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- Thread starter
- #2,202
I found it on ebay searching for cummins freeze plug.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
If I read it correct you expect to run your 4BT over 205F ..?
- Thread starter
- #2,204
When towing or pushing hard on an incline 205F is not a concern for me, in fact I usually don't start to worry until I'm over 220F on the mechanical gauge. I believe other and newer diesels run at a warmer temperature than 190F to help improve efficiency.
On really hot days in summer with the AC running and loaded down, I can hit between 210 and 220 F. The engine can take it.
EDIT: I had 4.11 gears in at the time trying to keep up with highway speeds. It's probably not gonna be as big an issue with the 3.73 gears.
EDIT: I had 4.11 gears in at the time trying to keep up with highway speeds. It's probably not gonna be as big an issue with the 3.73 gears.
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Very interesting .. 190°F and I'm start looking at it ( my gauge ) every 2 seconds .. 200°F and you will see me pushing all sort of switches controlling all sort of fans .. sure complete different engines.
- Thread starter
- #2,207
Found the limit of my front seal on my injection pump today.
On the way home from work I was accelerating and was up to 48 psi when all of the sudden the boost dropped down to 20 psi without changing my position on the throttle. At first I thought I blew a boot somewhere on the intake but I didn't have a belching black cloud behind me like I've seen in the past when I've popped a boot. I tested the throttle again and it built boost like normal into the 40s. It acted normal the rest of the trip home and I tested it one more time with a throttle stomp down my street. Same thing happened, building boost into the 40s and then drops down to 20 psi. Pulled in with no temperature issues, checked all the intake while EGTs were cooling down and found no problems. Checked the dipstick and it looked higher than normal. Turned it off and let it cool down for an hour and then checked the dipstick again. Sure enough the level is too high. I also notice that my fuel gauge looked like I used more fuel than normal for a commute home. The oil is not as black as it usually is so I'm pretty sure I'm getting diesel into my crankcase probably through the front seal on my injector pump. Looks like I'll be modifying it to hold a new seal better and doing an oil change. It's probably leaking because I have a little too much fuel pressure from that new fuel pump. Staking the front seal on the VE pump is a known fix to allow the pump to hold more fuel pressure and that's what I'll be working on this weekend. With the oil change I think I'll drop the oil pan and replace the pan gasket as well as check on the thrust bearing to see how it's holding up. Guess she's not quite done getting attention.
On the way home from work I was accelerating and was up to 48 psi when all of the sudden the boost dropped down to 20 psi without changing my position on the throttle. At first I thought I blew a boot somewhere on the intake but I didn't have a belching black cloud behind me like I've seen in the past when I've popped a boot. I tested the throttle again and it built boost like normal into the 40s. It acted normal the rest of the trip home and I tested it one more time with a throttle stomp down my street. Same thing happened, building boost into the 40s and then drops down to 20 psi. Pulled in with no temperature issues, checked all the intake while EGTs were cooling down and found no problems. Checked the dipstick and it looked higher than normal. Turned it off and let it cool down for an hour and then checked the dipstick again. Sure enough the level is too high. I also notice that my fuel gauge looked like I used more fuel than normal for a commute home. The oil is not as black as it usually is so I'm pretty sure I'm getting diesel into my crankcase probably through the front seal on my injector pump. Looks like I'll be modifying it to hold a new seal better and doing an oil change. It's probably leaking because I have a little too much fuel pressure from that new fuel pump. Staking the front seal on the VE pump is a known fix to allow the pump to hold more fuel pressure and that's what I'll be working on this weekend. With the oil change I think I'll drop the oil pan and replace the pan gasket as well as check on the thrust bearing to see how it's holding up. Guess she's not quite done getting attention.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
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- 162
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- 4,044
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- Hillsboro, OR
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Doh! That is a ton of pressure. I'm sure that thing pulls like freight train.
That's a bummer.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
- Thread starter
- #2,210
I have not hooked up my fuel pressure gauge yet. Might as well throw that into the weekend list too. With the IP removed for seal replacement I'll have plenty of room to play. I've even thought about putting some sound deadener on the tappet cover on the driver side of the block. We'll see how motivated I am in this monsoon we're suppose to be getting starting today.
So far installing a front shaft seal lathered with red Loctite seems to hold over 20+psi in fuel pressure for the VE pumps. Some are reporting up to 30psi. Now I just need to contact a diesel parts house and see if they have my seal.
So far installing a front shaft seal lathered with red Loctite seems to hold over 20+psi in fuel pressure for the VE pumps. Some are reporting up to 30psi. Now I just need to contact a diesel parts house and see if they have my seal.
- Thread starter
- #2,211
Found a VE reseal kit locally for $18. It's a Bosch DGK-121 and I'll pick it up after work and start on the IP removal. I'm only planning on replacing the front seal at this time but I'll have the rest of the kit for the future.
For info sake VE injection pump reseal kits:
DGK - 126 is the 4-cylinder version but is more expensive
DGK - 121 is the 6-cylinder version, has the same parts, but is less expensive.
For info sake VE injection pump reseal kits:
DGK - 126 is the 4-cylinder version but is more expensive
DGK - 121 is the 6-cylinder version, has the same parts, but is less expensive.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
I enjoy this mayhem!
Back to t stats... I've wondered about that wiggle pin. On a horizontal mounted t stat, it also acts like a one way valve, from what I've seen, mine will let coolant flow past t stat, not back.
I've read that people add a hole or two to get the t stat to open 'earlier', by letting it heat more up from both sides... I dunno.
The feeler is on the hot side, but maybe it's getting more flow past it.
My 12HT is not heating up as fast as I'd wish, and runs way cool when in cold weather, running new cold spec thermostat.
Once it opens up, it does not seem to close hence when idling the engine is just getting colder.
Back to t stats... I've wondered about that wiggle pin. On a horizontal mounted t stat, it also acts like a one way valve, from what I've seen, mine will let coolant flow past t stat, not back.
I've read that people add a hole or two to get the t stat to open 'earlier', by letting it heat more up from both sides... I dunno.
The feeler is on the hot side, but maybe it's getting more flow past it.
My 12HT is not heating up as fast as I'd wish, and runs way cool when in cold weather, running new cold spec thermostat.
Once it opens up, it does not seem to close hence when idling the engine is just getting colder.
@TLC Norway, Diesels don't generate much heat if you are not pushing them.
Mine behaves in a similar manner.
Have you blocked off any of your radiator for the cold months?
I have a sheet of cardboard stuffed between my radiator and AC condenser, covering 2/3s of the rad's surface area. Helps keep some heat in the cab.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
The 2H never got cold when idling. Neither the 2lt or the Volvo td. The 12ht does, so I thought the t stat wasn't closing.
It does not ever get to operating temps, only at 45 minutes into the drive, then I see the t stat opens and the gauge drops 4mm fast.
Good in warm weather, not comfy in winter.
I do have the radiator 90 % blocked with cardboard, and using a hose water heater.
I guess it won't affect anything with another bypass hole on the t stat.
- Thread starter
- #2,215
Last week I found a Bosch VE injection pump reseal kit locally and picked it up after work. I grabbed the DGK-121 kit.
It did not have the pump to timing case seal with it so I ended up reusing my old one as it still looked to be in ok shape. The main part I wanted out of the kit was the front seal. I prepped to pull the IP off by finding TDC with the timing pin. I then used the front access hole to loosen up the drive gear. This was great because I didn't really want to remove the timing cover and everything else to get to it.
After loosening the gear nut I rechecked TDC and then locked the IP with the side bolt on the IP. I used a gear puller and carefully popped the gear free. There is a key on the shaft and I didn't want to have it drop down in the case. With all the bolts and lines detached I carefully removed the IP being mindful of the shaft key. The old seal wasn't popped out but it was old and hard and probably not sealing so well with added fuel pressure.
I sacrificed a flat blade screwdriver to make this seal popper copied from a thread I found online. Worked pretty good.
I had read about different sized seals and was a little worried but this kit had the right size: 20mm shaft.
Others reported the red thread locker holding up to increased fuel pressure so I decided to do that instead of staking or drilling and taping for screws to hold the seal in. I picked up new red high strength thread locker and coated the outside of the seal.
Used a 7/8" deep socket to drive it in.
Cleaned it off after it seated and then let it sit overnight to cure.
I turned my attention to other fixes while the pump was sitting. I had one of these studs that hold the IP to the timing case break a while ago and I replaced it with a bolt. That bolt broke on me too and I had to extract it from the case. I picked up new studs to replace the factory ones. The old studs have a smaller neck on them while the new ones don't have that transition. I think the news ones are stronger so I replaced all three. In the pic you can kind of see that one of the old studs was a little bent.
Old stud on left, new ones on the right.
New studs installed with red thread locker.
I still have a couple sheets of the sound dampener so I cleaned up the side cover and stuck it on. Not sure if it made a real difference but maybe it knocked it down a little. I know the new 6bts have this cover insulated so I figured it wouldn't hurt to try something.
Focused next on an oil change. Drained it and dropped the pan to check on the lower end. I wanted to replace the pan gasket as I was getting a minor leak and I wanted to check on the #4 thrust bearing. The bearing's shoulders were intact and in good shape so I cleaned up the mating surfaces. The oil didn't look thinned out at all so I must not have gotten too much fuel in there. Along that same train of thought since I pulled the oil pan to check on the lower end I figured why not and slapped on some more sound deadener after I cleaned it up. Don't really know if it will stay or do much but figured I'd try it out.
Once I got that out of my system I changed out the oil filter and put the pan back on. I'd forgotten that I used a Donaldson oil filter P558615. I replaced it with a Wix 51602. You can see how the Donaldson is a little bigger. I think I'll switch back to the Donaldson next oil change.
After that I dumped oil down the filler. I use Valvoline's Premium Blue Diesel stuff approved by cummins.
This one only took me 8 years to do. I finally upgraded my front headlights. I think the Cibie's have better optics but the Hella's are cheaper (about half the price), easier to find, and reported to be a little more durable. Either would be a dramatic upgrade from the wagner sealed units that have taken forever to die (one finally did which is why I finally upgraded).
These are the E code versions. Lighting pics are always so subjective but I did find a couple where it was the same vehicle, same bulb, same night/background and just the housings were changed between the DOT and the E code versions. The E code versions had a better pattern in my opinion so that's why I choose them.
I grabbed these from Jegs. It had a standard 60/55W H4 bulb included. #2395991 is for the E code versions.
The next day I finished putting the IP back on the engine. The bottom nut that is accessed under the pump was hard to get started. My
had to come save the day as her hands are smaller and were able to fit better in the small space to get that nut started. It took me 1/2 hour of fiddling with no success and her 2 minutes for the win. While the IP was off I reshaped my homemade wrench to tighten that lower nut. It works much better now.
I was mindful again of the key that goes on the shaft for the gear drive when putting the IP back in and once everything was all back together I bled the injectors and got it started. Took it for a drive and had an electrical puff of smoke from under the hood and into the cab. Got it home immediately and shut it off. My night wasn't quite over.
It did not have the pump to timing case seal with it so I ended up reusing my old one as it still looked to be in ok shape. The main part I wanted out of the kit was the front seal. I prepped to pull the IP off by finding TDC with the timing pin. I then used the front access hole to loosen up the drive gear. This was great because I didn't really want to remove the timing cover and everything else to get to it.
After loosening the gear nut I rechecked TDC and then locked the IP with the side bolt on the IP. I used a gear puller and carefully popped the gear free. There is a key on the shaft and I didn't want to have it drop down in the case. With all the bolts and lines detached I carefully removed the IP being mindful of the shaft key. The old seal wasn't popped out but it was old and hard and probably not sealing so well with added fuel pressure.
I sacrificed a flat blade screwdriver to make this seal popper copied from a thread I found online. Worked pretty good.
I had read about different sized seals and was a little worried but this kit had the right size: 20mm shaft.
Others reported the red thread locker holding up to increased fuel pressure so I decided to do that instead of staking or drilling and taping for screws to hold the seal in. I picked up new red high strength thread locker and coated the outside of the seal.
Used a 7/8" deep socket to drive it in.
Cleaned it off after it seated and then let it sit overnight to cure.
I turned my attention to other fixes while the pump was sitting. I had one of these studs that hold the IP to the timing case break a while ago and I replaced it with a bolt. That bolt broke on me too and I had to extract it from the case. I picked up new studs to replace the factory ones. The old studs have a smaller neck on them while the new ones don't have that transition. I think the news ones are stronger so I replaced all three. In the pic you can kind of see that one of the old studs was a little bent.
Old stud on left, new ones on the right.
New studs installed with red thread locker.
I still have a couple sheets of the sound dampener so I cleaned up the side cover and stuck it on. Not sure if it made a real difference but maybe it knocked it down a little. I know the new 6bts have this cover insulated so I figured it wouldn't hurt to try something.
Focused next on an oil change. Drained it and dropped the pan to check on the lower end. I wanted to replace the pan gasket as I was getting a minor leak and I wanted to check on the #4 thrust bearing. The bearing's shoulders were intact and in good shape so I cleaned up the mating surfaces. The oil didn't look thinned out at all so I must not have gotten too much fuel in there. Along that same train of thought since I pulled the oil pan to check on the lower end I figured why not and slapped on some more sound deadener after I cleaned it up. Don't really know if it will stay or do much but figured I'd try it out.
Once I got that out of my system I changed out the oil filter and put the pan back on. I'd forgotten that I used a Donaldson oil filter P558615. I replaced it with a Wix 51602. You can see how the Donaldson is a little bigger. I think I'll switch back to the Donaldson next oil change.
After that I dumped oil down the filler. I use Valvoline's Premium Blue Diesel stuff approved by cummins.
This one only took me 8 years to do. I finally upgraded my front headlights. I think the Cibie's have better optics but the Hella's are cheaper (about half the price), easier to find, and reported to be a little more durable. Either would be a dramatic upgrade from the wagner sealed units that have taken forever to die (one finally did which is why I finally upgraded).
These are the E code versions. Lighting pics are always so subjective but I did find a couple where it was the same vehicle, same bulb, same night/background and just the housings were changed between the DOT and the E code versions. The E code versions had a better pattern in my opinion so that's why I choose them.
I grabbed these from Jegs. It had a standard 60/55W H4 bulb included. #2395991 is for the E code versions.
The next day I finished putting the IP back on the engine. The bottom nut that is accessed under the pump was hard to get started. My
had to come save the day as her hands are smaller and were able to fit better in the small space to get that nut started. It took me 1/2 hour of fiddling with no success and her 2 minutes for the win. While the IP was off I reshaped my homemade wrench to tighten that lower nut. It works much better now.
I was mindful again of the key that goes on the shaft for the gear drive when putting the IP back in and once everything was all back together I bled the injectors and got it started. Took it for a drive and had an electrical puff of smoke from under the hood and into the cab. Got it home immediately and shut it off. My night wasn't quite over.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #2,216
Once I shut off the engine I jumped out and started the hunt. I pulled the ground off the battery to stop any short that was going on and after crawling all around looking and sniffing I found this wire not like the others.
It was a power wire to my inverter in the back seat that was not hooked up. It must have worn against the body where I had it routed and started a short party. It was the only wire on my power block that did not have a fuse (actually my winch wasn't fused either). Interestingly no fuses anywhere popped. This is my aux battery power bar that the fried wire was hooked to.
With the offending wire removed I looked at the electrical path it was a part of. I did have some collateral damage. The aux battery must have taken the brunt of it and it is fried; I had it tested. I have bypassed it in this pic for system testing.
I pulled out my isolator and inspected it. The internal fuse is still good and there were no hot marks on the internal logic board. I put 12V to the solenoid and tested the posts for connection which were good. It seems to be working correctly. I'll know for sure once I get the Aux battery replaced. I also pulled the alternator and had it tested, it too was good.
Through testing I found that something internal in the winch fried and was connecting the Positive and Negative cables. Before I figured that out that made it fun trying to hook up the power wire to the battery. I can do without the winch for a while so I'll dig into that later. For now I've disconnected it from the system.
This one caused some head scratching for a couple of days. My pyrometer was reading incorrectly. After voltage testing, power bypassing, and searching I finally narrowed it down to the thermocouple probe shorting out. This is a gauge I don't want to live without so I'll be ordering a new probe kit to replace it.
All other systems are working fine and the truck is drivable ........ except that my rear freeze plug is now leaking coolant.
I will have to pull the engine to be able to remove the adapter that is covering it in order to replace that plug. Because of that adapter it looks like I'll have to use a regular plug but I'll be adding some JBweld to the mix to keep it from coming out. So the truck is on light duty until then. I think I'll set up a work party to see if I can get a couple of local guys to help me pull and replace the engine in the same day.
It was a power wire to my inverter in the back seat that was not hooked up. It must have worn against the body where I had it routed and started a short party. It was the only wire on my power block that did not have a fuse (actually my winch wasn't fused either). Interestingly no fuses anywhere popped. This is my aux battery power bar that the fried wire was hooked to.
With the offending wire removed I looked at the electrical path it was a part of. I did have some collateral damage. The aux battery must have taken the brunt of it and it is fried; I had it tested. I have bypassed it in this pic for system testing.
I pulled out my isolator and inspected it. The internal fuse is still good and there were no hot marks on the internal logic board. I put 12V to the solenoid and tested the posts for connection which were good. It seems to be working correctly. I'll know for sure once I get the Aux battery replaced. I also pulled the alternator and had it tested, it too was good.
Through testing I found that something internal in the winch fried and was connecting the Positive and Negative cables. Before I figured that out that made it fun trying to hook up the power wire to the battery. I can do without the winch for a while so I'll dig into that later. For now I've disconnected it from the system.
This one caused some head scratching for a couple of days. My pyrometer was reading incorrectly. After voltage testing, power bypassing, and searching I finally narrowed it down to the thermocouple probe shorting out. This is a gauge I don't want to live without so I'll be ordering a new probe kit to replace it.
All other systems are working fine and the truck is drivable ........ except that my rear freeze plug is now leaking coolant.
I will have to pull the engine to be able to remove the adapter that is covering it in order to replace that plug. Because of that adapter it looks like I'll have to use a regular plug but I'll be adding some JBweld to the mix to keep it from coming out. So the truck is on light duty until then. I think I'll set up a work party to see if I can get a couple of local guys to help me pull and replace the engine in the same day.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
Dang!!! Poor Dora! Let me know when the work party is going to happen and I'll try to slice some time out to help.
Holy crap man, you really can't win.
Maybe you can machine a plug that fits into the rear freeze plug space that's held in with the adapter, to keep the plug from popping out?
Maybe you can machine a plug that fits into the rear freeze plug space that's held in with the adapter, to keep the plug from popping out?