Always seems there is more that can be blasted........ also looking forward to a day of nothing left to blast and paint as well.
Enjoying watching your progress, nice work!
Family FJ Build : '76 40 Resto/Frame Off (a.k.a. the Japanese Baby Buggy) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter zerotreedelta
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Enjoying watching your progress, nice work!
allworknoplay
SILVER Star
As a former Wisconsinite I can surely appreciate the amount of work you are putting into your rig. You are doing a great job!
- Thread starter
- #23
Day 137
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Took a break from bodywork to get the transmission all cleaned up...hoping the engine block will be back from the machinist next week. She was just a smidge dirty before...this is mildly better. Lots of scraping and degreasing, then a light soda blast followed by paint. The smaller bits got tossed in the blasting cabinet and either painted or re-plated.
It's a shame to put it back underneath, need a clear transmission tunnel cover.
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Took a break from bodywork to get the transmission all cleaned up...hoping the engine block will be back from the machinist next week. She was just a smidge dirty before...this is mildly better. Lots of scraping and degreasing, then a light soda blast followed by paint. The smaller bits got tossed in the blasting cabinet and either painted or re-plated.
It's a shame to put it back underneath, need a clear transmission tunnel cover.
- Thread starter
- #24
Had a little fun to take a break from panel fitment....FJ40, Rubicon Edition.
(Picked up some no-mileage takeoffs for cheap, less than tires alone - I'm using the 255 BFGs on the rims I have for the 40, and tossing the rims in the attic for my JK, as the current rims are taking a beating in the WI salt)
(Picked up some no-mileage takeoffs for cheap, less than tires alone - I'm using the 255 BFGs on the rims I have for the 40, and tossing the rims in the attic for my JK, as the current rims are taking a beating in the WI salt)
Tell us how to use the "guitar tuning app" .
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- #26
I've got an Android, the freebie I used is called gStrings, but there's quite a few free chromatic tuners out there for both Android and IOs. You'll want some earplugs, but you can then use the app to sound each horn individually, and it'll give you what the tone is in hZ to get it set back to after you pull it apart. Once they're close, you can do the last bit somewhat by ear, as they make a chord when fired together. It's been a while, so I don't know what each was tuned to anymore...the F# was just me humming for example.
You could also just record a sound clip of each one individually, too...then use that as a reference to tune it back in as well. Likely doesn't hurt to do both...belt and suspenders.
You could also just record a sound clip of each one individually, too...then use that as a reference to tune it back in as well. Likely doesn't hurt to do both...belt and suspenders.
Crap I have already taken them off. Is there a way to get them to sound off while not connected to my 40?I've got an Android, the freebie I used is called gStrings, but there's quite a few free chromatic tuners out there for both Android and IOs. You'll want some earplugs, but you can then use the app to sound each horn individually, and it'll give you what the tone is in hZ to get it set back to after you pull it apart. Once they're close, you can do the last bit somewhat by ear, as they make a chord when fired together. It's been a while, so I don't know what each was tuned to anymore...the F# was just me humming for example.
You could also just record a sound clip of each one individually, too...then use that as a reference to tune it back in as well. Likely doesn't hurt to do both...belt and suspenders.
View attachment 2625338
- Thread starter
- #28
Yeah, it's actually easier that way - you just need 12v (+) to the terminal on the back, and then ground the body. (Granted, it can also be the other way...polarity really doesn't matter in this case as it's just an electromagnet). Some years have two terminals vs one, and you can use the second terminal vs the body...TEQ got smart and avoided using a body-ground eventually.
You will need a good solid 12v power source with amperage...I just used a spare car battery. A small bench supply will struggle to run both at the same time, and they won't tune up right.
You will need a good solid 12v power source with amperage...I just used a spare car battery. A small bench supply will struggle to run both at the same time, and they won't tune up right.
- Thread starter
- #29
Test fit of the new shoes...seem to sit pretty well, I'll take it. I had to modify the hubcaps to make a new mounting flange, but managed to get them to sit nice and flush with the rim. Engine and trans are still out, so it'll squat a bit more than how it's sitting...the 2F is a bit portly.
Rims are 17x8's with 0 offset / 4" BS, running 255/75/17s. That size does seem like a nice balance between the 235/85 pizza cutters and a wider 33.
And yes, I still need to rebuild the front knuckles...next on the list after re-assembling the block.
Rims are 17x8's with 0 offset / 4" BS, running 255/75/17s. That size does seem like a nice balance between the 235/85 pizza cutters and a wider 33.
And yes, I still need to rebuild the front knuckles...next on the list after re-assembling the block.
- Thread starter
- #30
Was going to work on the rear doors, but puttered away at seeing how the front clip and doors align to get more confidence on the tub aliment...looking more like an FJ again.
I didn't quite wrap it up, more to go (needed dinner!) - but for some reason the passenger side replacement fender seems pretty far off on the inner fender and bracket that goes to the frame. I ended up having to c-clamp it in place as the bolt holes in the frame were about 1" forward of where the fender needs to be. Firewall is straight on the rails where it mounts, and the tub looks to be sitting square on the frame as well, both across the rear bumper and with a straightedge up the rear tires. The drivers side ended up pretty close, although it'll also need some (minor) trimming and adjustment of some of the bolt holes it seems.
I'm guessing it's just the nature of the aftermarket fenders - these are the Taiwan flavor via CCOT (ordered pre-tub debacle). There's a bit of shifting around left to do, but overall the hood seems straight, and the bib lines up, so it does seem like the fender mounting bracket and inner fender is just...off...on the passenger side fender. (You can see that the gap is different around the shock, as well as the mount to the frame).
Anyone run into that?
I didn't quite wrap it up, more to go (needed dinner!) - but for some reason the passenger side replacement fender seems pretty far off on the inner fender and bracket that goes to the frame. I ended up having to c-clamp it in place as the bolt holes in the frame were about 1" forward of where the fender needs to be. Firewall is straight on the rails where it mounts, and the tub looks to be sitting square on the frame as well, both across the rear bumper and with a straightedge up the rear tires. The drivers side ended up pretty close, although it'll also need some (minor) trimming and adjustment of some of the bolt holes it seems.
I'm guessing it's just the nature of the aftermarket fenders - these are the Taiwan flavor via CCOT (ordered pre-tub debacle). There's a bit of shifting around left to do, but overall the hood seems straight, and the bib lines up, so it does seem like the fender mounting bracket and inner fender is just...off...on the passenger side fender. (You can see that the gap is different around the shock, as well as the mount to the frame).
Anyone run into that?
- Thread starter
- #31
Dug a bit more on the fenders today - it does look like the inner fender for the passenger side was just spotwelded in pretty willy nilly. The top apron doesn't sit as well on the pax fender either, so it seems like the outer fender just needed a little tweak before welding, but they just sent it instead. Now to decide whether to just adjust the bracing, or to pop out the full inner fender and fix the error that way.
If you look at the drivers side, it's fits fairly well, and the inner fender "reveal" is fairly consistent front to back:
On the passenger side, it's pushed all the way rearward and upward, and the brace is also shifted rearward as well (not centered between the dimples). Guessing between the two, that explains the offset at the frame rail. At least gives me some confidence that the tub/firewall/drivers side is correct, and this fender is just FUBAR from the factory.
If you look at the drivers side, it's fits fairly well, and the inner fender "reveal" is fairly consistent front to back:
On the passenger side, it's pushed all the way rearward and upward, and the brace is also shifted rearward as well (not centered between the dimples). Guessing between the two, that explains the offset at the frame rail. At least gives me some confidence that the tub/firewall/drivers side is correct, and this fender is just FUBAR from the factory.
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- #32
I do have some nice plated hardware for the engine bay at least - did get something productive done today:
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- #33
Feeling pretty good on the front clip, chipping away...kind of fun to record progress a bit on video. I'm pretty sure there's VHS footage somewhere of the first rebuild, but I haven't found it just yet.
Block is back, .020 did the deed...and it needed to, pretty sure I nabbed one of the last sets of oversize dome-top pistons around. I was checking around before the block went in to know what options we had, and ran across one set of .020/0.5mm. I ordered 'em just in case (they didn't have any .030s). Glad I did...I haven't found another set since.
Block is back, .020 did the deed...and it needed to, pretty sure I nabbed one of the last sets of oversize dome-top pistons around. I was checking around before the block went in to know what options we had, and ran across one set of .020/0.5mm. I ordered 'em just in case (they didn't have any .030s). Glad I did...I haven't found another set since.
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- #34
Chipping away at the hardtop...rear corners need love. All the glass is out with no casualties, and have a decent start on remaking the inner flanges with the shrinker/stretcher.
- Thread starter
- #35
Still chipping away on the bodywork, painting weather is almost here...looking forward to that (in a strange way). Hardtop is getting there, definitely the fiddliest work to fix with those rear corners and flanges being bad, on top of the radius of everything. Fighting the rear door gaps a bit - the rear opening is square, but the door gaps tend to be a bit quirky, especially on the left...but that might just be the nature of the beast, especially since the left and right doors are off two different parts rigs. It **looks** like the hardtop sides are both pushed out maybe 1/8" at the top, but that crossbar doesn't allow them to come in. I might try making a mockup crossbar to see what it does with it shortened a smidge as I need to redo the bar ends anyway due to rust.
In the meantime, crunched through the footage from welding up the tub as well - video runs a few weeks behind of actual progress:
In the meantime, crunched through the footage from welding up the tub as well - video runs a few weeks behind of actual progress:
- Thread starter
- #36
Metalwork continues...hardtop sides/rears are all done, on to the the windshield and then I'll tackle the rear doors. Getting there, slowly running out of rust holes in the bodywork.
Managed to straighten the aftermarket door as well - had to make a bolt-on press out of some old unistrut. Once the spot welds were drilled out, you could work the banana-shape out of the door, which was good...if not, it was going to need return freight. Fixed a few of the other quirks as well (limiter strap bracket, handle dimples), so perhaps there's some use for anyone else that runs into it with these doors:
Managed to straighten the aftermarket door as well - had to make a bolt-on press out of some old unistrut. Once the spot welds were drilled out, you could work the banana-shape out of the door, which was good...if not, it was going to need return freight. Fixed a few of the other quirks as well (limiter strap bracket, handle dimples), so perhaps there's some use for anyone else that runs into it with these doors:
greenbeasty
SILVER Star
The picture in Post #9 of the rear frame. is that stock lights, or have you made buckets for the lights?
Great thread by the way, gonna find time to watch all the vids. Thanks for taking time to share.
Great thread by the way, gonna find time to watch all the vids. Thanks for taking time to share.
- Thread starter
- #38
They're just some replacement OEM-style buckets with the extra plastic guards added on the backside to help protect the wiring a bit. (And a full set of LEDs from the LED thread)
I really wish BFGoodrich still made these tires (full range of sizes). It was my ‘go to’ tire. I have a set of five 305/70r16 I’m running right now, but once they’re gone.... they’re gone.
Great work on the rebuild. Looking good!
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- #40
Wasn't sure how I was going to repair the windshield - I don't have anything that would let me break that small 45* lip in the windshield face.
...but it did look strangely familiar after working on those rear hardtop panels. Go figure, the break in the rear door is the same angle/step as the windshield. Given my rear doors were past reasonable repair, one ended up donating some tin to repair the windshield...the circle of life.
It'll still need a whiff of leveling putty to get the sightline down that lip just right, I got a slight wave it in it...but all in all, I think it'll be workable.
...but it did look strangely familiar after working on those rear hardtop panels. Go figure, the break in the rear door is the same angle/step as the windshield. Given my rear doors were past reasonable repair, one ended up donating some tin to repair the windshield...the circle of life.
It'll still need a whiff of leveling putty to get the sightline down that lip just right, I got a slight wave it in it...but all in all, I think it'll be workable.
