Also just finished reading through this thread and wanted to say great work on the rig! Inspiring me to add some items to my to do list on my new truck as well even though I’m just getting started.
Build "Falcor" the 1984 FJ60
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- Thread starter
- #162
Yeah good idea! I should have done that!! I'll remember that for next time. Glad to have gotten it out so easily and remedied the problem though... could have been a road trip stopper if I had to change a u-joint at the last minute.
- Thread starter
- #163
Thank you so much Hokie LX, that's very kind of you. I am happy that I was able to inspire you, just as others on this site have done for me. That's the whole idea right? It's fun and frustrating and expensive and you end up smelling like an oil refinery sometimes, you break a tool or smash a finger but at least you get your hands dirty and enjoy the journey enough to tackle another project as it comes up.
- Thread starter
- #164
I heard back from the lighting expert on my question about LED bulbs being run in a halogen housing like the Hella Vision Plus or the OEM Toyota Koito set ups. After reading this reply, I checked my Amazon app, found I could return the $75 sets of LEDs I bought for Scout and Falcor and bought the new Philips RacingVision GT200 bulbs that he has most recently tested/recommended.
I've also asked him if he'd like to embark on a project to compare the lighting output and beam pattern on the Koito housings vs the Hellas. I'm curious because the fluting is different and the design is quite a bit different.... stay tuned.
Hey Adam,
Apologies for the delayed reply.
First let me show you an interesting plot from some data I collected (posted in the 3rd Gen headlight thread) that took me a while to comprehend. It is simplistic, but illustrates and interesting point. This was testing various light sources in a 3rd Gen Tacoma projector.
![[IMG]](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Ftwstatic.net%2Fattachments%2Fupload_2019-1-30_10-38-54-jpg.3124241%2F&hash=8596143a40fd87a141b9cb97bdcd72bf "[IMG]")
What is interesting here is that all light sources reduce in intensity linearly compared to each other, except for LED. In reality, all light sources reduce in intensity at the same rate, but then why does the data look different for LED? The answer is that when you test LEDs in a halogen assembly at short range the pattern is not fully integrated/smoothed as you are using a bi-directional light source in a housing designed for an omni-directional light source. This essentially creates irregular hotspots in the reading that inflate the LED numbers. So when I test an LED light source in a halogen assembly, I test it at 42' (which is my max practical distance) which allows it to better integrate into the beam for an accurate reading. Diode Dynamics does their testing at 50'. Short distances will artificially inflate the LEDs lux number, and this is especially true for units that are poorly designed to prioritize output over focus making short distance testing even worse for product recommendations. I bring this up because Bulb Facts tests LEDs in halogen assemblies at 12'. The data is not going to be accurate and heavily incorrectly skewed to LED. Its also worth noting that site operates by kickbacks for whatever link you click to buy the recommended product, many LED brands will be willing to give heavier kick backs than a name brand lighting company that isn't going to give any.
Output is only one part of the equation, a more important part is focus. Take a look at the chart below of low beam testing done on an 2nd Gen Tacoma H4 reflector assembly.
![[IMG]](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Ftwstatic.net%2Fattachments%2Fupload_2019-6-2_23-42-24-png.3357820%2F&hash=e65d49acf0c9eb60abce3638fb7950e1 "[IMG]")
Note the 2nd from the left is a 90w Hella bulb, vastly more light output that the next 8 bulbs to the right that are running at 55w. Yet the other bulbs outperform the Hella in lighting intensity, even though the Hella is putting out far more light. Because all those other bulbs have superior focus and the way you get better focus for higher intensity output is making the light source smaller. With significantly less light output the Philips Racing Vision bulb puts out 20% more light intensity than the far more powerful Hella. This demonstrates how important focus is, and such small changes in geometry of light source size have significant impact on performance. You can see a short article by Philips explaining this works here. But the take away, is that smaller light sources provide better focus which causes to higher intensity output and extended distance projection. Replacement LEDs are larger light sources, much much larger. As an example:
Here is the target width:
![[IMG]](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Ftwstatic.net%2Fattachments%2Ffullsizeoutput_1054-jpg.3390717%2F&hash=d44bae50f944ae19a26eafbfa510d41e "[IMG]")
The current most advanced focused LED bulb on the market
![[IMG]](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Ftwstatic.net%2Fattachments%2Fbdc514dd-29a3-44e6-94ff-e97a7532b4ce_1_201_a-jpg.4291255%2F&hash=31e244cd21ad5dc4c759eaed20644cd8 "[IMG]")
Larger LEDs lead to loss of focus, which reduces your hotspot and reduces your distance projection. Instead, the loss of focus shifts the pattern and increases foreground light while reducing distance light. So even though they might be brighter, the additional light isn't used in a way that is beneficial, and can actually be counter productive.
The problem with increased foreground light, is that bright foreground light reduces your distance night vision, especially if you are compounding it with reducing your focus/hot spot/distance light. But the other issue is that people intrinsically like foreground light, it makes people feel better to have the area immediately in-front them lit up as we tend to judge light by what is closest to us, hence why you see so many people drive with their fogs on in clear weather. So when you get into a vehicle that has replacement LEDs and see a big increase in foreground light most peoples initial reaction is very positive, because of the large increase in light very close to you, even thought that isn't how a headlight is supposed to work.
You also run into issues on non-uniform light distribution. Since the LEDs only fire to the sides, they don't light up the whole housing like a halogen. In this picture below on my 2nd Gen Tacoma, you can see the area directly above the LED is not illuminated, because the LEDs only point to the sides. Those flutes not being illuminated means your are going to have areas in your pattern that are not getting light that should be.
![[IMG]](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Ftwstatic.net%2Fattachments%2Fpm3hmwq4suwwvxyy48xw9w-jpg.2957957%2F&hash=1c99e133ef68af0fb4a6ce57945253de "[IMG]")
The changes in geometry from the LED vs the halogen that the housing was designed for can also cause increased glare to oncoming drivers. Needless to say there is a lot that goes into a light source, and using an LED one in an assembly designed for halogens is full of compromises and generally speaking not a good practice. Replacement LED bulbs have never been legal, but NHSTA banned the sale of replacement LED bulbs for headlights earlier this year, forcing all domestic brands to recall their products. LEDs can work better in some headlight than others, due to their side-firing nature very short and wide rectangular lights are typically best suited, and round lights are typically among the worst.
So very long winded answer, no I would not recommend LEDs in your 7" housings, you'll get much better results with the proper halogen in a halogen assembly.
If you want to run LED, the appropriate way to do it is in an 7" LED assembly. I now drive a Gladiator, which has 9" round headlights but there are limited options in that size. There are 9"->7" conversion adapters, so I've done some evaluation of 7" LED headlights as well. I drive the passes in the snow often so a requirement for me is heated headlights, which really limits the options. You might find this post on comparing two 7" headlights interesting, #5369. Another interesting looking product that just came out at the Morimoto Retrobrights, lamps designed around their proprietary LED light source for vintage looks with claimed proper optics.
Holley RetroBright LFRB135 Holley RetroBright LED Headlight - Classic White (3000K) - https://www.holley.com/products/exterior/lighting/headlight/round_headlights/parts/LFRB135
Assuming those assemblies are H4, I'd check out this thread for performance lighting suggestions. Ignore the part about light assemblies.
The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID) - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-headlight-upgrade-h4-not-led-or-hid.398066/
I love the old FJ40s. I wouldn't be opposed to doing a 7" round light project, I'd done several other vehicles as well. I've got a bunch of stuff in my queue at the moment though. What exactly did you have in mind?
I've also asked him if he'd like to embark on a project to compare the lighting output and beam pattern on the Koito housings vs the Hellas. I'm curious because the fluting is different and the design is quite a bit different.... stay tuned.
Hey Adam,
Apologies for the delayed reply.
First let me show you an interesting plot from some data I collected (posted in the 3rd Gen headlight thread) that took me a while to comprehend. It is simplistic, but illustrates and interesting point. This was testing various light sources in a 3rd Gen Tacoma projector.
What is interesting here is that all light sources reduce in intensity linearly compared to each other, except for LED. In reality, all light sources reduce in intensity at the same rate, but then why does the data look different for LED? The answer is that when you test LEDs in a halogen assembly at short range the pattern is not fully integrated/smoothed as you are using a bi-directional light source in a housing designed for an omni-directional light source. This essentially creates irregular hotspots in the reading that inflate the LED numbers. So when I test an LED light source in a halogen assembly, I test it at 42' (which is my max practical distance) which allows it to better integrate into the beam for an accurate reading. Diode Dynamics does their testing at 50'. Short distances will artificially inflate the LEDs lux number, and this is especially true for units that are poorly designed to prioritize output over focus making short distance testing even worse for product recommendations. I bring this up because Bulb Facts tests LEDs in halogen assemblies at 12'. The data is not going to be accurate and heavily incorrectly skewed to LED. Its also worth noting that site operates by kickbacks for whatever link you click to buy the recommended product, many LED brands will be willing to give heavier kick backs than a name brand lighting company that isn't going to give any.
Output is only one part of the equation, a more important part is focus. Take a look at the chart below of low beam testing done on an 2nd Gen Tacoma H4 reflector assembly.
Note the 2nd from the left is a 90w Hella bulb, vastly more light output that the next 8 bulbs to the right that are running at 55w. Yet the other bulbs outperform the Hella in lighting intensity, even though the Hella is putting out far more light. Because all those other bulbs have superior focus and the way you get better focus for higher intensity output is making the light source smaller. With significantly less light output the Philips Racing Vision bulb puts out 20% more light intensity than the far more powerful Hella. This demonstrates how important focus is, and such small changes in geometry of light source size have significant impact on performance. You can see a short article by Philips explaining this works here. But the take away, is that smaller light sources provide better focus which causes to higher intensity output and extended distance projection. Replacement LEDs are larger light sources, much much larger. As an example:
Here is the target width:
The current most advanced focused LED bulb on the market
Larger LEDs lead to loss of focus, which reduces your hotspot and reduces your distance projection. Instead, the loss of focus shifts the pattern and increases foreground light while reducing distance light. So even though they might be brighter, the additional light isn't used in a way that is beneficial, and can actually be counter productive.
The problem with increased foreground light, is that bright foreground light reduces your distance night vision, especially if you are compounding it with reducing your focus/hot spot/distance light. But the other issue is that people intrinsically like foreground light, it makes people feel better to have the area immediately in-front them lit up as we tend to judge light by what is closest to us, hence why you see so many people drive with their fogs on in clear weather. So when you get into a vehicle that has replacement LEDs and see a big increase in foreground light most peoples initial reaction is very positive, because of the large increase in light very close to you, even thought that isn't how a headlight is supposed to work.
You also run into issues on non-uniform light distribution. Since the LEDs only fire to the sides, they don't light up the whole housing like a halogen. In this picture below on my 2nd Gen Tacoma, you can see the area directly above the LED is not illuminated, because the LEDs only point to the sides. Those flutes not being illuminated means your are going to have areas in your pattern that are not getting light that should be.
The changes in geometry from the LED vs the halogen that the housing was designed for can also cause increased glare to oncoming drivers. Needless to say there is a lot that goes into a light source, and using an LED one in an assembly designed for halogens is full of compromises and generally speaking not a good practice. Replacement LED bulbs have never been legal, but NHSTA banned the sale of replacement LED bulbs for headlights earlier this year, forcing all domestic brands to recall their products. LEDs can work better in some headlight than others, due to their side-firing nature very short and wide rectangular lights are typically best suited, and round lights are typically among the worst.
So very long winded answer, no I would not recommend LEDs in your 7" housings, you'll get much better results with the proper halogen in a halogen assembly.
If you want to run LED, the appropriate way to do it is in an 7" LED assembly. I now drive a Gladiator, which has 9" round headlights but there are limited options in that size. There are 9"->7" conversion adapters, so I've done some evaluation of 7" LED headlights as well. I drive the passes in the snow often so a requirement for me is heated headlights, which really limits the options. You might find this post on comparing two 7" headlights interesting, #5369. Another interesting looking product that just came out at the Morimoto Retrobrights, lamps designed around their proprietary LED light source for vintage looks with claimed proper optics.
Holley RetroBright LFRB135 Holley RetroBright LED Headlight - Classic White (3000K) - https://www.holley.com/products/exterior/lighting/headlight/round_headlights/parts/LFRB135
Assuming those assemblies are H4, I'd check out this thread for performance lighting suggestions. Ignore the part about light assemblies.
The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID) - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-headlight-upgrade-h4-not-led-or-hid.398066/
I love the old FJ40s. I wouldn't be opposed to doing a 7" round light project, I'd done several other vehicles as well. I've got a bunch of stuff in my queue at the moment though. What exactly did you have in mind?
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- Thread starter
- #165
Drove to Bend, the trip was great. 330 miles, the first long road trip since we brought Falcor home. Snoqualamie Pass sucked because of the weather, freezing rain and too many people….but at least it allowed the use of 70 or so miles of 4 wheel drive.
It likes premium fuel and I’m going to adjust the timing down from 15 degrees to 12 degrees today. It was comfortable and dependable.
The new Bronco sure does look awesome. I still like the 60 series better.
Arrived in Bend 8 hours later thanks to the slow driving in the pass and had a steak and a few beers at Deschutes Brewery.
It was a great trip.
It likes premium fuel and I’m going to adjust the timing down from 15 degrees to 12 degrees today. It was comfortable and dependable.
The new Bronco sure does look awesome. I still like the 60 series better.
Arrived in Bend 8 hours later thanks to the slow driving in the pass and had a steak and a few beers at Deschutes Brewery.
It was a great trip.
- Thread starter
- #166
Low vac at idle.
I went to adjust the timing and happened to put a vac gauge on the carb spacer port. I only get 15-16 hg.
I sprayed carb cleaner all over with no changes at idle. I cant figure out what’s causing this but possibly its a bad vac gauge.
Any ideas?
I went to adjust the timing and happened to put a vac gauge on the carb spacer port. I only get 15-16 hg.
I sprayed carb cleaner all over with no changes at idle. I cant figure out what’s causing this but possibly its a bad vac gauge.
Any ideas?
- Thread starter
- #167
I’m confident there are no vac leaks is what I intended to say.
- Thread starter
- #169
Okay will do. MoaByte for the second win, I didn’t know altitude affects vacuum readings.
The needle is steady and it runs pretty well. Maybe it’s just that I’m at 4k feet.
Yes altitude affects it alot, lowers as you gain height. Sea level will have the highest readings
- Thread starter
- #171
Thank you so much for saving me from looking for a problem that didn’t exist
- Thread starter
- #172
We did some skiing at Mt Bachelor and enjoyed driving the 60 all over in the snow. It did wonderful.
The icicles were pretty cool looking.
My parking brake froze so I guess I’m better off not using it when it’s really cold.
The icicles were pretty cool looking.
My parking brake froze so I guess I’m better off not using it when it’s really cold.
The vacuum looks normal for your altitude.
- Thread starter
- #174
I've been driving Falcor around Bend for the past week (over 200 miles). We've taken it up skiing twice now and there are a few improvements I'll need to make.
1) I need better wipers, "winter" wipers are 100% necessary here. The current wipers ice up and become useless the moment a stiff breeze blows making visibility a challenge. As I write this, it's snowing hard, 22 degrees and there's a winter storm warning.
2) I need better lighting all around. I just ordered these fogs.... Amazon product ASIN B08NW9DX6W I also have some brighter H4 bulbs I'm going to install. Both are a recommendation from Crashnburn80 based on his incredible study of automotive lighting in the Tacoma World forum.
Less important, when I get back to Seattle I'll be taking the tail lights and corner lights apart to do a clean and new bulbs, maybe LED bulbs to increase the brightness.
I'll also be yarding out the front seats and having an upholstery shop rebuild them with new foam and some seat heaters. They're pretty worn out.
The dog likes the 60!
1) I need better wipers, "winter" wipers are 100% necessary here. The current wipers ice up and become useless the moment a stiff breeze blows making visibility a challenge. As I write this, it's snowing hard, 22 degrees and there's a winter storm warning.
2) I need better lighting all around. I just ordered these fogs.... Amazon product ASIN B08NW9DX6W I also have some brighter H4 bulbs I'm going to install. Both are a recommendation from Crashnburn80 based on his incredible study of automotive lighting in the Tacoma World forum.
Less important, when I get back to Seattle I'll be taking the tail lights and corner lights apart to do a clean and new bulbs, maybe LED bulbs to increase the brightness.
I'll also be yarding out the front seats and having an upholstery shop rebuild them with new foam and some seat heaters. They're pretty worn out.
The dog likes the 60!
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Napa winter blades have done me well. -35° wiper fluid or else.
Thanks for the word on the lights. Aluminum tape on the reflectors with LED bulbs are cheap and easy. Do the reverse lights too.
Dog.. well yeah!
Keep a couple old mummy bags in the back just in case. My PO did that and passed it on to me. Good advice, people die out there.
Thanks for the word on the lights. Aluminum tape on the reflectors with LED bulbs are cheap and easy. Do the reverse lights too.
Dog.. well yeah!
Keep a couple old mummy bags in the back just in case. My PO did that and passed it on to me. Good advice, people die out there.
- Thread starter
- #176
Yep, made the switch to Winter wiper blades and took a trip up to the mountain for a day of skiing, made all the difference in the world!!
We keep some blankets and extra clothes in the rig in the Winter just for that reason.
Looking forward to upgrading to some LED marker lights, brake lights, turn signals and so forth. I also have a bunch of bulbs out in the dash but I think I'll stick with the regular bulbs as the pictures I've seen of LED bulbs in the gauge clusters look too bright. Do you have any experience with them?
- Thread starter
- #177
Installed my new head light bulbs per Crashnburn80's reccomendation.
They're considerably smaller but there is a reason for that... more focused light.
I don't think I need to tell you that the old bulb is on the left in the picture below.
Also installed the new Diode Dynamic SS3 MAX fog lights.
Before shot of the stock Koito headlights/bulbs and Offroad Town Fog Lights.
I'll get an after photo tonight and some time behind the wheel with the new lights.
Found a bottle of this too... if you know, you know.
They're considerably smaller but there is a reason for that... more focused light.
I don't think I need to tell you that the old bulb is on the left in the picture below.
Also installed the new Diode Dynamic SS3 MAX fog lights.
Before shot of the stock Koito headlights/bulbs and Offroad Town Fog Lights.
I'll get an after photo tonight and some time behind the wheel with the new lights.
Found a bottle of this too... if you know, you know.
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I completely agree. I swapped all exterior lights to LED and the dome lights with no regrets. I wish we had the option of two stage dome/cargo lights. The ones I chose are too dim, but beats being too bright. One thing I keep noticing is how great it is to not have all the modern updates. It's so cool to be in a well built and designed 1980's Land Cruiser, but dash cams, and other modern amenities are also desirable. It's kind of an identity crisis right? I would upgrade to led dash bulbs when I'm ready to tackle dimmer.
- Thread starter
- #179
Nearly 1000 miles so far on this trip and the cruiser is still chugging along nicely.
- Thread starter
- #180
Did a bit of a 1000 mile check this morning and then ordered some parts.
Clutch master/slave/hose - fluid is black and gross even though I flushed it a few times before we left for the trip... something is wearing out and the parts are cheap but the failure usually means a tow truck.
Brake master cylinder - The previous owner said that he had to add fluid once in a while even though everything was dry around all calipers, wheel cylinders and hoses... this morning I found the booster soaked.
Front axle rebuild kit - That front axle needs some love... I'm not certain what I will find when I pull it apart, hopefully nothing terrible but I know I'm using that front axle a ton here in the snow of Bend... time for a full refresh. I also ordered some rotors and already have some loaded calipers waiting at home for this job.
In the meantime, just driving the heck out of this pig and enjoying every mile!
Clutch master/slave/hose - fluid is black and gross even though I flushed it a few times before we left for the trip... something is wearing out and the parts are cheap but the failure usually means a tow truck.
Brake master cylinder - The previous owner said that he had to add fluid once in a while even though everything was dry around all calipers, wheel cylinders and hoses... this morning I found the booster soaked.
Front axle rebuild kit - That front axle needs some love... I'm not certain what I will find when I pull it apart, hopefully nothing terrible but I know I'm using that front axle a ton here in the snow of Bend... time for a full refresh. I also ordered some rotors and already have some loaded calipers waiting at home for this job.
In the meantime, just driving the heck out of this pig and enjoying every mile!