Builds "Falcor" the 1984 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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OME add a leaves installed in the front. Fixed the nose down stance it had due to the winch in the front being as heavy as a small planet.

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For what it's worth... I compared the City Racer Japanese made carb to an inexpensive Amazon carb. The City Racer carb is miles better. I've spent the past few days driving it with both for comparison and just switched back to the City Racer carb.

The City Racer carb has a much smoother acceleration, the idle is more consistent and it has a better acceleration feel.

The Amazon carb would stumble, the idle was impossible to get correct. It will be returned today.
 
I've been struggling with what felt like a very weak engine. I tried a different carb from Amazon, that one got sent back today, it was no bueno compared to the City Racer carb. I found some improvement by placing a piece of a vacuum cap over the governor pin in the distributor to replicate the bushing that always disintegrates given enough time.

Today I played with timing. Base timing was 5 degrees. This turd couldn't get out of it's own way. I bumped it up to 9 degrees, way better, far more power on take off and no ping. 12 degrees, same thing, more power than with 9 degrees and no ping. Finished up at 15 degrees still no ping and plenty more power than with the original 5 degrees.

Here's my question.... why would I need 15 degrees of timing? Or, better question, what am I doing wrong?

I have a timing light that allows for advance. I start by removing the vac line to the distributor, plug it with a golf tee, make sure the idle is around 670 or so. I press the up arrow on my timing light to the desired amount and point it at the window. I loosen the distributor hold down bolt and twist the distributor until the line on the flywheel points at the timing arrow on the bell housing. This seems like the correct procedure to me. The BB is at 7 degrees and is not what I believe I'm supposed to be using as my timing mark. It's the line.... correct?
 
I've been struggling with what felt like a very weak engine. I tried a different carb from Amazon, that one got sent back today, it was no bueno compared to the City Racer carb. I found some improvement by placing a piece of a vacuum cap over the governor pin in the distributor to replicate the bushing that always disintegrates given enough time.

Today I played with timing. Base timing was 5 degrees. This turd couldn't get out of it's own way. I bumped it up to 9 degrees, way better, far more power on take off and no ping. 12 degrees, same thing, more power than with 9 degrees and no ping. Finished up at 15 degrees still no ping and plenty more power than with the original 5 degrees.

Here's my question.... why would I need 15 degrees of timing? Or, better question, what am I doing wrong?

I have a timing light that allows for advance. I start by removing the vac line to the distributor, plug it with a golf tee, make sure the idle is around 670 or so. I press the up arrow on my timing light to the desired amount and point it at the window. I loosen the distributor hold down bolt and twist the distributor until the line on the flywheel points at the timing arrow on the bell housing. This seems like the correct procedure to me. The BB is at 7 degrees and is not what I believe I'm supposed to be using as my timing mark. It's the line.... correct?
Sounds right to me. But I still use the BB. So light set at 3° it actually 10. Regardless of where you set your timing, make sure you don't have more than 32° total advance, that's with vacuum and centrifugal.
It's good you found some more power 😃👍
 
Sounds right to me. But I still use the BB. So light set at 3° it actually 10. Regardless of where you set your timing, make sure you don't have more than 32° total advance, that's with vacuum and centrifugal.
It's good you found some more power 😃👍

Yeah I'm stoked. It drives a lot better now. I'm probably going to continue to adjust it to the point where I hear some pinging and then back it off 3-4 degrees. I'd like to take it as it sits with the 15 degrees and drive it up Snoqualmie Pass again.... last weekend it was slow going. I think this time around it will be slightly less slow.
 
If my timing light is a fixed style, no advance option, my BB is dead on, I am at 7 degrees right? If I want to add more degrees the bb will be going to the left of the pointer or counterclockwise correct? My 60 runs great as it is, but is considerably slower with 4 people on board. Thinking of turning it up now!

should I get a finer timing light?
 
If my timing light is a fixed style, no advance option, my BB is dead on, I am at 7 degrees right? If I want to add more degrees the bb will be going to the left of the pointer or counterclockwise correct? My 60 runs great as it is, but is considerably slower with 4 people on board. Thinking of turning it up now!

should I get a finer timing light?
Awesome question...I love my timing light with advance, I think it was all of $70. I've used it about 20 times so far, it's a useful tool. So is a vacuum gauge. Advancing the timing should put the BB (or line) above the pointer if I'm not mistaken.
 
You gotta keep ****ing with it. Tuning comes easier to some but the the goal is a complete burn with the most power. The 2F sacrificed its efficiency for durability so they do best a little rich and the timing is a whole another issue after desmog. To figure out both is a trial but keep with it. Watch your gas mileage, read your plugs, make small changes. It's easy to get carried away. Don't give up.
 
Awesome question...I love my timing light with advance, I think it was all of $70. I've used it about 20 times so far, it's a useful tool. So is a vacuum gauge. Advancing the timing should put the BB (or line) above the pointer if I'm not mistaken.
Thanks, I just assumed since the BB was clockwise from TDC line (if tdc was 12:00, the BB was at 1:00 , not really) that was 7* from tdc? If you added degrees the bb would be headed in the counter clockwise direction? I can certainly hear it running worst when it is the other direction. Just trying to make sure I know which way to go? Thanks
 
Thanks, I just assumed since the BB was clockwise from TDC line (if tdc was 12:00, the BB was at 1:00 , not really) that was 7* from tdc? If you added degrees the bb would be headed in the counter clockwise direction? I can certainly hear it running worst when it is the other direction. Just trying to make sure I know which way to go? Thanks

Yep, I may be mistaken, your logic seems correct. I'm going to drive Falcor up Snoqualmie Pass today and then pretend I'm a hiker for a few hours. I'm guessing I have slightly too much timing in it right now, so I'll be making more adjustments tomorrow. I'll be able to tell you for sure after I make those adjustments.
 
You gotta keep f***ing with it. Tuning comes easier to some but the the goal is a complete burn with the most power. The 2F sacrificed its efficiency for durability so they do best a little rich and the timing is a whole another issue after desmog. To figure out both is a trial but keep with it. Watch your gas mileage, read your plugs, make small changes. It's easy to get carried away. Don't give up.
Yep, headed out to do a little of that now. I'm at 15 degrees which seems crazy, so I'm going to drive it like this and then go back to 14,13, and maybe 12 to see how it feels tomorrow.

Side note, I talked with Georg from Valley Hybrids about a 5 speed and all of the little things I need to do in order to make it work. Planning to do that in Feb - March time frame.
 
Yesterday we drove up to (exit 45 on I-90) Snoqualmie Pass again to hike the Ira Spring memorial trail.

108 miles driven, mostly freeway at 75mph
8 miles hiked, elevation gain 2420'

The drive was incredibly different vs last week now with 15 degrees of advance, which again seems odd. It has far more power, I can easily hit 75mph... when the road is reasonably flat and even in some rolling sections. I don't need to floor it all the time and I didn't hear any pinging. I'll play with it a bit today to see if I can fine tune it even more.

4 miles of that was a dirt road with tons of large pot holes. I can confirm the new suspension is amazing! Far smoother, we drove most of those 4 miles at about 15mph and it was still very smooth.

Here are some pics...

Mason creek along the dirt road on the way to the Ira Spring trail head.

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Mason Creek again after about .8 miles of hiking

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Boulder field along the way to the top.

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Trying to smile with a frozen mouth.

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Mason Lake with a skim layer of ice covering it
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The most bad ass rig in the parking lot... and there were lots to choose from.
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New Kenmore location of Stoup, Robust Porter (not pictured was their amazing burger, possibly the best in Seattle)
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15 degrees pings on the freeway at very light throttle. I had planned on spending a few hours test driving it with incrementally less and less advance until the pinging went away but alas, the Land Cruiser gods had other plans....
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I've ordered a new Aisin water pump, gaskets and will pop it in and get back to the timing adjustments soon.

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15 degrees pings on the freeway at very light throttle. I had planned on spending a few hours test driving it with incrementally less and less advance until the pinging went away but alas, the Land Cruiser gods had other plans....
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I've ordered a new Aisin water pump, gaskets and will pop it in and get back to the timing adjustments soon.

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One more thing to cross off the list.
 
Spent a few minutes cleaning the front of the engine and all of the parts I took off to get the water pump off.

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The fan clutch was coated with about a quarter inch of dirt and oil on both sides, it almost had me worried that it was leaking but it appears to be operating normally. I'll assume it is fine for now.
 
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