum as stated in the video). I have stainless and some exhaust tubing stuff that I'm using in my intake track and these hump makers don't do so well. They don't make a nice looking hump but something that seems to be functional. I've got a hump now on my first connection out of my little turbo. I kept popping boots so I needed something and so far the less than aesthetic hump I got on there from my vice grip style hump maker has helped keep the connection from slipping so it seems to be working so far. If you need to show off the hump, I'd say a roller design does much better.
tack stainless welding wire around the circumference
no, make a wire ring then tack that ring to the tube - on stainless tube, you can use flux core wire. That said, it doesn't HAVE to be a ring, and you could simply put some weld-nubs around the tube the slide your silicone hose over and clamp. Also you could go old school and simply run self-tapping screws in (I've done this - right through the stainless hose clamp) - ugly but it works
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sigh, if it matters to people, it'll never be in 4wheeler magazine.... I read this article and was thinking "but but but there are lots of diesel powered 60s that are awesome" I like the LS, but seriously this is almost a joke
1985 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60- A Classic Cruiser With Modern Power
1985 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60- A Classic Cruiser With Modern Power
- Thread starter
- #2,392
I had one rear shock that let go. I've been waiting for these to die so I could get better ones. I upgraded to Bilsteins 7100s non-reservoir. They are the heaviest standard valving option at 360/80 and are 12" travel. I cut out the previous crossmember I made a couple years ago and built a new one to try and get a little better placement. These upper mount tabs were the first version and didn't end up working so I pulled the new crossmember back out and changed the upper mounts.
I used the simple welded bolt design for the final upper mounts and was able to get a little more room in the floor pocket on the FJ60 to get them higher and give me more room to slide the shock on the bolt. I placed two bolts per side to give me some adjustability to get the shock angle I wanted.
I changed up the lower mounts as well to give me more adjustability and to add further rigidity to my axle tube where I spliced it back together. I ran a section of 1/2" bar about 2 1/2" wide and a several inches long and then welded the mounts to that.
Driver side.
Passenger side
The previous shocks were way too soft and I knew it. These helped improve the ride and the handling and added some more confidence in the rear end for a non sway bar spring over rig. Good results.
I used the simple welded bolt design for the final upper mounts and was able to get a little more room in the floor pocket on the FJ60 to get them higher and give me more room to slide the shock on the bolt. I placed two bolts per side to give me some adjustability to get the shock angle I wanted.
I changed up the lower mounts as well to give me more adjustability and to add further rigidity to my axle tube where I spliced it back together. I ran a section of 1/2" bar about 2 1/2" wide and a several inches long and then welded the mounts to that.
Driver side.
Passenger side
The previous shocks were way too soft and I knew it. These helped improve the ride and the handling and added some more confidence in the rear end for a non sway bar spring over rig. Good results.
Nice work Mike! I like how the lower mount is adjustable.
Is that all you have until you hit your bumpstops? I'd imagine you could get a few more inches out of it.
Is that all you have until you hit your bumpstops? I'd imagine you could get a few more inches out of it.
- Thread starter
- #2,394
Yup, just 3 inches until bump stop. I was trying to keep the mount from sticking down below the axle tube to keep it safer in the rocks. So far it's been ok. Bump stops are set to keep the tires out of the fenders so I wouldn't want to get more uptravel. Part of my compromise to try and keep it lower.
This is great Johnny, and thanks Mike for bringing it up again.
Driving to the shop two days after reading this I lost a boost hose. Limped to the shop, yanked out the offending exhaust adapter and got to crimping.
Worked just fine with exhaust tubing, and I did not cut up my tool, just used it like it is.
- Thread starter
- #2,397
I bought this inverter several years ago at a great price and ran it under the rear seat for a time. I always wanted to move it to the back in a fixed spot so with my redesigned drawer setup in the rear I finally got it mounted up. This is on the passenger side. This is also the side I choose to store the fridge. My logic is that because I have my rear tire swing out on the driver side and I cannot see out that side from the rear view mirror anyways I could pack that side up to the roof if needed. I didn't want to pack anything on top of the fridge so this keeps my passenger side open with the potential to see out the rear. Since the fridge was going to be on that side I set up my power center on that side too. I don't plan to store anything in this quarter panel since this is the side the fuel fill is on.
Because some of these gauges have lights or illuminate I put this whole strip on a switch to turn it off and not drain my Aux battery. I'm running a voltage gauge, a USB supply, and a standard 12V for the fridge. I put that all on a fuse block and have three more spots available for future expansion.
I ran some welding wire cable (I think it was 00) to give me plenty of juice for the big inverter. I have a this main power line fused under the hood by the AUX battery.
And so far I haven't used it yet. But I haven't really done much camping or wheeling since I set this up so it's there for when I will use it.
Because some of these gauges have lights or illuminate I put this whole strip on a switch to turn it off and not drain my Aux battery. I'm running a voltage gauge, a USB supply, and a standard 12V for the fridge. I put that all on a fuse block and have three more spots available for future expansion.
I ran some welding wire cable (I think it was 00) to give me plenty of juice for the big inverter. I have a this main power line fused under the hood by the AUX battery.
And so far I haven't used it yet. But I haven't really done much camping or wheeling since I set this up so it's there for when I will use it.
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A10Driver
SILVER Star
Frog's FJ159, just started it a couple of months ago
like the connection/voltage display
- Thread starter
- #2,400
Thanks SuperBuick.
Needed to get out but I couldn't make my club's annual Christmas tree run so I grabbed another buddy and went up a week early to grab our tree. On the way we came up on a downed tree.
Neither of us brought a powered saw and it was too thick to want to hand saw. We did have another rig pull up behind that had a chainsaw but it was beyond dull and just wasn't cutting it. There was a root ball that was in the way of going under it on the right side and we decided if we could clear that out we'd be able to go underneath on the right side. I grabbed the winch gear and we moved it out of the way to open up a path.
Slipped underneath with plenty of room and got to our destination. Let the kids run around with strict rules to stay on the front side of the trucks while we practiced a little shooting.
Ate some lunch and then selected our tree (permit required) before we headed home. It was nice to get out again. Of course the following week this same spot had plenty of snow. All it took was one cold enough storm to come through.
Needed to get out but I couldn't make my club's annual Christmas tree run so I grabbed another buddy and went up a week early to grab our tree. On the way we came up on a downed tree.
Neither of us brought a powered saw and it was too thick to want to hand saw. We did have another rig pull up behind that had a chainsaw but it was beyond dull and just wasn't cutting it. There was a root ball that was in the way of going under it on the right side and we decided if we could clear that out we'd be able to go underneath on the right side. I grabbed the winch gear and we moved it out of the way to open up a path.
Slipped underneath with plenty of room and got to our destination. Let the kids run around with strict rules to stay on the front side of the trucks while we practiced a little shooting.
Ate some lunch and then selected our tree (permit required) before we headed home. It was nice to get out again. Of course the following week this same spot had plenty of snow. All it took was one cold enough storm to come through.
