Mark Levinson (LX570) only
Low level signal INPUT on F18
More F18 Mappings
Low level signal INPUT on F18
More F18 Mappings
Factory Subwoofer Info Guide (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Murckman
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I realize this thread is old but had a question about replacing just the stock sub.
I see you all have had good luck with the CDT HD800 8” sub but I found another shallow 8” sub with a higher sensitivity of 91db vs 87 for the CDT. It’s costs roughly twice as much.
www.crutchfield.com
If I never plan to add an amp would that higher sensitivity make a noticeable difference in sub performance?
Thanks! This is a really helpful thread!
Edit: Anybody have any thoughts on this? @Murckman @grinchy @NCMTNS
I see you all have had good luck with the CDT HD800 8” sub but I found another shallow 8” sub with a higher sensitivity of 91db vs 87 for the CDT. It’s costs roughly twice as much.
Audiofrog GS8ND2
GS Series 8" subwoofer/mid-bass speaker with dual 2-ohm voice coils
www.crutchfield.com
If I never plan to add an amp would that higher sensitivity make a noticeable difference in sub performance?
Thanks! This is a really helpful thread!
Edit: Anybody have any thoughts on this? @Murckman @grinchy @NCMTNS
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Personally I don't think worth the money. I don't know how much more difference it would make for that cost. I really like the CDT. Remember, it's only an 8" subwoofer in a plastic OEM housing so you are only going to get so much air movement and acoustics. That said, the CDT does sound better and "louder" than stock...I realize this thread is old but had a question about replacing just the stock sub.
I see you all have had good luck with the CDT HD800 8” sub but I found another shallow 8” sub with a higher sensitivity of 91db vs 87 for the CDT. It’s costs roughly twice as much.
Audiofrog GS8ND2
GS Series 8" subwoofer/mid-bass speaker with dual 2-ohm voice coils
If I never plan to add an amp would that higher sensitivity make a noticeable difference in sub performance?
Thanks! This is a really helpful thread!
Edit: Anybody have any thoughts on this? @Murckman @grinchy @NCMTNS
Depth is limiting in the stock box, won’t be able to run any of the cool 8” deep super wattage coils.
My 08LX has a raspy rattling subwoofer. What is the best way to get the grill off of the sub? Does any one have a recommendation on plastic pry tools for the various interior panels?
I think the grill itself is part of the whole side panel. There’s some basic guidance further back in this thread, maybe page 3.
I have a set of those tools from griots and they’re ok although I snapped the tip off of one small tool by prying pretty hard. I wouldn’t go cheap on them.
You have to pull the quarter panel cover. It's a few screws at the tailgate and under the side door access, and then about 20 blue clips.
Thanks guys. I guess it's time to pull the rear seats.
You may be able to put the seat down and pop the clips at the top of the quarter panel trim. Or you try to access via the jack panel area. You might be able to do a lot with one hand up in there. To actually pull the sub box you’ll need to take off the quarter trim.
Saw in an old ML brochure that the LX570 subwoofer box is 22l. That's 0.77 cubic feet.
That is helpful. I am still looking at a new replacement 10" woofer.
Just got a new medium power monoblock amp. Odds are even it will blow my current jbl ws1000 (only 200w rms). When it does I’m pretty sure I’ll replace with the sundown sml 10. Or a ddaudio sl600.
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Fresh in from the pawnshop. Should do around 225w into 10 ohm load my sub has in series. Sub rated at 200w. Very safe. Amp not rated at 10 ohm, but does 280w at 8 ohm. Efficiency thru the roof - 96%+.
Could also put it in parallel on the sub and run it at around 450+w into 2.5 ohm. (Rated at 500w at 2 ohm).
Some amp demo tests have this amp running 30% over actual vs rated.
Which should I choose?
Test results
<just found this resource, which says the SVC is 4.12, and DVC is 1.83. My ohmeter reads the static coils a bit higher). The SW comes with a switch which runs it SVC or Parallel DVC (4ohm or 2Ohm). I broke that off on install, so I can run it parallel DVC, SVC, or SeriesDVC, 1.83, 4.12 or 8.25> It's a JBL club ws1000.
Could also put it in parallel on the sub and run it at around 450+w into 2.5 ohm. (Rated at 500w at 2 ohm).
Some amp demo tests have this amp running 30% over actual vs rated.
Which should I choose?
Test results
<just found this resource, which says the SVC is 4.12, and DVC is 1.83. My ohmeter reads the static coils a bit higher). The SW comes with a switch which runs it SVC or Parallel DVC (4ohm or 2Ohm). I broke that off on install, so I can run it parallel DVC, SVC, or SeriesDVC, 1.83, 4.12 or 8.25> It's a JBL club ws1000.
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I love progress. It's now possible to get a full blown RTA for $35! And a full on oscilloscope for $30. I can't even believe it. Anyhow, I got the IMM-6 microphone from Dayton Audio, the branded apple lightning to 3.5mm trrs adapter, and used the Audiocontrol MobileTools app from the itunes store. The app allows use of the microphone calibration file from Dayton Audio. Pink noise at 0db from youtube via bluetooth to the DSP from my laptop.
Looks like I have a bit of a gap around 200 and 500 hz, and need to turn the tweeters up too. I'm running hot on the bottom (on purpose).
This is the current setup before eI swap in the new subwoofer amp.
I have full control via the DSP, so after I add the new amp and set the gains with my new 'scope, I should be able to play with the crossovers and ranges for everything and get this sounding even more mint.
Looks like I have a bit of a gap around 200 and 500 hz, and need to turn the tweeters up too. I'm running hot on the bottom (on purpose).
This is the current setup before eI swap in the new subwoofer amp.
I have full control via the DSP, so after I add the new amp and set the gains with my new 'scope, I should be able to play with the crossovers and ranges for everything and get this sounding even more mint.
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This bodes well for bumping.
Sadly I’ll have to relocate the stock jack, the new amp won’t fit thru the cubby slot.
Sadly I’ll have to relocate the stock jack, the new amp won’t fit thru the cubby slot.
Tucked in. Gain set by oscilloscope but I can reach it so easy to adjust if necessary. Tucks right in there.
Used a 1/4” Forstner but to remove the plastics rivets holding the pocket to the door.
Snowshoe tomorrow, might be able to look at levels on Monday.
Jack moved to my drawer, but I’ll likely try to make a space for it in the wing.
Used a 1/4” Forstner but to remove the plastics rivets holding the pocket to the door.
Snowshoe tomorrow, might be able to look at levels on Monday.
Jack moved to my drawer, but I’ll likely try to make a space for it in the wing.
Not balanced yet, just at safety levels. It is super awesome. Being over amped is such a luxury. The bass control is absolutely amazing. I’m bouncing raindrops off the windshield and it’s not too loud. No distortion. Really recommend.
That looks like a fun install! Post up some db results. Bet it sounds awesome. What’s the tuning/f3 on that install?
I’m constrained to the stock box and space behind the wings, but did consider putting the amp out on the back of the drawer so I could keep the jack in the stock location. Underseat location used by my dsp and the other 11 channels of amplification. It’s interesting that jbl amp is shorter than the ML amp.
Probably was easily hitting 140s while breaking the speakers in before we did a really simple auto-eq tune to flatten the curve out. Real priority is a daily SQ build with another SPL setting for when my two boys want to have their hair move ha! Enough cone area to get down low too
There's no "tuning" on a sealed box per se, except by manipulating size. At a certain size it stops changing the response, but below that point there will be box rise at a certain frequency, which creates a peak just above the roll off. For this box (about 6 cu ft volume), that peak is at about 32Hz. F3 (rolloff) is around 26 or 27Hz if I'm remembering correctly. But, cabin gain starts to take effect around 30Hz, which cancels out the roll off, resulting in a flat response once that box rise is EQ'd out.
Running the 3-way front stage (800w/8) / subs (mono 1000w) on JL Audio VXis.
Will be starting a build thread on this process to explain what exactly got done.
Still have quite a bit to do including finishing the box & heading over to MTI to do a MAX JL tune.
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