Extended Sway Bar Links (3 Viewers)

[2001LC]

Incase you cannot picture it, the links hit here when steering.

View attachment 2476528

Curious to see as well Paul. I'm at 22.75" up front, diff drop and UCAs on mine and will look to see if I have any hitting marks in the morning and report back as well.

@Hulsty what lift height are you running. Looks like a stock shock up front. Hub to fender measure?

J

I see no interference with Extended Links and possible interference with flex brake line and or line bracket.


I install a set of TT extended links along with all new stabilizer bars and all bushing, this week. On a 07LX no/AHC, OME 2.5 lift, SPC UCA & adjustable UBJ, Slee belly pan and diff drop.

Inspected for interference:
While on jack stands and wheel hubs dropping free (no tires): Links did not interfere.
Wheels on rig on ground w/full weight: No interference.
This was with wheel straight and full turn to locks.

I do not see, brake flex line at risk of contact with links. For them to even touch, they need to be forced to do so. Even if they do, I can't see risk damage to the lines.

Link, more than 3" away to rear of brake line & bracket at all times.

Full turn, more than 3" away

Full turn, more than 3" away.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I see no interference with Extended Links and possible interference with flex brake line and or line bracket.

Thanks P, I looked on mine and several others did as well. A 98, 99, 00, 03, 04. 05 and your 07, no issues. Thank you again.

Jason

 

[Hulsty]

Some more photos and details of the interference I am having, all stock arms, EFS XTR shocks and on the weekend I fitted different bump stops. In the photos where you see it hitting, I am still not at full steering lock, at ride height no problem, but droop is a problem. I have already trimmed the bolt and bent the brackets for additional clearance, but still hits.

 

[2001LC]

Wow that is extreme drop. You may be better off with stock links. Then disconnect them on the trials.
I've never seen the AHC bracket make contact with frame.

 

[abuck99]

For all that to make contact your wheel would have to be at full droop- wheel in the air and turned close to lock right? I think the problem is that you have stock control arms with lift and extended travel shocks, and when at full droop the knuckle is at a rearward angle then you get the contact with the bracket. With an aftermarket UCA, it would correct that clearance (and your caster) and I doubt you would see contact. In the absence of spending more $$ on aftermarket UCA's maybe go back to standard length sway links.

 

[l3n0x]

Show us a picture of the sway bar mounts on the chassis. (the ones that tends to rust away on the passenger side)

 

[Dmonies]

What are the torque specs in ft-lbs? The oems are 18 top nut and 38 for the bottom but when I tighten this thing to 18 the rubber bushing looks insanely squished. Am I supposed to go less? The link's threads go all the way.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

What are the torque specs in ft-lbs? The oems are 18 top nut and 38 for the bottom but when I tighten this thing to 18 the rubber bushing looks insanely squished. Am I supposed to go less? The link's threads go all the way.

It is a nylock nut.

4-6 threads showing is plenty good.

 

[Mike NXP]

Hey, looking for some advice on getting my 100 to not feel so, as @2001LC put it, "boaty" It doesn't inspire much confidence at higher speeds fully loaded.


Steering / suspension info
- Front shocks are fairly new OEM with all new rubber bits
- OEM torsion bars turned up just a little to accommodate aftermarket bumper weight...hub to fender measurement is about 20.5" up front
- OEM sway bar cushions and links but they are going on 60k miles

- Rear is set up with Dobinsons coils + shocks to handle the extra weight I carry when camping. hub to fender measurement is a bit high at 22-23 so depending on the weight I have a bit too much rake.

- New OEM steering rack, tie rods installed recently.

- KO2s running at about 42-50 psi depending on weight. Not many miles on them.


I've had the near rear suspension set up for about 2 years.


Symptoms
- The vehicle doesn't feel as stiff as it should, for example when driving at higher speeds it just has a bit of roll before it goes where I want it too. It doesn't feel dangerous but it doesn't make the driving experience any easier.



Possible fixes
- I think I need to install trail tailor extended sway links in the rear?
-I really don't know how to tell if my rear control arms are worn but I'm done replacing parts that aren't visibly ****ed.

- I have a bit of wiggle in my steering wheel where nothing happens. So at highway speed I can sorta wiggle idk, 2-5 degrees of dead space. I had Toyota check all of this over when doing the steering rack and of course they said it's all fine because they don't want to deal with it.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Hey, looking for some advice on getting my 100 to not feel so, as @2001LC put it, "boaty" It doesn't inspire much confidence at higher speeds fully loaded.


Steering / suspension info
- Front shocks are fairly new OEM with all new rubber bits
- OEM torsion bars turned up just a little to accommodate aftermarket bumper weight...hub to fender measurement is about 20.5" up front
- OEM sway bar cushions and links but they are going on 60k miles

- Rear is set up with Dobinsons coils + shocks to handle the extra weight I carry when camping. hub to fender measurement is a bit high at 22-23 so depending on the weight I have a bit too much rake.

- New OEM steering rack, tie rods installed recently.

- KO2s running at about 42-50 psi depending on weight. Not many miles on them.


I've had the near rear suspension set up for about 2 years.


Symptoms
- The vehicle doesn't feel as stiff as it should, for example when driving at higher speeds it just has a bit of roll before it goes where I want it too. It doesn't feel dangerous but it doesn't make the driving experience any easier.



Possible fixes
- I think I need to install trail tailor extended sway links in the rear?
-I really don't know how to tell if my rear control arms are worn but I'm done replacing parts that aren't visibly f***ed.

- I have a bit of wiggle in my steering wheel where nothing happens. So at highway speed I can sorta wiggle idk, 2-5 degrees of dead space. I had Toyota check all of this over when doing the steering rack and of course they said it's all fine because they don't want to deal with it.

When I had these symptoms, it was my bushings in the rear end (control arms and panhard). I'd start there.

What coils and length shocks are you running in the back?
What size tires are you running? in my experience, sometimes wider tracks and pulls weird.

 

[Mike NXP]

When I had these symptoms, it was my bushings in the rear end (control arms and panhard). I'd start there.

What coils and length shocks are you running in the back?
What size tires are you running? in my experience, sometimes wider tracks and pulls weird.

Thanks for the tips.

- Yeah I was thinking about ordering the rear control arms but I'm not sure I can handle the install on my own. Visually I can sort of see the bushings cracking.

- Coil and Shock info below. Not sure the size but after adding up the weight of my bumper, jerry cans, swing out tire, etc. These coils appeared to be the right choice. They do sit a lot higher than I'd like but other than the boat feel and semi stink bug look, there is no big negative effect.

• C59-185 – 1.5″ lift, linear rate, with 440LBS constant rear weight

- I stick to stock / OEM for almost everything . The KO2s are LT265/75R16 and have very little wear. Old tires were coopers, they pulled hard. Before that KO2s again.



I think I'll start with extended rear links and start researching the control arm replacement. I just hate throwing parts at this truck chasing a smoother ride and never getting it. I maybe should just make my peace with the fact that it's a big heavy old truck

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Thanks for the tips.

- Yeah I was thinking about ordering the rear control arms but I'm not sure I can handle the install on my own. Visually I can sort of see the bushings cracking.

- Coil and Shock info below. Not sure the size but after adding up the weight of my bumper, jerry cans, swing out tire, etc. These coils appeared to be the right choice. They do sit a lot higher than I'd like but other than the boat feel and semi stink bug look, there is no big negative effect.
View attachment 3391337



- I stick to stock / OEM for almost everything . The KO2s are LT265/75R16 and have very little wear. Old tires were coopers, they pulled hard. Before that KO2s again.



I think I'll start with extended rear links and start researching the control arm replacement. I just hate throwing parts at this truck chasing a smoother ride and never getting it. I maybe should just make my peace with the fact that it's a big heavy old truck

Scratch tires off the list, doubt that's got anything to contribute.

If you are just doing the arm replacement, it's fairly straightforward... I've done a few sets with the vehicle on the ground, just pull one at a time. If you are extra concerned, chalk each tire front and rear. Tool wise, have a couple lady's foot pry bars, a mallet, and a ratchet strap or two to pull the axle around if the holes don't line up.

 

[Mike NXP]

Scratch tires off the list, doubt that's got anything to contribute.

If you are just doing the arm replacement, it's fairly straightforward... I've done a few sets with the vehicle on the ground, just pull one at a time. If you are extra concerned, chalk each tire front and rear. Tool wise, have a couple lady's foot pry bars, a mallet, and a ratchet strap or two to pull the axle around if the holes don't line up.

Good advice, thanks. I just ordered the rear extended links and will start researching the rear control arms.

I heard sometimes getting the bolt to back out past the coil can be an issue. I suppose just adjusting vehicle weight would help with that.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Good advice, thanks. I just ordered the rear extended links and will start researching the rear control arms.

I heard sometimes getting the bolt to back out past the coil can be an issue. I suppose just adjusting vehicle weight would help with that.

it can be, you can lift one side of the truck and that seems to help. Never been a show stopper for me and I am one seriously unlucky dude

 

[Mike NXP]

it can be, you can lift one side of the truck and that seems to help. Never been a show stopper for me and I am one seriously unlucky dude

OK good to know, I try to avoid going under jack stands in my gravel driveway. Kind of sketchy without the right equipment so it's good to know it can be done on the ground.


For rear control arms would you go with the poly adjustable style of Trail tailor or OEM?

I maybe should go for the adjustable with all that lift in the rear but I really don't want to start ****ing with drive angles and making this worse.


PS- the coil specs I have are below. I think it added way more than 1.5" lift even with that 400+ payload.

• C59-185 – 1.5″ lift, linear rate, with 440LBS constant rear weight

 

[Somebodyelse5]

OK good to know, I try to avoid going under jack stands in my gravel driveway. Kind of sketchy without the right equipment so it's good to know it can be done on the ground.


For rear control arms would you go with the poly adjustable style of Trail tailor or OEM?

I maybe should go for the adjustable with all that lift in the rear but I really don't want to start f***ing with drive angles and making this worse.


PS- the coil specs I have are below. I think it added way more than 1.5" lift even with that 400+ payload.

• C59-185 – 1.5″ lift, linear rate, with 440LBS constant rear weight

I wouldn't touch anything Trail Tailor, too many customer service issues and their adjustable links seem to use the wrong thread class and consistently come lose. @geanes has had a lot of issues with them. They may have corrected this over the past few years, but I got blocked after I voiced a negative opinion, so I wouldn't know.

I don't believe you need adjustable (the lift on a 100 isn't really big enough to really hurt the pinion angle or shorten the wheel base much) and all the adjustable links I've installed on 100's were always just set to factory length. The metal tech adjustable uppers I've used have been solid, but I don't think they are necessary. I would avoid poly, it's noisy and harsh... today I would probably go with factory uppers, and spc lowers from slee:

SPC Rear Lower HD Arms with flex joint - 98-07 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road

SPC Rear Lower HD Arms with flex joint - 98-07 Land Cruiser

sleeoffroad.com

 

[Mike NXP]

I wouldn't touch anything Trail Tailor, too many customer service issues and their adjustable links seem to use the wrong thread class and consistently come lose. @geanes has had a lot of issues with them. They may have corrected this over the past few years, but I got blocked after I voiced a negative opinion, so I wouldn't know.

I don't believe you need adjustable, and all the adjustable links I've installed on 100's were always just set to factory length. The metal tech adjustable uppers I've used have been solid, but I don't think they are necessary. I would avoid poly, it's noisy and harsh... today I would probably go with factory uppers, and spc lowers from slee:

SPC Rear Lower HD Arms with flex joint - 98-07 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road

SPC Rear Lower HD Arms with flex joint - 98-07 Land Cruiser

sleeoffroad.com

Good info, yeah I've also seen similar feedback.

I wonder if he will ever ship the extended links I just bought.
>> Are there other options available for extended rear links?


Figured I'd start there and start filling the piggy bank for new arms.
>> What's your though on SPC lowers VS OEM, are they a bit more beefy?

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Good info, yeah I've also seen similar feedback.

I wonder if he will ever ship the extended links I just bought.
>> Are there other options available for extended rear links?


Figured I'd start there and start filling the piggy bank for new arms.
>> What's your though on SPC lowers VS OEM, are they a bit more beefy?

I've even seen those TT extended links fail. I don't believe it makes enough difference to stress over... but that's my unpopular opinion. I know some swear it made a huge difference, so, pick your poison.

Personally, I would go with a beefier lower... it's worth it in terms of price (at least it used to be a wash between factory replacement or beefier aftermarket) and as long as you stick with rubber bushings (I think slee used to offer their own, with OEM bushings), you won't have an issue with ride. Folks who push these on the trail will often times bend those rear lower links if you drag them.

 

[Mike NXP]

I've even seen those TT extended links fail. I don't believe it makes enough difference to stress over... but that's my unpopular opinion. I know some swear it made a huge difference, so, pick your poison.

Personally, I would go with a beefier lower... it's worth it in terms of price (at least it used to be a wash between factory replacement or beefier aftermarket) and as long as you stick with rubber bushings (I think slee used to offer their own, with OEM bushings), you won't have an issue with ride. Folks who push these on the trail will often times bend those rear lower links if you drag them.

Right right... Well I figure I'll gamble the 100 bucks. I don't rock crawl or anything but I do spend a lot of time off road. I've got to imagine they will be better than my originals with 230k miles on em'


Thanks again on lower control arm advice.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Right right... Well I figure I'll gamble the 100 bucks. I don't rock crawl or anything but I do spend a lot of time off road. I've got to imagine they will be better than my originals with 230k miles on em'


Thanks again on lower control arm advice.

I don't think that's bad at all I'm not up to date one what the prices look like right now, it's been a while since I was control arm shopping