extended range tank for cheap - mud co-op

[High Desert]

I'd like to do up a custom gauge cluster with all Autometer gauges, but at this point it wouldn't be a wise move with my money, and with the amount f work I'd need to do to make it look stock.

Replacing gauges is cool and good info for future projects( I for one do not want to go into the dash untill I have too).

However, if this is going to be on-the-cheap, then trying to stick with stock would seem pretty reasonable. If not really needed, every non stock step equals more time and money spent. You start creeping up to that $850 mark and you might as well buy a commercial aftermarket long range that just switches stock parts and plugs in. maybe Hold the other upgrades and changes for later? Or at least list that seperate in the final draft if it is not needed to do the initial tank job. Stick to task and all that rot..

HD

 

[calfj60]

I don't think Jim is running any aftermarket gauges....I am because I have already done the swap to autometer cause of my engine swap....

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I have one concern regarding bending a length of pipe to span the gap between the tank fill and the stock fill location. Wouldn't a section of regular exhaust pipe rust eventually in a fuel tank situation? Maybe I missed you guys covering this, but should you use some type of stainless metal to make the neck instead of a metal that has the potential to rust?

The only reason why I'm asking is because I have noticed that most new(er) vehicles have rubber or synthetic fuel necks. Would that be safer?

 

[High Desert]

I don't think Jim is running any aftermarket gauges....I am because I have already done the swap to autometer cause of my engine swap....

Cool, on the guages, I'd swap it all out if I did the 350 engine swap.

ON the filler neck, We gotta hope the bend and extra "reach" needed does not cause restriction when filling, particularly for you folks in states with the weird fuel nozzles. Could cause serious "kickback" if pumped to fast...

I know this is a wait and see thing, just thinking at the key board..

 

[FJ40Jim]

I have one concern regarding bending a length of pipe to span the gap between the tank fill and the stock fill location. Wouldn't a section of regular exhaust pipe rust eventually in a fuel tank situation? Maybe I missed you guys covering this, but should you use some type of stainless metal to make the neck instead of a metal that has the potential to rust?

The only reason why I'm asking is because I have noticed that most new(er) vehicles have rubber or synthetic fuel necks. Would that be safer?

The factory fill neck is made of exhaust pipe.

Yes, the S-pipe can rust through eventually. But the stock neck has a 20 year headstart on rusting out, so a new piece of pipe is not a concern.

 

[calfj60]

as for the piece of tube to be bent...any chance you could trace that out on say a piece of cardboard so we could see the outline???? That would be easier when it comes time to get an exhaust shop to bend it up for the rest of us...

 

[Front Range 4x4]

as for the piece of tube to be bent...any chance you could trace that out on say a piece of cardboard so we could see the outline???? That would be easier when it comes time to get an exhaust shop to bend it up for the rest of us...

Or some enterprising person could have a dozen bent up and sell to the rest of us

 

[calfj60]

I would gladly do it or gladly pay to have it done.....especially if I had a template of the one that worked....Great idea....

 

[FJ40Jim]

as for the piece of tube to be bent...any chance you could trace that out on say a piece of cardboard so we could see the outline???? That would be easier when it comes time to get an exhaust shop to bend it up for the rest of us...

Yes, definitely will do that.

FWIW, I like to start a bending project like this w/ a piece of steel brakeline or similar. Bend the brakeline by hand to the centerline shape of the desired tailpipe/fillneck/header connector. Go to exh shop and say "Make this in 2" pipe, please."

Your idea of a cardboard template should work fine because the piece in question should be 2 dimensional.

 

[srplus]

Oz - Help Needed

when searching for extended range tanks on the net to supplement this info i found the following site in OZ:

http://www.oppositelock.com.au/redesign/department/productList.aspx?deptID=6&catID=47

Opposite Lock looks like an australian 4WD Auto Zone and features two extended range fuel tanks for 60's - one 39.6 gals. (150 Liters) and 50.19 gals. (190 Liters) AND TONS of other goodies not easily available in the americas for a full range of 4x4 vehicles. the site is worth checking out.

some of you aussies must be familiar with these stores. the products looked to be of excellent quality. what kind of prices do they have? Opposite Lock has some kind of export policy and listed this email for contact re that: rmartell@oppositelock.com.au

i did not email him yet since i would like some comment on quality and pricing from some of our brothers (and sisters) from OZ. the online catalog has pics and descriptions only - no pricing.

anyone have one of these extended range fuel tanks installed?

RESPONSE NOTE TO CALI RE POST #91: THANX - I WAS ASKING THE QUESTION ABOVE OF PPL FROM AUSTRALIA AND THOUGHT SOME OF THE USA,CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICAN VIEWERS MIGHT WANT TO SEE SOME OF THE OTHER THINGS ON THAT SITE, LIKE AUSSIE ROOF RACKS, ETC... UNLESS SEATTLE HAS MOVED IN A BIG QUAKE AND I MISSED IT. opposite locke offers the two size tanks as noted in this post and not previously mentioned in post #57.

 

[CaliCruiser]

srplus- refer to the 57th post in this thread

 

[FJ40Jim]

Got the tank!

Got the new fuel tank yesterday.

Price was ~$226 delivered, from LMCtruck.com.

It's painted silver outside, looks like raw steel inside. some vendors indicated that this tank could not be used in a (ford) diesel truck because it is galvanized. I see no evidence of galvanizing, inside or out.

Holding it in position under the truck, it hangs down below the frame rail 4", maybe even a little less. Comparing it to the FJ60 where it will ultimately reside, the tank has about 1" more ground clearance than the 235/75R15 spare tire, it's above the leaf springs and shackles, and it's way above the Draw-Tite (tm) receiver hitch that is just below the rear bumper.

The tank neck is 2.25". Cruiser filler pipe is 2"

The tank breather fitting is 3/4". Cruiser breather fitting on fillpipe is 1/2".

The following parts have been ordered from local CarQuest store:
2.25" 90deg fill hose
2" 90deg fill hose
2" to 2.25" adapter
3/4" fuel vent line, 2'

Already procured:
1/2" to 3/4" barb brass adapter.

If all goes well, the two 90 deg hoses will allow us to make the "S" bend with no pipe bending.

Still waiting on a fuel sender/pickup unit. Trying to steal one off ebay for $25.

 

[euclid]

Good stuff.

 

[calfj60]

That is great news Jim......I am so excited to see this plan come to completion....

 

[sixty]

sounds like its coming together nicely. How much clearance is available for the axle? What sender are you trying to use?

 

[srplus]

take & post some jpgs of the job in progress.

great going.

 

[euclid]

He's takin em, but holden em back for the big day!

take & post some jpgs of the job in progress.

great going.

 

[High Desert]

Just thinking out loud..and onc again getting ahead of the project, but,

would you "Ryno Line" or similiar truck bed liner stuff to the outside or leave it bare metal?

 

[calfj60]

I am leaning towards line x if someone doesn't say not to....the stock tank has some sort of covering on it...

 

[FJ40Jim]

Picked up the fuel filler hoses and adapter and clamps and stuff today.
But now I'm visiting w/ relatives for a day, so can't do anything with this stuff.

A fuel pickup/sender has been purchased off ebay for ~$28. should have it on Weds.

I'll try to post up some pics of the tank and new hose ASAP. Prolly Mon. or Tues.