Factory Subwoofer Info Guide (7 Viewers)

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Just in case some might wonder about what it takes to have a thumping system in a 200 Series, I wanted to add my experience. I had a buddy help me install basically the same size sub in the factory location and a small amp under the passenger front seat. With this, I was extremely satisfied and cannot imagine needing anything more. I often listen to podcasts and talk radio these days as a 41 year old, however after this system was installed, I seek out hard-hitting tracks that I can get into. Needless to say it's hurt my talk radio viewership. :rofl: I did slightly upgrade the rear hatch speakers as well, but I don't think those really have anything to do with bass. I am very happy with the system as it sits overall now.
I don't know how good the brand is or if I even got a good deal, but after running this setup (including the two upgraded rear hatch replacements) for over 2 years, I can tell you I am really happy.
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I don't know how good the brand is or if I even got a good deal, but after running this setup (including the two upgraded rear hatch replacements) for over 2 years, I can tell you I am really happy.
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From the photos, the speakers appear to be the same diameter. So I looked up the factory 2013 LC sub diameter. On MUD and Crutchfield it seems like the factory is 8". My receipt above appears like I paid for a 10" so I was concerned and/or confused. I looked up the Triton part number at least as it appears on my receipt and sure enough, it should be a 10". :hmm:
 
From the photos, the speakers appear to be the same diameter. So I looked up the factory 2013 LC sub diameter. On MUD and Crutchfield it seems like the factory is 8". My receipt above appears like I paid for a 10" so I was concerned and/or confused. I looked up the Triton part number at least as it appears on my receipt and sure enough, it should be a 10". :hmm:
After further investigation on the Triton website and with the installer, I've discovered that the receipt is almost worthless for record keeping details other than the price I paid. Apparently because the deeper magnet fit after all, we went with that and just didn't update ppwk. The installer is also confident it's a 10". So I still want to look at the old sub diameter we pulled since I think I still have it somewhere.
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After further investigation on the Triton website and with the installer, I've discovered that the receipt is almost worthless for record keeping details other than the price I paid. Apparently because the deeper magnet fit after all, we went with that and just didn't update ppwk. The installer is also confident it's a 10". So I still want to look at the old sub diameter we pulled since I think I still have it somewhere.
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If you have an LC the sub was an 8", if you have an LX the sub was a 10".

I can also tell you the specs on the sheet in your last post are not for the speaker in the picture. That speaker is a dual voice coil. You can tell by the two sets of input posts.

Also, based on the surface area of the cone in the pic vs the spec sheet, I would say that was likely an 8" that they installed.
 
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It was a nice snowy day so figured I would tear everything out and install the new sub.
Had to pull out the fridge and slide, then move the false floor which has the amp rack attached.
The few tests I was able to do (before the battery dropped too low) sounded pretty good. I think this sub is the limit of what that little box can handle. So much better than the 8" JL it replaced.

(Fridge with table and amp rack to the left)
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(Back of fridge)
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(Back of amp rack)
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(False floor)
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Sub install cont...

(Sub removed)
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(Comparison of subs)

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Was concerned the surround would hit the panel as I have never seen one that high above the mounting surface.

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(View of the inside of an LX sub box)

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I had to clearance a bit of the top of the box. Turns out those channels are fairly thin. Managed to clearance a hole right through it.
I siliconed a christmas tree panel plug into it. Should hold OK.
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Sub Install cont...

(Side by side of the two subs)
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(Sub installed)
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I redrilled the ring to fit the mounting holes of the box. I don't think that plastic would hold up to the weight of this sub.

Here is a quick vid of the initial sound test. The camera couldn't keep up so it looks like the cone is bending.

 
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Bubbling this back up. Sub in my new-to-me 2010 LX is blown. I was happy with the sound in my '09 LX, and just want a plug'n'play option to make the rattle go away. Read all 12 pages, and I don't think I've found a plug'n'play option that doesn't require another amp -- does such a thing exist?

Bringing this back up because I have a blown sub in my 09 LX570 and am looking for a replacement that doesn't require any modifying of the enclosure.
 
Bringing this back up because I have a blown sub in my 09 LX570 and am looking for a replacement that doesn't require any modifying of the enclosure.
Buy the JL audio 10tw3.. Get an audiocontrol full featured amp.

Any customization is just a mounting ring on the box and a stereo shop will charge you an hour plus materials for that.
 
Complete ignorance here, a buddy is selling his Audison AP1 D and Evo 2410 D4 sub/amp setup, workable solution given the stock box and wiring considerations? I’m in a “don’t know what I don’t know” scenario where it’s a good price but no,idea if it’s even a workable idea for the vehicle.
 
Complete ignorance here, a buddy is selling his Audison AP1 D and Evo 2410 D4 sub/amp setup, workable solution given the stock box and wiring considerations? I’m in a “don’t know what I don’t know” scenario where it’s a good price but no,idea if it’s even a workable idea for the vehicle.
Use the model numbers you mention and “ih8mud” in a Google search and you may find an answer.
 
Use the model numbers you mention and “ih8mud” in a Google search and you may find an answer.
I understand “just google it” is a default answer, but having tried that, the challenge is that this is really the only thread I can find related to sub upgrade. modifications of the stereo are much less frequently discussed than maintenance or wheeling threads, it isn’t a popular discussion point so better to ask in a topical thread than starting a new one all together.

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Complete ignorance here, a buddy is selling his Audison AP1 D and Evo 2410 D4 sub/amp setup, workable solution given the stock box and wiring considerations? I’m in a “don’t know what I don’t know” scenario where it’s a good price but no,idea if it’s even a workable idea for the vehicle.
It will work. Depending on the price you are getting you would be better off with an amp like this AudioControl ACX-300.1 | 300W ACX Series Monoblock Marine Amplifier - https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-178435-AudioControl-ACX-300.1.html as it has digital processing which will help restore the bass signal.
You buddies system will only amplify the signal and as the stock system lowers the bass as the music gets louder, this system will do the same. If you add a remote volume control to his amp it may help some as well.
 
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It will work. Depending on the price you are getting you would be better off with an amp like this AudioControl ACX-300.1 | 300W ACX Series Monoblock Marine Amplifier - https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-178435-AudioControl-ACX-300.1.html as it has digital processing which will help restore the bass signal.
You buddies system will only amplify the signal and as the stock system lowers the bass as the music gets lounder, this system will do the same. If you add a remote volume control to his amp it may help some as well.
Thanks man!
 

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