extended range tank for cheap - mud co-op

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certainly not in a sweat over this

i most certainly want an extended range tank and have committed to kick in toward the research on use of a stock unit. actually, i prefer the idea of a truly well built custom tank that would go between the rails as a straight bolt in which most likely could exceed the 38 or 40 gallon stock chev or ford tanks and be made of corrosive resistant aluminum. Engineering-wise the aluminum would have to be isolated from the steel with a polymer or rubber of some kind. of course we will have to stamp "PINTO EXTENDED RANGE" on all custom tanks. most likely there are holes in the frame that could be used for mounting of a custom tank and skid plate that was correctly designed and could help ease sliding off that rock instead of catching the receiver hitch or ripping off the bumper. I truly want my rig to be modified toward the direction of an expedition vehicle so an extended range fuel tank is going to happen, one way or the other.

my point (if there is one in continuing) is that prolly 65% of all the cruiser heads in 40’s, 45’s 55’s and 60/62’s on this site are driving vehicles that are in some way illegal in some municipality for some reason or the other. For example: SOA's, bumpers that are too high, tires sticking out past fender wells, carrying jerry cans strapped to roof racks with fuel in them or even window tint that is too dark. if you run into the wrong law enforcement individual who is in the 'mood' then nothing is going to help you. around here there was a case of someone driving a really jacked up 4x4 whose bumper on his sky high SOA and body lifted jacked up PU truck chopped off the head of some young mother. the next year we had a law that regulated how many inches a bumper could be above grade, seriously! The legislators argued that all bumpers should be the same height but finally compromised with a set # of inches. these 3/4 ton chev PU's looked really weird with dropped bumpers hanging low front and rear. i think they had to stop enforcing it because ppl could still run under a semi. but it still is on the books.

my vehicle and lots of other people's fj's on this site most probably would not pass smog regs in even the most lenient of states that have them. it used to be (and prolly still is) against the law to drive with snow tires with metal studs in the treads in some states... we don't have that law in florida, LOL. I’ll step off the soapbox.

So my rant is over… most everybody on this site is going to build their rigs as they see fit. The idea of even a non-toyota bolt is repugnant to some here. i respect that opinion while not agreeing with it. if toyota was really on the ball we wouldn't be fighting rust at every turn and in every corner. you can make cars out of old coffee cans and scrapped ship hulls. but when you have to import the zinc to galvanize, well then, planned obsolescence is fine.

Let’s go for it! if jim or whoever can give me the measurements when they have their tanks out - it will save me the trouble of dropping my spare, getting filthy and hitting my head at least a few time to get them myself. I prefer inches but can convert from metric if necessary.
 
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I think the custom tank idea might be reasonable and easy.
Most the tanks a typical marine tank fabricator builds are custom. Most have multiple angles, steps and cutouts to fit hulls of various boats . I have seen complicated tanks built for $700.
So I would think a $400 rectangular fairly square tank should be within reason.
 
I think a custom tank might be something to look in to as well. Maybe as a follow up to this project, after Jim gets some measurements. This project is to install a junk yard tank. Those of you who are interested in doing that, stay tuned cause we are moving forward with the project.

I have lots of responses. Thanks to everyone that has responded about kicking in on this project. Just like those that kick in on the trail to help someone get through an obstacle, you are helping us get this thing going. Very appreciated.
 
southbound: did you go southbound?

Southbound: you said in thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=82114

“I do have a large aftermarket gas tank - I think it's 42 or 46 gallons. If I can get close to 15 mpg that would translate into a huge range. That reminds me, I had to replace my fuel sender and had a very hard time finding one that provided the right resistance that would fit my tank. I found these guys who offer a variable resistance fuel gauge sender cut to size that seems to be doing the trick: www.centroidproducts.com”

how’s ‘bout sharing… what kind of tank, etc and some photos

thanx
 
Here's a pic of what the inner fender looks like. You can see the fuel fill neck and the fuel vapor separator.
This is a test of my (lack of) photo handling skills.

More photos to come.
innerfenders.webp
 
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And here is a photo of the space we have available under the truck. It looks roomier in this photo because the mockup truck has no shocks or tailpipe.

And then a photo of the business side of the tank. The fill neck is 50mm diameter. Close enough that 2" (50.8mm) rubber hose w/ a snug hose clamp will get the job done
underfloors.webp
tanknekside.webp
 
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Jim,

Ia m glad I live in Cali....no rust under my truck like that:) :)



Now the raingutters...thats a different story...
 
reroute exhaust

i was planning to reroute my exhaust anyway. been thinking about getting the 2 piece headers (aussie style ceramic) and actually piping directly out of each to two glass packs and having each tail pipe exit right in front of the rear tire. that way the exhaust doesn't go underwater at the boat ramp.

how would that scenario work out? anyone running dual exhaust on their 60?
 
FJ40Jim said:
And here is a photo of the space we have available under the truck. It looks roomier in this photo because the mockup truck has no shocks or tailpipe.

And then a photo of the business side of the tank. The fill neck is 50mm diameter. Close enough that 2" (50.8mm) rubber hose w/ a snug hose clamp will get the job done

Looks like with some cutting of the Ford filler neck and putting a bead on the end of the pipe, it'll match up fairly well with some flexible hose. Something that may be worth looking into would be the resistance ranges of the FJ60 and 62 senders (assuming they're different parts) and the Ford sender in the tank. If the E and F resistances are the same, it'd just be a simple matter of using the stock Ford sender in the tank. Any ideas yet on how you'll do up the pump?
 
FJ40Jim said:
All FJ60/62 use the same sender unit.

Well that'll simplify things a bit. I'm gonna hunt around and see if I can find out what the full and empty resistance of the Toyota sender is versus the Ford sender. I'll post any results as an extra contribution.

BTW, what Ford truck did you end up getting the tank out of? Hopefully it won't be too hard to find the specs on the Ford sender, but I'm not having much luck getting a definitive number on the Toyota units.
 
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Opposite Locke 50 gallon special from way down under...

Good luck to you all.


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picture.JPG
 
I've been looking at gauges for my 40 and found this from Jack Rice's 40 buildup-

"It was also necessary to replace the fuel level sending unit with Autometer's unit (#3262). The stock Land Cruiser sending unit produces 17 ohms of resistance at full and 120 ohms at empty. We don't believe any domestic aftermarket gauges will work with the Toyota sending unit. The Autometer sending unit has a range from 33 ohms (full) to 240 ohms (empty) -- exactly double that of the TLC sender. The only problem with the Autometer sending unit is that its bolt pattern is not consistent with that of the TLC tank. We solved this problem by
making a hybrid fuel sending unit. We used the Toyota cap (bolting to the tank), but the actual sending unit is Autometer. Essentially, we simply modified the TLC cap and bolted the Autometer unit on it. "

via http://medusa.ih8mud.com/cruiser/Gauges.html

At least for the 40 series, that range appears to be unique. I found some gauges that were close but not close enough. Everyone's adapted the aftermarket senders to the gauges. If this held for the 60s, you'd either try to adapt the Toyota sender to the tank or run an aftermarket gauge and sender.
 
I found this, and the numbers seem closer to those on CCOT's (I think) web site, FWIW...Steve

snip>>
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 12:49:20 -0400
From: Jeff Murray
Subject: Fuel/Temp Gauge Weirdness
To: "'LandCruisers'"

|From the Toyota Manual,=20

Fuel capacity 90 Litres (60 and 70 Series, US and Canada)
When my 70 ran out of fuel it only took 84 Litres to fill.

Sending unit resistance (60 Series), float distance measured from flange =
level

Full (float 34.5 mm) 17+/- 2.1 ohms
1/2 (float 89.5 mm) 40+/- 4.5 ohms
Empty (float 160.5 mm) 120+/- 6.5 ohms

Sending unit resistance (70 Series), float distance measured from flange level

Full (float 76.7 mm) 3 ohms
1/2 (float 189.8 mm) 32.5 ohms
Empty (float 302.4 mm) 110 ohms

Temperate sending unit resistance (60 and 70 Series)

50 deg C, 226 +33.6 -36.6 ohms
115 deg C, 26.4 + 1.7 -2.2 ohms

Both Fuel and Temp gauges (60 and 70 Series) are spec'd as having 55 ohm dc resistance.

As far as I can guess (not having actually had the cluster out) the 12 volts should be fed though a resistor to the contact points of the regulator. The other end of the regulator is then tied to ground. As the point open and close you get a pulsed dc signal at the resistor end of the contacts.

This pulsed dc should show up as a vibrating 3.5 V reading on a dc voltmeter. This reference voltage is then connected to the positive side of both the fuel and temp gauges. The other sides of the gauges are then connected to the sending units. The other end of the sending units are then tied to ground to complete the circuit.

For both the fuel and temp gauges, more fuel or more heat results in lower resistance values in the sending units. This means that more of the 3.5 V reference voltage will be dropped across the 55 ohm gauges than the sensors, thus the gauge rises.

If there is extra resistance in the sensor wiring then readings will be low. If the refernce voltage is low then readings will be low. If the reference voltage is high then the readings will be high.

Now, here's where it get complicated. If the contacts are sticking or not operating at the correct frequency things can get weird. The gages will have some kind of inherant time constant. For example, the 3.5 V pulsed dc is not seen as pulsing on the gauges because they have a slow time constant. If the change in reference voltage (pulses) is too fast or too slow then the gauge will not perform as designed.

I'm going to try the cleaning thing first and then a zener diode if this does not work. It may turn out that a zener of other than 3.6 will be needed because of the time constant thing, but they are cheap so trial and error should find the value.


Jeff
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