Thank you. now looking at an Alpine S2 and if I can get it to fit behind the panel, the ACX 600.1
Factory Subwoofer Info Guide (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Murckman
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
There is quite a bit of space if you relocate the jack. I just put my jack in my drawer.
Eric... I just purchased a 2013 Lexus LX 570 with ML-- know it is different than the JBL in the 200-series LC, but reaching out in the hopes that you or someone could point me to a resource where I can find proper fit / fitment for replacement of all OEM speakers / drivers... and possibly adding a stealth sealed & powered slim sub (or 2) vs. the way-too-boomy ported 8" in the plastic box in the rear. In looking at your pics... this is me. I'm OCD about my audio & even though the LX platform has superior sound deadening out of the factory, I tend to go over the top with it. My usual go-to source for determining best drop-in replacement solutions, Crutchfield, doesn't have a guide for the 2013-2018 LX 570s with the ML system. Nearest I could find on Crutchfield is for a 2014-2018 GX460 with the ML system... I'm assuming that at least SOME of the platform of the GX & LX overlap, but you know what they say about assuming. I've not reached the end of the internet (yet) in trying to find a good resource guide re: size, fit, fitment, impedence, etc. for replacing the OEM drivers / speakers & adding two (2) sealed slim-fit subs and bypassing the OEM ported box, but approaching the pull-out-my-hair-in-frustration edge in trying to find good, solid info for the specs & good drop-in options for the OEM speakers / drivers on my new-to-me 2013 LX 570. And, no, buying replacement OEM Lexus drivers/speakers isn't a solution for me. TIA for pointing me to any resource with more detailed info-- and btw awesome job on your 200-series LC!!!! Again, I'm OCD re: my rigs audio / sound deadening & I'd rather do all/most of the work myself vs. just taking the rig to some high-end 3rd party stereo installer company (and, if I can't find this info... not sure I'd trust a 3rd party to do it either btw).
Grinchy, glad I found this thread. Just purchased a 2013 LX 570 with the ML system. I've spent 15+ hours scouring the bowels of the internet to determine best options for drop-in (or minimal modification) speakers / drivers for the OEM drivers. In my experience with all other high-end audio systems in luxury vehicles-- BMW, Audi, Merceds, you name it... the 'name' high-end systems (B&O, B&W, Meridian, and, yes, ML) tend to derive from said company designing the amp(s), and perhaps adding input to the vehicle manufacturer on where to best locate speakers, size of driver(s) used in each location... but ultimately have nothing to do with the actual sourcing / building / design of the OEM speakers. So no matter the nameplate of the higher-optioned audio system, the OEM drivers / speakers all tend to be, well, crap. Crutchfield doesn't have a guide/manual for the 2013-2016 LX 470 with the ML system for best drop-in fit, fitment, impedence, etc. The best I could find was the Crutchfield guide for the 2014-2018 GX 460 with the ML system. I assume that there is some degree of overlap in what will work in the GX & LX (i.e., the front dash corner spears in both appear to be 4" mids with 4ohm impedence). But you know what they say about assuming. Don't want to just blindly order what Crutchfield recommends for the GX 460 w/ the ML system & open everything up, as I have no idea how much overlap there will be in the 2 platforms. Anyhow... pinging you as you seemed to have gone down the rabbit hole & would love to know any suggestions you have / lessons learned / experience to share. In the FWIW department, I'd like to replace all speakers / drivers and either a) less preferable, go with the 10" sub in the ported box, as it appears you did-- ported boxes for my bass are a bit too 'boomy' & muddled for my taste or b) most preferable, bypass the OEM ported box where the sub is located and instead employ two (2) sealed, slim-fit self-powered 8"s or 10"s with their own built-in amps that I can hide away without eating into any interior cab space. Anyhow... as you seem to have gone down the audio rabbit hole on the 2013 LX 570 with the ML system & I'm at my wits end trying to find good, reliable, info on what works / doesn't work with zero to minor modification (i.e., have no interest in breaking out a jigsaw to hack away at the interior, weld, or build ground-up custom fab. platforms)... wanted to touch base & get any input you might have. TIA!!
The stock sub is sealed on all 200s. Lx570s got a 10”, tlc an 8”
I ultimately replaced the entire signal path (though I can use the stock HU as a source if necessary). I didn’t replace any drivers except the sub.
My year Lx (2009) ML system places a coax 5.1 digital signal and full range 2 channel analog right on the ‘input’ connectors to the amplifier. This may vary by year, so grab the fsm and give it a look. The tlc jbl system uses a most protocol (private network) to the amp and is much less amenable to aftermarket updates as you have to grab the signal post amplifier.
I just put those outputs from the HU direct into my DSP, and then amplified the existing drivers with new micro amps and sub amp. Later I got a streaming DAC permanently installed and serve that via BT from a CarPlay HU. This of course depends on what you want to do on the front end for sources. My current signal path is typically Apple Music -> CarPlay HU -> DAC (all that is BT) -> optical -> DSP -> Amps.
The dsp has a direct BT connection, but it is a bit flakey, so I got the DAC.
The reason I did all this was failure of the ML amplifier.
Last edited:
I'm in the same boat. I have some Kenwood 3.5s from a previous project purchased from Crutchfield... but they're rated
4 ohms. I guess I could wire them in parallel to make each a 2ohm speaker, but there's gotta be other solutions!
10-4. My ML amp (3 days of ownership, granted) is working fine. First 2 things I do with any new-to-me vehicle purchase is a) new tires (done yesterday) and b) pull out all OEM speakers / drivers and replace with good aftermarket ones. That Alpine 10" w/ a monoblock amp looks to be where I'll be going for my sub solution. My f&*$)%& eyes are bleary after 18+ hours of scouring the internet, FB groups, etc. Any thoughts on drivers / speakers? I'm the only one in the family who's a OCD-bordering-on-insane audiophile for my cars. While it will primarily be wifey's rig, when we're riding as a family, I always drive. So mainly concerned re: driver-position soundstage (i.e., the front-- 3 front dash speakers, two on the front doors, upper & lower, & A pillar tweeters. I think I have a decent solution for the L&R front dash (not too many choices for 2-ohm speakers, but I suppose one could wire in parallel a set of 4-ohms-- and there are a crap-ton more options of 3.5" or 4" 4-ohm drivers vs. 2-ohm options). ALSO A Q: is the bottom front door panel speaker a 6x9 or a 6" or a 6.5"???? And what is impedence for same? I mean for pretty much any other vehicle you can, say, go on Crutchfield.com or give them a call, or find a Youtube video & get answers. I'm coming up dry in my quest for much out there in terms of upgrading the OEM drivers / speakers.... TIA for any thoughts/suggestions & damn glad I found this thread!
You’ll probably have to pull the panels and measure the bolt circle. The few that have retrofitted drivers seem to be in TLC, and they are fitting drivers that work for the size of the space/bracket, often adapting the rings or screw locations.
As you say, a modern, large magnet speaker in 6” might be the same as an OEM 6.5”.
10-4. on that note, is the lower door speaker a 6", a 6.6" or a 6x9? Methinks the 2006-2007 100-series had 6x9s, and I think that the 2014 GX 460 with the ML system also uses a 6x9 in the lower doors (which btw Crutchfield actually has a speaker guide for the 2014-2018 GX 460 w/ ML... which I'd assume shares some of the same speakers/drivers as the LX 570 (i.e., especially something like the front dash where cross-platform mfg uniformity would make a lot of sense). But, of course, you know what they say about assuming things. I called Crutchfield to ask, but got nowhere-- generally uber knowledgeable & helpful, but they don't have any guides for the 570 either so weren't able to provide any input / color re: how much of the GX 460 with the ML system dupes over / is the same as what is used in the 570 ML platform. One of the few (only?) times in my 20-years as a Crutchfield customer where they didn't have an answer.
So I think some of the magic smoke escaped.
What I can get to work is I get basic signal pass-through if I pull the output RCAs and just barely insert them so that the outer ring just touches the outer terminal sleeve. I can get the same signal by removing both output RCAs and just touching the tip of one to any output terminal outer sleeve. I can do this on either the DSP or the amp side.
The bigger issue is that I can no longer connect to the processor at all. Tried 3 different USB cables. Nothing. Remote bass control does not work. All signals are being summed to the output and no processing is happening.
I uninstalled the software on the laptop and reinstalled an older version but still unable to connect, On occasion I can see the blue USB light flicker for a few seconds but then stops and remains off.
Have a ticket open with AC but assume I am going to have to send it in for repair.
Sounds busted. That sucks.
Sorry wrong response reply. . .
I don’t know the sizes. Beyond saying the 2009 lx takes a 10” sun and can fit a 1/2” mounting ring.
Last edited:
Wanted to update everyone. I really had my mind set on running the ACX 600.1 and the Alpine S2. But decided to try to find a direct fit option that could fit the bill. In summary....I failed.
I do not know the intricacies of car audio, but can read specs and thought that through all of your wonderful wisdom on here I found the perfect match as a stock replacement for the LX570 (2010).
See link below:
The speaker fits well enough. Slight modification regarding the foam on the topside of the lip, and some new holes for the screws.
Where things went wrong is when I hooked everything up to test, barely any movement. When isolating the bass and the stereo to the passenger rear, i could turn the volume up enough to garner some bass, but that's about it.
Given that this speaker fits so well, I would like to use an amp to power it. First thought is the Audio Control ACX 300.1.
Any recommendations as far as keeping this speaker and giving it a proper go? Or scrap it all together and go with my original plan?
I do not know the intricacies of car audio, but can read specs and thought that through all of your wonderful wisdom on here I found the perfect match as a stock replacement for the LX570 (2010).
See link below:
The speaker fits well enough. Slight modification regarding the foam on the topside of the lip, and some new holes for the screws.
Where things went wrong is when I hooked everything up to test, barely any movement. When isolating the bass and the stereo to the passenger rear, i could turn the volume up enough to garner some bass, but that's about it.
Given that this speaker fits so well, I would like to use an amp to power it. First thought is the Audio Control ACX 300.1.
Any recommendations as far as keeping this speaker and giving it a proper go? Or scrap it all together and go with my original plan?
This is just my opinion but I wouldn't use that amp for that. You will only be getting about 87 watts of power to it.
I would avoid any 8 ohm speaker for a sub unless you are running them in an array.
The reason it didn't really work with the stock amp is I believe the stock sub is 2 ohm svc. So you were getting about 1/4th the power the stock sub was getting.
The speaker you selected is designed to be run in a home stereo setup and is more of a regular woofer as opposed to a subwoofer. The easiest way to tell is the frequency response. The replacement woofer you selected is 20-3000 Hz. The Alpine S2 is 23-215Hz.
Thank you. I was under the impression the stock sub was 8 ohm.
I see what you mean regarding the frequency response. My assumption there was that the frequency would be limited by the amp.
Yep, even with that high speaker sensitivity the stock amp won’t be able to drive an 8 ohm speaker to a good volume. The stock amp is like 220w peak (so maybe 125 real) into 2ohm, so optimistically 30w into 8 ohm.
Even the acx 300.1 will likely only be around 80W into an 8 ohm (it is not rated at 8 ohm, just guessing). The 600.1 probably would do maybe 175w into that load, again not rated.
Even the acx 300.1 will likely only be around 80W into an 8 ohm (it is not rated at 8 ohm, just guessing). The 600.1 probably would do maybe 175w into that load, again not rated.
Can this sub be powered by the factory wiring and still sound better than stock? I know without a dedicated amp it's not going to perform to is fullest but if it sounds even a little better over the stock 10 inch, it'd be worth it to me. Mine is a 14 LX.
Is your stock sub ‘blown’? The stock system is impedance matched (the speakers are the load the amp expects). It’s hard to say how the stock amp will respond against a new load?
I can say even a modest $90 speaker and $100 micro amp (but behind a new dsp), sounded really good. But of course the dsp allows much to make it sound really good. My guess is It was around 130W.
With that same $90 sub behind a pawn shop sub amp which if I recall is 280w into 8ohm (dyno rated), it’s better again.
Obviously with more power it’ll get louder and have less distortion.
I can say even a modest $90 speaker and $100 micro amp (but behind a new dsp), sounded really good. But of course the dsp allows much to make it sound really good. My guess is It was around 130W.
With that same $90 sub behind a pawn shop sub amp which if I recall is 280w into 8ohm (dyno rated), it’s better again.
Obviously with more power it’ll get louder and have less distortion.
Last edited:
The sub opening is 10.75" so that sub won't fit without modifications to the enclosure. The mounting tabs at 11.2" are too large to fit into the sub opening.
Also that sub needs about 200 watts to really do anything and with an efficiency rating of 82 db I doubt the stock amp would even move the cone.
If you are trying to not install an amp, in this case you will want a much lower powered, higher efficiency sub (93db or higher)
Might be a bit too deep but something along these lines "MIGHT" work:
Infinity REF1070 10" 1000W with 4-Ohm 2-Ohm Switch Subwoofer
Infinity REF1070 10" 1000W with 4-Ohm 2-Ohm Switch Subwoofer
www.woofersetc.com
Nope. It works fine. Was just thinking "upgrade" lol
But if the stock amp can't power an aftermarket sub without issues then I'll just keep it as is.
