Factory Subwoofer Info Guide (5 Viewers)

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finboy said:
Complete ignorance here, a buddy is selling his Audison AP1 D and Evo 2410 D4 sub/amp setup, workable solution given the stock box and wiring considerations? I’m in a “don’t know what I don’t know” scenario where it’s a good price but no,idea if it’s even a workable idea for the vehicle.
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I can't find any info on this Audison AP1 D. The closest thing that comes up is a tweeter. (Edit: nevermind, I see it now..at least sort of) I assume that's not what we are talking about. Audison makes processors, so if that amp has a processor built in, it could be similar to the Audiocontrol linked above. (Edit: I see this model doesn't have any processing capabilities)

There are not many custom stereo installs for 200 series because of how complicated the system is (well less about complication and more about how integrated it is). Also, as you stated, not really the primary focus of this forum. Club Lexus probably has far more info on stereo installs.

In this case it also doesn't help that there are multiple iterations of the stereos in both LX and LC form (that work fairly differently) so there isn't really a one answer works for all.
 
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lx200inAR said:
I can't find any info on this Audison AP1 D. The closest thing that comes up is a tweeter. (Edit: nevermind, I see it now..at least sort of) I assume that's not what we are talking about. Audison makes processors, so if that amp has a processor built in, it could be similar to the Audiocontrol linked above. (Edit: I see this model doesn't have any processing capabilities)

There are not many custom stereo installs for 200 series because of how complicated the system is (well less about complication and more about how integrated it is). Also, as you stated, not really the primary focus of this forum. Club Lexus probably has far more info on stereo installs.

In this case it also doesn't help that there are multiple iterations of the stereos in both LX and LC form (that work fairly differently) so there isn't really a one answer works for all.
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Totally, I have tracked down a local shop and the owner has an lx570, I’ll update this thread if I get any good details on the non-ML system as I figure out how to improve.
 
sleepycruiser said:
Posted this in the other thread, but a follow-up question for the sub….

“I returned the JBL GX402s or whatever that I bought for the dash. The tweeters on them had a super harsh rattle to them in the dash. I bought some JBL GX600C speakers for the front doors. Took a while to fab everything up, etc…..same harsh rattle in the tweeters. I took them out and put the stock speakers back in….no harshness from the tweeters. the factory speakers measured at 1.6ohm and the JBLs measured at 2.3 ohm. No idea what is going on, but I am done experimenting.”

SUB QUESTION: Has anyone replaced ONLY the sub with the one mentioned in this thread and thought it made a difference?

HD-800CF - CDT Audio 8" Carbon Fiber Cone Cast Alloy Audiophile Versabox Subwoofer

Understanding how the basic design differences influence the new CDT HD-Series subwoofers and how they compare with ordinary subwoofers will enable you and your installer to design a sound system both advancing your listening preferences and exceeding you
www.woofersetc.com www.woofersetc.com
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Also interested in the “sub question “. Are people still buying the cdt sub’s? If so, from where? Been looking to replace my factory sub in my LC200
 
Hey everyone, this is a crazy long discussion and I'm sure it's in here somewhere, but quick question:
I may try to use a gasket repair kit on my torn subwoofer. Can you gain access to the speaker by removing the perforated cover? Not sure if you can pry just that piece out or the seat/whole side paneling needs to be removed? Thanks!
 
Valentino85 said:
Hey everyone, this is a crazy long discussion and I'm sure it's in here somewhere, but quick question:
I may try to use a gasket repair kit on my torn subwoofer. Can you gain access to the speaker by removing the perforated cover? Not sure if you can pry just that piece out or the seat/whole side paneling needs to be removed? Thanks!
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your have to take off the entire side. It's surprisingly few screws (some at back, one or two up front under the foot pad at 2nd door). Lots and lots of clips.
 
grinchy said:
your have to take off the entire side. It's surprisingly few screws (some at back, one or two up front under the foot pad at 2nd door). Lots and lots of clips.
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Damn....that sucks. I was hoping to just repair it and spare myself the whole removal process. Odd that perforated cover has a seem and appears to come off. I was afraid to pry too hard and break it though. Thanks for reply.
 
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Valentino85 said:
Hey everyone, this is a crazy long discussion and I'm sure it's in here somewhere, but quick question:
I may try to use a gasket repair kit on my torn subwoofer. Can you gain access to the speaker by removing the perforated cover? Not sure if you can pry just that piece out or the seat/whole side paneling needs to be removed? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Howdy! The whole panel needs to be removed. It is really not that difficult. I can do it in about 5 minutes now, but for a first timer expect it to take about 30. You will need to remove your rear passenger seat along with a few screws as well as the middle row passenger seat belt anchor point. It is held in with plastic clips and pulls out with a hearty tug starting in one of the corners. There are plenty of videos on YouTube as well as instructions here on mud with a simple search.
 
Gary200akaJimmy said:
Howdy! The whole panel needs to be removed. It is really not that difficult. I can do it in about 5 minutes now, but for a first timer expect it to take about 30. You will need to remove your rear passenger seat along with a few screws as well as the middle row passenger seat belt anchor point. It is held in with plastic clips and pulls out with a hearty tug starting in one of the corners. There are plenty of videos on YouTube as well as instructions here on mud with a simple search.
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I appreciate the insight. Lexus was saying it's 3hrs labor. 😂
 
Valentino85 said:
I appreciate the insight. Lexus was saying it's 3hrs labor. 😂
Click to expand...

This is why they have those fancy leather chairs to sit in while drinking that latte they offered you while you ate that cookie.

IYKYK
 
ElRob said:
currently looking for this type of solution. KISS.

would the audio control ACM-1.300 - AudioControl - https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/acm-1300/ be a good option for this speaker? or can you recommend one?
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The ACM=1.300 will work fine for the D4 version of that sub, but I am not sure that sub would be a simple install. The sub mount is 10.75" and that subs mounting tabs are 11.2". Even with a custom mounting ring, I have a feeling that sub would sit too far out and hit the panel. Because of the mounting tabs on the sub, it would have to sit completely above the sub box which has a protrusion all of the way around the stock sub.
It is possible that they could reform the box with a heat gun but then you are messing with the already minimal structural integrity of the box.

I could be wrong on this as JL does not give the over all height on their website. (I do know my 8w3 hit the panel when I tried a wooden mounting ring so had to have a metal one made)
 
ElRob said:
currently looking for this type of solution. KISS.

would the audio control ACM-1.300 - AudioControl - https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/acm-1300/ be a good option for this speaker? or can you recommend one?
Click to expand...

Ratchey said:
The ACM=1.300 will work fine for the D4 version of that sub, but I am not sure that sub would be a simple install. The sub mount is 10.75" and that subs mounting tabs are 11.2". Even with a custom mounting ring, I have a feeling that sub would sit too far out and hit the panel. Because of the mounting tabs on the sub, it would have to sit completely above the sub box which has a protrusion all of the way around the stock sub.
It is possible that they could reform the box with a heat gun but then you are messing with the already minimal structural integrity of the box.

I could be wrong on this as JL does not give the over all height on their website. (I do know my 8w3 hit the panel when I tried a wooden mounting ring so had to have a metal one made)
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That’s good beta on the speaker.

I’d suggest a bigger amp, the audio control acx 600.1 looks good. I moved from a 300 to a 500 and it’s a big difference. It was also from the micro amp style to a more conventional class d, same woofer and the main thing is the larger amp can control that speaker coil, so it sounds clean. I can also dial up more low end on the dsp without it fuzzing out.
 
Ratchey said:
After 3 years of debating I finally decided on a sub to replace the 8" JL in the back. I have had several in my cart at Sonic for a couple of years, but stumbled on a new one. The 10" Alpine Type S S2-W10D4. I ran the older versions and hated them as they couldn't take the power. The new version is rated at 300w per coil, 600 combined and 1800 peak. Depth is under 5" so should fit fine. Price was $250 on sale for $160 and I had a $44 credit from when I bought my DSP a few years ago so delivered price was $116.

Pulled it out of the box and it is a solid piece of sound equipment. Weight isn't that far off from an older Type R sub I have.

Unfortunately as I looked it over I found some damage. The box was sliced open on 2 edges of one end and the woofer mounting surface has a huge bend in it. The trim ring is cracked and I can't even remove it. The shipping box looked OK so believe it was dropped before being shipped but may have been during shipping as well.

It was the last dual 4ohm they had in stock. They do have a couple more dual 2 ohm and my amp puts out 600 watts at 2 or 4 ohm so may just swap for one of those.

Will post up again once I receive one in usable condition and get it installed.

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How’s the alpine sub doing?
 
grinchy said:
How’s the alpine sub doing?
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Hard to say. My DP decided to stop processing about 4 miles into my trip to LCDC. I haven't had time to tear out the fridge and floor to get to it to reset it. Up until then it was doing great. Very pleased with the new version 2 of the Type S.
I think that will be a "this weekend project". Heading to Yellowstone next week and not prepared for another road trip with no bass. :bang:
 
Ratchey said:
Hard to say. My DP decided to stop processing about 4 miles into my trip to LCDC. I haven't had time to tear out the fridge and floor to get to it to reset it. Up until then it was doing great. Very pleased with the new version 2 of the Type S.
I think that will be a "this weekend project". Heading to Yellowstone next week and not prepared for another road trip with no bass. :bang:
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So frustrating. I hope all the magic smoke is still in there.
I’m pretty sure there’d be a stack of gear on the ground roadside if my sub went out.
 
Ratchey said:
The ACM=1.300 will work fine for the D4 version of that sub, but I am not sure that sub would be a simple install. The sub mount is 10.75" and that subs mounting tabs are 11.2". Even with a custom mounting ring, I have a feeling that sub would sit too far out and hit the panel. Because of the mounting tabs on the sub, it would have to sit completely above the sub box which has a protrusion all of the way around the stock sub.
It is possible that they could reform the box with a heat gun but then you are messing with the already minimal structural integrity of the box.

I could be wrong on this as JL does not give the over all height on their website. (I do know my 8w3 hit the panel when I tried a wooden mounting ring so had to have a metal one made)
Click to expand...
Thanks. Reading back through now considering the Alpine S2-W10D4 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500S2W10D4/Alpine-S2-W10D4.html
 
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