Factory Subwoofer Info Guide

[sleepycruiser]

Alpine S-S40 4" - they easily fit in the lift gate, the dash required trimming of some plastic to get the 4" to seat all the way down. If I were doing it again I'd probably go with 3 1/2" instead of 4" in the dash.

How do the Alpines sound? I installed the JBL GX and less than impressed. I put the stock back in. I didn’t even install both JBLs.

And yes, 4” speakers in the dash sucks on install. Lots of trimming and very limited room.

 

[patpend2000]

How do the Alpines sound? I installed the JBL GX and less than impressed. I put the stock back in. I didn’t even install both JBLs.

And yes, 4” speakers in the dash sucks on install. Lots of trimming and very limited room.

They sound great to me but I'm no audiophile. Words are clearer in songs and everything sounds more "crisp" to me

 

[sleepycruiser]

They sound great to me but I'm no audiophile. Words are clearer in songs and everything sounds more "crisp" to me

Thanks for the feedback. I was expecting the same from the JBLs but I could not hear a discernible difference and almost thought it sounded worse.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I also measured the impedance of the factory dash speaker as I had seen a video from Oz and the speaker was labeled as 8ohm. The factory dash speaker in my 2011 LC measured at 1.6 ohms, while the JBL GX measured right at 2ohms…so that should have been fine.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Posted this in the other thread, but a follow-up question for the sub….

“I returned the JBL GX402s or whatever that I bought for the dash. The tweeters on them had a super harsh rattle to them in the dash. I bought some JBL GX600C speakers for the front doors. Took a while to fab everything up, etc…..same harsh rattle in the tweeters. I took them out and put the stock speakers back in….no harshness from the tweeters. the factory speakers measured at 1.6ohm and the JBLs measured at 2.3 ohm. No idea what is going on, but I am done experimenting.”

SUB QUESTION: Has anyone replaced ONLY the sub with the one mentioned in this thread and thought it made a difference?

HD-800CF - CDT Audio 8" Carbon Fiber Cone Cast Alloy Audiophile Versabox Subwoofer

Understanding how the basic design differences influence the new CDT HD-Series subwoofers and how they compare with ordinary subwoofers will enable you and your installer to design a sound system both advancing your listening preferences and exceeding you

www.woofersetc.com

 

[NeilC]

Is there a current "best option" for a replacement 10" sub in a 2011 LX with the ML system? I see several options and it appears some require some modification but dual voice coil 4 ohm shallow versions wired in series seems to be the best. Anyone tried an 8 ohm single voice coil like for a home audio application?

 

[trudd]

Bubbling this back up. Sub in my new-to-me 2010 LX is blown. I was happy with the sound in my '09 LX, and just want a plug'n'play option to make the rattle go away. Read all 12 pages, and I don't think I've found a plug'n'play option that doesn't require another amp -- does such a thing exist?

 

[kcobourn]

Bubbling this back up. Sub in my new-to-me 2010 LX is blown. I was happy with the sound in my '09 LX, and just want a plug'n'play option to make the rattle go away. Read all 12 pages, and I don't think I've found a plug'n'play option that doesn't require another amp -- does such a thing exist?

You mean the rattle from a blown sub? Not sure.

There's always the 'all in' option where you do something like my setup ... dual 18s in an isobaric setup? :-D

 

[trudd]

You mean the rattle from a blown sub? Not sure.

There's always the 'all in' option where you do something like my setup ... dual 18s in an isobaric setup? :-D

View attachment 3477080View attachment 3477082View attachment 3477083

Hah. Yep. Looking for literally the opposite of that

 

[grinchy]

Bubbling this back up. Sub in my new-to-me 2010 LX is blown. I was happy with the sound in my '09 LX, and just want a plug'n'play option to make the rattle go away. Read all 12 pages, and I don't think I've found a plug'n'play option that doesn't require another amp -- does such a thing exist?

I threw my replaced OEM sub out a couple years ago. It sat on a shelf for a couple years, but I finally decided it had no future. Bummer!

It wasn’t a very distinguished item, most any high efficiency 6 or 8 ohm 10” sub should be fine to replace it.

 

[newuser999]

I threw my replaced OEM sub out a couple years ago. It sat on a shelf for a couple years, but I finally decided it had no future. Bummer!

It wasn’t a very distinguished item, most any high efficiency 6 or 8 ohm 10” sub should be fine to replace it.

If anyone is interested I have a OEM 10” from a 2013 I just pulled if you’re interested. Probably do $40 shipped.

 

[chewynew]

If anyone is interested I have a OEM 10” from a 2013 I just pulled if you’re interested. Probably do $40 shipped.

I'll take it if it's still available.

 

[trudd]

Bubbling this back up. Sub in my new-to-me 2010 LX is blown. I was happy with the sound in my '09 LX, and just want a plug'n'play option to make the rattle go away. Read all 12 pages, and I don't think I've found a plug'n'play option that doesn't require another amp -- does such a thing exist?

Well things worked out for me to pull the functional sub out of the old LX and swap it into the new-to-me LX. It was nice to have a car to practice trim and seat removal on!

 

[Ratchey]

After 3 years of debating I finally decided on a sub to replace the 8" JL in the back. I have had several in my cart at Sonic for a couple of years, but stumbled on a new one. The 10" Alpine Type S S2-W10D4. I ran the older versions and hated them as they couldn't take the power. The new version is rated at 300w per coil, 600 combined and 1800 peak. Depth is under 5" so should fit fine. Price was $250 on sale for $160 and I had a $44 credit from when I bought my DSP a few years ago so delivered price was $116.

Pulled it out of the box and it is a solid piece of sound equipment. Weight isn't that far off from an older Type R sub I have.

Unfortunately as I looked it over I found some damage. The box was sliced open on 2 edges of one end and the woofer mounting surface has a huge bend in it. The trim ring is cracked and I can't even remove it. The shipping box looked OK so believe it was dropped before being shipped but may have been during shipping as well.

It was the last dual 4ohm they had in stock. They do have a couple more dual 2 ohm and my amp puts out 600 watts at 2 or 4 ohm so may just swap for one of those.

Will post up again once I receive one in usable condition and get it installed.

 

[grinchy]

After 3 years of debating I finally decided on a sub to replace the 8" JL in the back. I have had several in my cart at Sonic for a couple of years, but stumbled on a new one. The 10" Alpine Type S S2-W10D4. I ran the older versions and hated them as they couldn't take the power. The new version is rated at 300w per coil, 600 combined and 1800 peak. Depth is under 5" so should fit fine. Price was $250 on sale for $160 and I had a $44 credit from when I bought my DSP a few years ago so delivered price was $116.

Pulled it out of the box and it is a solid piece of sound equipment. Weight isn't that far off from an older Type R sub I have.

Unfortunately as I looked it over I found some damage. The box was sliced open on 2 edges of one end and the woofer mounting surface has a huge bend in it. The trim ring is cracked and I can't even remove it. The shipping box looked OK so believe it was dropped before being shipped but may have been during shipping as well.

It was the last dual 4ohm they had in stock. They do have a couple more dual 2 ohm and my amp puts out 600 watts at 2 or 4 ohm so may just swap for one of those.

Will post up again once I receive one in usable condition and get it installed.

View attachment 3558606

View attachment 3558607

View attachment 3558608

View attachment 3558609

View attachment 3558610

That’s a nice W surround. Keep us posted on fit and sound. Bummer about the damage hopefully the exchange isn’t too much hassle.

I don’t need more bass (running my sub around 1/2 power right now), but so want more bass

 

[isthatalexus]

.

View attachment 2225715

View attachment 2225716

View attachment 2225717

View attachment 2225718

View attachment 2225719

Was just rearching related items due to suspected blown speaker. Saw this. Closed tab. Dug out old Sony Studio cans.

 

[YellowJacket]

Just in case some might wonder about what it takes to have a thumping system in a 200 Series, I wanted to add my experience. I had a buddy help me install basically the same size sub in the factory location and a small amp under the passenger front seat. With this, I was extremely satisfied and cannot imagine needing anything more. I often listen to podcasts and talk radio these days as a 41 year old, however after this system was installed, I seek out hard-hitting tracks that I can get into. Needless to say it's hurt my talk radio viewership. I did slightly upgrade the rear hatch speakers as well, but I don't think those really have anything to do with bass. I am very happy with the system as it sits overall now.

 

[shelby95]

Just in case some might wonder about what it takes to have a thumping system in a 200 Series, I wanted to add my experience. I had a buddy help me install basically the same size sub in the factory location and a small amp under the passenger front seat. With this, I was extremely satisfied and cannot imagine needing anything more. I often listen to podcasts and talk radio these days as a 41 year old, however after this system was installed, I seek out hard-hitting tracks that I can get into. Needless to say it's hurt my talk radio viewership. I did slightly upgrade the rear hatch speakers as well, but I don't think those really have anything to do with bass. I am very happy with the system as it sits overall now.

More details about the sub, amp and wiring? Thanks.

 

[YellowJacket]

More details about the sub, amp and wiring? Thanks.

Here's the receipt. I can add a few more photos later if anyone wants more.

 

[shelby95]

Thanks, man. I need to read up on how to get the signal for just the sub.