F, 2F valve adjustment (1 Viewer)

[PabloCruise]

Since the hot clearances will be the narrowest, and therefore the most important, there's no real reason to check cold clearances (what would you do with the info?) after setting them hot.

What would I do with the info? Use it to check my valve lash cold next time they are due!

It has been awhile since I set my 2F, so the plan is to set em hot and then leave everything off and check em cold. If all goes as planned I will report back the cold measurements.

 

[Output Shaft]

The difference between hot and cold valve lash is firm drag (H) or slight drag (C).

 

[PabloCruise]

The difference between hot and cold valve lash is firm drag (H) or slight drag (C).

That about sums it up, a little less drag on the .008 Intake and .014 Exhaust feeler gauges

 

[PabloCruise]

That about sums it up, a little less drag on the .008 Intake and .014 Exhaust feeler gauges

I will say this, it was a lot nicer working on a room temp engine...

 

[sggoat]

Not that big of a deal to do when the engine is idling, you have not ever ran your F/2F/3FE with out the rocker cover on?


You do not get an oil bath.








Adjust the valves with the engine static at operating temperature to the specified clearances in the FSM.


Pretty simple, have been doing them that way for years.

X-2 on the oil spash--there is none-more of an ooze. But adjusting static might get your valves too tight-given the human variability of poking the feeler gauge in there--they might even be open a smidgen when the piston comes up for compression--you have a small risk of a burnt valve here after a while--if you do this static, let 'em run loose a couple of thousands if anything--it will not affect compression, and it will not affect wear--just give you a little clattter at cold(and maybe a little hot)--just my .02

 

[sggoat]

What would I do with the info? Use it to check my valve lash cold next time they are due!

It has been awhile since I set my 2F, so the plan is to set em hot and then leave everything off and check em cold. If all goes as planned I will report back the cold measurements.

Cold measurements would seem to me to be irrelevant. You don't(nor does the engine) care about what the adjustments are when it's cold and sitting in the driveway. What is important are the clearances when the engine is at operating temp and running-therefore-that's when they should be adjusted(all engines are different,as is the environment they are in)--cold measurements are dubious at best, and possibly detrimental at worst--I think set them hot and running--

 

[Output Shaft]

But adjusting static might get your valves too tight

The 3F and the 3FE FSMs recommended checking valve lash at TDC with the engine hot and off. The 2F FSM recommended that the lash be checked while the engine is idling. The valve trains on all those heads are virtually identical.

Therefore it can deduced that the valve adjustment methods detailed in the FSMs were recommendations, not commandments and either method is fine.

3F

3FE

 

[sggoat]

The 3F and the 3FE FSMs recommended checking valve lash at TDC with the engine hot and off. The 2F FSM recommended that the lash be checked while the engine is idling. The valve trains on all those heads are virtually identical.

Therefore it can deduced that the valve adjustment methods detailed in the FSMs were recommendations, not commandments and either method is fine.

3F
View attachment 1274059

3FE
View attachment 1274060

That may be, but ~15 mins after shutdown, the engine metal will cool and start to contract, thus shrinking the cam lobes, shortening the push rods, shortening the valve stems, etc. The feeler gauge readings will change--I know I may be splitting hairs here, and the half-hair I'm speaking of may not mean much to the engine-- I grew up adjusting valves on a running engine, so I can't understand why it would be done any other way--maybe I spent too much time under the"Shade Tree"--ha!

 

[honk]

I think Pablo's idea of setting them hot first and then checking and recording the the resulting cold clearances after the engine has cooled so that in the future those cold results can be set and expected to be correct hot clearances has some merit, so long as the ambient temperature is the same each time the valves are readjusted cold.

For me it might be too much figurin'...

 

[Nottajeep]

there is a cold spec on the 60's forum. I used it and it worked very well at 60F ambient.

 

[Godwin]

The 3F and the 3FE FSMs recommended checking valve lash at TDC with the engine hot and off. The 2F FSM recommended that the lash be checked while the engine is idling. The valve trains on all those heads are virtually identical.

Therefore it can deduced that the valve adjustment methods detailed in the FSMs were recommendations, not commandments and either method is fine.

Just to add to this, the 3FE valves on the 3FE must be done with the engine off. To access the valve train EFI components necessary for the engine to operate must be removed.

 

[Steamer]

Although it doesn't get very cold in Miami, on my F.5 I've found the difference between adjusting hot & cold to be barely detectable if at all.
I do wish however that the adjusting screws had a finer thread as I think it would help getting them zeroed in. When I get one adjusted just right and go to tighten the lock nut, I sometimes can't hold back the screw from turning in with the nut. So I go again and loosen the screw a tad predicting the nut to turn it in and then the screw doesn't move. So it's often a back and forth trying to hit it just right. I think a finer thread would help with this.

 

[PabloCruise]

there is a cold spec on the 60's forum. I used it and it worked very well at 60F ambient.

This one? Valve adjustment interval?

And this one: 2F/3F hot/cold valve set

 

[brian]

yeah but its kinda hypnotic to watch them run topless.

 

[honk]

I love watching them run topless.....unless I see that one or more of them isn't jiggling. (no, a flat cam)

 

[Steamer]

Nice video. I always wished I could capture on film the oil running down the push rods. When the lighting is right and as the push rods rotate, the oil runs down in a spiral fashion. Would go good with music too.

 

[Tysano]

this is a topic that seems to have lots of clouds around it. I follow your point on doing it hot, as it will be the same or very close all around the world.

I would suspect that the clearences would be larger the colder it gets.
I would still like to know how you adjust valves with the engine running, seems you would be bending your feeler gauges and getting sprayed with hot oil.

I wish someone could put these rumors to rest and give a clear cut method to adjust the valves on these engines.

You can adjust the valves with the motor running, but it is a p.i.t.a., the oiling systems don't spray oil anywhere it's a closed system, of sorts.
All that being said, I have found that the simplest way to adjust the valves is, warm up the motor to operating temperature, turn the motor off, and adjust the valves.

 

[Tysano]

I will put all the rumors to rest: All of the methods of adjusting valves work. Some are easier and faster than others, but they give the same result. Take your pick. It is not rocket science.

Amen to that brother, that's why we drive land cruisers, and not rockets.

 

[Tysano]

Dang, I hope someday I'm eligible!

I don't know about that, might want to be careful what you wish for. Lol.