Cold weather. Got me thinking. I used to run mineral oil, but - no longer listening to the whole, don't do synth for the leaks. A rubbish burn-drum has been filled with all kinds of cheap information! But, the oil goes to the recycling.
For as long as I can remember, folks used to espouse the 2F as a better oiling path. Like who are the people who knew that, and why did they broadcast such information? What was in it for them? Did Toyota start the rumor? Who are the objective-types who make up this crap? Apparently, by-pass oil filtering (like F) is the way to go.
And let's just start this discussion by asking what is the pressure for opening the anti-drain/by-pass flap in your favorite filter? What is the volume that can be run thru a filter media at cold-start winter conditions (volume/time)? Crickets.
I still can't figure out why there are no big pieces in the filter when I cut it open, but, there are chunks bled from the pan. Maybe when the cold weather allows the oil filter to run bypass, it dislodges the big debris from the filter and exits thru the by-pass flap? Maybe oil filters are an outright automotive scam, like balancing tires to account for the imperfect wheel mounting - flip the wheel on the balancer 90 or 180 degrees and you get a slightly different set of weights to place because it was only close to being centered and that makes a huge difference. The Society of Automotive Engineers article came out in the 90's, but no foil-hat do I wear. I could totally see the experiment, original factory filter engine with specified-interval oil changes but, no filter change, vs an engine that goes thru a variety of filters, and oil changes at normal-people's-schedule. Which one will last longer?
Could the smaller Toyota updated part number oil filter can fulfill factory engineering specs for psi of by-pass valve opening, but, it can't deal with the volume of oil needed to run thru the filter, or the other way around? I'm going to see if an AC Delco PFL400A filter can provide better oil pressure than the tiny 1/2-pint Toyota updated part number filter. Bring it up to temp, then change the filter. The analog needle on the factory instrument cluster is so appreciated right now.
The F oil set-up is a great design. By branching the oil plumbing for two functions, filtering and lubrication, the pressure can be dedicated for each function. The benefit is at less than optimal winter operating temperatures, or having a clogged filter. I also imagine that lower pressure filtering would make for easier filter element engineering. Like hello, you don't need to filter cold oil when you can barely compress it thru the rocker assembly. But, that is how most engines are set-up these days? The same oil filter installed in the F will not be exposed to the direct and higher pressure of the 2F oiling (assuming the oil pumps are the same), and could minimize ever opening the filter's internal bypass valve (expelling material caught but not stuck in filter element?). Also, the cold-start oil pressure in the F can be greater because it doen't have to be compatible with running cold oil thru the filter media/bypass valve.
For as long as I can remember, folks used to espouse the 2F as a better oiling path. Like who are the people who knew that, and why did they broadcast such information? What was in it for them? Did Toyota start the rumor? Who are the objective-types who make up this crap? Apparently, by-pass oil filtering (like F) is the way to go.
And let's just start this discussion by asking what is the pressure for opening the anti-drain/by-pass flap in your favorite filter? What is the volume that can be run thru a filter media at cold-start winter conditions (volume/time)? Crickets.
I still can't figure out why there are no big pieces in the filter when I cut it open, but, there are chunks bled from the pan. Maybe when the cold weather allows the oil filter to run bypass, it dislodges the big debris from the filter and exits thru the by-pass flap? Maybe oil filters are an outright automotive scam, like balancing tires to account for the imperfect wheel mounting - flip the wheel on the balancer 90 or 180 degrees and you get a slightly different set of weights to place because it was only close to being centered and that makes a huge difference. The Society of Automotive Engineers article came out in the 90's, but no foil-hat do I wear. I could totally see the experiment, original factory filter engine with specified-interval oil changes but, no filter change, vs an engine that goes thru a variety of filters, and oil changes at normal-people's-schedule. Which one will last longer?
Could the smaller Toyota updated part number oil filter can fulfill factory engineering specs for psi of by-pass valve opening, but, it can't deal with the volume of oil needed to run thru the filter, or the other way around? I'm going to see if an AC Delco PFL400A filter can provide better oil pressure than the tiny 1/2-pint Toyota updated part number filter. Bring it up to temp, then change the filter. The analog needle on the factory instrument cluster is so appreciated right now.
The F oil set-up is a great design. By branching the oil plumbing for two functions, filtering and lubrication, the pressure can be dedicated for each function. The benefit is at less than optimal winter operating temperatures, or having a clogged filter. I also imagine that lower pressure filtering would make for easier filter element engineering. Like hello, you don't need to filter cold oil when you can barely compress it thru the rocker assembly. But, that is how most engines are set-up these days? The same oil filter installed in the F will not be exposed to the direct and higher pressure of the 2F oiling (assuming the oil pumps are the same), and could minimize ever opening the filter's internal bypass valve (expelling material caught but not stuck in filter element?). Also, the cold-start oil pressure in the F can be greater because it doen't have to be compatible with running cold oil thru the filter media/bypass valve.