F, 2F valve adjustment (1 Viewer)

[brider]

I did a search and read a lengthy thread that covered almost every aspect of valve adjustment. The consensus was that adjusting while running hot was best.

Mine is idling rougher than it should, although the vacuum guage is ALMOST steady at 22 in Hg at idle. I suspect tight valves.

I've done it both ways, running and static hot, but I never had the presence of mind to measure COLD after I'm satisfied that they are adjusted HOT.

Seems to me that the reason for adjusting hot is so the FSM can provide a spec that applies to everyone everywhere, whereas a cold spec will be different between those in Saudi Arabia in summer and those in Frostbite Falls, Minn in winter.

So for the benefit of those in similar geographical regions, has ANYBODY measured cold clearances after getting the hot clearance dialed in?

 

[PurpleFJ62]

this is a topic that seems to have lots of clouds around it. I follow your point on doing it hot, as it will be the same or very close all around the world.

I would suspect that the clearences would be larger the colder it gets.
I would still like to know how you adjust valves with the engine running, seems you would be bending your feeler gauges and getting sprayed with hot oil.

I wish someone could put these rumors to rest and give a clear cut method to adjust the valves on these engines.

 

[brider]

Well, l,ike I said, I did a search and found a thread near the top of the list that discussed this ad nauseum, EXCEPT for adjusting cold. So if you're interested in the subject in general, do a search and read on.

 

[IDave]

Since the hot clearances will be the narrowest, and therefore the most important, there's no real reason to check cold clearances (what would you do with the info?) after setting them hot.

The manual states to set the clearances (same numbers) cold when reassembling the engine, so you do do it then, readjusting hot afterwards.

Worn cam lobes result in difficulties with setting proper clearances. For instance, the correct clearance on a lobe that is worn down 50% will result in the valve not opening fully, and not as long as it should. Think about it. It won't ever run perfectly if that's the case.



F engines don't have much oil pressure up top. The oil dribbles, and doesn't spray. Yes, eventually the feeler gauge gets mashed a little if you check clearances with the engine running, but not much unless you have the clearances too narrow to start with....right?

 

[Poser]

I would still like to know how you adjust valves with the engine running, seems you would be bending your feeler gauges and getting sprayed with hot oil.

Not that big of a deal to do when the engine is idling, you have not ever ran your F/2F/3FE with out the rocker cover on?


You do not get an oil bath.

I wish someone could put these rumors to rest and give a clear cut method to adjust the valves on these engines.

Adjust the valves with the engine static at operating temperature to the specified clearances in the FSM.


Pretty simple, have been doing them that way for years.

 

[breckbone]

Not that big of a deal to do when the engine is idling

I'm still pretty new to adjusting valves and have only done it w/a warmed up, but off engine. How difficult is it to use the feeler gauge while the engine is running? It seems to this newb that it would be hard to get an accurate feel for the friction...thanks in advance for setting me straight!


B-

 

[PurpleFJ62]

i have never done it with my 3FE running, there are many problems trying to do that because you have to have the intake plumbing hooked up otherwise the computer will go nuts. The plumbing goes right over the rocker cover. It would be possible to work around it, but pretty hard.

I think ill stick to valve adjustments while the engine is hot but not running. shouldent be a problem?

 

[Pin_Head]

I wish someone could put these rumors to rest and give a clear cut method to adjust the valves on these engines.

I will put all the rumors to rest: All of the methods of adjusting valves work. Some are easier and faster than others, but they give the same result. Take your pick. It is not rocket science.

 

[IDave]

I will put all the rumors to rest: All of the methods of adjusting valves work. Some are easier and faster than others, but they give the same result. Take your pick. It is not rocket science.

This is what I did: first time out, I checked and adjusted the slow way: engine warmed up and stopped. Turn the crank/cam, do each valve until satisfied.

Then, run the engine. You know the gaps/lashes are correct. Run up and down the valves checking them one at a time. Guess what?: now you know how it should feel with the engine running.

Next time, you don't have to stop the engine.

 

[laguna80]

It's kinda funny, I had been trying to adjust my valves and such with the engine running. I guess they were too tight though because they smashed the crap out of the feeler gauge. Oil was getting everywhere too. It wasn't dribbling out for me but kind of pulsating out because the tube was vibrating so much. It ended up getting on my coil where the distributor wire attaches and when I was driving that came off and stopped me dead. I guess it wasn't that funny after all, but oh well, thanks for reading.
I find it much easier to check and adjust with the engine off.

 

[Pin_Head]

I prefer to check them with the engine running. If I find any that are out of spec, I stop the engine and ajust them and start it up and check it again just to make sure. It takes about 1 minute to check all 16 valves.

 

[IDave]

I prefer to check them with the engine running. If I find any that are out of spec, I stop the engine and ajust them and start it up and check it again just to make sure. It takes about 1 minute to check all 16 valves.

I only have 12 valves on my F engine. What am I missing?

 

[Pin_Head]

I have the special optional F straight 8 that was available only to cool people or people with Azlheimer's disease.

 

[IDave]

I have the special optional F straight 8 that was available only to cool people or people with Azlheimer's disease.

Dang, I hope someday I'm eligible!

 

[D'Animal]

Set them cold to .008 intake and .014 exhaust after a rebuild or head replacement.

Run the rig no more than 1,000 miles and reset them while the engine is hot or at operating temperature.

If you are doing it as PM and it has not been done in awhile you may want to run a can of seafoam through it to decarbon the combustion chamber first.

 

[Orionfj60]

Hey guys
I just did a rebuild and my fsm says to set it at .20 in and .35 ex am I missing something? It sounds like the rocker arms are loose on the valves compaired to it before the rebuild. I set it cold stabbed the engine put on the pulleys etc. I let I run for about 20 min the first day then another the next then set it running. I just want to make sure I did it right it's a 2f.

 

[Orionfj60]

Hmmm i set it too loose have to get some new feelers

 

[subzali]

.008 inches = .20 mm
.014 inches = .35 mm

Approximately.

 

[twoturtlesracing]

I have the special optional F straight 8 that was available only to cool people or people with Azlheimer's disease.

That's funny!

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Dang, I hope someday I'm eligible!

For being special or the alzheimers?