Builds "Falcor" the 1984 FJ60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 77CruiserDog
- Start date
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4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Wish I had done mine when it looked like yours! Slow few drips after running and that is it.
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #123
Working on the water pump installation today. Taking it slow, it's not as easy as an FJ40. The AC and the big ass front bumper is making it awkward and slow.
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #124
Lower hose was pretty soft and swollen, glad I ordered a new one.
Cut the fan shroud in half, this is a must do for anyone working on an FJ60...
I'm pretty sure this was the original water pump. I opted not to open the new water pump and use RTV on both sides of the gasket. The new ones now have the rubber seal along the gasket, I feel it's probably not necessary to open them and RTV the plate and gasket anymore.
The only thing I would have done differently is to replace all of the hose clamps while I was at it. At some point in the near future when I replace a few of the swollen hoses supplying coolant to the oil cooler I'll end up replacing all of the hose clamps.
Drove it for a few minutes after bringing it up to temp with the burp bucket installed and then parked it. I'll drive it some more tomorrow before giving it the seal of approval.
Cut the fan shroud in half, this is a must do for anyone working on an FJ60...
I'm pretty sure this was the original water pump. I opted not to open the new water pump and use RTV on both sides of the gasket. The new ones now have the rubber seal along the gasket, I feel it's probably not necessary to open them and RTV the plate and gasket anymore.
The only thing I would have done differently is to replace all of the hose clamps while I was at it. At some point in the near future when I replace a few of the swollen hoses supplying coolant to the oil cooler I'll end up replacing all of the hose clamps.
Drove it for a few minutes after bringing it up to temp with the burp bucket installed and then parked it. I'll drive it some more tomorrow before giving it the seal of approval.
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Good write up. Did you replace the hose to the oil cooler? That one tends to get ruined by oil leaks. If your clamps are holding they are doing their job.
I burped mine in my slightly inclined driveway by squeezing the hoses. But then I crawled a trail that tipped it both ways. Not everyone is so lucky, but it burped it quick.
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #126
Thanks, it was certainly not the easiest water pump to replace. Nope, I've not replaced those oil cooler hoses yet but I plan on it. I should also replace the o-rings (?) on the oil cooler. Yep, the burp bucket, a stupid steep driveway and squeezing that top hose seemed to do the trick really well. Crawling a trail sounds like a much more fun way to do it!
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #127
I drove Falcor roughly 80 miles today to adjust the timing and verify no coolant leaks.
Below is more to help me remember than anything else... but if someone gets something out of it or has something to add, great.
Started at 15 degrees advance which pinged at freeway speeds with light throttle around 2800 RPM on up but from idle to 2000 RPM felt great. Definite dead spot in power after 2000 RPM. Tried both vac advance ports, both were similar. The port furthest away from the cap might have pinged a little less but any pinging is not ideal.
Tried 10 degrees and it had very little power from idle to 2000 and didn't ping on the freeway with light throttle. Didn't matter which vac advance port I used. Not ideal.
Tried 11, better but not perfect. Tried 12 and then 13... Ended up at 12 degrees with the vac line attached to port closest to the distributor cap. No pinging that I can hear at any throttle amount, or any RPMs and still pulls like a tug boat off idle. However, there's still a spot after 2000 RPMs where it feels like it's lacking in power.
Here's what I know. Base timing is set by the twisting of the distributor. Vacuum advance has two ports, one closest to the distributor that gives more advance and one further from the cap that gives less advance and is used for high altitude assuming the HAC is hooked up. Mine isn't. The vac advance kicks in early just off idle until ???.
Then there is weights and springs that advance it even further at higher rpms once the weights overcome the pull of the springs. I believe it's this portion of the advance that is advancing too early and too much.... possibly just too early.
The only variable that exists in my distributor is that I used a vacuum cap with the end sliced off as my bushing on the governor pin. My original bushing was disintegrated as many have found on these rigs. It's so close to the 1/4" bushing size that I see people use that I can't imagine it affects much.
I'd love to send my distributor off to be recurved by Jim C. but I also know it takes a bit to get it back and the thought of not driving this thing for a number of weeks has me wanting to experiment on my own.
So I ordered some MSD springs (8464) and I'm going to experiment by trying heavier springs until I can no longer feel that dead spot above 2000 RPM which I believe that the centrifugal advance is kicking in too early due to the distributor being designed to work with EGR and the air pump both of which slow the burn and would require more advance once they're both in play.
After all of that, no coolant leaks but my fuel pump is now leaking... I reached out to CityRacer HA!
Here's a picture of something I found under the license plate when I first got Falcor
I assume this is the original license plate advertising slip from when the vehicle was purchased.
Below is more to help me remember than anything else... but if someone gets something out of it or has something to add, great.
Started at 15 degrees advance which pinged at freeway speeds with light throttle around 2800 RPM on up but from idle to 2000 RPM felt great. Definite dead spot in power after 2000 RPM. Tried both vac advance ports, both were similar. The port furthest away from the cap might have pinged a little less but any pinging is not ideal.
Tried 10 degrees and it had very little power from idle to 2000 and didn't ping on the freeway with light throttle. Didn't matter which vac advance port I used. Not ideal.
Tried 11, better but not perfect. Tried 12 and then 13... Ended up at 12 degrees with the vac line attached to port closest to the distributor cap. No pinging that I can hear at any throttle amount, or any RPMs and still pulls like a tug boat off idle. However, there's still a spot after 2000 RPMs where it feels like it's lacking in power.
Here's what I know. Base timing is set by the twisting of the distributor. Vacuum advance has two ports, one closest to the distributor that gives more advance and one further from the cap that gives less advance and is used for high altitude assuming the HAC is hooked up. Mine isn't. The vac advance kicks in early just off idle until ???.
Then there is weights and springs that advance it even further at higher rpms once the weights overcome the pull of the springs. I believe it's this portion of the advance that is advancing too early and too much.... possibly just too early.
The only variable that exists in my distributor is that I used a vacuum cap with the end sliced off as my bushing on the governor pin. My original bushing was disintegrated as many have found on these rigs. It's so close to the 1/4" bushing size that I see people use that I can't imagine it affects much.
I'd love to send my distributor off to be recurved by Jim C. but I also know it takes a bit to get it back and the thought of not driving this thing for a number of weeks has me wanting to experiment on my own.
So I ordered some MSD springs (8464) and I'm going to experiment by trying heavier springs until I can no longer feel that dead spot above 2000 RPM which I believe that the centrifugal advance is kicking in too early due to the distributor being designed to work with EGR and the air pump both of which slow the burn and would require more advance once they're both in play.
After all of that, no coolant leaks but my fuel pump is now leaking... I reached out to CityRacer HA!
Here's a picture of something I found under the license plate when I first got Falcor
I assume this is the original license plate advertising slip from when the vehicle was purchased.
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #129
Sniper is definitely on my list of "wants".... As is the DUI distributor. However I think a 5speed will happen first. My distributor base was broken at the hold down bolt when I got this rig, so far it seems to work fine still.... but at some point I may need to replace it. Unfortunately, I don't have a sun machine, ha! However, I do have a penchant for experimenting.
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #131
All good dude! I appreciate you reading over my build and providing useful insight. I have a little update you might like coming soon.I confused this build with another about the sniper.
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #132
New keys and locks all keyed alike sure would be nice. I did this in Scout and it was so great. New keys and lock cylinders for ignition, doors, gas tank and rear door lock.
Like this...
I looked and I can't find a kit like this for the 60 series. Am I missing something? Is the answer to just get new lock cylinders and then re-key them??
What's the best solution?
Like this...
Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ43 FJ45 BJ40 OEM Ignition Cylinder Lock w/ Keys SET | eBay
Toyota Land Cruiser 40 Series 1969-1986 (FJ40 FJ43 FJ45 BJ41 BJ42 BJ44 BJ46 HJ47). with Keys & with Steering Lock. OEM Genuine Ignition Cylinder Lock Set. GENUINE TOYOTA.
www.ebay.com
I looked and I can't find a kit like this for the 60 series. Am I missing something? Is the answer to just get new lock cylinders and then re-key them??
What's the best solution?
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #133
Received my fuel pump/spacer from Cruiser Outfitters yesterday. The one on the truck was spraying gas from what I believe to be a small relief valve below the diaphram.
Cleaned up the area before working on it.
Removed old pump and gasket.
Installed new and started this junk up, runs great
Cleaned up the area before working on it.
Removed old pump and gasket.
Installed new and started this junk up, runs great
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #134
Hey, just saw this... it appears to be dry now that it's all cleaned up. It probably would have been wise to do this when I was in there but the only leak this thing appears to have is from the rear main. I'll do that and the pan gasket when I toss in the 5spd in the Spring.
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #135
I did this today.... Builds - The Rushing Turdle - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-rushing-turdle.873488/post-10433676 - excellent write up dude! @roadstr6
I used the same springs as Dave did and so far so good. It's SUPER easy. I didn't remove the distributor, just did it while it was in the truck. Dave apparently got the friends and family deal on the MSD kit... I paid a whole $4 more than he did.
His instructions are better but if you're a visual person, see below.
Pulled cap and rotor.
Removed E clip and screw for vac advance and slid out the vac advance set this aside.
Removed two screws and small hold down tabs for advancer plate and lift up and set aside.
If your bushing is gone, replace it with aluminum spacer mentioned in the link above. I just used a small piece of vacuum line a few weeks ago, seems to be working well.
Removed springs and replace with a blue one and a silver one from the kit.
I put a few drops of light oil in the bearings in the advancer plate... mine was gummy, this immediately made it twist freely.
Reassembled, and reset base timing. I ended up where Dave did after a ton of driving.... 15 degrees and vac advance hose attached to the inner (more) vac advance port. I'll drive it this way for a while and see how it goes.
Overall this took about 30 min to do and 3 hours of driving and adjusting the timing to get it to the same damn place Dave ended up.
I used the same springs as Dave did and so far so good. It's SUPER easy. I didn't remove the distributor, just did it while it was in the truck. Dave apparently got the friends and family deal on the MSD kit... I paid a whole $4 more than he did.
His instructions are better but if you're a visual person, see below.
Pulled cap and rotor.
Removed E clip and screw for vac advance and slid out the vac advance set this aside.
Removed two screws and small hold down tabs for advancer plate and lift up and set aside.
If your bushing is gone, replace it with aluminum spacer mentioned in the link above. I just used a small piece of vacuum line a few weeks ago, seems to be working well.
Removed springs and replace with a blue one and a silver one from the kit.
I put a few drops of light oil in the bearings in the advancer plate... mine was gummy, this immediately made it twist freely.
Reassembled, and reset base timing. I ended up where Dave did after a ton of driving.... 15 degrees and vac advance hose attached to the inner (more) vac advance port. I'll drive it this way for a while and see how it goes.
Overall this took about 30 min to do and 3 hours of driving and adjusting the timing to get it to the same damn place Dave ended up.
It's a blessing that the timing cover isn't the issue. It's nice to achieve a dry 2F and it's possible for a while. As long as it doesn't bleed ounces then it's just rust prevention right?
. If you get a few spots on the driveway, you can both absorb and hide them with wood ash.
My $0.02
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #137
Also…. Such a fun place!!!
I agree 80%. We do have a pretty amazing backyard and pretty good coffee. But it's your campsite choice and what/who you bring that makes it cool. And picking the season for your activity. Now is a great time for wheeling/hiking, not so much in August.
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #139
Yep, fully agree. I like that you can just choose your own adventure there. Bike in the morning and go 4 wheeling in the afternoon after it cools down. The coffee is good and so is the beer. There are only a few places that I've been where have as much fun as in Moab. Whistler and Bend are two of those... I think you're in good company. I came to your backyard with a few friends 2 years ago and some of them didn't mountain bike, so we spent some time hiking, 4 wheeling and just exploring. So fun!
77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #140
Small road trip to confirm it all works
